I purchased some concentrate here in WA State for it's high THC value and low cost (25/gr) and noticed that it is has been decarbed (THC-A=0%. THC=70.1%). Is that a good thing? Seems like if you are going to vape it, it's an unnecessary step.
Ha, sorry to bring your post up again FlyingLow, but since I have had the same problem I was wondering how things turned out?It has already evaporated. Do I add more alcohol or is this powder wasted?
You should buy a coil and then purchase a quartz enail to fit the coil.I went to the LHS to buy an e-nail coil and he said that he didn't have any, but when I looked, I need to find one made for quartz bangers. What sort of e-nail coil should I be looking for?
delta-9 THCa - 248F
delta-9 THC - 311F
you can get undecarb'd concentrate (most often CO2 process), which also includes terpene profiles so you can play with fingerprinting specific strains.
delta-9 THCa has a distinct biological/physiological profile compared to delta-9 THC.
That's funny that I was just pondering this topic and came here looking to post about THC and THCa and it's being discussed right now.
Alot of cheap bho is buy is not labeled at all, and most of the time if it is, it only shows results for "THC" (presumable THC not THCa?) and maybe CBD.
Since I just picked up a nice batch of pop naturals co2 oils after not having any of their products for a long time, I notice their lab results are much more detailed now: shows me terpene %'s of 5 specific terps, as well as THCa, THC, CBD, CBDa (and also CBN THCV CBG and CBC)
So this tube of durban poison has 21% thc and 29% thca. If I thought it only had 21% "total" thc content, that would be pretty weak for a concentrate, but does the thca also count towards the total thc content?
The way I understand it, regarding vaping thc and / or thca, it didn't matter if it is "decarbed" or not, because the heating and vaping process will do that for you. So when I am vaping THCa at well over 300F, is it effectively becoming THC, or is it really vaping in a different way with its own distinct properties as you implied?
Thanks psychonaut, that was all great advice, and I actually didn't try to crank up the volts on my Kanger battery with the tank on - it has settings from 3.2 to 4.4 but I rarely go above 3.6 - I will try increasing the volts.@OldOyler Sorry I cannot answer on it's wicking capabilities with the quartz coils. Have you tried adding a little more concentrate to your mix to boost the strength? Also, I am not sure what your kanger wicks are capable of, but I know in my aerotank 2 I am able to get 15 watts before a burning taste happens with most coils. If you have a variable voltage/wattage device, might try and boost the watts for a stronger dose.
Greetings brother, thought I'd start you out by suggesting that you try a higher temp for the final stage of the purge. 120f is considerably lower than the boiling point of ethanol (~173f). At 120f, if you want all of that final residual ethanol to escape during the last step of the purge, this is possible but it will take a very long time (more than one waking day is possible depending on your local conditions etc.). 120f is of course a good for getting rid of the bulk of the ethanol in the first step of a heat only purge where you have mostly ethanol in your solution. You might consider jacking your temp up to the 173f mark or as close as practical once you have gotten rid of the bulk of the ethanol and see if this leaves you able to finish the purge in a reasonable timeframePeace all!
Okay, any suggestions for qwet purge tek, I assume a vac of some sort, to "auto-magically" turn my qwet "mash" into shatter? Or something similar, a wax I can vape in my Yocan Torch (500F-ish).
I have rock-solid NuWave induction cookware, nice Pyrex pie plates, even slick sheet. I use good old Everclear 189. Single 5-minute wash.
I can get earrll returns (using heat that is at or near full decarb temps) of 2g per ounce of trim or 3+ grams from ounce of flower. The resulting absolut is very nice, but crap...
I can NOT for the life of me get a run to purge completely. It'll look gorgeous on the pie plate, but it's not. 110 - 120F, even tried blasting the heat up to 175 here and there at different points of the purge.
After 3 HUGE fails I went to look at making bubble. But it's out of my league and comfort zone right now. So...
I would love a piece of tek that I could LINE with slick sheet, turn it on for however long, and DING! There's shatter. Small runs, an ounce of starting material at a time usually, never more than two. And I would love to keep it at $150 or under but that's probably fantasy. So PLEASE don't fall into my fantasy world, I am willing to hear "what's what".
I won't switch to rosin tek until well into next year, and I really need an affordable solution like...within a few weeks if possible.
