Dani Fusion by Battery-free Ganz

General Disaster

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I really love this idea! It's so repeatable, and repeatability is key to consistency. I also love the ease of "turn dial to number" instead of having to set the time digitally. It feels like a more organic input method.
I confess - it was as much an idea born of ease of implementation without electronic skills and knowledge!
I prefer the elegance of an electronic solution, even with the same analogue dial approach, but less prone to mechanical failure - "Damn! Where did that dab drop?".
But also driven by pragmatism! 🙂
(I'd probably solder my hand to my arse if I tried to be clever!)
 
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General Disaster

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Oh, btw, for those struggling with the F2's 'silent' clicker, I found that looking down the hole in the end while heating with flame, if you angle it so the light (window or whatever) reflects off the inner (blue?) surface of the clicker, as it heats you see it first go from flat to a very slight curve (the reflected light changes) and then when it 'clicks' you see a much more definite sudden change as it snaps into a dome shape, which is what should also cause the sound of the click. My eye sight is exceedingly sharp, but my other senses are dull a.f. so I found this worked very well in finding the click and made the F2 really useable, but can't say how others would find it, maybe try?
 

Hms34

Member
Oh, btw, for those struggling with the F2's 'silent' clicker, I found that looking down the hole in the end while heating with flame, if you angle it so the light (window or whatever) reflects off the inner (blue?) surface of the clicker, as it heats you see it first go from flat to a very slight curve (the reflected light changes) and then when it 'clicks' you see a much more definite sudden change as it snaps into a dome shape, which is what should also cause the sound of the click. My eye sight is exceedingly sharp, but my other senses are dull a.f. so I found this worked very well in finding the click and made the F2 really useable, but can't say how others would find it, maybe try?
Thanks.

I also find that if I let it cool a minute or two with a magnet, reload, and reheat, the results are inconsistent. It's either not enough heating or too much heating when it clicks for the 2nd bowl.

As for airflow, even with tip removed, I can't see much difference when I turn it to adjust. So, my system is to do a clockwise 45 degree turn if the draw is too restrictive, repeat as necessary.

When this Fusion 2.0 is right, it's really right. That's the frustrating thing. It's a long way from load-heat-inhale-exhale-relax. Pretty expensive for what's essentially a one-hitter.
 

General Disaster

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Thanks.

I also find that if I let it cool a minute or two with a magnet, reload, and reheat, the results are inconsistent. It's either not enough heating or too much heating when it clicks for the 2nd bowl.

As for airflow, even with tip removed, I can't see much difference when I turn it to adjust. So, my system is to do a clockwise 45 degree turn if the draw is too restrictive, repeat as necessary.

When this Fusion 2.0 is right, it's really right. That's the frustrating thing. It's a long way from load-heat-inhale-exhale-relax. Pretty expensive for what's essentially a one-hitter.
I do have to agree on that airflow issue. one thing I noticed was it got significantly worse in full bowl mode.
My guess is the screen is sitting flush on the bottom of the bowl, and blocking some of the airpath into the stem. This reduces the effect of opening up the airway adjustment, since it's attenuated elsewhere.

I improved matters a bit by very gently pushing the screen back up (from below with a metal probe) by only about 0.2 mm (approximately of course!), just enough to move those parts of the screen that were blocking some of the flow. If there were small grooves cut in a radial fashion on the base of the bowl inside, that could stop this happening so much, though I don't know how easy/cheap that would be for BFG to do.

But I still found it much better than a dynavap for airflow.
 

Hms34

Member
Do we know if 2.0 screens are the same specifications as for any other devices? I want to order some, but the Wesley site has been hanging up before I can enter my payment info.
 

General Disaster

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Do we know if 2.0 screens are the same specifications as for any other devices? I want to order some, but the Wesley site has been hanging up before I can enter my payment info.
See if they have an email contact address, and explain what the problem is, they may not be aware, and/or they may have an alternative to suggest? (way of payment, alternative vender, w.h.y.)
 
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TedJones

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Do we know if 2.0 screens are the same specifications as for any other devices? I want to order some, but the Wesley site has been hanging up before I can enter my payment info.
Looks like they’re selling the same CCD screens for either the v1 or v2. I’m assuming the bowl diameters are the same then. I use 3/8 in mesh. Just a tad too big to sit flat, so I slightly bend and insert “dome” upside down to give a little air cushion at the bottom like General mentions above. Poker to settle it in and to scrape around the edges after emptying. Abv gets built up down & around there!
 

Hms34

Member
Thanks everyone. Wesley said his site will be back up shortly, and with some new products. I will order the screens and see what's new.

If there's a tip with easier airflow adjustment and a fixed bowl size somewhere in the middle, I'd probably be a buyer.

Also, I assume that little corkscrew piece is for airflow? I can't decide if it's better with or without it.

I think the 2.0 cap is best if I heat to 4-5 seconds after the click. With my kitchen torch single flame, it clicks in 21-22 seconds. Maybe too much flame, not sure. The 2nd bowl is never as good as the first.
 

TedJones

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If it helps, just measured my Fusion2 bowl width, and it's as close to 10mm as I can tell with bare eyes (so within 0.3mm or so?).

