bizwaxzion
Enigmatic Cannabist
Check the wiki tab on the top of the arcticfox page and click on the nighly builds - looks like support for the primo was added in build 170214.
170214
Eng:
[+] - eVic Primo support
Divine Tribe atty's
- Thread starter divinetribe
- Start date
Check the wiki tab on the top of the arcticfox page and click on the nighly builds - looks like support for the primo was added in build 170214.
170214
Eng:
[+] - eVic Primo support
Howdy ya'll, I got my V3 and an eleaf pico yesterday. I am still trying to get my mod setup properly, and going to check out the guide to dial it in. Seems like a solid device, just need to get some clouds out of it! This won't be replacing my enail, but gonna be using it at concerts and when I need to be discreet.
blankexpression
Well-Known Member
Can anyone tell me what version this is just from looking at it? http://dabadman.co.uk/accessories/ceramic-kiln/kiln
clearlight
Well-Known Member
that's what is referred to in this thread as a v2.5 and 2.7 just means a different mouthpiece but same donut inside.
the resistance could vary somewhat from Matt's official v2.5, which usually ranges from .7-.8 brand new. but otherwise yeah, that is a 2.5 clone.
also: thanks to whoever recommended flipping the Gen 2 DC silicone mouthpiece cover upside down to make it fit the hydratube. that's a nifty trick and my Gen 2 is getting a lot more use now.
the resistance could vary somewhat from Matt's official v2.5, which usually ranges from .7-.8 brand new. but otherwise yeah, that is a 2.5 clone.
also: thanks to whoever recommended flipping the Gen 2 DC silicone mouthpiece cover upside down to make it fit the hydratube. that's a nifty trick and my Gen 2 is getting a lot more use now.
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PPN
Volute of Vapor
The DC Gen2 dry herb atty gave me some very statifying sessions until now:
Yesterday each time I used it it switched automatically from TC to power mode after a few hits (was able to fix that with unscrew and screw back) and today I only took 1 hit before it happens and I wasn't able to fix that until it cooled down, took another hit and have to wait again until it is cold enough...
Finally I opted to power mode (20W)!
How many time a ceramic bowl will last please?
Yesterday each time I used it it switched automatically from TC to power mode after a few hits (was able to fix that with unscrew and screw back) and today I only took 1 hit before it happens and I wasn't able to fix that until it cooled down, took another hit and have to wait again until it is cold enough...
Finally I opted to power mode (20W)!
How many time a ceramic bowl will last please?
VaporScript
Well-Known Member
I had the same experience and at first thought it was a flaw with my new Evic VTC Mini. However, when I dismantled my DC Gen2 one of the lead wires on the heating cup had been cut much shorter than the other and perhaps not making a solid contact in the post? In fact, when I examined the short wire and the post it appeared it was just resting on top of the screw. I immediately contacted Matt, and to his credit, he sent me a new heat cup with no charge and I had to cut the wires to length. This solved the problem for me.
I do not know how long the DC Gen2 will last, but I believe Matt will guarantee them for up to 4 months? I may be wrong. Btw, I keep checking Matt's site as I plan on stocking up on the heat cups whenever they become available.
Hope this helps.
clearlight
Well-Known Member
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Kicking out of TC mode = resistance rise too slow. Usually solved by upping the power BUT in your particular case it's not advised (while our custom RDA's and the Project can handle over 80W with no issue, it seems your small donuts have delicate resistive wires inside...)
The alternative is to pulse the trigger when cold. Do several 1sec pulses until the resistance rises enough.
Second possible problem: the stored resistance is higher than the real one. Happened to me a lot with my crappy Evic VTC mini. Re-reading doesn't work, relocking neither... What happens is that when you fire, the mod will read the actual resistance and it's lower than what it has stored. So you start from lower, it tries to rise but doesn't rise fast enough and the mod thinks there's a problem and kicks back to power mode, same mechanism as above.
Solution: pulse trigger until the live value is above the stored one.
If that doesn't work, try flashing a stock firmware then reflash with myevic or ArticFox. The latter being the way to go now since myevic development stalled.
Ultimate solution: get another mod that works well and has a better chipset.
The alternative is to pulse the trigger when cold. Do several 1sec pulses until the resistance rises enough.
Second possible problem: the stored resistance is higher than the real one. Happened to me a lot with my crappy Evic VTC mini. Re-reading doesn't work, relocking neither... What happens is that when you fire, the mod will read the actual resistance and it's lower than what it has stored. So you start from lower, it tries to rise but doesn't rise fast enough and the mod thinks there's a problem and kicks back to power mode, same mechanism as above.
Solution: pulse trigger until the live value is above the stored one.
If that doesn't work, try flashing a stock firmware then reflash with myevic or ArticFox. The latter being the way to go now since myevic development stalled.
