Aromed 4.0

[luchiano]

@Aimless Ryan Nah, I'm not arguing with you, I just glanced real quick over the post last night, because I was extremely nice off some good herb. We can peacefully discuss a topic with different opinions, that's a good mental sparring!

Anyway, what I was trying to convey was that, the Aromed is calibrated differently from most other vaporizers. The sensor is placed near the bulb, but a calculation in the chip from the makers of the aromed, allows for the air to maintain exact temperature. For example, the reason you need to follow the blinking light is because it shows you if you are taking in the amount required to maintain temperature. I think it's 3 liters of air per 15 seconds. They calibrate it at the screen level, meaning The temperature at the bulb, is really not the temperature on the screen. The temperature at the screen, is the true temperature, and every time you inhale it works to maintain that exact temperature. The only other vaporizer that is in this field, is the herbalizer.

You were right that the temperature at the bulb will be different from the herb, it will be 10c higher, every 1cm you go up. That is why they say, not to raise the screen, unless you want a hotter temperature, for something like a concentrate, where you my want to go to around 510f, for a fast release of vapor. This is why I love the Aromed, so much versatility, you just need to be creative!

But, the Aromed is still in a class of its own to me, because it gives such light vapor because of the design. I know everyone isn't crazy about light vapor, but when its used properly with other techniques, its so lovely. The more I observe the Aromed, the more I love it. They way its made. I can easily replace the important parts, like the heater(dirt cheap, too), and water filter, the only problem is that herb holder, but with the scotch fasteners, I don't worry anymore. It ain't moving!

Anyway, I think we are agreeing on things, just expressing them differently. It's not an argument on my side! This is fun to me

 

[Aimless Ryan]

I think I just became a fan of a fairly coarse grind; that is, a single grind through a 4-piece mini Santa Cruz Shredder (without turning the grinder upside down or sideways). I may have also just become a fan of using a significant amount more herb than I had been using per load (at least 0.22 g, rather than about 0.10 g or less).

Doing this causes the top of my pile of herbs to be closer to the light, allows for better airflow than when I was using a finer grind, and keeps me from ending up with a filter full of tiny green specks that were probably sucked through the screen before being fully utilized.

One thing's for sure: I'd rather be doing this than sucking air out of a bag. Now that I have finally thought about it, that would seem and feel so goofy to me.

 

[luchiano]

@Aimless Ryan If you get a chance, get a nice fine screen. These are good:
http://aqualabtechnologies.com/titanium-screen-5-8-inch-60-wire.html

They last, and are tight, so the herb will stay in place, instead of dropping into the water.

Another tip you can do is mix your cannabis with other herbs like chamomile ,and a pinch of tobacco. You get nice effect, and it allows you to save herb, while filling the chamber a nice size.

 

[sweetherb]

I owned my Aromed for 13 years and used it every day. You guys are way overthinking this.

1. Always load at least .3g. I would load .5g and it would last me all day (5 big sessions). I also think tamping the load down slightly helps create a flat top surface and allows more vapor.

2. Turn the unit on and set it around 35°C higher than you want to take your first pull (i.e. for 175°C set 210°C). Walk away and leave the unit for 3 or 4 mins.

3. Come back, turn down to 175°c and inhale slowly while ensuring the red LED keeps flashing. I would take 2 large hits at each temp and then increase by 3°C, finishing around 200°C.

If this does not get you large dense, tasty coulds of vapor, then either the device needs calibration or you need better material. I have used pretty much every herb vaporizer available for sale, and not only does the Aromed give delicious vapor, it is very efficient. Yes, the LSV can deliver a more potent hit in one go (0.2g in one pull), but the Aromed wins in all other departments.

 

[Aimless Ryan]

You're definitely right about overthinking. I overthink everything. I don't think that's necessarily a bad thing, though. Rather, I think that's just something you do when you're trying to find answers. Real answers, not hypotheses. Science.

1. Always load at least .3g. I would load .5g and it would last me all day (5 big sessions). I also think tamping the load down slightly helps create a flat top surface and allows more vapor.

After yesterday's results, I think I was already headed in that direction. I liked the results I got when I used 0.22 g instead of 0.1 g or less, which had become the norm over the few days I've owned the AroMed. I'll try at least 0.3 g next time I reload.

