Tek for: Extraction Artists

what tek do you use and prefer?


  • Total voters
    27

mvapes

Scratchin' Glass!
Accessory Maker
16 hour vac purged Trainwreck x Chemdawg4 x NYC Diesel

IMG_20140621_160932_zpspvghonty.jpg


Sourchem x Blue Dream (12 Hours)

IMG_20140620_223925_zps1lhmu31r.jpg


Super Lemon Haze (20 Hours)

20140620_223308_zpscsnjjq5a.jpg


Another round of Mighty Might HC (49 Hours)

IMG_20140619_184312_zps633mkzpv.jpg


Sourchem through the tamisium extractor then vacced for 4 days!

IMG_20140621_220556_zpsmj2fyk5b.jpg
 

mvapes

Scratchin' Glass!
Accessory Maker
No, it was tamisium extracted over dry ice in a closed loop system. It keeps all chlorophyll and terps in place as there's no where to escape. Hence why the tamisium is considered the cleanest form of extraction.

Color makes no difference unless it's over cooked.
 

hishighness

Well-Known Member
No, it was tamisium extracted over dry ice in a closed loop system. It keeps all chlorophyll and terps in place as there's no where to escape. Hence why the tamisium is considered the cleanest form of extraction.

Color makes no difference unless it's over cooked.
huh? If you agree that there's chlorophyll in there (ie: not THC) then while it may be "cleanest" in the sense that it contains the same chemicals as the natural plant, isn't the point of extraction to create the purest form of THC possible?

Pleas correct me if I'm wrong, I'm sure that's some very nice wax but from what I understand green = plant material = combustion -> ash on the nail = not as 'clean' as something amber colored.
 
hishighness,

Caligula

Maximus
I assumed he meant clean as in less residual solvent. You bring up a good point about the plant matter leaving more unwanted residue though.
 
Caligula,

mvapes

Scratchin' Glass!
Accessory Maker
huh? If you agree that there's chlorophyll in there (ie: not THC) then while it may be "cleanest" in the sense that it contains the same chemicals as the natural plant, isn't the point of extraction to create the purest form of THC possible?

Pleas correct me if I'm wrong, I'm sure that's some very nice wax but from what I understand green = plant material = combustion -> ash on the nail = not as 'clean' as something amber colored.

@Caligula is correct. Clean only matters when talking about the solvent. The whole point to a successful run is to extract the most of the plants natural medicinal value as possible.

On amother note, your comment contradicts itself because you can't extract THC, you can only get thcx and thca which once activated become THC.

Chlorophyll has nothing to do with anything except plants with higher levels of it usually run darker.

So all in all, the color being green, yellow, or brown so from what you understood was in fact incorrect. This isn't good wax, the is 100 hour purged incredible honeycomb.

I hope I explained myself a bit better.
 

hishighness

Well-Known Member
@Caligula is correct. Clean only matters when talking about the solvent. The whole point to a successful run is to extract the most of the plants natural medicinal value as possible.
I disagree that "clean" only refers to solvent. When talking about something you dab anything other than the pure cannabinoids/terps/anything that provides medicinal value I think counts as "residuals". By your definition even mediocre hash is "cleaner" than oil tested at 80% (since it contains no solvent at all!).
On amother note, your comment contradicts itself because you can't extract THC, you can only get thcx and thca which once activated become THC.
Guess I should have been more specific, as I said above "pure" wax would mean anything from the cannabis plant that "gets you high" (including CBD even though you might not feel it), I don't think anything in my post contradicts itself
Chlorophyll has nothing to do with anything except plants with higher levels of it usually run darker.
The chlorophyll doesn't have any medicinal value does it? The way I see it is the same as the salvia they sell in headshops (where it's just potpourri sprayed with the chemicals) - if there's no benefit to having it in there it's just unnecessary carcinogens in your lungs.

So all in all, the color being green, yellow, or brown so from what you understood was in fact incorrect. This isn't good wax, the is 100 hour purged incredible honeycomb.

I hope I explained myself a bit better.
Sorry something's just not quite clicking to me. You say "it's been purged for 100 hours"... well why is that a good thing? The longer you purge the more terps/THC you start to pull off as well. Honestly my problem with this statement is that it's commonly used by people who don't know what they're doing, they just hear "you wanna vac purge it" and then throw it in the chamber for a week without a clue about keeping it at 90*F, turning it over, spreading it thin, etc.

Again, no disrespect intended, I have no doubt that's some fire wax. My only qualm is that you say "chlorophyll doesn't matter" but I think that's just not true. Don't want to turn this thread into a big debate with walls of text but I definitely think this is an important topic to discuss :2c:
 
hishighness,

Jared

Cannabis Enthusiast
My two cents on chlorophyll is that if a large enough amount is present in your wax for it to have a visible green hue
it will not taste as good and will leave residue on your nail. That's from personal experience with BHO and QWISO.
 