Ultimate solution: get another mod that works well and has a better chipset.
Bad Ocelot
Well-Known Member
After making sure the screws to the leads are tight, remove the atomizer & hit the fire button a couple times & then reattach the atomizer. That seems to clear the stored value so you can get a fresh resistance reading. Happens to me with the wick fed rta's I use for nicotine a fair amount, & occasionally with the DT v3 or gen2
PPN
Volute of Vapor
Bad Ocelot
Well-Known Member
Has anyone been using the DT 2.x or 3's on vaporesso mods with the OMNI board or any of the Hohmtech mods with the FSK chipset? Looks like a lot of capability & customization available there. Never messed with either myself.
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Well, I took one for the team... or three actually! Bought a Vaporesso Attitude 80W, the new Evic Primo Mini and a stainless steel finish Pico... hoping the last two will perform better than my evic VTC mini (and knowing there is no reason why they would, that's just wishful thinking)
The OMNI chipset in the Vaporesso has good reviews and offers two new modes CCW and CCT (custom curve of wattage and temperature respectively)
Meanwhile I read someone claiming Kanger made progresses on the TC front in the JUPPI, so that could be an alternative (although I'm not even sure it has TCR)
I didn't get the Tesla because of that and also no USB (meaning no charging nor updates)
@PPN: the evic VTC mini can be relatively ok with a custom firmware but the original TC algo is just horrible and pulsing too much. It's just that I had a lot of issues with my particular device... and I'm still trying to understand why but it's getting on my nerves, seems almost irrational.
Meanwhile I've been using the Smoant Knight v2 with the Project, no custom firmware, no tons of settings: just entered a TCR value and a temperature that didn't make my coil glow, and it's been flawless since. The TC algo seems to me better than the stock joyetech/wismec/eleaf one. You can really see the power output tapper down in a fluid manner and while drawing it doesn't cut on and off, it only enters protection mode when you're not taking a hit.
But honestly, nothing comes close to the DNA boards at the moment. And mods using them tend to cost a lot, comparable to good conduction vapes in fact (over $200 often) You could buy the bare board and build a custom mod around it but that's quite involved (albeit a fun project)
The bad part, and I've been saying that for quite some time now: in the e-cig world they don't give a fuck about TC! Only a minority of the userbase plays with it and a lot reverted to VW since (because it was crap at first) Most vocal "gurus" on the forums or on youtube also admit not using it, so it's not getting the traction we hoped... And since we are already hijacking the thing for our own devious purposes... Well, we gotta do with what we got and adapt.
I'm still not convinced that it's better than a dedicated sensored solution, but that's my personal opinion.
The OMNI chipset in the Vaporesso has good reviews and offers two new modes CCW and CCT (custom curve of wattage and temperature respectively)
Meanwhile I read someone claiming Kanger made progresses on the TC front in the JUPPI, so that could be an alternative (although I'm not even sure it has TCR)
I didn't get the Tesla because of that and also no USB (meaning no charging nor updates)
@PPN: the evic VTC mini can be relatively ok with a custom firmware but the original TC algo is just horrible and pulsing too much. It's just that I had a lot of issues with my particular device... and I'm still trying to understand why but it's getting on my nerves, seems almost irrational.
Meanwhile I've been using the Smoant Knight v2 with the Project, no custom firmware, no tons of settings: just entered a TCR value and a temperature that didn't make my coil glow, and it's been flawless since. The TC algo seems to me better than the stock joyetech/wismec/eleaf one. You can really see the power output tapper down in a fluid manner and while drawing it doesn't cut on and off, it only enters protection mode when you're not taking a hit.
But honestly, nothing comes close to the DNA boards at the moment. And mods using them tend to cost a lot, comparable to good conduction vapes in fact (over $200 often) You could buy the bare board and build a custom mod around it but that's quite involved (albeit a fun project)
The bad part, and I've been saying that for quite some time now: in the e-cig world they don't give a fuck about TC! Only a minority of the userbase plays with it and a lot reverted to VW since (because it was crap at first) Most vocal "gurus" on the forums or on youtube also admit not using it, so it's not getting the traction we hoped... And since we are already hijacking the thing for our own devious purposes... Well, we gotta do with what we got and adapt.
I'm still not convinced that it's better than a dedicated sensored solution, but that's my personal opinion.
dabselector
Well-Known Member
hi! i got an evic primo 2, and a little disappointed. Maybe someone knows where in the latest arctic fox firmware i can change puff timeout? Also the 25STIMEOUT_MYEVIC_ENC.BIN firmware does not support Primo![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
. This is necessary for good sessions with DC Gen2 atomizer.
. This is necessary for good sessions with DC Gen2 atomizer.
