Gear Best Clearo for Pure Gold?

Hoosier

Well-Known Member
Great news. VaporBeast has the new attys in stock, in both 1.5Ω and 2.0Ω. I just ordered a five pack of each. Not super cheap ($13 per five pack), but certainly reasonable considering they're the only place I've seen them in stock and available. Free shipping and the YEAHBABY coupon code will get you 10% off. link (@Roth: I can't tell for sure, but it looks like the place you recommended is currently out of stock).

For those that don't know what the hell walrus and I are talking about, there are now two different kinds of genuine KangerTech atty's for the 3 series (again, irrespective of resistance, which in this case is 1.5Ω or 2.0Ω). The new kind has four holes drilled for the liquid to get to the wick and coil, with the wick NOT extending out past the metal atty shell. The original kind has the wicks protuding about 1mm outside the shell. Both are a dual coil design.

After my experience last week in LA when it was ~105°, and my mPT3 with a standard (not new style) dual coil atty leaked a little bit every day, I decided to try the new style atty in the mPT3. So I grabbed an unused 1.5Ω new style atty from my AeroTank Mini (which I haven't used yet), and put it into the mPT3. So far, it's working perfectly, the same as the old style did. I am holding off on a gushing recommendation until I've put a couple of grams of Pure Gold through it (to make sure it doesn't clog up), and until I've had it outside at >90° in my pocket (to make sure it doesn't leak). The 1.5Ω atty is working fine with all of my batteries (not sure why as the old style 1.5Ω atty was too low for some of my tiny batteries), so I may not prefer the new 2.0Ω version over the new 1.5Ω version as I did with the older style. Still have my battery set to deliver 7.5W to 8.5W.

YMMV :)
Glad to hear about the new coil with the mpt3...any idea when you might get around to trying that aerotank mini? I've had one in my shopping cart for 3 weeks waiting for a real life review (non-nicotine juice review, that is)
 
Hoosier,

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
I think the AeroTank Mini and the mPT3 will work pretty much the same, other than one can adjust the airflow in the AeroTank. Since I'm happy with the airflow in the mPT3, I don't expect to see much difference between the two, other than the differences in the construction of the new atty (which can be used in either). The mPT3 is available now for about $7 (a real one, not a clone). The AeroTank Mini is still more expensive, with the lowest price I've seen at about $20.

It may be a while before I get around to using the AeroTank mini...
 
Haywood,

Hoosier

Well-Known Member
I think the AeroTank Mini and the mPT3 will work pretty much the same, other than one can adjust the airflow in the AeroTank. Since I'm happy with the airflow in the mPT3, I don't expect to see much difference between the two, other than the differences in the construction of the new atty (which can be used in either). The mPT3 is available now for about $7 (a real one, not a clone). The AeroTank Mini is still more expensive, with the lowest price I've seen at about $20.

It may be a while before I get around to using the AeroTank mini...

Thanks. I have been using a mpt3 for a month now with no issues as well...like you appear to be, I am always on the quest for the next best thing.
 
Hoosier,

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
For anyone that cares, here's a link on VaporJoe's site that's selling genuine Kanger Mini ProTank 3's, today only, for $5. I'm posting the VaporJoe's link rather than the direct link, because if you don't know about VaporJoe's, you should...

link
 
Haywood,

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
And for those that are following the ever changing Kanger tank and atty saga...

There are now three types of dual bottom coil atty's for the Kanger AeroTank (and Mini and Mega) and ProTank 3 (and Mini 3), and EVOD 2, T3D and EVOD Glass. All three varieties of atty work in all of the mentioned tanks, and all are available in both 1.5Ω and 2.0Ω.

Type 1 is the original, with two wicks protruding out each side of the atty about 1mm via a slot on each side that runs from the bottom to the top of the atty. It was released with the original ProTank 3. (There was even a version without a long top tube that was released with the prototype PT3s, but it was never actually sold or included with shipping PT3s. Ah, probably too much info).