Jared,

farscaper

Well-Known Member
in truth.. everyone is right... and wrong

chlorophyll is actually extremely medicinal... is used for all types of healing benifits... it is even reported to cure bad breath...

but it does create an off flavor any time ive ended up with some in my concentrate... buuuuuut....

it is all up to the end user how they want their extract to look. and taste. you can totally use a tammy and not extract chlorophyll.... but becuase you cant see the process it makes it more difficult to prevent its inclusion if material is processed to long....

chlorophyll decomposes uppon boiling so when it hits the nail the first thing chlorophyll does is decompose and leave behind those 55 attached carbons. remember that chlorophyll is a chlorin pigment.... nit a volital terpene.

so the word "clean" is a little to subjective....

solvent free

chlorophyll impurity free

use those instead

edit: this is inteded in no way to address anyone specifically. more just a continuation of a scientifically grounded discussion. just in case my typing seemed in any way harsh I did not intend it as such... you guys are awesome to talk to!
 

mvapes

Scratchin' Glass!
Accessory Maker
The fact that theres chlorophyll in it has nothing to do with anything as far as your high aside from it medical properties. CBD & CBN get you high but you don't feel it? What sense does that make? Unless your smoking Charlotte's Web all day of course.

If for any reason chlorophyll had any effect on the plant than grape ape, gdp, and other darker plants would taste like shit.

And, I don't know if your understanding something, vacuum purging at 90° makes no sense. Below 100 it gets to hard to release air pockets. That's why oil is so expensive. I have to sit there watching my temp because a few drops either way in temp under vacuum makes or breaks the load.

Residue on the nail is when its either too warm, it's tane soup, or there's an actually chunk of plant matter in the material.

It has nothing to do with color. Unless it's full of tane.

And @farscaper - your absolutely right. I did run it in tamisium plus through buchner.
 

farscaper

Well-Known Member
its hard to have a discussion with one who will not leave the high seat and converse on equal ground...

peace.
 
farscaper,

Jared

Cannabis Enthusiast
mvapes said:
If for any reason chlorophyll had any effect on the plant than grape ape, gdp, and other darker plants would taste like shit.

Saying that over and over doesn't make it true. Chlorophyll definitely, 100%, without a doubt, no question, affects the taste. In my opinion negatively. Maybe not for others, but it definitely affects it. And like the guys below said grape ape gdp etc actually have less chlorophyll than others.

Source to back up my claim (other than tons of personal experience extracting.)

Skunk Pharm Research said:
With water, comes water solubles, which includes chlorophyll and plant alkaloids, that detract from the taste, so the dance is to maintain the volatile terpenes, while studiously avoiding the water solubles.

http://skunkpharmresearch.com/bho-extraction/

mvapes said:
Residue on the nail is when its either too warm, it's tane soup, or there's an actually chunk of plant matter in the material.

Not true. Have you ever used alcohol to extract and let it sit a little too long before straining? Your oil will be nearly black there is so much chlorophyll and will taste awful/leave a lot of nasty residue on the nail. No butane involved and it has nothing to do with the heat of the nail.

mvapes said:
It has nothing to do with color. Unless it's full of tane.

:doh:
 
Jared,

farscaper

Well-Known Member
it isnt chlorophyll that makes dark strains dark btw. that has to do with other pigments. chlorophyll only makes things green.

infact for your purps to really turn purp... chlorophyll production has to slow or stop.
 

Patrick Hughes

Stoneman
it isnt chlorophyll that makes dark strains dark btw. that has to do with other pigments. chlorophyll only makes things green.

infact for your purps to really turn purp... chlorophyll production has to slow or stop.

Yeah its just like the trees turning colors here in New England in the fall. The purple is there all the time, but the chlorophyll is present in such amounts to overwhelm it. When the plant gets the message that it's time to stop expressing the chlorophyll, the purple shows through. This definitely happens indoors with some strains, but is a little harder to do indoors since the grower is controlling all the environmental controls to maximize production instead of providing the exact natural conditions the plants would get outside. Many strains will turn purple near harvest if grown outdoors though.
 

farscaper

Well-Known Member
Yeah its just like the trees turning colors here in New England in the fall. The purple is there all the time, but the chlorophyll is present in such amounts to overwhelm it. When the plant gets the message that it's time to stop expressing the chlorophyll, the purple shows through. This definitely happens indoors with some strains, but is a little harder to do indoors since the grower is controlling all the environmental controls to maximize production instead of providing the exact natural conditions the plants would get outside. Many strains will turn purple near harvest if grown outdoors though.
lightcycle, temps day and night and nutrient avaliblity due to quantity and/or ph of media play the parts in it. outdoors varibles are less in your control. indoor all of these can be adjusted to caused desired effects. increasing thc production, decreasing chlorophyll production through decreased night and increased day temps along with ph and nutient changes. but just like human babies... they have a due date but dont always develop on the dr. schedule. some go long and some go short. allowing it to sit longer will actually cause the thc to begin oxidizing on the vine and create a higher cbd cbn ratio. some desire this some dont.... all of it is subjective to the user.
 
farscaper,

Jared

Cannabis Enthusiast
Really the only thing other than QWISO that I've used is tubes and it's worked really well for me. I just break or cut all the bud up into small chunks (I never grind) and pack it pretty much as tightly as I can into the tube, put 4 coffee filters over the end and zip tie it. Blast it into pyrex sitting in near-boiling water then purge it on top of a pot of water on the stove until done. Monitoring with a cooking thermometer to make sure the water never goes over ~140. Definitely not high tech but it's simple, safe, and easy. Next time I buy an oz I'm going to throw it in the freezer for a few hours before and see if the results are any different.
 

farscaper

Well-Known Member
I find freezing bud counterproductive to small scale blasting ie 10g or less for sure.

my reasoning is that it increases the density of the trichome walls and makes it more difficult for the butane to contact the desired material inside.

