Hey, so I had a few thoughts on the forgoing. Sorry to make my very first post a self-important wall of text.
With regard to the ideal decarb temperature curve, I personally am inclined to take the 1990 chart with a grain of salt. It
is from the legit chromatography journal seen at the top of the widely circulated .jpg, but I have to think the "hexane extract heated in an open reactor" part is very relevant to anyone whose decarb scenario is different, e.g. all of us decarbing raw or cured flower. I've heard people make the argument that the THC molecule is the THC molecule, but I'm pretty sure the physical setup of the experiment and the medium the THC was in had an impact on the results.
Second, there's a great thread here with people sharing experiences with Ardent's decarb machines, and specifically,
one poster does a partial teardown of one, measures the heating/time profile with a thermocouple, and has before-and-after lab results that (nearly) match up with the promotional literature's claims of a full conversion. That being the case I think it's a pretty good argument (for those of us who can't currently afford an expensive one-button appliance) that that temperature/time curve is (if not necessarily the theoretical ideal) at least so good as to get near-100% conversion of cured flower.
Specifically, the temperature curve (when the poster isn't using a container inside the appliance) heats up to a max of 118°C, then drops down to 113°C and bobs between those two temperatures for its working period. This is pretty strongly suggestive of it having a thermostat target of 115°C (239°F) that is cycling the heat on and off.
The duration, if one includes the 20 minute warmup but not the unpowered cooldown, is around 1h25m with some variations between tests. This is
notably longer than the very often cited 240°F-for-40-minutes guideline. Possibly the appliance is just taking longer than required, but it's a precise figure with an attractive lab result, which is more than I ever read for 240-for-40. (I gather that there are lab results in the "Another Tincture Thread" resource, but I was never sure how to navigate through that.)
Given this fairly precise curve (and positive test results) this seems to me like the curve I want to try to emulate. Obviously the thermostat on a kitchen oven isn't going to cycle nearly accurately enough, but with an in-oven thermometer positioned next to the weed container (good quality ones are inexpensive) and an "open the door periodically" thermostat I'm guessing I can get fairly close to the mark. I'm awaiting a thermometer order now. A toaster oven would obviously be handier for the same experiment, with its smaller air volume to manage and less temperature variation in the smaller space. I'm inclined to take Ardent's claims that "ovens and toaster ovens do a bad job" with a grain of salt: the language is rather vague and I suspect what they mean is "letting any old crummy oven thermostat regulate the temperature is inadequate." That may be perfectly true, but the casual implication of their lit is that oven/toaster oven decarb is necessarily wasteful to the tune of 15-33% of THC. If a 10 dollar oven thermometer and 70-80 minutes of babysitting the process can approximate 100% conversion, that's kind of a different story.
Third: people were discussing using mason jars for decarb. I know this is common (just as non-weed related cooking and "oven-canning" applications with mason jars are common) but it's worth mentioning that the manufacturers of mason jars specifically tell people that oven use (as opposed to the lower temperature water canning methods) aren't safe and shouldn't be attempted.
Mason jars are thick annealed glass and probably the vast majority of times they'll work in this application, but they're not designed for it and they don't have safety features either in terms of how they shatter, or any special properties in terms of resisting thermal shock, which is the main draw with different kinds of pyrex.
(Different eras and manufacturers of "pyrex" [soda lime glass] and "PYREX" [borosilicate glass] have different tolerances for thermal shock and, as a practical measure, different oven temperature safety guidelines. I believe both are fairly safe around the 115°C/239°F temperatures we mostly talk about here.)
If people are bound and determined to use mason jars I hope they at the very try to avoid rapid heating and cooling scenarios, which is what tends to cause the most dramatic thermal shock shattering.
Lastly: for moderately smell-conscious people, my experience has been that an aluminium-foil covered PYREX pie plate was surprisingly effective at keeping an oven decarb from stinking up the kitchen. There was an aroma around the oven but nothing very powerful or lingering, certainly less than when I just put the weed on a cookiesheet.
I don't think I would go so far as to say "absolutely NO danger" of a canning jar exploding. If for example there is a slight unseen crack or the jar was manufactured with a flaw or imperfection in it than the jar most certainly could shatter. Always be careful when working with a pressure cooker especially with glass. 
