dewaxed ntane?

r-bot

New Member
I got into dewaxing first with the dual solvent winterization method, I quickly made the switch to a single solvent using only butane. Ethanol is more volatile than the monoterpines that are soluble in butane so when mixing the two solvents you loose some of the lighter terpines. Now I use alcohol dewaxing for edibles only, and use vacuum assisted single solvent dewaxing for my vaping needs.
 

NYC5IKH5jabi

Well-Known Member
does anyone know what color co2 extract should be? ive gotten some neon orange budder and I cant tell if it is really co2 or something else. the budder is really soft, almost like it will run at room temperature. the taste is very light and clean just like a clean bright orange color which is leading me to believe this is due to it being cut with something along with orange coloring or it really is primo bho being labeled as co2? the reason I am skeptical is because I cant find any neon orange wax pictures at all.
 
NYC5IKH5jabi,

kingtut106

Well-Known Member
I was planning on trying this let me know how it sounds...

Pack my tube 24 hours prior to run and place in freezer (along with butane cans)
Surround my tube with ice packs to keep it colder (during blasting)
Blast into mason jar or pyrex dish in liquid nitrogen bath

I'm hoping the waxes will drop out fast with the extremely cold temperatures. I will filter the solution after through a funnel with vac assist and #1 paper followed by standard vac purging at 115 F
 
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Shiggity

Well-Known Member
In what way do you think the thermos method is better? Just easier, or better results?

I have always used the tube method, but would be willing to change if the end result was better.
Adbantages to the thermos method
1. Increasing yield by increasing soak time.
2. There is no blasting event. You just empty the frozen can into the frozen thermos. Very low pressure so little butane if any is released from the thermos until you want to. I feel this is much safer because I am not around the thermos during the extraction. None of the butane off gasses during this soak time so that increases safety as well. I will probably switch to a steel mesh filter to reduce filtration time and waste.
3. Chorophyll is pretty much insouble at this temperature and time period. Other undesirables are also less soluble. (I still winterize to get rid of waxes)
4. No danger of butane making a tunnel and missing some of the goodies, all the nuggets are submerged in liquid butane.
5. If desired two runs can be done, the first for 30 min and the second for 2 hours. Uses more butane but you end up getting more yield.
 

MileHighLife

Blower of glass, grower of grass
Just winterized a run of some trim (all I have excess of atm). It was a pretty small run at 2 ounces but this is what was filtered out and left at the bottom when I was done ...
 

tepictoton

Well-Known Member
Hmm you sure you kept everything frozen during the proces? Looks to me like some of the oil was not in the solution?

I normally only geat greassy white stuff in my filters, but def not on the buttom of the jars...
 
tepictoton,

MileHighLife

Blower of glass, grower of grass
Nice work, how did the end product come out @MileHighLife

It came out good for a trim run. I kept the temps really low and it ended up some decent shatter.

Hmm you sure you kept everything frozen during the proces? Looks to me like some of the oil was not in the solution?

I normally only geat greassy white stuff in my filters, but def not on the buttom of the jars...


Yeah I did. I had it sitting in the freezer for 3 days so all the waxes were able to fall to the bottom and collect there. If I were to let it start to come back up in temp or had I not left it in the freezer for atleast 2 days I would get more what you described as the waxes start to dissolve back into the solution or haven't had a chance to fully solidify and collect. I intentionally left all the crap that I could in the bottom of the jar. That pic is after all the alcohol evaporated out of the mess.
 

kingtut106

Well-Known Member
Ideally if your temps are cold enough the waxes should bead up and stick to the bottom of the glass, minimal filtering required until the end of the solution
 

tepictoton

Well-Known Member
Hmm I always get kind of like a ball of floating like white clouded stuff but never had it stick to the buttom? So my temps are not low enough?
 
tepictoton,

kingtut106

Well-Known Member
It could be strain dependent...but what are your temps at of curiosity?

I'm no expert, but from my experience when I used ethanol to winterize (following bho extraction) I would place it in my freezer and the particles would gather near the bottom, but not aggregate together completely.

I have moved away from using ethanol and now I dewax before purging my butane, imo improved flavor and smoothness. Ethanol is great for winterizing dont get me wrong, but with this method my waxes drop out in 90-120 minutes instead of 48 hours.
 
kingtut106,

tepictoton

Well-Known Member
So how do you winterize before purging? And would this be possible without a vac? Because that is the main reason for me to use alcohol after the tane....
 
tepictoton,

Shiggity

Well-Known Member
If I have it right he blasts into a very cold container to try and lower the solubility of butane and have the waxes drop out then filters that and purges it. Havent heard of this before.
 

deadheadbill

I can see clearly now the smoke is gone...
Adbantages to the thermos method
1. Increasing yield by increasing soak time.
2. There is no blasting event. You just empty the frozen can into the frozen thermos. Very low pressure so little butane if any is released from the thermos until you want to. I feel this is much safer because I am not around the thermos during the extraction. None of the butane off gasses during this soak time so that increases safety as well. I will probably switch to a steel mesh filter to reduce filtration time and waste.
3. Chorophyll is pretty much insouble at this temperature and time period. Other undesirables are also less soluble. (I still winterize to get rid of waxes)
4. No danger of butane making a tunnel and missing some of the goodies, all the nuggets are submerged in liquid butane.
5. If desired two runs can be done, the first for 30 min and the second for 2 hours. Uses more butane but you end up getting more yield.

Going to do my first thermos run this weekend.
 
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Shiggity

Well-Known Member
One more suggestion @deadheadbill I found a mesh tea ball that fits right into the end of my thermos and locks in. I ripped the other half off and now I just use that as my filter. Since I do the winterization and ethanol evap to clear my butane I dont have to worry about a little bit of fine particles coming through in the first dump.

Also, I turn the thermos cap upside down when filling now (open end up) so that it lies flat against the thermos opening. This loses less butane out the sides of the cap. I have heard of others using a jar lid to achieve the same effect. Then I turn the cap right side up again during the soak.

Sorry for derail, new thread created for themos soak extraction:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/bho-thermos-tek.13226/
 
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kingtut106

Well-Known Member
@Shiggity has the idea

The reason I do it this way is because why would I use two solvents when I could just use one. I would only recommend this is you have a vac purger, if you don't then keep on winterizing with ethanol.

If you can get your hands on a vac though you will notice the same smoothness as winterized with increased flavor tones.

PM me if you want to chat/if you live in MA you can borrow my vac (sesh required haha)
 

kingtut106

Well-Known Member
@kingtut106
This single solvent winterizing sounds fucking sweet!
Nice work man!

I think since I'm using one solvent it is technically not winterizing. Butane is a non-polar solvent so my process is dewaxing. Winterizing requires the use of a secondary solvent, typically ethanol, that is polar. During the butane extraction process it will pull other non-polar undesirable waxes, if temperatures are cold enough it will help them aggregate together. Ethanol is better at this because it has an opposite charge of the undesirable waxes so have an easier time aggregating together. Either solvent will work if your temperatures are cold enough.
 
kingtut106,

kingtut106

Well-Known Member
Sg5OZHR.jpg

30 in -> 3.4 out
 

r-bot

New Member
It could be h20 that caused that. It's hard to tell when It could have happened, but my best guess is it could be from condensation when you were chilling the butane.
When I am chilling the solution I keep the beaker on a block of dry ice rather than half buried, it helps to keep the frost from climbing up the sides.
I would also keep my chill times as short as possible.
 
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