Tek Evaporation Chamber - build thread

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farscaper

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CrazyDiamond said:
Heh, that's the thing, I don't know what would be best. Yes, I am in a high humidity area, but if all the windows stay shut the A/C is on and the humidity goes down because of that. This is why in my diagram notes, I mention maybe an alcohol reclaim on the output. Bottom line, I would love to do this closed window so my nectar and myself, stay cool and dry and the fumes get vented/absorbed/reclaimed, whichever we feel is best.

That HEPA filter looks like a K&N filter for the car, lol. Also, would those odor control ones remove/absorb the fumes?
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well... and this is why I originally asked if this was to evap... or reclaim too... cause they are totally separate processes.

for reclaimation I would suggest a vacuum system with cold relclaimation. you would then vacuum the alcohol out then re condense it in a reclaimation chamber. that you can buy off the shelf.
pretty much its just a second catch pot that sits between the vacuum pump and the vacuum chamber. the catch pot is then kept very cold. I have ideas of upgrading a mini deep freeze for this purpose.
 
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farscaper

Well-Known Member
CrazyDiamond said:
Ah, ok, so you can't just take the vented fumes into a distiller then...
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you would still have to collect the vapor somehow... the vacuum reclamation just keeps it all contained for you and then all the money you spent on the vacuum setup you can save in not buying more solvent. since your using an alcohol you get to avoid the whole closed loop thing with processing... just need closed loop for purge.

an evaporation box I would see better tuned to moving vapor out of the house... or to eliminate the stank but its not really gonna be able to condense the vapor at that temp.
 
CrazyDiamond

CrazyDiamond

HAL is a StarChild
What if the exhaust was exiting through progressively smaller piping...would that condense it enough to be able to pipe the exhaust straight to a still? This kills me...I'm smart as can be with computers and tech shit but this stuff is perplexing...I'm sure I'm over complicating as I normally do, lol.
 
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farscaper

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CrazyDiamond said:
What if the exhaust was exiting through progressively smaller piping...would that condense it enough to be able to pipe the exhaust straight to a still? This kills me...I'm smart as can be with computers and tech shit but this stuff is perplexing...I'm sure I'm over complicating as I normally do, lol.
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no that would just increase pressure on the fan and cause it to heat up and possibly fail. it would also cause any hole to leak vapor since pressure would be building inside it.

the only way you can use positive pressure to evaporate and re condense is in a distillation apperatice.

which mightvactually be cheaper than a centrifugal fan and speed controler plus box and the fixings... the catch and why we dont really do it is the boiling flask... but I figure if you have a scientific hotplate @CrazyDiamond then all you need is glass and stands to hold it up.
:cool:

if you processed and strained your enriched solvent before heating for distillation you wouldnt have any plant matter to worry about. so standard eth extraction and then the solution added to the boiling flask and evaporated off until almost all was gone then use just enough solvent to wash out the boiler flask and finish evap in an atmosphere dish...............

I dont even know what thread im talking in anymore... is this the extraction thread lol
 
CrazyDiamond

CrazyDiamond

HAL is a StarChild
Yes, lol! Damn you definitely got your science hat on today. I'm trying to visualize what you just described and I'm having a hard time (not surprising).
On a side note, my particular hot plate has 5 different external probes to choose from...6" Stainless Steel, 10" Stianless Steel, 6" PTFE, 6" Solid Glass, 9" Solid Glass...they aren't cheap though ranging from $98-$230...might be worth it later (I need to find out if the probe and unit together can maintain the temperature of the solution at constant...didn't come with a manual, sadly).
 
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farscaper

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CrazyDiamond said:
Yes, lol! Damn you definitely got your science hat on today. I'm trying to visualize what you just described and I'm having a hard time (not surprising).
On a side note, my particular hot plate has 5 different external probes to choose from...6" Stainless Steel, 10" Stianless Steel, 6" PTFE, 6" Solid Glass, 9" Solid Glass...they aren't cheap though ranging from $98-$230...might be worth it later (I need to find out if the probe and unit together can maintain the temperature of the solution at constant...didn't come with a manual, sadly).
Click to expand...

it should be able to yes. if you google the model number and manufacture you will likely find a pdf or something.

as for what you need to distill...
http://www.hometrainingtools.com/di.../CE-DIKIT1A/?gclid=CJnFtITMicECFQQQ7AodFzcAtg

CE-DIKIT1A.jpg
 
CrazyDiamond

CrazyDiamond

HAL is a StarChild
Found this about the unit..still searching for owners manual as I type...Does this sound like the probe can work with unit to maintain solution temperature?

"The unit has a platinum RTD temperature sensor in the heater top and a PID heater top control loop designed specifically for setting and controlling the heater plate directly. There is a jack on the rear of the unit for an accessory platinum RTD probe for sensing solution temperatures directly that is tied together with a separate PID control loop designed specifically for controlling solutions."
 
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farscaper

Well-Known Member
CrazyDiamond said:
Found this about the unit..still searching for owners manual as I type...Does this sound like the probe can work with unit to maintain solution temperature?

