Divine Tribe atty's

[OF]

It sounds like once you go QQ you never go back? So should I just go straight to QQ if this thing will work?

No, you should not. Matt says:

"Please Take note: This is an advanced atomizer please see my other discounted ad for the v3 ceramic atomizer it is more user-friendly."
http://ineedhemp.com/product/quartz-quest-510-thread-concentrate-atomizer/

He knows best, for sure. IMO he's right. This was discussed a week or so back, nothing has changed. You really need to understand how this stuff works and get some 'hands on' experience I think. V3 is an excellent unit, but a lot easier to handle for new users since it has very few connections and other potential problems.

As I said before, if you want to learn to ride a motorcycle you start out on a smaller, less powerful, easier to handle bike, right? You don't jump on a 450 pound, 8O HP superbike and crank it up and head into traffic? V3 is effective, low cost and much easier to work.

Be sure the TCR mod you get will eventually power the QQ since it runs 3 to 4 or more times the power.

Your call, but you asked for advice?

OF

 

[2clicker]

are we supposed to be locking the ohms using TCR on the QQ?

i was under the impression that we are supposed to lock the ohms in normal circumstances like this, but i dont recall it ever being said either way.

thanks!

that depends on the device youre running your QQ on. if its joyetech (joyetech, wismec, & eleaf) then yes. if you are using a DNA chip then no. DNA mods do not require the user to lock resistance. the chip does all that for you. Evolv only recommends using the ohm lock function when working with a questionable connection/build.

most here are probably using a joyetech chipped device, but i thought it was worth mentioning for those reading with DNA mods.

 

[Tuck]

Thanks OF. Great advice as always. Looks like the mod I got will do the NI mode mentioned on the v3 atty's. and its rated up to 80w. so I should be good right?

 

[OF]

Thanks OF. Great advice as always. Looks like the mod I got will do the NI mode mentioned on the v3 atty's. and its rated up to 80w. so I should be good right?

Yer welcome, glad to help when I can. Sounds like the mod should do just fine, be sure you feed it a top end 18650. We need honestly rated 20 Amp cells if we're going single cell mods. That means continuous ratings, not the short, random heating e-cig guys use. Best today are probably Sony VTC5 and 5A, LG HE3, or Samsung 25R. Others will work, but not as well, some will give you problems.

Most any top cell will work at 18 Watts, not so when you're three times that.

Good luck with it, please let us know how it's going? V3 is impressive when you get to understand it. Extra effort to get the goods on top of the doughnut where they heat fast and well are rewarded.....big time. TCR gives you the luxury of messing around with technique without getting stuff too hot. You'll like it.

Regards to all.

OF

 

[Danksta]

All this talk about the V3 makes me think I should get back to using it.

 

[OF]

All this talk about the V3 makes me think I should get back to using it.

Trust your inner feelings, Grasshopper......

OF

 

[divinetribe]

I decided to release the offgas test results for the V3

 

[just_the_flu]

...I just got another qq the other week and I got one from the first batches and the newer ones are solid so far! My initial glass top broke and just felt chinsy, so I wasn't surprised it broke so quick... I only got the clear top...



...the glass mouth piece I have now feel so much more quality than the first one I had...


...the qq is by far the only atomizer i think is "worth hitting"... I didn't think you could top the doughnuts..

...I tried a incendio tank and was under impressed... I think I used it twice and gave it to a buddy... Tbh that's what happened with anything I've tried outside the v3 and qq...


EDIT: I also recieved a sticker in my last package which I thought was kick ass... Hate to find out theyve always came with one and i neglected to see it before now

 

[cancertoast]

Question. I have a VooPoo Too 180w. I purchased your G2 dry herb adapter. Your instructions read to set TCR at 300 (I assume you mean via software,) and set the wattage for 33, with a temp of 370. When I do this I get zero heat being created. The adapter is cold to the touch. Even upping the temps/wattage changes nothing. I even reset the TCR value in the software to 1000. Still nothing. When I use NI mode things actually begin to work, but it runs hot, temp reading vs heat it is putting out is way different.

Why does TCR mode not work??? What am I doing wrong?

 

[OF]

Question. I purchased your G2 dry herb adapter. Your instructions read to set TCR at 300 (I assume you mean via software,) and set the wattage for 33, with a temp of 370. When I do this I get zero heat being created.

Why does TCR mode not work??? What am I doing wrong?

Sorry you're having troubles, but if you're trying to contact Matt (DT owner) this is not a good way to do that I think. He only occasionally 'comes by' here. This is probably best taken 'off line' by either PM or direct Email to his business?

