Divine Tribe atty's

OF

Well-Known Member
What material would you use to improve the user friendliness of the Gen 2?

Basically what Matt did. And ThermoVape did. If there were better options the competent Engineers involved would have explored them I think.

There are some fun options, like putting a high conductivity layer over the insulation with enough mass/surface elsewhere to wick the heat away before it gets to you. A bit like calking your boat enough so the seams leak slowly then pump your bilges to stay afloat. That is limit the flow of heat outward through insulation then collect the leaks and move them elsewhere. Heat shields on big ovens and kilns work this way, the metal housing is part of the heat control but 'sucking up' the leaked heat and spreading it over a large area so the temperature (as different from heat) is lowered.

Handles on pots and pans, soldering irons and so on often use this same principle of limiting conduction away and spreading out what does make it through.

But in the Gen 2 case I think Matt's got it under control. Trust me, I probably wouldn't be too shy if I thought there was a better option.

Regards to all.

OF
 

divinetribe

We are trying our hardest to become Medical Grade
Manufacturer
Basically what Matt did. And ThermoVape did. If there were better options the competent Engineers involved would have explored them I think.

There are some fun options, like putting a high conductivity layer over the insulation with enough mass/surface elsewhere to wick the heat away before it gets to you. A bit like calking your boat enough so the seams leak slowly then pump your bilges to stay afloat. That is limit the flow of heat outward through insulation then collect the leaks and move them elsewhere. Heat shields on big ovens and kilns work this way, the metal housing is part of the heat control but 'sucking up' the leaked heat and spreading it over a large area so the temperature (as different from heat) is lowered.

Handles on pots and pans, soldering irons and so on often use this same principle of limiting conduction away and spreading out what does make it through.

But in the Gen 2 case I think Matt's got it under control. Trust me, I probably wouldn't be too shy if I thought there was a better option.

Regards to all.

OF
i think creating a see-through quartz heating chamber and glass mouthpiece could be an avenue worth exploring in dry herb options, being able to see the herb changing colors and also seeing the vapor as it is being created would be something a lot of people would be interested in. come to think of it all that but with a fan and convection on a 510. I have been exploring options to implement fans and how to power them using a 510.
 
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Vapology

Well-Known Member
Here's a new youtube video showing the QQ in action.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?ebc=ANy...fmweg8wCHpWJzigaFz7i5LarKZqCNdQ&v=wLbmNz-rp3c

Everything looks great and I really want to try this device and I hope it will be great BUT why is he coughing so hard? Is this normal? The inventor himself should be able to use this thing the right way without coughing his ass off!?
You will immediately leave the perfect stealth mode with this portable microbabber when you start coughing so hard. I want it to hit hard but without the cough attack - will this be possible?
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
Here's a new youtube video showing the QQ in action.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?ebc=ANy...fmweg8wCHpWJzigaFz7i5LarKZqCNdQ&v=wLbmNz-rp3c

Everything looks great and I really want to try this device and I hope it will be great BUT why is he coughing so hard? Is this normal? The inventor himself should be able to use this thing the right way without coughing his ass off!?
You will immediately leave the perfect stealth mode with this portable microbabber when you start coughing so hard. I want it to hit hard but without the cough attack - will this be possible?

Terp tickles! As far as sauce goes, I find some floral live resins have so many terpenes the end result can be quite harsh!
Also the vapor path is very short so big globs will come in a little hotter than out of a rig. Considering the stabilized uptemp I'm pretty sure you could dial in a setting on your mod so you wouldn't cough. I find wax pens are the friendliest dabs in that manner as you can really control the hit size.
 

Vapology

Well-Known Member
I can vape shatter with my omnivap + stainless steel pad without coughing. That's also a very short vapor path with hot vapor but it works.
So you say the terp sauce is tickling his throat!? So maybe no coughing when using shatter and rosin!?
I hope so and I will definitely try this. I want this atty to be a success :rockon:
 

elmoe420

Well-Known Member
Great video and the best look we've gotten so far at the heater. Hopefully we'll see a full tear down of this soon.

It would appear to be similar tech to what Longmada has been using in their "Glow" series. A ceramic rod with a wire running through it that slides into a hole in the bottom of the quartz crucible.

The big improvements here seem to be that Matt is using two rather than one ceramic rod. That explains the much faster heat up time than the Longmada Glow and should also mean a more even distribution of heat across the floor of the quartz crucible.