"The unit has a platinum RTD temperature sensor in the heater top and a PID heater top control loop designed specifically for setting and controlling the heater plate directly. There is a jack on the rear of the unit for an accessory platinum RTD probe for sensing solution temperatures directly that is tied together with a separate PID control loop designed specifically for controlling solutions."
Click to expand...
yes, effectively that says the control sensor (prob) is connected to a pid controlled heater (pid controler... think like an enail)

so you would want an apparatus that has a thermometer or probe port... you would insert your probe into that and then you could measure vapor temp or solution temp depending on where you plug the sensor in.

yes science cap is on today.
 
CrazyDiamond

CrazyDiamond

HAL is a StarChild
hehe @farscaper what I listed is for my hotplate so that means I need to get one of those probes and I'll have hands free temperature control of my solution...that's freakin awesome...I wouldn't have to keep checking and adjusting. Still need to find operating manual.
 
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farscaper

Well-Known Member
CrazyDiamond said:
hehe @farscaper what I listed is for my hotplate so that means I need to get one of those probes and I'll have hands free temperature control of my solution...that's freakin awesome...I wouldn't have to keep checking and adjusting. Still need to find operating manual.
Click to expand...
ok good... i was afraid I phrased it confusingly. yes if you get that censor prob you could judt stick it in your dish of eth.
 
CrazyDiamond

CrazyDiamond

HAL is a StarChild
or iso too I would assume...iso is all I have right now. I would really like to make something out of this...a completely indoor system for iso or EtOH...c'mon brain get it done, lol.

Now which probe to get, the glass would be sweet but of course it's the most expensive (it is borosilicate). I'm thinking since the temps are so low I don't really need to worry about which probe material is better...or do I; would I see much difference in performance of th SS, PTFE, or boro glass?

edit: woohoo, contacted the company and they emailed me the owners manual...should have done that when I first got it, lol...got some reading to do.

edit edit: pretty short manual, 17 pages, and yes, if I get a probe, it's pretty much watch the solution until there's no liquid left :)...now which probe to get, and I'm looking for a used calibration set for it too (I know the plate sensor it pretty much on the money as verified with IR Gun).
 
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F

farscaper

Well-Known Member
CrazyDiamond said:
or iso too I would assume...iso is all I have right now. I would really like to make something out of this...a completely indoor system for iso or EtOH...c'mon brain get it done, lol.

Now which probe to get, the glass would be sweet but of course it's the most expensive (it is borosilicate). I'm thinking since the temps are so low I don't really need to worry about which probe material is better...or do I; would I see much difference in performance of th SS, PTFE, or boro glass?

edit: woohoo, contacted the company and they emailed me the owners manual...should have done that when I first got it, lol...got some reading to do.
Click to expand...
the material would be dependent on what solvents you were distilling and their reactivity with the material.

you should be fine with boro ss or ptfe since all are acceptable with alcohols and butane even!

2clicker said:
this thread is going places
Click to expand...
I dont know where we are going man... but im along for the ride!
 
CrazyDiamond

CrazyDiamond

HAL is a StarChild
Gonna be a fun ride :D:science:
So then I will buy the cheapest probe at $98..hopefully I can find it cheaper/used, and the calibration kit too.
 
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CrazyDiamond

CrazyDiamond

HAL is a StarChild
Oh it's just a kit to calibrate the probe...actually they have two, one for just the probe for $50 and the other is a probe and plate calibration kit for like $350! I read that these things are designed out of the box with accuracy as the most important thing that they stress...so even thought the plate is used, the indications that I've seen is that the plate and sensor are pretty damn close to what the IR Gun says; if I get a new probe, it's already calibrated from the factory. I won't get that right away, but the probe I want ASAP! (the calibration kits would be for peace of mind that everything is functioning well...I'll revisit buying this later down the road). Really, I could probably just use the IR gun, stick the probe into the solution, see what it displays vs IR Gun (I know IR Guns or not perfect, but I figure it can get me in the ballpark).

It's funny, after what we've discussed today, my drawing is almost obsolete!
 
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farscaper

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CrazyDiamond

CrazyDiamond

HAL is a StarChild
Ok...so I read it...I will attempt to dumb down...essentially we are vaporizing plant material, taking that vapor, condensing it, and claiming the resulting oil?
That evaporator you linked here...you would have to add something to it to keep the distiller part chilled right?
And the final question, how the heck would you get the finished material out?
 
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CrazyDiamond,
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farscaper

Well-Known Member
CrazyDiamond said:
And have to add a vacuum to it as well?
Click to expand...
yes the entire apparatus would be vacuum pressurized. thus lowering the thc cbd terpene and all other vaporizable constituents boiling points.

and the fresher the better it seems because then you are preserving all the live resins.

but the whole need for purge is removed because there is no solvent to remove. and the thca would be decarbbed during the process so you could consume your extract however. vape it, rub it, eat it... itll work.
 
CrazyDiamond

CrazyDiamond

HAL is a StarChild
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