That's just with a normal ruler, not proper measurement!
Nice! Mine shows closer to 11mm but thought I saw the walls were just a bit slimmer on the new one 👍
Also, I assume that little corkscrew piece is for airflow? I can't decide if it's better with or without it.
Intercooler primary purpose is for cooling, but more important for me is that it keeps little particles from getting to the back of my throat ;)
 

General Disaster

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Nice! Mine shows closer to 11mm but thought I saw the walls were just a bit slimmer on the new one 👍

Intercooler primary purpose is for cooling, but more important for me is that it keeps little particles from getting to the back of my throat ;)
On mine the walls are pretty thin, too much to allow for inner and outer diameter (with a hand held ruler).
 
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Andreaerdna

If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
does someone know where to find spares for the 2 small orings keeping the chamber in place?
not the 4 keeping the tip attached to the stem, the two little ones allowing the chamber to stay in place while rotating.

trying to pull out the chamber for cleaning (on a hot tip) it got stuck half way and finally both cut in half, so now its a free spinner when hot
 
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General Disaster

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Presume you're US?

Try here for some distributors, and I think you can buy on the site itself too.
 
General Disaster,

Andreaerdna

If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
What i found is the orings pack with only 2 sizes, both too big (6 and 7,5mm)
 
Andreaerdna,

General Disaster

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What i found is the orings pack with only 2 sizes, both too big (6 and 7,5mm)
I'm UK so I wouldn't know where to go US wise, but maybe try some of BFG's affiliates in the list (if suitable to order from) and see what they have? Not sure what else to suggest, but likely someone else here will know better than I.
 
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TedJones

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What i found is the orings pack with only 2 sizes, both too big (6 and 7,5mm)
That’s what you need. It comes with the two sizes and looks like all green now. My larger ones, for the 9mm stem are black. Just measured my smaller green spares for the bowl and they are the 6mm OD x 1mm thickness ;)
 

Andreaerdna

If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
That’s what you need. It comes with the two sizes and looks like all green now. My larger ones, for the 9mm stem are black. Just measured my smaller green spares for the bowl and they are the 6mm OD x 1mm thickness ;)
That was what i needed indeed, thanks again. i bought a wooden stem too at the same time and I am gladly surprised how it cools down vapor compared to metal one
it is ~35% longer than the metal one
the cooling spiral also is longer, it is kept in place firmly by friction. wooden stem is my favorite way for use natively.
with a bubbler the metallic one is more practical IMO
 

TedJones

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That was what i needed indeed, thanks again. i bought a wooden stem too at the same time and I am gladly surprised how it cools down vapor compared to metal one
it is ~35% longer than the metal one
the cooling spiral also is longer, it is kept in place firmly by friction. wooden stem is my favorite way for use natively.
with a bubbler the metallic one is more practical IMO
Sweet! Sounds like the long woody stem. Yea, big spiral. Got that with my V3Ti awhile ago. My preference is the shorter w/fusion though & now use the long as a wpa for another vape :p
 

bellona0544

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Ya now, I never mentioned in here that I love my Fusion 1.0! I almost exclusively heat it on the high ring and I tend to use it primarily with completely restricted airflow on the tip as it has become my go-to "joint" vape for friends (and myself). I have also run hundreds of bowls through with mixed heating/heating on the lower ring and with unrestricted airflow, but I find myself reaching for the Stunner when I want that big, free-flowing cloud for bong rips as it feels more convective).

For people who have had both the 1.0 and 2.0, do you think it would be worth looking into a 2.0 potentially? I have a ton of stoner friends and give out Dynavap Ms like candy but there are a few who like the more joint-like experience of my 1.0 much more than Vapcaps, so I could justify giving one of them my 1.0 and getting a new one if y'all think it is really worth it.
 

b8man99

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Ya now, I never mentioned in here that I love my Fusion 1.0! I almost exclusively heat it on the high ring and I tend to use it primarily with completely restricted airflow on the tip as it has become my go-to "joint" vape for friends (and myself). I have also run hundreds of bowls through with mixed heating/heating on the lower ring and with unrestricted airflow, but I find myself reaching for the Stunner when I want that big, free-flowing cloud for bong rips as it feels more convective).

For people who have had both the 1.0 and 2.0, do you think it would be worth looking into a 2.0 potentially? I have a ton of stoner friends and give out Dynavap Ms like candy but there are a few who like the more joint-like experience of my 1.0 much more than Vapcaps, so I could justify giving one of them my 1.0 and getting a new one if y'all think it is really worth it.

Curious about this myself. Personally I’m waiting for the v1.0 to be on sale and grabbing another. Im heating to just after the click with great results - I’m worried v2 is going to be charring the weed. It is an amazing vape though and beats everything else I own - including the tempest.
 

Mickk

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Which IH is everyone using with their Fusion 2's? Which portable ones are the best?
 
Mickk,

kokolokokolokon

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Which IH is everyone using with their Fusion 2's? Which portable ones are the best?
Right now there is no good portable ih for the fusion.
With the wand you would need 2 cycles/~2min for just normal results and having a super slow heat up…the heat go through the stem, making it very hot

But they will release an ih called The Flare
 

bellona0544

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I have used my Wand historically and essentially let it run at max "temp" til it runs out. I get much lighter hits then which is more my speed anyway. Lately, I have been pretty exclusively using a Big Buddy Blazer torch and that has been better.
 
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