Additionally Matt seems to have made it actually rebuildable (yay!) so if the heater dies you aren't stuck buying a whole new atomizer. Also the Glow was not sub-ohm and incapable of TC (at least the last gen I saw).

Very excited to give this a try! Great work as always @divinetribe.
 

florduh

Well-Known Member
I can vape shatter with my omnivap + stainless steel pad without coughing. That's also a very short vapor path with hot vapor but it works.
So you say the terp sauce is tickling his throat!? So maybe no coughing when using shatter and rosin!?
I hope so and I will definitely try this. I want this atty to be a success :rockon:

I think some people are just "coughers". Matt posted a video of him taking a hit through a water piece. He still coughed. Personally, I almost never cough. But I know people who cough at almost anything.
 

Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
Hey all you FC'ers and Divine Tribers, happy 2018, so much excitement about new DT products coming up this year! :science:

ooooo... me want! :)

VapeDonkey, you must have already played with this...

So @Vape Donkey 650 is the official beta tester from @divinetribe ...!? :brow:

I think Matt is the only "official" beta tester, but he has sent me some early models of the QQ to test a while back. He asked me not to talk or post about it while it was still being developed and tweaked, but now that it's finalized and on the way, it's ok to talk about it :)

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Flash or no flash, your pick

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And a close up of the cup (i've got a little chip, no worries, the cup is a replaceable part)

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View from the top shows you the directional airflow tube that shoots air right into the middle of the cup, and a top view of the 2 posts for the wires at either end of the atomizer base. V3 for comparison, same 22mm diameter.

The beta version I have doesn't have the alumina ceramic heater rods that the final version uses (I have some Ti wires instead) but it is pretty close to the final product besides that. The main advantage of the rods is allowing for a much faster warmup of the quartz cup from underneath than standard metal coil wires, with the larger mass and tighter fit of the ceramic rods. :tup: (can't wait to get my ceramic rods too :D)

I also tried an early version that had dual angled air tubes shooting into the cup instead of just one. This concept held promise, but it was just too difficult to be able to mass-produce this to the tight tolerance and quality needed, in glass. The twin tube MP provided a more even airflow and swirl pattern, but the diameters of the smaller tubes was insufficient and choked off the airflow and clouds. :(

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So what do I like about the QQ?

Great flavor, at least as good as the V3! :brow:

Visually entertaining vape experience, seeing your oil melt into a pool and then swirl with the airflow in the cup as you puff it through the glass cap! Very unique! :clap:

Easiest clean-up with a simple swab, much easier to keep clean than the V3 or similar donut & cup type attys, about as easy to keep clean as your quartz banger!


What I didn't like?


Longer warm-up time, to get ready to puff. :( I wasn't able to get it giving a good cloud for at least 30+ seconds with coil wire heaters, and the vapor starts slow and builds up. Nothing like the near-instant warmup and cloud of direct conduction vaping off a donut. The new ceramic rods should help with that, but it won't be like clicking a button and getting instant vapor milk like my 10mm donuts @ 32w. (and no temp overshoot too, with AF + PI :nod:)

No natural or secure, fitted glass connections to hook it up to your HT / dab rig for the QQ.... yet? :evil: You can use a little piece of silicon tube to insert the glass MP into a HT like Matt showed in his vid, and I did most of my testing in a similar way. Hopefully we can have 14/18mm M/F glass top MPs soon after release....:bowdown:

Difficulty / inability to match the temp on the screen and actual temps of the quartz cup :bang:

I'm a big-time snob / purist for 510-temperature control accuracy and stability, and this method of heating your concentrate indirectly from the mod's temp control adds some challenges. :sherlock:

With a coil wire, or ceramic donut or rod, the TC mod can directly control the max temperature of your heater surface through controlling it's resistance, so if you're putting your concentrate directly on that surface, you can dial in very accurate+stable dabbing temps. When you use those heaters to heat a secondary surface that you put your concentrate on, like a cup, that adds another layer of heat transfer that your TC mod and the #'s on the screen aren't tightly controlling or calculating for. :huh:

For those of you who are familiar with other cup-type atomizers that are indirectly heated from underneath, like the puffco+, top-airflow sai buckets, or source orb bucket/nails, or if you have tried to accurately temp control tune one of those attys, you probably know exactly what I mean.