FWIW, TCR is working it seems? Ni mode is just TCR with preset m values. The m value is what 'scales' things so actual heat matches the numbers (bigger m values make things hotter for the same selected temperature). You can 'dial in' the needed temperature by changing either m or target temperatures.

You can also 'get going' by VW mode. Once you get it heating properly it's probably easier to go from there?

As a guess you're not configuring the TCR mode right? A default of 0 will block heating.....

OF

 

[cancertoast]

Sorry you're having troubles, but if you're trying to contact Matt (DT owner) this is not a good way to do that I think. He only occasionally 'comes by' here. This is probably best taken 'off line' by either PM or direct Email to his business?

FWIW, TCR is working it seems? Ni mode is just TCR with preset m values. The m value is what 'scales' things so actual heat matches the numbers (bigger m values make things hotter for the same selected temperature). You can 'dial in' the needed temperature by changing either m or target temperatures.

You can also 'get going' by VW mode. Once you get it heating properly it's probably easier to go from there?

As a guess you're not configuring the TCR mode right? A default of 0 will block heating.....

OF

I have tcr mode configured from what I can tell. I open the software, modify the value and push the changes to the device. Regarding m values. Do you have examples of what you are saying? I am only presented with the resistance, the wattage, and the timer (a part from the temperature readout)

 

[OF]

Regarding m values. Do you have examples of what you are saying? I am only presented with the resistance, the wattage, and the timer (a part from the temperature readout)

I'm sorry, I don't follow the question. Examples of m values? My mod(s) maker (Joytech) lists the m value for Ni in there manual as '600-700'. I, and many others, are using this (Ni) setting for the new Quartz Quest as a starting point with 310F as temperature. Given the elements are glowing hot when in use that's probably not an accurate temperature? By experiment it seems the 'real number' in use on Ni in such mods is more like 245. That is you get the same heating pattern using it.

That m value, 245, is really 2450 in technical lists. Which, in turn, is really quite small since it's 2450 PPM (Parts Per Million) (they drop a digit to save display space). That's about 1/4 of a percent. That's the change in percentage per degree C rise of the resistance of the element caused by heating. We're looking for something like 180C rise in real terms? Therefore we predict 44% rise (180 times .245). If you start at say one ohm (to make it easy) it will heat until it measures 1.44 Ohms subject to the power and time limits you put on it.

In my mods there are 3 memory spots, m1, m2, and m3. That shows (say m2) but the value (245) is buried in a table you have to input elsewhere. With the aftermarket 'MyEvic' software upgrade you can get it to display the used m value as well as show the resistance changes in real time and the corresponding drop in current as the voltage on the load goes up (with increased resistance) to keep total power (Volts times Amps) on the value you set. Factory software doesn't show this stuff usually, the average e-cig guy doesn't care?

Again, sounds like you've got the configuration wrong somewhere. The mod works OK if Ni mode responds you can adjust the temperature there and get going? VW is also possible. But until someone who knows that mod comes along to sort you out I think you're hung up there?

OF

OF

 

[Hippie]

M values are memory slots to store different TCR values in memory
I think that mod has TCR M slots and the ability to change the factory preset values for the TCR for SS, Ni, Ti .... so you can set it to your own custom value either way.

The coil resistance will change with temperature (as that's how temp control works) so it needs an initial resistance reading of the coils at room temperature for it to use as a starting reference point to then calculate the approximate temperature of the coils via the change in resistance as they heat and cool. So be sure you are only locking in new resistance values when the coils and the mod are both at room temperature otherwise all your settings and readings will be wrong.

 

[Megaton]

Hi All! Been lurking this forum (here and in the Dynavap thread) and caught lots of great info (and V.A.S).

I was just wondering if there was any info on how safe the ceramic heating elements are in these vaporizers? I have a DC gen2, but i was wondering hoow safe the heating element is actually in the long term, in regards to ceramic particles etc.

 

[cancertoast]

M values are memory slots to store different TCR values in memory
I think that mod has TCR M slots and the ability to change the factory preset values for the TCR for SS, Ni, Ti .... so you can set it to your own custom value either way.

The coil resistance will change with temperature (as that's how temp control works) so it needs an initial resistance reading of the coils at room temperature for it to use as a starting reference point to then calculate the approximate temperature of the coils via the change in resistance as they heat and cool. So be sure you are only locking in new resistance values when the coils and the mod are both at room temperature otherwise all your settings and readings will be wrong.

when you say locking in the ohms value. Is it recommended to do that? So I reattached the adapter and marked it as a new coil. The new default is like .79 ohms. Would I go into the modbox settings and manually set that value in this ohms menu? Thanks for your assistance and patience.

 

[tharealmclovin]

Just ordered my QQ. Time to clean up my V3 for some practice.

 

[graydeh1]

Has divine tribe started shipping the replacement bottom pieces yet?

