Custom Glass Ideas/Designs Thread

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Ok, let's try this as the "base" design and go from here. I made the water chamber taller, horizontal slits in the bottom joint, attached mouthpiece. My questions now: angle of mouthpiece? Is 16cm a good distance from the can or should it be longer or taller? Is the mouthpiece to big, it's 3cm, should it be 2cm?
vrPB95D.jpg

Hmmm, you know I wouldn't mind a taller can and short mouthpiece maybe? Just like take a cm or two off there and add it to the can. I feel like there should be more can space that's not perc and not mouthpiece... (Maybe the perc itself could just be a bit shorter? Tall is good for no leaks though) As far as MP length, no idea, maybe 12cm is enough though?

Again your doing an amazing job here my man, living up to your name sake! ;)
 

Bongologist

JoJo Woodworks
Accessory Maker
Thanks, it's really fun, makes it easy to work on.

The modular piece (working title FC-HTMOD) is going to be modified with a few suggestions:
-Smaller/shorter matrix and ufo percs (like the 187 size)
-taller upper can
-two horizontal slots on the bottom joint
-horizontal slots on tree perc and increase to six trees
-add 1cm post to top 18.8mm M joint to insure nothing bottoms out without sealing properly
-insure bottom female 18.8mm joint is flush in the drawing (for Evo owners)

On the 'base' model (FC-HT)
Suggested changes:
-taller top can
-shorten height and length of mp
-shrink the perc just a bit

Thanks for the great suggestions (some in pm) and keep them coming. Even if your drawings aren't great (mine aren't) post em! Give us your ideas!
 

HellsWindStaff

Dharma Initiate
It could be like Grav Stax series!!!

Was reading this thread backwards and saw that is kind of the direction it seems to be taking, at first I won't lie I was thinking a dedicated hydratube would be better but looking at these sketches has convinced me :) It would functionally be exactly the same, more compact, etc.

I dig that reclyler too! I really want a Recycler tube, I hope VXH releases one as I wouldn't mind shelling out the $ for something like that, but if that day never comes around that looks gnarly!
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Was reading this thread backwards and saw that is kind of the direction it seems to be taking, at first I won't lie I was thinking a dedicated hydratube would be better but looking at these sketches has convinced me :) It would functionally be exactly the same, more compact, etc.

I dig that reclyler too! I really want a Recycler tube, I hope VXH releases one as I wouldn't mind shelling out the $ for something like that, but if that day never comes around that looks gnarly!

Yeah dude! Welcome!

Plan is first the recycler, then regular tube, tube with other percs, then stackable mod style
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Third drawing of the basic HT. Taller/more volume in the main can, shortened the height and length of mp, horizontal slots in bottom drip catcher, noted importance of 18mm joint being flush (for Evo users).
Any other changes anyone?
ysOnBxZ.jpg
I like your concept however I think the top should have a 18mm female.
Cheaper for shipping and the consumer can use his own mouth piece.

You don't draw on a computer like with a CAD program?
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Third drawing of the basic HT. Taller/more volume in the main can, shortened the height and length of mp, horizontal slots in bottom drip catcher, noted importance of 18mm joint being flush (for Evo users).
Any other changes anyone?
ysOnBxZ.jpg


Awesome man, only thing I would say is make the perc top just a bit shorter, no reason for it to be quite so tall, but close.

@ataxian that was discussed for the other tubes, but we settled on male tops for stacking, keeping it consistent (personally I'd find female to female wierd, and have more big 18mm female mouthpieces than I do male ones)
 
Shit Snacks,

Bongologist

JoJo Woodworks
Accessory Maker
I really see the point of female and male, but I can still see @ataxian side too. Maybe we try to get Steven to do F to F and let cleanclearglass and SsS do the F to M. The modular idea will come soon but I think the hydrotubes with attached mp will sell more for them overall so I want to get a firm design submitted (even if I personally like the modular better).

I do use Sketchup but I opened my laptop for the first time in months, or more, and it needed updates and Windows 10, and too much thought...so pencil and paper.

@Shit Snacks agreed, I'll lower that.
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
I really see the point of female and male, but I can still see @ataxian side too. Maybe we try to get Steven to do F to F and let cleanclearglass and SsS do the F to M. The modular idea will come soon but I think the hydrotubes with attached mp will sell more for them overall so I want to get a firm design submitted (even if I personally like the modular better).

I do use Sketchup but I opened my laptop for the first time in months, or more, and it needed updates and Windows 10, and too much thought...so pencil and paper.

@Shit Snacks agreed, I'll lower that.
I use to draw with pencil, t-square, electric eraser and other stuff.
Autocad, Solid Works, Rhino 3D, Geomagic, T-Spline and a few others work pretty well.

@Shit Snacks Female or Male!
I have 18mm Male mouth pieces & Female mouth pieces.

If I bug you guy's sorry!

Back to my garden.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I use to draw with pencil, t-square, electric eraser and other stuff.
Autocad, Solid Works, Rhino 3D, Geomagic, T-Spline and a few others work pretty well.

@Shit Snacks Female or Male!
I have 18mm Male mouth pieces & Female mouth pieces.