Type 2 was released with the AeroTank and AeroTank Mini. It has two holes drilled in each side of the atty, instead of a full length slot, and the two wicks do NOT protrude outside the shell. There is a thin layer of a porus material on the inside of the shell. The two holes (on each side) run vertically and are spaced such that one more hole of the same size made between them would remove all the metal, making a single oval shaped hole three holes high.

Type 3 was released with the AeroTank Mega, and is the same as the Type 2, except instead of two holes on each side, there is a single oval hole on each side, as described above.

You can get the Type 3 version from fasttech now. (2.0Ω link) (1.5Ω link). Expect to wait at least two or three weeks before they show up. $8.61 per five pack. You can get the Type 2 versions from a bunch of US places now, at around $9-$10 per five pack. You can still get Type 1 attys here in the US for a few bucks less. All of these genuine KangerTech.


I've been using a Type 2 for a week or so, having put maybe a gram through it, in my Mini ProTank 3. I'm down to about a half gram left, watching to see how it does with an almost empty tank. I haven't been in 100° weather, so I can't see if it leaks when carried in my pocket outside. So far I like it better than the Type 1, as it doesn't have the tiny bit of oil in the airpath that has to be cleared with the first hit on a cold pipe. Also, I don't know if the Type 3, which was released with the MEGA version of the AeroTank, will work as well (with Pure Gold) with the MINI AeroTank/Protank3. I'm getting all the flow I want with the two holes on each side (Type 2), and I wonder if 50% more flow that the Type 3 provides will have a tendency to leak when warm, or force me to take one second hits instead of the three second hits I prefer. Time will tell. I haven't ordered any Type 3 atty's from fasttech.
 

lesvape

Queer in a high haze
I have mentioned the T3D before and yet to try it with pure gold, and as aforementioned a few times the attys work on PT3. The T3D only leaks for me when I load my e-juice, and it's usually minimal. The air flow is to my liking, and as I've said it could be a nice lower cost alternative to the mPT3.

Edit: I think my T3D came with the long tube atty. When I get the chance I will take pics of both my T3D & PT3 attys.
 
lesvape,

baltik

Well-Known Member
Haywood - do you happen to know where I can find #2 aerotank attys?
Also do you happen know what material the attys are made for? I am trying to better understand the Chromed brass vs Stainless argument. My PT3 mini works really well but considering an aerotank due to better construction (not interested in air control).

On a side note, my standard 900mAh ego-c (non VV) had a hard time driving the 2.0 coils, the original 1.5O ended up delivering a much more satisfactory hit, something to keep in mind if you have a non Variable Voltage battery...
 
baltik,

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
The last message on the page before this one has the info and link for ordering the "Type 2" atty. Here's a link to that message. I've started to see the Type 2 five packs for as low as $9, but the link I mention has free shipping and it only took three days from when I ordered them to arrive. They have both resistances available. Worth the $11.75 price.

I have no need for the variable airflow either, and I have no problems with chrome plated brass, so I haven't had the urge to drain my mPT3 and start using the MiniAeroTank. The build quality of both is identical, and the atty is the atty, whichever mini you put it in. Probably will try the aero when the mPT3 is finally empty.

I'm using a 1.5Ω Type 2 atty now, and I'm happy with it. Haven't gotten around to trying one of the 2.0Ω Type 2 attys that arrived the other day. I preferred the 2.0Ω Type 1 to the 1.5Ω Type 1, but I think I prefer the 1.5Ω Type 2. If you understood that, you're not stoned enough.

I have two tiny 350mAh fixed voltage eGo batts I use for extreme stealth. For some reason, they seem to work fine with the 1.5Ω Type 2 atty. 4.0V output, I think. Go figure.
 