What this meant in the real world, is that I was able to roughly match temps on the TC mod screen / quartz cup with an IR gun...momentarily.....after heating it up, but as I continued to hold the button down, the temp readings of the cup continued to rise.. :( :bang:

Between 430-460F, I was able to observe windows of temp stability very close to my screen, but it would climb on to 500, 530F+ and beyond, maxing out at 550F for long button presses.

In real world conditions, adding the cooling load of airflow and concentrate will help, and you can also pulse the button (the cup holds it's vaping heat for a while) but it may not be possible to get the near-instant warmups and very accurate temp control that could be achieved with the simple press of a button on a well-tuned donut on AF or myevic. :shrug:Again, I lack the ceramic rods that the final version has, but if the QQ can still control temps pretty well with some adjustability, and short warmups (10 sec?) with the ceramic rods, this looks to be a great little atomizer. Most people aren't temp snobs like me and will love the ease of loading & cleaning of the new QQ over the V3 :clap:


The big improvements here seem to be that Matt is using two rather than one ceramic rod. That explains the much faster heat up time than the Longmada Glow and should also mean a more even distribution of heat across the floor of the quartz crucible.

Additionally Matt seems to have made it actually rebuildable (yay!) so if the heater dies you aren't stuck buying a whole new atomizer. Also the Glow was not sub-ohm and incapable of TC (at least the last gen I saw).

Very excited to give this a try! Great work as always @divinetribe.

Yup, the ceramic rods will be key on this atty. Matt had a new mold made to produce these, so they will be unique to DT / longmada for now. Yes, rebuildable, yes, TC-capable!

I'm quite excited to try the final QQ and upcoming wax RDA too, but I'm also jonesing to get my hands on some of these new alumina ceramic rods as spares, so I can try building some new RBA coils for the x-baby or cubis tanks. These little cylinders seem well suited for that purpose, much better potentially than those mediocre silica ccells, or even better than alumina donuts due to their shape. I can place them low and horizontally next to my wicking slots in a way I can't with donuts.

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This quad 7mm donut coil I made for a smok X-baby tank for distillate oil is proving to be one of my most potent coils I've made so far...even more than some dual 10mm donut coils!

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Could quad rods push it even further? :evil::cool:


Everything looks great and I really want to try this device and I hope it will be great BUT why is he coughing so hard? Is this normal? The inventor himself should be able to use this thing the right way without coughing his ass off!?
You will immediately leave the perfect stealth mode with this portable microbabber when you start coughing so hard. I want it to hit hard but without the cough attack - will this be possible?

Terp tickles! As far as sauce goes, I find some floral live resins have so many terpenes the end result can be quite harsh!
Also the vapor path is very short so big globs will come in a little hotter than out of a rig. Considering the stabilized uptemp I'm pretty sure you could dial in a setting on your mod so you wouldn't cough. I find wax pens are the friendliest dabs in that manner as you can really control the hit size.

The terpy live resin type stuff he appears to be putting in the cup could explain part of it, and also having a sesh directly of the glass MP. On the earlier vid, you see he's taking a nice rip with a hydratube on top of the QQ, but he also holds it in and coughs pretty good. :doh::shrug:I know Matt to be a "cougher" :D he just likes to hold it in and finds a good cough satisfying. I'm asthmatic and try to avoid coughing at all times. But I'm also tempted to push my limits at times and get the biggest cloud I can take if it's cool enough at the point of production and also water cooled. :tup: Achieving that with a single 10mm donut under 400F is no problem for me. Others like it much hotter than me, or like the 13mm donuts, no problem. I think avoiding coughing won't be a big problem with the QQ based on how you use it, but you may not be able to catch the huge e-cig / V3 type clouds on a dry MP without tending to cough maybe? (save that for the rig attachment, or flavor-sip the glass MP dry)
 
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Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
come to think of it all that but with a fan and convection on a 510. I have been exploring options to implement fans and how to power them using a 510.

The 510-fan idea has intrigued me since you told me about that a while back...I've thought about how it can be implemented, but if the atty is intended to operate in TC mode, that could be a problem in getting a fan to spin at a fixed rate? :hmm:

So it wouldn't be hard to power a fan in theory, if you can find one small enough to fit inside an atty, it can be wired in parallel as if it were an extra coil, and it would be powered and spin when the user presses the button and fires the coil, right?

