Thanks PPN! To be fair to the possibility of a faster warmup with the quartz cup, even with the weaker metal coil wires (not the ceramic rods)
you can get warmups much faster than 30 seconds like I reported. You can get it to start making a trickle of vapor in 10-15 seconds if you use more "aggressive" settings on your mod.
The problem with faster warmups was that I couldn't stabilize the surface temperature of the quartz cup to the mid-400s. I could only acheive that with a slower ramp-up.
Matt did his early testing on TC-Ti mode, 30-40w, upper 200's F temp setting, IIRC. This made sense because well,
the early QQ beta had TI coil wires
I had to use TCRs between 140-160 (as opposed to pre-set Ti mode = TCR 300 ~ 400) with 40w, mid-upper 400's F for temp, in order to have the temperature not continue to rapidly rise after good vapor production occured, and also have the temp of the cup
roughly match the screen
With the TCR #'s you can see there can be a big disparity between your heater coil and quartz cup surface temps on the QQ atty.
Setting a higher watts or temp on the mod settings would not result in a quicker warmup, there is just a limitation on how quickly metal coils can heat the cup to vaping temps.
(Using TC-Ti pre-set mode would also result in quartz temps 200-300F hotter than what the screen says
Not that I think anyone would believe you can make hearty vapor off a quartz cup that is only 250F)
I did not try that, but I did try back-to-back sessions, and when you load a 2nd session onto a cup that is still warm, a nice stream of vapor can start much quicker
That could be a good idea to try, maybe can minimize the loss of early terps and get a melt almost like a thin quartz banger when using the ceramic rods
For sure quicker than whipping out a torch or e-nail... I think when he says 70w, that's just the max watt setting in TC mode, so it's not firing at that 70 watts the whole time (would probably make the rods glow red and crack the quartz cup easily) so I would surmise that the rods are chugging along at 20-50w or so after initial warmup, in the middle of a puff. Expect watt output to crest, peak and valley, fluctuate, even down to 0.1w momentarily, as the heat transfer thermodynamics between the coils / rods and cup confuses the TC mod's operation, which isn't really designed for this type of vaping.
Maybe this can be a challenge for the PI-control nerds to find some good #'s that can stabilize both the heater's watts AND the cup temps?
(cmon science)
I've never found the "preheat" function either necessary or helpful when using V3 donuts, it would only result in overshoot, but maybe this can be useful with the new QQ?
I think Matt told me each rod Ω's in around 0.5Ω, (or 1.0Ω ? I forget
) so a pair of them on the QQ atty will read around 0.2-0.25Ω on your mod. This should be a fairly power hungry atty, fellas, hope you have fresh, high-discharging 18650s! The metal base of the atty gets warm too, so heat sinks are recommended, but not necessary.
(I observed my evic primo's cpu hit 134F after 3 back-to-back sesh's with no heat sink
Hot, but far from the cut-off still)
But speaking of the new ceramic rods, this should be a good time to introduce the other new DT product that is on the horizon:
jetstream RDA
I was hearing about this RDA occasionally as it's been under development, but I'm just now finding out about the name.
This is a project with SZ crossing, same company as the V2.5 / V3 donuts and Gen 1 & 2 herb atty. (Not Longmada like the QQ.) And I'm just now seeing the ceramic rods are hollow too. I thought they were filled in solid, for some reason.
(these probably warm quicker than a solid rod)
Easy o-ring access to an un-shrouded ceramic build deck. Like the suggestion of switching to o-rings instead of screws on the V3 base, people have been wanting this.
An inside view of the metal cap with dual direction air tubes
Matt had posted this on reddit a few days ago. I generally try to avoid that domain due to all the n@zi shit floating around there, but Matt tends to post updates and new stuff over there more often, so you gotta keep up?
I didn't have that problem, but the mouthpiece is made of glass, and it's thick enough to resist minor impacts and abrasions, but it's not super thick glass, you have to be careful handling it.
My "problem" was more with the glass MP fitting really tight on the o-rings and needing some glycerin or coconut oil around the rings to make the MP slide on and off more easily.
The directional air tube fits tight into the cup, so you must take caution to pull the glass MP
straight up when removing it, not putting an angular or lateral force which usually helps wiggle tight mouthpieces off from a base. This can cause the tube to touch the side of the cup if you pull it off kinda sideways, and maybe break. Same when putting the MP onto the base, straight on from up top, not wrangling it in from the side, diagonally.
But as accidents tend to happen and stuff breaks, there will be replacement glass MPs available, so don't sweat too hard! It would be nice to have a later option for a metal MP for the QQ, maybe with 2 tubes also?
Yup, and the glass MPs and ceramic heater rods will also be available as replacements.
The QQ atty is fairly simple to rebuild and breaks down to 4 or 5 main parts:
- glass MP with directional tube
- quartz cup and metal 510 post that mounts it to the base (1 or 2 parts? your pick)
- dual heater rods, alumina ceramic. you can put some metal coils in there instead if you prefer
- metal 510 base with the screws for the wire posts, o-rings