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fernand

Well-Known Member
Hey @Haywood so THIS is where you're hangin'. I've just acquired the various protank 2 and 3 components. My objective is much the same as yours but using supermelt or thick CO2 oil thinned with just enough, a minimum of, EJMix or PG USP or dipropylene glycol, all of which are sitting here on the bench. And all of which taste bleh. So a minimum. How much? I want the terpenes of different strains, not just a standardized refined cannabinoid thing.

Question: Are you messin at all with thinned super melts or CO2 oils? Is there a separate thread for using such with ecig gear?

Question2: have you ever messed with removing the flavor wick in the 2 or 3 protank heads? What do you prefer about the mini protank3/aerotank over the 2 with the single coils ?

p.s. Got some BUD carts too. Those work with an all VG juice (for test) only if i periodically vent the blue "cork". So now I understand why the O-Pen Vape pre fills are so finicky! They do taste (better) if you make them wick by poppin' da blue cork!
 
fernand,

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
Hey Haywood so THIS is where you're hangin'. I've just acquired the various protank 2 and 3 components. My objective is much the same as yours but using supermelt or thick CO2 oil thinned with just enough, a minimum of, EJMix or PG USP or dipropylene glycol, all of which are sitting here on the bench. And all of which taste bleh. So a minimum. How much? I want the terpenes of different strains, not just a standardized refined cannabinoid thing.

Question: Are you messin at all with thinned super melts or CO2 oils? Is there a separate thread for using such with ecig gear?
Not really. I do my non-liquid concentrates in genuine 2.0Ω Joye 510 Attys with their bridge removed. I posted a bunch of pictures in a couple of messages in the "one-hitter-quitter" thread here in the Concentrates section. I have heard nothing but good things about EJMix, fwiw, but I haven't used it.

Question2: have you ever messed with removing the flavor wick in the 2 or 3 protank heads? What do you prefer about the mini protank3/aerotank over the 2 with the single coils ?
I don't have a protank 2 (mini or otherwise), just a couple of mini protank 3's and a mini aerotank which I haven't gotten around to trying. Note from my previous messages in this thread (see here and here or just scroll up) that there are currently three versions of the dual coil atty for the Kanger generation 3 clearos. Only the "Type 1" can have it's flavor wick removed without destroying the atty. I've been using the "Type 2" atty's lately, which don't have the protruding wicks, and I haven't removed the flavor wick from one of my "Type 1" attys, so I can only give you a guess as to the results. My "Type 1" atty leaks a tiny bit out of the bottom airhole in the 510 connector if it's really hot out (>100°F) and the mPT3 is in my pocket. I really suspect if you removed the flavor wick that it would (1) leak like a sieve, even when it's not hot, and (2) the upper and lower coils would short out, if not immediately, then after a little while (the flavor wick is between the top coil and the lower coil, and provides insulation between the two coils as well as keeping them moist). One of these days I'm going to get around to winding some kanthol around a flexible ceramic wick, and see if I can make a better atty than the current (Vers 2 and 3) Kanger atty's. I suspect not...

p.s. Got some BUD carts too. Those work with an all VG juice (for test) only if i periodically vent the blue "cork". So now I understand why the O-Pen Vape pre fills are so finicky! They do taste (better) if you make them wick by poppin' da blue cork!
I haven't used my GotVapes Sapphires ("BUD") in quite a while (ever since I got the first mPT3). I have ten of the revision 5 here I ordered a while back. I discovered a while ago that periodic burping (removing the fill plug and then putting it back) was necessary. The reason I stopped using them was due to the much more restrictive draw on the Bud clearos, a much less tasty hit, and the duck bill non-replaceable, non-driptip mouthpiece (all as compared to a mPT3 or aerotank mini).
 
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fernand

Well-Known Member
@Haywood thanks, everything you say makes sense. And apparently small leaks can glue parts together.