 

[OF]

Has divine tribe started shipping the replacement bottom pieces yet?

Not yet. Do you hear church bells ringing? Happy children in the streets when school was canceled?

Now you know why you don't.........

The faithful remain confident it's coming soon. In Matt we trust. He will take care of use in due time. Just not today?

OF

 

[huffmybrd]

Has divine tribe started shipping the replacement bottom pieces yet?

not yet, Matt said some time in early-ish march due to Chinese newyears (dont quote me on that though, cuz the QQ has had me in a haze lately since i got a better mod for it lol)

 

[mrbonsai420]

So I have the indendio and I can get good hits off of it with the my big SMOK mod on around 24 watts but I was thinking of picking up the QQ now . I haven't heard much talk on the Ti Cupped sequoia by Humbolt? Has anyone here tried it?

 

[divinetribe]

Has divine tribe started shipping the replacement bottom pieces yet?

UPGRADED PARTS and 2nd batch will be two weeks more than expected, I was hoping the for the beginning to mid-March but now it will be the end of March. Parts were paid for on Monday and production has started. I just found out the longest part of the production is the ceramic heaters, they take 20 days to produce. all the other parts take about 7-10 days.
I am going to raise the price of the second batch a little and to everyone that bought the first batch I am still offering a full refund and you will not have to ship it back if you do not feel like waiting for these upgraded parts. If you purchased or are thinking of purchasing from this first batch still just mention you want to be on the list for upgraded parts in the notes from your order. And i will put you on the list. I will be posting all this info on my website for the quest ads as well.
thanks
matt macosko
see my youtube channel divinetribe for complete details of the upgraded parts.


by the way if you emailed me and were wondering
matt H is one of my employees who helps with emails.

 

[OF]

Gentle Friends,

Another 'over the top' cleaning idea for your consideration: Water. This is for the build up that fouls the floor of the bowl eventually. At first, I disassembled it all and torched the bowl clean (not all that easy to hit the bottom, I had to try a different torch). It does fine but is a first class PITA and an excellent time to foul up reassembly and maybe even break something?

Then I tried Magic Eraser. It works well, takes some time but you don't have to disassemble. I was about to do that again when I got an idea. I put 3 drops of water in it and carefully boiled it for maybe 20 or 30 seconds? Not too aggressive, just keep it simmering/boiling for a bit. Softened up the carbon cake just fine! A gentle scrape with a toothpick and it all came loose and was easily wiped out. A minute and a half, two minutes tops.

I just now repeated it, it still works great, but I upgrade a bit to an 'Orange Wood Stick':
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WLX83Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are replicas of Paul Bunyan's toothpick with a flat on one end. Very handy. Manicurists use them for fancy nails and abuse of cuticles and stuff. You could always ask for a few when you get your next pedi of course, but a whole bag of them is really pretty cheap. Anyway, the flatted end makes very short work of the softened deposits, and there's zero chance the wood will harm the glass.

Now, if you'll excuse me, I have to get busy fouling this one up again. So I can clean it of course.

UPGRADED PARTS and 2nd batch will be two weeks more than expected, I was hoping the for the beginning to mid-March but now it will be the end of March.

Thanks much for the update, Matt. I'm sure I speak for many others we're anxious to get them. But not to rush them. Give 'em all the time they need to do a good job, I plan to get some serious service out of QQ.......

OF

 

[joekar]

Thanks for the update Matt.

 

[PPN]

My Quartz Quest suddenly doesn't want to work anymore on TC (Ni mode) and shut in power mode, previously I was using it in TCR mode but didn't remenber the right settings so I decided to use it in Ni mode with success for a few dabs until I ran in the issue previously mentionned.

Used it in power mode with some rosin I squished yestersay, it works but I prefer temperature control.

Is it a known issue?

 

[OF]

Is it a known issue?

Yes, it's been discussed a fair bit. Most likely a contact issue, a clue is sometimes seen before hand when the resistance is slightly higher than normal. As stuff heats up, a momentarily poor contact causes the 'reading' of resistance to go out of range.

The first herb cart had this same problem IIRC.

Check the two screws, the leads can shift. Also question the center contact with the heatsink. Some guys have backed the screw off a tiny amount (1/3 turn?) to improve this without making the contact inside a problem. I had a case of this early on, I think from removing the QQ from the HS too often. No need to ever 'break this connection' (the new design eliminates this contact entirely). I fixed it, I think, by trying to 'screw the center post in' on the HS. It's not really threaded, but turning it while pressing hard inward seems to have pushed the pin out far enough to make solid contact again. A clue here is the QQ worked fine without the HS since the center pin in the Mod is 'spring loaded' to ensure solid contact.

OF