If I bug you guy's sorry!

Back to my garden.

We welcome your point of view atax!

Some day hopefully all these get made!

All opinions are valid!

Holy grail and all that! ;)
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
We welcome your point of view atax!
Some day hopefully all these get made!
All opinions are valid!
Holy grail and all that! ;)
I was afraid maybe my opinion's are out dated?

Living on the NORTH SHORE in the mid to late 70's.
CANNABIS was free and ZIG ZAGS is all we had.
We grew large trees without seeds.
Only females were allowed to live.

John Cleese in the Phyton was searching for the HOLY GRAIL?
The GRAIL is what you make it!
Holy is what you believe?
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Ok, v.3 with a shorter perc. I'll leave it for a week and if no new suggestions are made we can submit it to the sellers.
watHyEy.jpg


And here is the link if you want it.
http://i.imgur.com/watHyEy.jpg

Perfect dude!

...I say just submit it now :D

Edit: you can also write sunken, in case that helps them more than recessed, and smooth along with flush? Level? Even? Flat?

Can start mocking up other percs now if you want more to do buddy ;)
 
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Shit Snacks,
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Bongologist

JoJo Woodworks
Accessory Maker
I think I might draw a 3D view of the bottom to include so it's clear. I've had three Evo users ask about that.

"The 18.8mm female joint is level, flat, and smooth to the bottom of the piece. Please make sure that joint is NOT sunken or recessed in any way."
Try to use as many synonyms as possible, good idea.
 

HellsWindStaff

Dharma Initiate
At least three bases will be compatible with these pieces- the FC-mod, FC-278, and the Cobra Can.

The Cobra Can is not yet available, but Steven is working on it.

Glad I mentioned something then, did not check the Cobra Can designs, but IMO I would prefer something designed more like the VXH bases and not with the double chambers and I'd also want it to be a little less tall. I'd prefer a shorter and fatter/wider base then a narrow taller one.

Also, would prefer it to have a Male 18 mm on top, since all these tubes being designed are being planned with a 18mm female on bottom. I get I could use the "side" joint, but that's why I'd prefer it on top. I would reckon it would be safer for the glass to be stacking straight upwards, then to set up on the. Also, not sure if the EVO will have clearance on these new pieces inverted with the new tube designs.

I have this piece, and while not quite the same thing, it's structure I think is superior to the taller cans, but that is my personal preference. Low center of gravity harder to knock over ;)

x354-q80.jpg


Turn that sidecar into a 18 mm female, wide enough out from the base so you could invert things as necessary, make the top 18 mm male for stacking on a dedicated base and not stacking on the side joint of a dedicated base
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Glad I mentioned something then, did not check the Cobra Can designs, but IMO I would prefer something designed more like the VXH bases and not with the double chambers and I'd also want it to be a little less tall. I'd prefer a shorter and fatter/wider base then a narrow taller one.

Also, would prefer it to have a Male 18 mm on top, since all these tubes being designed are being planned with a 18mm female on bottom. I get I could use the "side" joint, but that's why I'd prefer it on top. I would reckon it would be safer for the glass to be stacking straight upwards, then to set up on the. Also, not sure if the EVO will have clearance on these new pieces inverted with the new tube designs.

I have this piece, and while not quite the same thing, it's structure I think is superior to the taller cans, but that is my personal preference. Low center of gravity harder to knock over ;)

x354-q80.jpg


Turn that sidecar into a 18 mm female, wide enough out from the base so you could invert things as necessary, make the top 18 mm male for stacking on a dedicated base and not stacking on the side joint of a dedicated base

Yeah I see what you're saying, these will work with FC Mod 278 and UFO, but those set ups wont be like the hydrabase2.0 which does seem to be really awesome in its own right

I agree we should try to get one of those made too, a nice short but fat little bubbler with a right angle female 18mm joint going to a simple inline perc, with a male 18mm on top for these tunes or even a dry mouthpiece...

Add it to the list @Bongologist for once these tubes get going, as a phase two

I don't think we should be taking into account inverted Evo's at all though personally, I don't think it's so good using it like that imo, prefer whip set up to keep Evo upright, and it already can't clear many bubblers inverted, not even FC Mod with a tube on it. I like taking it into consideration for the flush tube joints, but worrying about inverted Evo's is too much extra thought and unnecessary for this project imo
 
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shark sandwich

"shit sandwich"
Accessory Maker
@HellsWindStaff

There are images of the Cobra Can design in this album: http://imgur.com/a/KSGTy

The cobra can will be roughly 5.5 inches tall and 7.5 inches wide. It will have a low drag, low-diffusion perc, and the male joint for mouthpiece attachment is located nearer to the middle of the piece, rather than being "outboard". This should make it very stable, as you suggest.

If you would like to sketch up an idea and share it here, I encourage you to do so. Folks in this thread can help a lot when it comes to getting a design made, and it can take a lot of help!
 

Bongologist

JoJo Woodworks
Accessory Maker
I was invisioning these stacked on the cobra can and UFO. I could see where a few stacked on the UFO would be stressful to the joint, but I don't think it would tip. I had thought about a base but really wanted to see the cobra can before working on anything.
 
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