Yes we used an external charger out of the box. Cells are tight but they fit.
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FROLIC by Limelight Herb
- Thread starter Dr. G
- Start date
Try inserting the battery upside down and make sure it's close to your eyes, see what happens
All of the above, mate, don't worry, couldn't be certified otherwise.
Nitecore chargers are awesome, although Mooch and vape groups could recommend other good alternatives.
Molicels are fine. Some 21700 are quite a bit taller (and thicker) but you shouldn't have a fitment issue with Molicel cells.
I am making a power bank with a removable 21700 cell which doubles as an external charger of the battery so you can switch the battery with the one in the Frolic.
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Zero_Combustions
Active Member
I’ve found that if you apply some pressure (push down lightly) on the fold out mouthpiece, whilst rotating, stops the AFC from moving at the same time. This solved the issue for me completely.
TigoleBitties
Big and Bouncy
This is awesome. The AFC fix is a good idea although if there was some easy way to apply some permanent color/texture to the existing AFC then you wouldn't have to manufacture new pieces. Oh well.
I haven't played with the CU screen yet but anything that makes maintenance easier is welcome. It sounds like you're saying we could push the existing screen up to the higher position to make taller caps like the S&B fit but I'm guessing the CU screen could just be removed altogether if you're using caps.
I think I'll move my screen up to the higher position so it'll give my AVLP caps more room but I could still use the Frolic inverted with the WPA when not using caps. Is this correct?
Edit: The higher screen position doesn't seem to help the fitment of the AVLP caps. I think they're a bit too wide so their perimeter is making contact with the circular cylinder of the CU that holds the screen. It may probably work for S&B caps if they're narrower.
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Flotsam
Well-Known Member
I always thought Princess Auto in Canada and Harbor Freight in the US were like the same company for tools etc. I probably am wrong but the reason i mention this is Harbor Freight has these paint markers that look like regular permanent markers but dispense paint instead and are mostly used with metalworking. That's what i would want to try in a situation like that.
Just Justin
Well-Known Member
Super glad to see a vape manufacturer as nuts about vapes as us! Refreshing to hear the details, time and thought you’ve put into this device and that you’re already thinking/working on improvements.Ok, so I can't thank you all enough for everything, but mostly the invaluable feedback.
OPERATION GUINEA PIG SUCCESSFUL!
Anyway, since the first batch is pretty much gone now, there is space for some tweaks... I will address some below, and don't get me wrong, I am a picky cunt so I enjoy this myself:
1. PODS - Initially, I designed the cooler with 2 steps for the mesh screen. This allows an additional fine screen to be installed, or the coarse screen moved to a lower or higher position (The idea was that when used upside down with a water piece, the mesh would hold the herb tucked into the oven). In reality, this doesn't change things much as the conductive part of the heating simply liquifies the oils in the herb and is not hot enough to evaporate almost anything (The temperature of the oven is approx. half of that of the air, adding the heat transfer difference variable between air to herb and oven radiant heat to herb, the oven doesn't play a big part in the evaporation process). It's main function is acting as a heat sink and liquifying the oils. This is why the Frolic cooks the herb less when idle in session mode (Albeit there is still some heat transfer from hot air from the heater naturally going up as everything hot does)
Anyway, we can completely eliminate the lower mesh disk position, meaning the S&B capsules most of you already have or are easy for most to obtain would fit perfectly. We could also make near identical ones and call it a day, since this will 100% work well. Please let me know if anyone would have a problem with this, I don't want it to be sketchy for whatever reason. This would be the quickest solution, and probably the best.