I prefer to use room temp butane and room temp material. typically 4-8g depending on tube used.

my purpose for such small scale is to aid a curently vacless purge.

the last run I used a much diffrent filter media. it was suggested by a fellow fc'er and I must say thag it really aided in mechanical dewaxing in a direct blasting form.

polypropylene filter felt
http://www.mcmaster.com/#felt-filters/=sj7pn2

I recieved a sample from a user and I have used it for one extraction with promissing results.

I cut a very small circle of it to fit just over the tube opening and then secure with loose mesh ss screen and a ss hose clamp. those are to minimize the amout of needed filter material and prevent blow off of the filter. it also created a very nice amount of back pressure so as to allow staggered fulling without solvent imidiatly leaking fr9m the filter.

if you pre-wet any filter it will decrease the amount of trapped oil. as a helpful hint I have just recently taken to.
 

Jared

Cannabis Enthusiast
I find freezing bud counterproductive to small scale blasting ie 10g or less for sure.

my reasoning is that it increases the density of the trichome walls and makes it more difficult for the butane to contact the desired material inside.

I prefer to use room temp butane and room temp material. typically 4-8g depending on tube used.

my purpose for such small scale is to aid a curently vacless purge.

the last run I used a much diffrent filter media. it was suggested by a fellow fc'er and I must say thag it really aided in mechanical dewaxing in a direct blasting form.

polypropylene filter felt
http://www.mcmaster.com/#felt-filters/=sj7pn2

I recieved a sample from a user and I have used it for one extraction with promissing results.

I cut a very small circle of it to fit just over the tube opening and then secure with loose mesh ss screen and a ss hose clamp. those are to minimize the amout of needed filter material and prevent blow off of the filter. it also created a very nice amount of back pressure so as to allow staggered fulling without solvent imidiatly leaking fr9m the filter.

if you pre-wet any filter it will decrease the amount of trapped oil. as a helpful hint I have just recently taken to.
I actually had one of those filters a long time ago that came with a tube I ordered online. I need to order some more. Does it make a pretty big difference? I'll definitely remember to wet the filter next time I do a run I never knew that helped.
 

farscaper

Well-Known Member
I actually had one of those filters a long time ago that came with a tube I ordered online. I need to order some more. Does it make a pretty big difference? I'll definitely remember to wet the filter next time I do a run I never knew that helped.

I did not pre wet my first trial and it did absobe a decent amount of oil, but it mechanically dewaxed quite a bit more than my typical 2x coffee and ss mesh over screen. plus after soaking in ethenol for 2 days and then squeezed clean and dried it basically looks new color and wear wise. so it seems it held up quite well.

I know the fcer I got mine from was using it with a home made vacuum filter and there is a photo in that thread of the wax residue it held back in that scenario. plus it is more resistant to solvent degridation.

I plan to keep using it for sure. just not sure if it holds back oil after prewetting, I will test that later... as for increasing the quality without having to increase the overall effort it performs quite nicely.
I just save my squeezings for later evaporation.
 
Last edited:
farscaper,
  • Like
Reactions: Jared

mvapes

Scratchin' Glass!
Accessory Maker
Ok, I just learned something new. I know the only way to kill off the chlorophyll is with an ISO wash. Personally, I'm not a big fan of ISO but I'm going to do a run now with ISO. My green co2 run tasye fab!

I myself am learning, personally I'm friends with Knotty and he's been the one teaching me. I'm also about to try a natural solvent by KleenExtract as the recently asked me to rep for them.

I have no issue with being wrong, it's just when being like I don't know what I'm doing gets my panties in a ruffle. I have ZERO residue on nails, and the flavor (too me) is good.

If anyone else who has a closed loop system that runs co2 I'd love to hear you chime in.
 

jdee

Well-Known Member
but the real difference comes from the starting material.

Material destined for extracts are usually harvested after 45 days, rather than 60 or longer for flowers. Maximum terpene content with zero degradation (conversion to CBN due to decarboxylation). That's one of the differences between light colored dispensary supplied oil from legitimate extractors, and the darker oil of the at home DIY people.
 

walrus

Well-Known Member
it does not create enough back pressure for blasting imo.

Been using the 15 micron lately and I find it pressurizes at least as well as my old method of doubled coffee filters covered with a loose mesh ss screen. Very minimal filter loss as well with only the ss screen. They are also great for filtering after winterization.
 
Top Bottom