One thing I like so far about using medium to large loads (or at least 0.22 g) is that it positions the top of the herb a little closer to the light, which seems to put it in a slightly higher temperature zone. (There is clearly not a perfectly consistent temperature throughout the entire herb holder.) I'm not sure yet if this matters to me, but I did get a lot of clouds out of 0.22. Although I don't think it matters to me in an aesthetic kind of way, I do think it matters to me in terms of having an idea how much I may be getting from any particular pull.

One thing I would like to try eventually is loading more than 0.5 g, which will raise the highest point of the pile closer to the light and possibly flirt with combustion.

I can't compare the AroMed to any other vaporizer, considering I have never even seen another vaporizer in person. Regardless, I'm definitely very inclined to to feel like I made the right choice. I might eventually like to add a decent portable vaporizer to my collection, though, even though I almost never go anywhere. (Been reading about the Arizer Air. That one seems pretty easy to love, as well.)

(I still appreciate your help immensely, @luchiano. I'm not blowing you off. Just trying some new things, as this is all so new to me.)

EDIT: One thing's for sure: I really like feeling pleasant all day with less than half a gram of herbs, rather than feeling nice for maybe for a few hours at night (from the same dosage).

Oh yeah. I was able to reach down and fairly easily poor dry food into my cat's bowl a day or two ago. I don't know if that resulted from vaping or if it's just coincidental, but it hadn't happened in a long time, and it was nice. I've just about lost hope of ever improving, or even not getting worse, but that gave me a little bit of hope. I have no faith in anything, but sometimes hope can be huge.

 

[luchiano]

@Aimless Ryan Its good you're trying to figure things out yourself, that is where the true knowledge comes from, experience. You might find something I didn't notice before. That's the beauty of this forum, we can toss around knowledge, and ideas to each other, and improve on these products.

As far as getting closer to the light for more heat, remember the Aromed deals with airflow, so even if you get it closer to the bulb, the temperature of the air will still be the same, because what the temperature of the air should be depends on the amount of air traveling through the bulb. Again this is why you inhale with the dot, it is letting you make sure you are inhaling the right amount of air per second.

The only way you can get a hotter source when getting closer to the light is when you raise the screen, because being that the chamber is still basically empty, the airflow would be higher, most likely, and because you are closer to the area above where the machine was calibrated, the temperature will be much hotter. This is good for people who like dabbing, and need to go past 500f. Remember, the temperature is calibrated at the screen, and that means the temperature will always be what the display shows, for anyone that inhales at the proper speed, and at the proper length of time. Which brings me to another point.

The temperature of the herb is not exactly the temperature of the screen, until you keep inhaling and have your herb lossely packed. When you pack the chamber tight, it slows down airflow, and cause the temperature in the middle of the chamber to not be equal to the top of the herb. This is good for people who like clouds(read my other posts to see my theory on clouds). A loosely packed chamber will allow the air to move easily and rapid, so within a few seconds the whole temperature of the herb will be the temperature of the hot air. Once you stop inhaling, it cools off again, being that hot air rises, and the bulb cools down, waiting for you to inhale so it can heat up to temperature again.

This is the only vaporizer that does this, at least to my knowledge. This makes sure your herb can stay more fresh if you want to leave it in the chamber after your session. On your next session, you can just start off right where you left off. This is why they built the Aromed to go back to last temperature of your previous use. They built this thing very well.

 

[Aimless Ryan]

We're cool. I'm just not used to people being reasonable.

The airflow/heat (temperature) most certainly is not the same when I stack a larger pile of herbs closer to the light. I have already experienced vastly different results just by making this one change. Visible, physical results. And the result I'm talking about here is the fact that my herbs became much more noticeably brown, and in a much shorter period of time, when I packed a bigger/taller load. But only on top. This does not happen when I suck on 0.05 g essentially nonstop for an hour or two.

I have a question for you. Would you expect a fully preheated pizza stone, in a fully heated oven, to be the same temperature on every measurable surface? And if so, would you expect it to be the same temperature as the temperature you set on your oven?

(I think I realize I'm not exactly responding to what you said, but I'm going to leave the following paragraph here anyway.)