But if you think of how watts and power discharges in TC mode, it fires at a higher max rate the user can set at first, to reach the target temp, but then it scales back the watts to some extent when it reaches temp, and it can bounce and fluctuate, during operation. So if the 510-fan is just wired in as a parallel coil, the voltage that it gets, and it's resulting RPM, would go up and down with the watts just like the heater coil, right? :bang: That might work still, but it would be a halting, inconsistent push from the fan. Unless you power the fan through a second, external battery separate from the 510 connection. Or you can get the fan to spin pretty steady if you run the atty in watts mode, but then you won't have TC. :mad:

Maybe you can intentionally pair it up with a 2-in-1 mod like @Accept 's ehpro fusion mod
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Atop the matching mod. Note the dual displays and controllers. Each 18650 battery is controlled by its own chip. So... vape your favorite nic juice - then add canna! Or... vape your concentrate neat, or add VG for sweetness and clouds. The possibilities are endless. :nod:

One RDA circuit / button for the fan, another for the heater, press em both at once, forced-air 510-dabs!!! :ko::science:

This one will have to be a future project....:D off in the distance some bit...

but since I'm getting us distracted with mods, as we usually do, and because this thread has been known to be the unofficial "new TC mod that I like" thread also, why don't I just talk about a bunch of new mods I've been using with donuts recently? :D :nod:

I saw this mod talked about here in FC and also some e-cig forums, and also saw that HVT is selling them as a kit to use with the sai, so I figured it's temp control can't be that bad?

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I tested it with some of my donut-mod cubis tanks, and it works fine

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But this is more how most of you guys would use it

I have way too many TC box mods, but I've been looking to get a TC tube mod for a while, and this ehpro 101 TC mod does the job. It doesn't have tons of features and options like arcticfox or a DNA chip mod, it has just has TC SS, Ti, and Ni (no user-set TCR) and lets you set the watts in 0.1 and temp in 10F increments with one button. But at lower power ranges than I use with my joyetech mods, I am able to observe stable, non-overshooting temps on a clean donut with the IR gun, and it makes for some pretty clean and tasty vapor during use, not even close to burning, pretty stable and with some adjustability in Ti mode. For a very cheap tube mod, not bad!

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The mod itself is about 4.5" tall, so that actually makes it taller than my other box mods, but still "smaller" in total area and lighter than some of the others with its tube form. You can run it with an 18650 or an 18350 to chop off about 15mm on the total height, but from what I was able to research about 18350 cells, there aren't any that have enough amp output to power most of the coils I want to use it with, especially that 0.28Ω dual donut cubis :( so tall 18650s it is

And here's another one... eleaf invoke 220w :cool:

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I've had some 75w picos in use for a while, but I grow tired of them with their tiny, non-viewable screen, and the TC operation is good, but not as much as some of my other mods. So I convinced one of my friends that he needed a DTV3 and a steel pico that I have an extra/spare, and he agreed, so that gave me a reason to replace it and buy another new mod :D :clap:I consider this one like a "pico 2.0" or a pico done right... with 2 18650s, and the largest joye-eleaf-smec screen yet... 1.3" over the old 0.9" screens :o

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It's barely bigger than the 75w pico, and it has a proper battery door on the bottom which is well made, not that janky threaded cap that blocks 24mm attys :rolleyes:

I've tested it with some cubis and V9 liberty tanks, and it's TC works great with anything I attach to it, but it will be semi-permanently paired with a white V3 donut, until something newer comes out? :brow:

I love the screen, and it doesn't even feel that heavy, much lighter than my big cuboids or primo. The only thing about the invoke I don't like is the button, which is a bit to shallow and not clicky enough, without enough tactile feedback when you press it. At least it's not slippery and prone to misfiring or un-pressing accidentally during use, but that's the sole weak point if I had to pick one, so far, but it's not so bad as to ruin the mod. Got these for pretty cheap too, I'm already thinking of getting a black and a silver one to replace more of my picos :D I can sell those to more random friends :lol:

