2clicker
Observer
soil to oil.
i dream of this day
ethanol for the win. tek coming.
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soil to oil.
huh? If you agree that there's chlorophyll in there (ie: not THC) then while it may be "cleanest" in the sense that it contains the same chemicals as the natural plant, isn't the point of extraction to create the purest form of THC possible?No, it was tamisium extracted over dry ice in a closed loop system. It keeps all chlorophyll and terps in place as there's no where to escape. Hence why the tamisium is considered the cleanest form of extraction.
Color makes no difference unless it's over cooked.
huh? If you agree that there's chlorophyll in there (ie: not THC) then while it may be "cleanest" in the sense that it contains the same chemicals as the natural plant, isn't the point of extraction to create the purest form of THC possible?
Pleas correct me if I'm wrong, I'm sure that's some very nice wax but from what I understand green = plant material = combustion -> ash on the nail = not as 'clean' as something amber colored.
I disagree that "clean" only refers to solvent. When talking about something you dab anything other than the pure cannabinoids/terps/anything that provides medicinal value I think counts as "residuals". By your definition even mediocre hash is "cleaner" than oil tested at 80% (since it contains no solvent at all!).@Caligula is correct. Clean only matters when talking about the solvent. The whole point to a successful run is to extract the most of the plants natural medicinal value as possible.
Guess I should have been more specific, as I said above "pure" wax would mean anything from the cannabis plant that "gets you high" (including CBD even though you might not feel it), I don't think anything in my post contradicts itselfOn amother note, your comment contradicts itself because you can't extract THC, you can only get thcx and thca which once activated become THC.
The chlorophyll doesn't have any medicinal value does it? The way I see it is the same as the salvia they sell in headshops (where it's just potpourri sprayed with the chemicals) - if there's no benefit to having it in there it's just unnecessary carcinogens in your lungs.Chlorophyll has nothing to do with anything except plants with higher levels of it usually run darker.
Sorry something's just not quite clicking to me. You say "it's been purged for 100 hours"... well why is that a good thing? The longer you purge the more terps/THC you start to pull off as well. Honestly my problem with this statement is that it's commonly used by people who don't know what they're doing, they just hear "you wanna vac purge it" and then throw it in the chamber for a week without a clue about keeping it at 90*F, turning it over, spreading it thin, etc.So all in all, the color being green, yellow, or brown so from what you understood was in fact incorrect. This isn't good wax, the is 100 hour purged incredible honeycomb.
I hope I explained myself a bit better.
mvapes said:If for any reason chlorophyll had any effect on the plant than grape ape, gdp, and other darker plants would taste like shit.
Skunk Pharm Research said:With water, comes water solubles, which includes chlorophyll and plant alkaloids, that detract from the taste, so the dance is to maintain the volatile terpenes, while studiously avoiding the water solubles.
mvapes said:Residue on the nail is when its either too warm, it's tane soup, or there's an actually chunk of plant matter in the material.
mvapes said:It has nothing to do with color. Unless it's full of tane.
it isnt chlorophyll that makes dark strains dark btw. that has to do with other pigments. chlorophyll only makes things green.
infact for your purps to really turn purp... chlorophyll production has to slow or stop.
lightcycle, temps day and night and nutrient avaliblity due to quantity and/or ph of media play the parts in it. outdoors varibles are less in your control. indoor all of these can be adjusted to caused desired effects. increasing thc production, decreasing chlorophyll production through decreased night and increased day temps along with ph and nutient changes. but just like human babies... they have a due date but dont always develop on the dr. schedule. some go long and some go short. allowing it to sit longer will actually cause the thc to begin oxidizing on the vine and create a higher cbd cbn ratio. some desire this some dont.... all of it is subjective to the user.Yeah its just like the trees turning colors here in New England in the fall. The purple is there all the time, but the chlorophyll is present in such amounts to overwhelm it. When the plant gets the message that it's time to stop expressing the chlorophyll, the purple shows through. This definitely happens indoors with some strains, but is a little harder to do indoors since the grower is controlling all the environmental controls to maximize production instead of providing the exact natural conditions the plants would get outside. Many strains will turn purple near harvest if grown outdoors though.
I actually had one of those filters a long time ago that came with a tube I ordered online. I need to order some more. Does it make a pretty big difference? I'll definitely remember to wet the filter next time I do a run I never knew that helped.I find freezing bud counterproductive to small scale blasting ie 10g or less for sure.
my reasoning is that it increases the density of the trichome walls and makes it more difficult for the butane to contact the desired material inside.
I prefer to use room temp butane and room temp material. typically 4-8g depending on tube used.
my purpose for such small scale is to aid a curently vacless purge.
the last run I used a much diffrent filter media. it was suggested by a fellow fc'er and I must say thag it really aided in mechanical dewaxing in a direct blasting form.
polypropylene filter felt
http://www.mcmaster.com/#felt-filters/=sj7pn2
I recieved a sample from a user and I have used it for one extraction with promissing results.
I cut a very small circle of it to fit just over the tube opening and then secure with loose mesh ss screen and a ss hose clamp. those are to minimize the amout of needed filter material and prevent blow off of the filter. it also created a very nice amount of back pressure so as to allow staggered fulling without solvent imidiatly leaking fr9m the filter.
if you pre-wet any filter it will decrease the amount of trapped oil. as a helpful hint I have just recently taken to.
I actually had one of those filters a long time ago that came with a tube I ordered online. I need to order some more. Does it make a pretty big difference? I'll definitely remember to wet the filter next time I do a run I never knew that helped.
it does not create enough back pressure for blasting imo.ditch paper coffee filters and use SS mesh. get 10-50 micron mesh and your oil will improve.
http://www.316twholesale.com
but the real difference comes from the starting material.
it does not create enough back pressure for blasting imo.