If the temperature is calibrated at the screen, then how do people set the temperature as 500° at the screen (or anywhere else)? There is no setting for 500°. If it is possible to create 500° anywhere in the herb holder, it's because the temperature on the display is just a guess, regarding what the temperature might be in the vicinity of your herbs. (Note that I didn't say "the temperature of your herbs," which is what really matters.) The temperature on the AroMed's display might be a better guess than every other machine out there can calculate, but it's still a guess.

 

[luchiano]

@Aimless Ryan The reason why you see different results of the color of the herb, is most likely due to the fact that when you have a filled chamber there is more hot air being trapped within the air pockets of the herb. As the hot air goes up, it causes the top herb to stay hot and this causes chlorophyll degradation, and that exposes the brown pigmentation within the plant. When you use a small amount, the air pockets within the herb are not many, and the herb is more close to the cooler area of the herb holder stem, and water holder. This causes the herb to stay cooler, and that means less chlorophyll degradation, so the herb would be more green.

I wouldn't expect the pizza stone to be the same temperature on each area, because a stone is very dense, so it will hold heat, and release heat, differently at different times. It can be close to temperature if it was placed in a large oven, that has a nice consistent temperature, and has had time to get hot. This Analogy is equal to why I wrote a tightly packed chamber will create more clouds, because an easy way to make clouds is to make sure certain paths the vapor has to travel are cooled, and this causes the particles, and droplets, within the vapor to cling to each other, and enlarge. This traps more air, and allows furthing cooling, resulting in dense clouds. This is why clouds give more flavor then thin clouds, more air is trapped. More coughing as well, depending on other things.

A loosely packed chamber doesn't do this as easily because the droplets don't have time to interact with each other as much as a densely packed chamber, so it is much smaller, and this gives thin, almost invincible, clouds. This is because the air doesn't cool off as much, leaving the air expanded, and only cooling off once it gets to the water holder. This is why you don't really see clouds in the water chamber, but when you inhale, you will see a cloud, if under the right light.

You are technically right, the displayed temperature is a "guess", but I is a calculated "guess", meaning if you follow that dot, and instructions to fill the chamber, you will get the same results each time. You have to remember, its using the temperature of the air to calculate what is happening in the chamber. It's not reading the herbal temperature directly, but that isn't needed once you measure the temperature of the air. The air lets you know what is happening, regardless of what is happening. By calibrating at the screen, they are focusing on what's important to the user. What the temperature is inside the chamber, isn't important, because the Aromed is a convection vaporizer, so there is no need to focus on the temperature of the chamber like conduction vaporizers need. Once they realized they can focus on just the temperature of the air, I guess they built the chip, and design, based on this idea.

That's what makes this, and the volcano, special. They allow you to repeat the same thing over, and over, because they function at consistent rates. For example, if you put .2 grams each time you use a volcano or Aromed, you will get the same results each time you use them. If you use a vaporizer that uses different speeds, or is manual, the dose of extracted substances will vary each time you use the vaporizer.

For some this isn't much of an issue, they can figure things out after a while. Others do want to be precise on their usage, so they can always replicate the treatment needed to fix their ailments. So, the Aromed makers put a lot into having an exact AIR temperature, being that this is really a medical machine. They made it to be used with herbs to be used as medicine.

 

[Aimless Ryan]

I just cleaned my AroMed glassware. After letting it drip dry, I inserted the light into the herb holder and proceeded to take 10 or 20 draws of very hot ("235°C") convecting air, in an effort to evaporate the tiny remainder of water inside the herb holder. After taking all of those draws, there was still water on the inside of the herb chamber.

Water boils at 100°C. Almost no water evaporated at "235°C."

I'm sorry, but the temperature display on the AroMed does not provide anything remotely close to an accurate reflection of the temperature inside the herb holder while you are pulling correctly. The temperature may be accurate in one or two spots throughout the herb holder, but not anywhere else.

Having said that, I do not feel like my machine is defective, nor do I have any problem with how my AroMed functions.