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And I finally got some evic primo minis also, just like the rest of you guys. My recent smok x-baby tank project convinced me I needed even more mods, so that was the alibi for me to ask china to send me one of these. :\ It is a pretty nice mod too, one of the smallest 18650 mods and it feels light and tiny in the hands, with a great fire button. It's even smaller than my cuboid minis with their non-replaceable cells. :( The screen is great, and it pairs well with a variety of attys up to 25mm. My only problem with the primo mini is possible battery weakness. The battery door functions well in ease of swapping cells and closing nice and snug, but I suspect the relatively limited gold contacts (compared to other mods like vtc mini, or 2-battery mods) is limiting this mod's ability to fully tap the amperage capacity of the cells. :sherlock: With a modest DTV3 with a single 10mm donut, 7 amps, no problemo. But with a hefty x-baby coil with 2 of those donuts on a single cell, the primo mini was struggling, I had to lower my watts, even with a sony VTC4 battery. I wonder if a 75w VTC mini, over-hanging with the 25mm tank, would it give the same "battery low" error that the primo mini does? :hmm:

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florduh

Well-Known Member
Nice write up @Vape Donkey 650 ! I hope the rods will improve heating time cause a +30s heating time seems like a terp waste.

Did you try to heat it up and put your glob in the already hot quartz cup, like for dabbing...?

Matt has said he hits the ceramic rod coils with 70 watts and is ready to start hitting it in about 7-10 seconds. That is reasonable to me. Quicker than torching quartz for sure.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Waxpen/com..._my_home_setup_where_i_use/drq2gda/?context=3
 
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Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
Nice write up @Vape Donkey 650 ! I hope the rods will improve heating time cause a +30s heating time seems like a terp waste.

Thanks PPN! To be fair to the possibility of a faster warmup with the quartz cup, even with the weaker metal coil wires (not the ceramic rods) you can get warmups much faster than 30 seconds like I reported. You can get it to start making a trickle of vapor in 10-15 seconds if you use more "aggressive" settings on your mod.

The problem with faster warmups was that I couldn't stabilize the surface temperature of the quartz cup to the mid-400s. I could only acheive that with a slower ramp-up.

Matt did his early testing on TC-Ti mode, 30-40w, upper 200's F temp setting, IIRC. This made sense because well, the early QQ beta had TI coil wires :D

I had to use TCRs between 140-160 (as opposed to pre-set Ti mode = TCR 300 ~ 400) with 40w, mid-upper 400's F for temp, in order to have the temperature not continue to rapidly rise after good vapor production occured, and also have the temp of the cup roughly match the screen

With the TCR #'s you can see there can be a big disparity between your heater coil and quartz cup surface temps on the QQ atty. :shrug:Setting a higher watts or temp on the mod settings would not result in a quicker warmup, there is just a limitation on how quickly metal coils can heat the cup to vaping temps.

(Using TC-Ti pre-set mode would also result in quartz temps 200-300F hotter than what the screen says :o Not that I think anyone would believe you can make hearty vapor off a quartz cup that is only 250F)

Did you try to heat it up and put your glob in the already hot quartz cup, like for dabbing...?

I did not try that, but I did try back-to-back sessions, and when you load a 2nd session onto a cup that is still warm, a nice stream of vapor can start much quicker :tup:

That could be a good idea to try, maybe can minimize the loss of early terps and get a melt almost like a thin quartz banger when using the ceramic rods :hmm:

Matt has said he hits the ceramic rod coils with 70 watts and is ready to start hitting it in about 7-10 seconds. That is reasonable to me. Quicker than torching quartz for sure.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Waxpen/com..._my_home_setup_where_i_use/drq2gda/?context=3

For sure quicker than whipping out a torch or e-nail... I think when he says 70w, that's just the max watt setting in TC mode, so it's not firing at that 70 watts the whole time (would probably make the rods glow red and crack the quartz cup easily) so I would surmise that the rods are chugging along at 20-50w or so after initial warmup, in the middle of a puff. Expect watt output to crest, peak and valley, fluctuate, even down to 0.1w momentarily, as the heat transfer thermodynamics between the coils / rods and cup confuses the TC mod's operation, which isn't really designed for this type of vaping. :hmm::sherlock:

Maybe this can be a challenge for the PI-control nerds to find some good #'s that can stabilize both the heater's watts AND the cup temps? :evil: :science: (cmon science)

I've never found the "preheat" function either necessary or helpful when using V3 donuts, it would only result in overshoot, but maybe this can be useful with the new QQ? :huh:

I think Matt told me each rod Ω's in around 0.5Ω, (or 1.0Ω ? I forget :spliff:) so a pair of them on the QQ atty will read around 0.2-0.25Ω on your mod. This should be a fairly power hungry atty, fellas, hope you have fresh, high-discharging 18650s! The metal base of the atty gets warm too, so heat sinks are recommended, but not necessary.