Somehow an image keeps coming back to me of a higher resistance lower temp single coil being more suited to wicking thick liquids. Less blockage in one wick? The one pair of wicks on the mPT2 sits down in contact with the floor, gets every drop, and maybe the mPT3 doesn't warm up as much, and I need warmth for the thick oil to flow better, to wick and bathe the coil. All this makes the mPT2 maybe the first to try?

Test
it ? Yes. Since I nic vape all VG, it's quite viscous, and testing with such e-juice the mini aerotank3 seems to give a slightly fatter vapor and taste. But that impression may not be "statistically significant" or be relevant to our needs.

Haven't tried the 1.5 ohm 3tank Haywood type2 heads that came with the miniAeroTank.

I'm the type who lines everything up before trigger pull, so I'm mining for experiences, and you're a cogent guy. Thanks!
 
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fernand,

walrus

Well-Known Member
Mini protank2s leak like crazy. Other than that they work great with liquid concentrates. Satisfying, cloudy hits. Overall good performance. Packs much more of a punch than the Sapphires. Everything about them works well.... And then it leaks. Sometimes because of the heat, sometimes inexplicably. Sometimes it leaks within hours of filling it, sometimes after days or weeks of use. Sometimes the leaks are small, often they leak a large amount at very inopportune times. Not worth the hassle, certainly can't recommend it.

Mini Aerotank has been great so far but I'm only about half a tank into using them so I can't really give an accurate report.
 
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Roth

Pining for the Mountains
I'm using a Mini Aerotank still and liking it. That said, I haven't used it much or had it outside with me where heat will be a factor. Promising start, we shall see how it hold up.

My last batch of liquid I made with EJMix, I made it only about 15% EJMix, compared to my normal ~25-30%. It's much thicker, but hoping it helps out with leaks. At room temp, it's super thick, might take 5 minutes to drip down the tank if turned upside down.

Heading to Bonnaroo (music festival) in a few days, it will certainly get heat tested there!
 
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fernand

Well-Known Member
FWIW I just ran some tests of EJMix vs. Propylene glycol USP liquifying a Supermelt wax, and so far they seem to behave identically.
 
fernand,

Roth

Pining for the Mountains
FWIW I just ran some tests of EJMix vs. Propylene glycol USP liquifying a Supermelt wax, and so far they seem to behave identically.

Interesting, care to share the data? How long have you been observing the mixtures? Will be interesting to see if they both behave similarly after a few weeks and they've been vaped on a bit.
 
Roth,

thisperson

Ruler of all things person
The only thing I didn't get is why this thread was made for pure gold. It is not particularly thick and I would imagine works just fine in most any clearo.

It certainly worked in my O Pen Cartridge.
 
thisperson,

fernand

Well-Known Member
@thisperson I think one huge advantage of Pure Gold is the fact that it doesn't smell like anything familiar. But I'd like to retain the terpenes etc of specific strains if at all possible in a thinned concentrate. In neither case will "just about any" clearo work. Try it.

Is EJMix necessary, or can straight Propylene Glycol be used? I'm not sure of my liquidizing results now. I haven't put these samples into a cart yet. It looked like EJMix and Propylene Glycol dissolved SuperMelt wax equally well, as in step 2 below. That's 0.100 g of SuperMelt and 0.050 g of solvent in each 1 ml test tube. In step 1 about 0.025 g of solvent (a drop) was added, the sample was warmed in hot water to around 120 deg F, then stirred with an 18 G needle, and finally another 0.025 g of solvent added . That's when it suddenly goes clear.

I feel like a dolt, but it looks like my right side sample got a trace of moisture in during the hot water baths. There's some whitish wax that appeared on the glass at the stopper, and some turbidity can be seen in the right side sample now. So I guess I have to make another SuperMelt in Propylene Glycol sample to be sure it isn't "flocculation" i.e. separation.


IMG_5869_comp_RL_zps8c3a4230.jpg


After vaping for years, I've developed a suspicion that many if not all failures, leaks with various cartos etc. are most often due to subtle operator error. Meaning not being forgiving and positive in the context of some very bad designs. You either are willing to do heroic things to make your vape work, or you will let it fail.