 

[luchiano]

I just cleaned my AroMed glassware. After letting it drip dry, I inserted the light into the herb holder and proceeded to take 10 or 20 draws of very hot ("235°C") convecting air, in an effort to evaporate the tiny remainder of water inside the herb holder. After taking all of those draws, there was still water on the inside of the herb chamber.

Water boils at 100°C. Almost no water evaporated at "235°C."

I'm sorry, but the temperature display on the AroMed does not provide anything remotely close to an accurate reflection of the temperature inside the herb holder while you are pulling correctly. The temperature may be accurate in one or two spots throughout the herb holder, but not anywhere else.

Having said that, I do not feel like my machine is defective, nor do I have any problem with how my AroMed functions.

The reason why is because water is a dense substance, and can stay cool easy when the thing it is attached to, is also cool. Glass is a substance that doesn't heat up fast.

If you inhaled with nothing in the chamber, and parts of the herb holder are wet, it would be easy for the water to not be gone, because you are not heating up the glass majorly, but the air. What you're implying is like trying to heat water in the oven with just hot air. If you were to put a pot of water in the oven, It will be slow to boil, and that boil will be slow. On the stove the heat is directly touching the pot, so it heats up much faster, and the water boils fast.

So, the water boils at 212f, but the temperature of the pot can be well over that temperature. The transfer of thermal energy isn't so easy when just using air. With air, you are trying to turn the water into a steam, and that will require a lot of energy. Now, if you used that temperature, and inhaled for two minutes straight, nonstop, you would see most of the water gone due to a consistent high heat touching the water, which forces the molecules in the water to move fast, and create heat, which in turn will make steam. You know this, because you posted on the previous page of this thread, "Air is not a good thermal conductor. Which is why you can reach into a 600°F oven to fetch your food without getting your exposed arms burned by the hot oven air"

We use herbs in our vaporizers, because different substances in the herb release at certain temperatures, and being able to hone in on that temperature allows for a quick release of what you want. We aren't trying to get something dense like water to turn to steam in order to become a gas that can be absorbed in our lungs. We are just releasing compounds that are already small, and can get into our system through our lungs.

Knowing this fact about water, steam, and heat, you can use water to give different types of hits from your herb. For instance, you can use a boveda pack to add a good amount of moisture without leaving the plant wet. This will allow for a smooth, and tasty hit, because the water can easily create clouds that trap the flavor molecules, and force them to rise to our olfactory nerves, on our upper palette. This is where we taste aromatic food.

It will also help prevent dry lungs irritation being that some steam will be released, and add moisture to the respiratory system. It just will need more time to release high temperature compounds, due to the water not heating up that fast, and slowing down the process. This is why a lot of people rather the herb be real dry before vaping, it makes sure they will get a fast release of what they want.

 

[Aimless Ryan]

@luchiano, I also think you and I are probably at least 75% in agreement. That is, we are probably saying a lot of the same things but in different ways. I intend to back off for a while and try to let my brain settle down.

From now on, I don't use Celsius. It's too much trouble for me, and I'm sure it has also been confusing to everyone else when I have used both Fahrenheit and Celsius temperature expressions in the same post, or even the same paragraph (or same sentence). I don't think in Celsius, and that's never going to change. Once upon a time it wouldn't have been much trouble for me to convert the numbers, but now it is. Sorry, Canadians and Europeans.

After giving it some thought, I believe I have come to the conclusion that there is probably a very fine line between not enough thermal mass and too much thermal mass, and that that line is very difficult to draw. Not enough thermal mass probably prevents you from getting the job done, but too much thermal mass surely wastes a lot of herbs (because hot thermal mass remains hot for a while after you want it to cool, which could possibly deplete your herbs before you get back to them). But how much thermal mass is too much thermal mass? I don't care, beginning now.

EDIT: I have just decided that thermal mass is not something we really want. More about this later.

Last night I learned the hard way why you should always at least rinse your herb holder before starting a fresh load. As a consequence, I've spent quite a while sucking on herbs that taste like ABV. Not a big deal, though. I do my best to learn from mistakes.

Having done a little reading yesterday, I may now be inclined to think 451°F does not actually mean what we all think it means; that Ray Bradbury might have actually pulled that number out of his ass. It seems 451° might be more of an urban legend than any kind of documented, concrete "temperature of combustion." I began doubting conventional wisdom when I placed the corner of a piece of paper towel inside a 455° oven yesterday, atop a stone with an even higher temperature than 455°.