(I observed my evic primo's cpu hit 134F after 3 back-to-back sesh's with no heat sink :o Hot, but far from the cut-off still)

But speaking of the new ceramic rods, this should be a good time to introduce the other new DT product that is on the horizon:

jetstream RDA

2DuShcy.jpg

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I was hearing about this RDA occasionally as it's been under development, but I'm just now finding out about the name. :D This is a project with SZ crossing, same company as the V2.5 / V3 donuts and Gen 1 & 2 herb atty. (Not Longmada like the QQ.) And I'm just now seeing the ceramic rods are hollow too. I thought they were filled in solid, for some reason. :shrug:(these probably warm quicker than a solid rod)

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Easy o-ring access to an un-shrouded ceramic build deck. Like the suggestion of switching to o-rings instead of screws on the V3 base, people have been wanting this.

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An inside view of the metal cap with dual direction air tubes

Matt had posted this on reddit a few days ago. I generally try to avoid that domain due to all the n@zi shit floating around there, but Matt tends to post updates and new stuff over there more often, so you gotta keep up?

@Vape Donkey 650 any problems with Directional Airflow Tube snapping off inside cup, taking MP on and off?


I didn't have that problem, but the mouthpiece is made of glass, and it's thick enough to resist minor impacts and abrasions, but it's not super thick glass, you have to be careful handling it.

My "problem" was more with the glass MP fitting really tight on the o-rings and needing some glycerin or coconut oil around the rings to make the MP slide on and off more easily.

The directional air tube fits tight into the cup, so you must take caution to pull the glass MP straight up when removing it, not putting an angular or lateral force which usually helps wiggle tight mouthpieces off from a base. This can cause the tube to touch the side of the cup if you pull it off kinda sideways, and maybe break. Same when putting the MP onto the base, straight on from up top, not wrangling it in from the side, diagonally.

But as accidents tend to happen and stuff breaks, there will be replacement glass MPs available, so don't sweat too hard! It would be nice to have a later option for a metal MP for the QQ, maybe with 2 tubes also?


when this atty is ready is it safe to assume the quarts cups will be sold individually for replacement?

Yup, and the glass MPs and ceramic heater rods will also be available as replacements.

The QQ atty is fairly simple to rebuild and breaks down to 4 or 5 main parts:

  • glass MP with directional tube
  • quartz cup and metal 510 post that mounts it to the base (1 or 2 parts? your pick)
  • dual heater rods, alumina ceramic. you can put some metal coils in there instead if you prefer
  • metal 510 base with the screws for the wire posts, o-rings
 
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2clicker

Observer
Thanks PPN! To be fair to the possibility of a faster warmup with the quartz cup, even with the weaker metal coil wires (not the ceramic rods) you can get warmups much faster than 30 seconds like I reported. You can get it to start making a trickle of vapor in 10-15 seconds if you use more "aggressive" settings on your mod.

The problem with faster warmups was that I couldn't stabilize the surface temperature of the quartz cup to the mid-400s. I could only acheive that with a slower ramp-up.

Matt did his early testing on TC-Ti mode, 30-40w, upper 200's F temp setting, IIRC. This made sense because well, the early QQ beta had TI coil wires :D

I had to use TCRs between 140-160 (as opposed to pre-set Ti mode = TCR 300 ~ 400) with 40w, mid-upper 400's F for temp, in order to have the temperature not continue to rapidly rise after good vapor production occured, and also have the temp of the cup roughly match the screen

With the TCR #'s you can see there can be a big disparity between your heater coil and quartz cup surface temps on the QQ atty. :shrug:Setting a higher watts or temp on the mod settings would not result in a quicker warmup, there is just a limitation on how quickly metal coils can heat the cup to vaping temps.