For instance, the Bud "Sapphire" type has no way take in air, so without periodic burping of the blue plug, it CANNOT feed a thick liquid, and will burn. But if you do let air in, it works pretty well. Too bad they don't bother to tell us. The bottom silicone plug for the 510 connector is excellent, why not use it?

For E-Cig use, we expect a system to flawlessly cowtow to the chain vaper's needs. But we don't chain-vape concentrate. There are a lot of options if we're not requiring continuous perfection with zero maintenance. If we're looking for one-two-hitters, even the old Joye cartridge system could be adapted to work.

What the coil wax dabbers, and the liquidized wax wickers, and the Pure Gold vapers all have in common is trying to work the best compromises, making the best of what we got. The way I see it, with present technology, solubilizing the oil is part of the puzzle.
 
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MaxVapor

The Professor
I have been using a Gotvapes "bud" sapphire cart (with the blue plug) for at least 6 months. I have run at least 5 grams (10 vials) and never opened the stopper except to fill ( ie no burping). I have had no leaks, no burning, and still get great clouds. The flavor (such as it is) is not as good as it used to be, but otherwise it is still working great. I have another 9 sapphires I have yet to use as the first has lasted so long and worked so well.
 

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
Another one of my periodic updates on how the Kanger atty's used in the mPT3 and AeroTanks are working for me.

I've got a 1.5Ω Type 2 (non-protruding wicks, two holes on each side) in my mPT3, and this weekend I spend some time outside, in 85°-90° temp, in the sun, with the clearo in my shirt pocket. Much like my experience a few weeks ago in LA (95°-100°), there was a little leakage of Pure Gold out the bottom air hole in the atty, and a little gurgle to a cold draw.

It seems that temps over 85° or so are still a cause for tiny leaks. Oh, and both times the level of Pure Gold was almost empty; right at or just below the lower level of the glass tank. So it may "require" both high ambient temperature AND an almost empty tank.
 
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fernand

Well-Known Member
@MaxVapor, so Pure Gold is all you use? I can only report what I get, I'm trying out all this gear with glycerin right now to figure it out. With 95% VG (with 5% flavorings, no nic) on the first generic BUD cart I tried, it can't feed right away. This type has the blue plugs and is generic Chinese BUD, like what the O-Pen-Vapes folks use, not especially purchased from GotVapes. My glycerin just sits there, it's viscous as hell and it barely wicks on the little fibers sticking up out of the metal tube. Certainly not enough to prevent dry burning.

Same problem with the O-Pen-Vapes carts. Once it warms up and I let pressure equalize by letting in some air, drawing on the mouthpiece creates a relative vacuum in the bottom portion that pulls some liquid down the tube, and then it works fine. It's not even so much that it "wicks", in the sense of passively diffusing. It's suction that feeds all these bottom-coil units. I suspect that's why they removed the protruding wicks on the new PT3 heads, they're not doing much.

Same on the Kanger mini aero. If I close off the air flow ring, sucking on the tip pulls liquid from the outer glass tank through the wick holes to the coils. Bubbles appear in the liquid as air from the bottom replaces some liquid. With the airflow ring wide open, there is little suction applied to the tank to pull in fresh liquid, the coil cooks off what's there, and a dry burned hit becomes a possibility.

The Kanger protank 2 mini has 3 fixed little holes on the base for a medium airflow that balances well. To pull more liquid to the coil, I plug the holes around the base with my finger and suck on the tip. It immediately pulls in liquid and halts any harsh burning taste.

@MaxVapor, I'm very curious if the reason your BUD works differently is because of something specific to Pure Gold, or some detail (what?) about the Gotvapes carto. For instance they could have requested an unnoticeable pinhole in the top. With a thick liquid it wouldn't leak through it, but the air intake would let liquid feed down to the coil. In fact, one could make it adjustable, though it's very different from a Kanger.