Bad Ocelot
Well-Known Member
heat sink on the Gen2 is a good idea there. What glass piece is that on top that looks a little like an old micro nectar collector?
dabselector
Well-Known Member
is a cheap miniNC clone
OF
Well-Known Member
So I've got a BIL that's turning 60. I decided on a Gen 2 cart and Pico with a couple of cases. Along with a well rehearsed 'you should retire and let some poor Millennial escape his parent's basement' speech delivered over an upcoming lunch.
I decided to test the Pico 'just in case' using my normal Gen 2 (which I haven't been using much lately).
So I took it out to the garden early on this morning to sit in the sun and enjoy the morning while I did a bowl. It was so wonderful, I repeated a few hours later with a fresh bowl. Then again, right after lunch....which ran the battery down so I had to put it back on charge so I could try 'just one more time around four PM. You've got to be sure of these things, you know. I just got back from one more confirmation of how really nice and consistent the Gen 2 can be. This was with loads of '2:1 spiked OG Kush' (2 grams of ground bud mixed with a gram of bubble hash), wonderful how it 'goes and goes and goes' still giving useful hits from the remaining bubble hash long after the herb would normally be exhausted. Just the ticket when supervising the garden.
I hope the BIL appreciates all the testing I'm doing on his behalf.
And to those with access to bubble hash (typically $10 or $15 a gram in the local Dispensary here) you might consider trying spiking your bud. It compensates for the small bowl and IMO extends the enjoyment at key times. The ABV soaks up the mess, so the bowl is easy to keep tidy.
Regards to all,
OF
I decided to test the Pico 'just in case' using my normal Gen 2 (which I haven't been using much lately).
So I took it out to the garden early on this morning to sit in the sun and enjoy the morning while I did a bowl. It was so wonderful, I repeated a few hours later with a fresh bowl. Then again, right after lunch....which ran the battery down so I had to put it back on charge so I could try 'just one more time around four PM. You've got to be sure of these things, you know. I just got back from one more confirmation of how really nice and consistent the Gen 2 can be. This was with loads of '2:1 spiked OG Kush' (2 grams of ground bud mixed with a gram of bubble hash), wonderful how it 'goes and goes and goes' still giving useful hits from the remaining bubble hash long after the herb would normally be exhausted. Just the ticket when supervising the garden.
I hope the BIL appreciates all the testing I'm doing on his behalf.
And to those with access to bubble hash (typically $10 or $15 a gram in the local Dispensary here) you might consider trying spiking your bud. It compensates for the small bowl and IMO extends the enjoyment at key times. The ABV soaks up the mess, so the bowl is easy to keep tidy.
Regards to all,
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
Do I understand this right? I think it's 2 or more capillary tubes crossing a larger glass tube with a solid bottom a few mm over the bottom? Sealed so the inside would hold say water? Except for the air vents on one side of course.
I'm thinking that's kind of a tall order. You can diamond drill the holes through the big tube easy enough, and of course the capillary tubes can easily be cut. But fusing them into the walls at both ends I think will be the undoing of it? They (the capillaries) are sure to heat (and therefore stretch) much faster than the body in normal use. They'll probably fail on cool down if I'm taking the scale right.
Allowing one end to float might save this, but you lose the seal idea? Otherwise I'd expect cracks where the capillary joins the main body. Eventually, if not on the first cool down after fusing.
Anyway, I don't think it's a good job for a classic glass blower. This needs precision machining and probably some fixtures made. More of a 'Glass Shop' project? It might also be a candidate for a precision molded ceramic piece (in slightly modified form to allow 'draft' for release). Perhaps a bit of touch up machining when 'green' before hard firing. Glazing would then completely cover the surface and support the glass film and protect it from thermal shocks since the glass liner would go in at one time.
Then again, I may be 'reading' this all wrong? It wouldn't be the first time for sure. Nor, hopefully, the last.
OF
I'm thinking that's kind of a tall order. You can diamond drill the holes through the big tube easy enough, and of course the capillary tubes can easily be cut. But fusing them into the walls at both ends I think will be the undoing of it? They (the capillaries) are sure to heat (and therefore stretch) much faster than the body in normal use. They'll probably fail on cool down if I'm taking the scale right.
Allowing one end to float might save this, but you lose the seal idea? Otherwise I'd expect cracks where the capillary joins the main body. Eventually, if not on the first cool down after fusing.
Anyway, I don't think it's a good job for a classic glass blower. This needs precision machining and probably some fixtures made. More of a 'Glass Shop' project? It might also be a candidate for a precision molded ceramic piece (in slightly modified form to allow 'draft' for release). Perhaps a bit of touch up machining when 'green' before hard firing. Glazing would then completely cover the surface and support the glass film and protect it from thermal shocks since the glass liner would go in at one time.
Then again, I may be 'reading' this all wrong? It wouldn't be the first time for sure. Nor, hopefully, the last.