So...anybody have time and want to school a noob on qwet purge tek?
Thanks in advance, and good things to everyone.
Peace everyone!You might consider jacking your temp up to the 173f mark or as close as practical once you have gotten rid of the bulk of the ethanol and see if this leaves you able to finish the purge in a reasonable timeframe
You definitely wanna do what I said above at the final stage where it is looking like it could be already purged but actually isn't (good guess!).Peace everyone!
Ah herbivore21 my friend, I do believe I am finally listening.
I had tried 175F at various points, but not with any specific understanding of when or how long. I had even tried air-drying as a "final purge" for 4 or 5 days, but nope. Must get a little bit trapped anyway.
So, yes I can hit that temp, so "where" in particular at the very end should I start that (like when it looks like it "should" be purged but I know it probably isn't), or does it need to be a little before that, etc. and of course most importantly - for how long-ish? I don't have a problem babysitting qwet runs and giving a bunch of attention at the end, so time isn't a problem. (Although my NuWave has like a 2-hour auto shut off). I just don't want to ruin it by going too long, and 5 minutes or 30 are doable, just want to "do" the right one.
You may have just saved me enough $ by a simple process change to get my D-Nail a bit earlier than I thought...or maybe the Illuminati first...
I hope the karma train visits you for all the times you've given me a huge hand bud. I'll follow your instructions when you hit me with them, and I'll make sure to post results.
Peace!
Peace!The amount of time that the purge will take is in part a function of how much solvent you are getting rid of and how much resin you have as well as how broad of a purge vessel and heating surface.
I don't know enough about such things to advise, but, if you use Azadirachtin for your search rather than Neem Oil, you might get some better info. There are certainly a lot of chemical data out there that will cover many of the issues.Peace all!
I have some co2 wax that clearly has a subtle antiseptic smell, possibly neem oil.
I found this https://www.420magazine.com/forums/problems-pests-and-disease-control/114333-neem-oil-advise.html
But I trust FC because I actually know the opinions are great from actually following them, so I was hoping for opinions and experience.
So, safe to vape in my Yocan Torch (500F'ish)?
Thanks in advance, and good things to everyone!
My friend above is pretty spot on here. There isn't much information I know of on the boiling and inhalation (remember, oils don't typically combust at the temps we use for dabbing) of neem oil but I know that a lot of my buddies doing advanced solventless processing and especially isolation fucking HATE growers who use neem oil. They have to spend a whole lot of time getting the stuff out of their final product and those friends of mine have typically abandoned such sources of raw material as a result.I don't know enough about such things to advise, but, if you use Azadirachtin for your search rather than Neem Oil, you might get some better info. There are certainly a lot of chemical data out there that will cover many of the issues.
(Not that I think there will be a study on intentional vaporization or combustion and inhalation of the pesticide.)
Thanks OldNewbie!Azadirachtin
What are the chances of my replying just before you post this lol?! What a coincidence!Thanks OldNewbie!
I need @herbivore21 or somebody with science-head please?
I read the entries, good stuff and over my head, so hoping for the gurus.
Good on you for that grab ON, thanks!
I am making some of my own shatter tomorrow, so I can wait on any opinions. Plus it's only a gram of co2 wax, but that's 2-3 days for me, plus the grey market isn't known for refunds...
Peace everyone!
Peace!I don't think you need to worry too much on this one-off occasion if it is neem oil. If your errl was genuinely extracted with CO2 and no other solvents, then there is a reasonably good chance that the smell/flavor is from the use of neem oil during flower. You should ask the grey market provider if you get a chance, usually they'll be honest about neem oil use if they know about it and are connected to the grower
Yup, shatter cooking now will post that later today on dab stash thread, barring any epic failures.I do suggest making your own meds from known flowers wherever possible though
Peace!I do suggest making your own meds from known flowers wherever possible though - if you can't get properly lab tested retail concentrates - this is the path to relative peace of mind.
Peace all!
I have some co2 wax that clearly has a subtle antiseptic smell, possibly neem oil.
I found this https://www.420magazine.com/forums/problems-pests-and-disease-control/114333-neem-oil-advise.html
But I trust FC because I actually know the opinions are great from actually following them, so I was hoping for opinions and experience.
So, safe to vape in my Yocan Torch (500F'ish)?
Thanks in advance, and good things to everyone!