@Haywood, do you keep your rig vertical or just let it flop? On a battery or separate? If separate it would be easy to use those little silicone bottom BUD plugs on the 510 connector ...

When you say a little leakage, you mean like a trace or a drop? What do you do about it? is PureGold very sticky? As sticky as Supermelt etc?

If it's leaking down from the coil wick above the air inlet, what about trying this: rather than end the session with a lot of liquid still on the coils, burn off most liquid by opening airflow wide from the bottom (so there's minimum suction) and vaping off the remainder before setting it aside. Then start the next session with a "priming", by sucking liquid in, i.e. plugging air intakes on the base with fingers, or closing an airflow ring if available, and sucking on the mouthpiece with power off.

On the EJMIx vs Propylene Glycol front, I ended up adding a drop of EJMIx to my turbid Propylene Glycol only sample, and it cleared right up. I'm convinced now that EJMix stands a better chance than straight Propylene Glycol of creating a stable non-separating liquid at concentrations around 1/3 EJM to 2/3 wax. It's possible that with more solvent the difference becomes insignificant, but at $30 for 50 ml EJMix is not prohibitive anyway. Some people mention Glycerin (VG) in connection with "thinned oils", but that's an error; VG is water-soluble and doesn't tolerate high temps.
 
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fernand,

baltik

Well-Known Member
My issue with ej-mix vs PG is that the e-cig industry is moving away from PEG compounds due to safety concerns. I realize that there is not a ton of hard science out there but given this is all rather new and the whole reason I am vaping is for health... I'd rather err on the conservative side
 
baltik,

MaxVapor

The Professor
@fernand I use Pure Gold exclusively for portable vaping only. Using the aforementioned GV sapphire carts. I have also experimented with ejMix and winterized crumble in mPT2 tanks which both leaked on me. Last night I took the rescued ej/wax and loaded a sapphire with it and I'll report how that goes.

GotVapes claims their sapphires are different than the other "buddy" cartos, but I don't know if that is just marketing.
 
MaxVapor,

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
Haywood, do you keep your rig vertical or just let it flop? On a battery or separate? If separate it would be easy to use those little silicone bottom BUD plugs on the 510 connector ... When you say a little leakage, you mean like a trace or a drop? What do you do about it? is PureGold very sticky? As sticky as Supermelt etc? If it's leaking down from the coil wick above the air inlet, what about trying this: rather than end the session with a lot of liquid still on the coils, burn off most liquid by opening airflow wide from the bottom (so there's minimum suction) and vaping off the remainder before setting it aside. Then start the next session with a "priming", by sucking liquid in, i.e. plugging air intakes on the base with fingers, or closing an airflow ring if available, and sucking on the mouthpiece with power off.
I keep my rig vertical, though it may lean as much as 30° off vertical in my pocket. The battery is always attached. The amount of leakage is a very small drop worth, maybe about the size of a pin head. What I do is scrape it off the positive terminal of the battery with a toothpick and transfer it to edge of a cigarette (yeah, I know). I also do the same thing with the little bit of Pure Gold that's still clinging to the bottom of the atty where the air hole is. Pure Gold is about the same viscosity as honey, with a similar stickiness. If I turn the clearo completely upside down, it takes many minutes for the Pure Gold to drain from the bottom of the tank to the top.

The mPT3 I use doesn't have adjustable airflow, but it's pretty wide open as-is, unless I deliberately cover one or more of the three air holes on the side of the clearo. Not sure that my AeroTank Mini, which does have adjustable airflow will provide much more air intake than the mPT3 does. I'll let everyone know when I get around to using the AeroTank Mini. What I have been doing is turning the rig upside down and taking the next half dozen hits that way, so that any Pure Gold that's in the air hole flows away from the bottom hole in the atty, and back to the coils (rather then down to the top of the battery).
 