OF
double post sorry
OF
Well-Known Member
Gentle Friends,
I've come up with a new 'travel kit' for the DC V2.5:
It uses the 3 inch square cases commonly used for 'ear phones', like these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3YU4RQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They're a dollar or two on EBay as well (of course....)
Inside is my trusty 2.5 and a new Nano to run it with (the Basic also fits well). This one is new, as I did poorly advised test on the original I advise against, there's nothing to gain from leaving it in your pants pocket and running it through the laundry. Perhaps OK on gentle, but not on normal/cotton it seems? The dryer seems the killer in this little play.
The case kept it dry (to my surprise) but banging around inside the dryer seems to have killed it as 'it thinks the little 'mode' button is always pressed'. That is it cycles through the various options. It still works if you catch it in the right mode as it drifts by. So I replaced it and decided against repeating the experiment.
In the net part is a small container with more concentrate (a bit under half a gram IIRC), a couple of toothpicks for loading and a bit of paper towel for any cleanup needed.
This works great, in fact I took to carrying it at all times in my left front pocket to see how easy it was to carry. Too easy it seems, I forgot it was there.......
Regards to all.
OF
I've come up with a new 'travel kit' for the DC V2.5:
It uses the 3 inch square cases commonly used for 'ear phones', like these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3YU4RQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They're a dollar or two on EBay as well (of course....)
Inside is my trusty 2.5 and a new Nano to run it with (the Basic also fits well). This one is new, as I did poorly advised test on the original I advise against, there's nothing to gain from leaving it in your pants pocket and running it through the laundry. Perhaps OK on gentle, but not on normal/cotton it seems? The dryer seems the killer in this little play.
The case kept it dry (to my surprise) but banging around inside the dryer seems to have killed it as 'it thinks the little 'mode' button is always pressed'. That is it cycles through the various options. It still works if you catch it in the right mode as it drifts by. So I replaced it and decided against repeating the experiment.
In the net part is a small container with more concentrate (a bit under half a gram IIRC), a couple of toothpicks for loading and a bit of paper towel for any cleanup needed.
This works great, in fact I took to carrying it at all times in my left front pocket to see how easy it was to carry. Too easy it seems, I forgot it was there.......
Regards to all.
OF
Goto 6:23 in the video ,, This is a example of direct airflow where the concentrate meets the heated surface, you can see how quickly the vapor forms once the carb cap is on and the airflow is pointed toward the bowl. ..
OF
Well-Known Member
I think vapor is forming from the get go, it's just also condensing again as soon as it cools leaving the hot surface, making a shallow 'fog bank' in the bowl. Atmosphere can only hold so much vapor at any given temperature, much like Relative Humidity and water vapor. The same sort of thing happens when you leave a stem in a hot vape, the vapor forms and condenses again locally.
'Sweeping' the area with outside air moves that saturated air/vapor mixture to a cooler place so the vapor changes state from gas to aerosol for us to see and enjoy. So I don't think the fresh air generates the vapor as much as preventing it from condensing again and staying in the bowl?
There's a similar process going on in a common type of high vacuum pump, the ODP (Oil Diffusion Pump):
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diffusion_pump
Here, a heated pot of boiling oil is connected to a 'pretty good' vacuum. Not many air molecules left, you can't pump them mechanically any more. The oil vapor rises 'up the stack' which is water cooled on the outside and causes the vapor to condense and drop back into the pot. All day long. However, in condensing, if a droplet of oil touches a gas molecule it captures it and drags it into the pot where it instantly boils free. This makes a cloud of condensed air molecules just above the oil which is drawn off to the side by a mechanical pump (piston, diaphragm or rotary) and exhausted. Possible because the air is condensed from the main chamber.
However, if you lose that vacuum to the side the gas pushes up on the vapor cloud instead of being pumped off and the vapor rises up the stack and into the chamber. It's called 'backstreaming' and happens at an alarming rate. Instantly everything in your vacuum system is now covered with a layer of the nastiest condensed oil you can imagine. I've watched it boil out of a camera chamber and fill an electron microscope in half a heartbeat. There's a big viewing window to watch through. Takes care of your plans for the next weeks or months. Boiling some parts in Heptane (think boiling gasoline....) is a common practice to get 'cracked' oil contamination out of key places.
"Vacuum accidents' can be heart breakers. Many older microscopes get scrapped against the clean up costs. Typical Service Agreements are 10% of machine value per year and don't cover vacuum accidents caused by people or power failures.
Some older systems used Mercury pumps operating in the same manner, with their own set of contamination problems for even 'higher' (cleaner) vacuums. Modern pumps use whiz bang Silicone oils instead, several hundred dollars a pint for some.
Backstreaming looks just like the video, only bigger. And scarier. I suspect the exact same physics is driving it?
Fun video, thanks for the link.
OF