(Using TC-Ti pre-set mode would also result in quartz temps 200-300F hotter than what the screen says :o Not that I think anyone would believe you can make hearty vapor off a quartz cup that is only 250F)



I did not try that, but I did try back-to-back sessions, and when you load a 2nd session onto a cup that is still warm, a nice stream of vapor can start much quicker :tup:

That could be a good idea to try, maybe can minimize the loss of early terps and get a melt almost like a thin quartz banger when using the ceramic rods :hmm:



For sure quicker than whipping out a torch or e-nail... I think when he says 70w, that's just the max watt setting in TC mode, so it's not firing at that 70 watts the whole time (would probably make the rods glow red and crack the quartz cup easily) so I would surmise that the rods are chugging along at 20-50w or so after initial warmup, in the middle of a puff. Expect watt output to crest, peak and valley, fluctuate, even down to 0.1w momentarily, as the heat transfer thermodynamics between the coils / rods and cup confuses the TC mod's operation, which isn't really designed for this type of vaping. :hmm::sherlock:

Maybe this can be a challenge for the PI-control nerds to find some good #'s that can stabilize both the heater's watts AND the cup temps? :evil: :science: (cmon science)

I've never found the "preheat" function either necessary or helpful when using V3 donuts, it would only result in overshoot, but maybe this can be useful with the new QQ? :huh:

I think Matt told me each rod Ω's in around 0.5Ω, (or 1.0Ω ? I forget :spliff:) so a pair of them on the QQ atty will read around 0.2-0.25Ω on your mod. This should be a fairly power hungry atty, fellas, hope you have fresh, high-discharging 18650s! The metal base of the atty gets warm too, so heat sinks are recommended, but not necessary.

(I observed my evic primo's cpu hit 134F after 3 back-to-back sesh's with no heat sink :o Hot, but far from the cut-off still)

But speaking of the new ceramic rods, this should be a good time to introduce the other new DT product that is on the horizon:

jetstream RDA

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I was hearing about this RDA occasionally as it's been under development, but I'm just now finding out about the name. :D This is a project with SZ crossing, same company as the V2.5 / V3 donuts and Gen 1 & 2 herb atty. (Not Longmada like the QQ.) And I'm just now seeing the ceramic rods are hollow too. I thought they were filled in solid, for some reason. :shrug:(these probably warm quicker than a solid rod)

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Easy o-ring access to an un-shrouded ceramic build deck. Like the suggestion of switching to o-rings instead of screws on the V3 base, people have been wanting this.

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An inside view of the metal cap with dual direction air tubes

Matt had posted this on reddit a few days ago. I generally try to avoid that domain due to all the n@zi shit floating around there, but Matt tends to post updates and new stuff over there more often, so you gotta keep up?




I didn't have that problem, but the mouthpiece is made of glass, and it's thick enough to resist minor impacts and abrasions, but it's not super thick glass, you have to be careful handling it.

My "problem" was more with the glass MP fitting really tight on the o-rings and needing some glycerin or coconut oil around the rings to make the MP slide on and off more easily.

The directional air tube fits tight into the cup, so you must take caution to pull the glass MP straight up when removing it, not putting an angular or lateral force which usually helps wiggle tight mouthpieces off from a base. This can cause the tube to touch the side of the cup if you pull it off kinda sideways, and maybe break. Same when putting the MP onto the base, straight on from up top, not wrangling it in from the side, diagonally.

But as accidents tend to happen and stuff breaks, there will be replacement glass MPs available, so don't sweat too hard! It would be nice to have a later option for a metal MP for the QQ, maybe with 2 tubes also?




Yup, and the glass MPs and ceramic heater rods will also be available as replacements.

The QQ atty is fairly simple to rebuild and breaks down to 4 or 5 main parts:

  • glass MP with directional tube
  • quartz cup and metal 510 post that mounts it to the base (1 or 2 parts? your pick)
  • dual heater rods, alumina ceramic. you can put some metal coils in there instead if you prefer
  • metal 510 base with the screws for the wire posts, o-rings

thanks for all the info! ill probably just be ordering the replacement guts and installing them in whatever RDA i have that will fit them.

about the jetstream... are those rods porous or solid ceramic? wont oil just roll off of solid ceramic rods/tubes? making a mess in the ceramic that covers the deck?

i like that the jetstream has orings vs the screws and really happy to see its SS instead if ceramic body. looks like a proprietary drip tip though. would like to see any ol 810 drip tip fit here. also i REALLY hope DT is planning on offering a delrin or teflon drip tip. metal drip tips, while they look nice, collect skin from your lips like crazy gunking them up. its gross. teflon is ideal. or anything that your lips wont stick to. also please consider an adjustable airflow solution for this one.
 
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