Haywood,

fernand

Well-Known Member
What I have been doing is turning the rig upside down and taking the next half dozen hits that way, so that any Pure Gold that's in the air hole flows away from the bottom hole in the atty, and back to the coils (rather then down to the top of the battery).

... which also removes it from the coil, it dries out as you vape it.

I think that realizing how much of a role suction plays in "wicking" on the bottom feeders has really helped me understand and approach this a little differently.

That and realizing we need a better abbreviation for Pure Gold, as "PG" is used throughout a lot of different industries to signify Propylene Glycol. Can you see ordering a liter of "PG" for making juice and getting a bill for ... $60,000? Carramba! Hey ... maybe it's worth it, strictly personal use, my family, you know, now that it's here!

I'm running one more sample of Supermelt in PG (Propylene Glycol) alone. The previous PG sample that was hit with a little water and started flocculating went perfectly transparent with less that a full drop of EJMix. But now i'm not sure how it would have done with PG alone. So, I'm setting up a new sample, with 0.100g of SuperMelt and 0.050g of just PG. And no risky water immersion this time, and we'll see if PG alone will hold perfect clarity, with no separating.

@baltik, as to the fear of Polyethylene Glycols (PEG), from what I can see perusing the professional lit, there is nothing to suggest a real danger, like breakdown into (toxic) Diethylene Glycol. And NOTHING IS COMPLETELY FREE OF POSSIBLE PROBLEMS AND BENEFITS. PEG has been found to protect and heal injured nerves. But that doesn't make it safe in other areas. The human body is not a static system, free of bacteria and toxins. It's a sewer in a very complex state of equilibrium. The amounts of PEG absorbed in vaping are tiny, the lethal injected doses in rodents are large. I'm not worried at the moment.

I like nic-vaping 95% VG best, but THAT won't solubilize oils. There's info on VG decomposing to Acrolein at high temp.
 
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Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
Another quick update; I hate the AeroTank Mini air control system.

I switched from the mPT3 clearo to the ATm yesterday, and I really don't like the airflow control ring system. First, the ring is way way way too loose, making it almost impossible to avoid rotating it accidentally. I had to reset it to my desired position almost every time I used it. Second, the active rotation range is extremely non-linear with regard to airflow, and provides way too much air for most (95%) of it's active rotation range. Keeping in mind that the total active rotation range is only 90°, the useful range for my tastes was only 5° of that rotation. Any more closed than that and there was zero airflow, any more open than that and there was way too much airflow, leading to wispy harsh hits (not enough PG getting to the wicks due to reduced vacuum).

The two "problems" compound each other, since any deviation from the "sweet spot", no matter how tiny, has a huge negative effect. This may be due to the AeroTank airflow system being designed for a much less viscous fluid than Pure Gold, and hence it may work better and have a more linear range with thinner e-juice. It also wouldn't be much of a problem if the ring wasn't so lose, and would stay put once one found their "sweet spot". If it matters, I was running the 1.5Ω coil at 7.5 watts.

I changed out the lower assembly removing the AeroTank Mini airflow adjustable base, replacing it with the fixed airflow base from one of my Mini ProTank 3s. Works perfectly again. So the tank and SS end pieces are from the ATm, and the base is Chrome plated Brass from the mPT3. At least everything that is in contact with the PG is still SS. Note that the mPT3 and ATm parts are not completely interchangeable. The two pieces that hold the (Pyrex or SS) tank in place must remain a pair. You can't mix the top from one and the bottom from the other (the central sections that screw together and hold the tank are different lengths). All the other parts are interchangeable.

Oh, and once one of the atty's starts to leak, it will continue to leak, even if it's not hot and the tank isn't empty. So my advice is once a Kanger dual coil atty (of any version) starts to leak, replace it with a fresh one... (They only cost a buck or two and it's easy to get any remaining PG out of the old atty).
 
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