2. AFC POSITION - I didn't think people would tinker much with airflow once set or at least this was the initial input I had, yet here we are. Below is a simple solution. you could easily see (And even feel) the AFC position and it won't look bad imo. A small bump ( I would optimize its shape and style it a bit better but something like this:
3. BUTTON - The Frolic has a membrane fire button, as they have the lowest profile. These buttons are reasonably clicky, on the Frolic, depending how fast you press it, the click will be more or less pronounced. The reason behind this is that I wanted to make the button more durable and less prone to damage from hard presses so I added a recess and a silicone O-ring around it inside on the back of the button, which coincidentally makes the button more spongy. The said O-ring below highlighted in blue:
4. SCREEN POSITION - I have added the vibration and the LED which tell pretty much everything you need to know. Tilting the device to check the screen or access the buttons shouldn't be big of a deal for most and is a tradeoff for having a clean looking device, more durable and less intrusive.
About the durability, drop tests say that most impacts will happen on other of the 2 bottom edges, front or back or the button side of the mod if the mod is on the table and knocked over as at this height it has just enough time to rotate to the heavier (battery) side. Why a cat will suffer a greater injury if it falls from less height. From higher up, it has more time to get into position. The screen itself is recessed and (Although it might seem clumsy when someone looks inside the device) it rests on foam instead on a plastic cradle. This was proven to be the most effective mounting method, so unless you drop it directly on something tiny and sharp there should be no issues. If this does, however happen, it's down to 2 screws and clicking a new screen into position, takes 1 minute and costs almost nothing.
This post is already way too long, I will comment on accessories in a separate post.
If you have anything to add to the above, do let me know and thank you again! I don't think I have done a bad job with the device for the first go
Looking forward to mine arriving and putting it to good use. Very excited to see what’s next and anything else y’all have coming!
Will do my best to provide some feedback when I’ve had some time with the Frolic. All the best to Limelight
This is a great idea, good thinking. The pressure increases friction between the ring and the cooler...
I have manufactured parts more than once, I try to avoid it but it's not the priority here.
Yes, it's the PEEK part that's in the way rather than the screen.
Thank you! Nuts, yes... But being honest, this is more about doing my job well to the best of my abilities so I don't let down the people I love and also the people who put their trust in me with their money.
Looking forward to your feedback!
Wow, @Dejan LimelightHerb , can't begin to tell you how impressed I am ...
These show that a smart design can be adapted to new realities easily.
And your explanations about these really show how much thought has gone into this. Where everybody else just bolts the pieces together and calls it a day, you actually went to extra mile to increase the probability of survival for the device.
While I currently consider myself recovered from VAS, this thread keeps me glued to the screen.
These show that a smart design can be adapted to new realities easily.
And your explanations about these really show how much thought has gone into this. Where everybody else just bolts the pieces together and calls it a day, you actually went to extra mile to increase the probability of survival for the device.
While I currently consider myself recovered from VAS, this thread keeps me glued to the screen.
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I'm holding off most commentary and theorizing until my unit arrives, but I just absolutely love the honest and transparent communication from Dejan/Limelight. 100% my vibe, and every time "oh just a small part you can repair yourself" or "here is a detailed picture of that exact component design" gets thrown around I get all warm and fuzzy.
Of course, I have a pile of 304 SS slugs waiting to be made into mouthpieces, but I'm really curious to see how all the OEM accessories work out first.
One thing in this talk of dosing pods and stuff- has anyone tried rimmed basket screens for microdosing or cleanliness? If the basket rim is the same diameter as the bowl/oven, it could be inserted upside down (with the unit being upside down actually), then held in place by the cooling unit.
I have a couple sizes here to try when it arrives (actually a mountain of bits and bobs to apply to the frolic), but wanted to put the idea out there.
Of course, I have a pile of 304 SS slugs waiting to be made into mouthpieces, but I'm really curious to see how all the OEM accessories work out first.
One thing in this talk of dosing pods and stuff- has anyone tried rimmed basket screens for microdosing or cleanliness? If the basket rim is the same diameter as the bowl/oven, it could be inserted upside down (with the unit being upside down actually), then held in place by the cooling unit.
I have a couple sizes here to try when it arrives (actually a mountain of bits and bobs to apply to the frolic), but wanted to put the idea out there.