The paper towel didn't combust.

After leaving the oven at 455°F for a while, I turned it up to 550°F and left it there for maybe half an hour. By then, there couldn't have been one molecule of matter in that oven with a temperature below 525°F, which is well above "the temperature of combustion." That little piece of paper towel is still sitting on my stone in the oven. It darkened quite a bit, but it didn't combust.

Also, I am beginning to think vaporization may be considerably more than twice as efficient as combusting, at least with me. The last couple days I've been able to move in ways that I haven't moved in a year or two. I seem to have been in considerably less pain, too. Too many things to list right now. I should have plenty more to report about this in time.

 

[luchiano]

@Aimless Ryan yeah vaping is very efficient, especially compared to smoking. I love it.

As far as the paper towel not combusting, I don't know exactly why. Here is a good little write up on combustion, that the makers of the herbalizer did a couple of years ago.

http://libertarianpartyplatform.net...combustion-why-herbalize-no-more-smoking-pot/

"Organic, fibrous, carbon based material can be classified as “wood,” for the purpose of this discussion. “Wood” is composed of moisture, leaves and stem (and in some cases bark, trunk and root). Keep in mind that combustion does NOT mean burn.. combustion means creating noxious gasses, such as CO and CO2, through a chemical reaction. These noxious gasses do not naturally occur in the plant, are not intended by nature, and generally are harmful to the body. The Herbalizer will never exceed the threshold of combustion – 451 F – so you get all of the good stuff with none of the bad stuff, guaranteed.
carbon dioxide toxicity in the body

This write-up explaining the Phases of Combustion is the best I’ve seen on combustion (go to section WHY AND HOW WOOD BURNS). Herbalizer testing leads to the same conclusions as are drawn in that write-up.

Using the temperature stability of the Herbalizer, I’ve run the fan for 6 minutes with a setpoint just above the threshold of combustion at 460 F (production units are limited to 445 F) across “wood” and then evaluated the ABV under a microscope. With its true temperature stability and long duration, the moisture is completely extracted, and combustion occurs. With postmortem visual inspection at 30x magnification, I consistently find carbon as indicated by blackened remnants – (black) carbon is the visual combustion indicator."

 

[Aimless Ryan]

You know what I'd really like for my AroMed right now? A conical piece of glass with a bottom diameter 4 mm smaller than the inside diameter of the herb holder, and with a height of about 3/4". To place in the herb holder.

Does this make any sense?

 

[Aimless Ryan]

Any ideas on what I might be able to use to raise the screen maybe half an inch?

 

[Aimless Ryan]

I'm beginning to believe the bottom of the AroMed herb holder, above the stem, should be shaped like a V (which becomes vertical above the top of the V shape), rather than a U. I'm seeing clear evidence that the only herb that actually receives enough heat to vaporize is the herb located directly above the stem, where the hole is. That's also what I would expect to see, with the shape of the herb holder as it is.

I'm not an expert with this kind of thing, nor am I much more than a beginner, but this makes sense to me. Hot air simply does not reach most of the herb in the herb holder. There is no true convection in this thing. Rather, the air simply goes straight down and becomes narrower, like a V, because it has no choice. The swirls of vapor you might see are caused by air that hits the edges of the top of the stem, then redirects upward because it has nowhere else to go, as well as no resistance from hot air coming down from the lightbulb (because all that hot air coming from the lightbulb follows a path through the center of the herb holder).

I've been trying to figure out how to make some kind of makeshift V shape at the bottom of my herb holder, and I've also been trying to figure out how I can get the screen maybe half an inch higher, but I haven't figured either of these things out yet.

 

[luchiano]

@Aimless Ryan I just tried something that may help you improve your experience with the Aromed. You want to heat up the Aromed to around 445f, and when its time to start your session, just inhale for three to four seconds, no more then that. Right after that, lower the temperature to 397-401f, and start to inhale as usual(10 seconds, with dot blinking). Raise the temperature until you get to around 441f.

I think what is happening is when you start at such a high temperature, you decraboxylate your herb, as well as have the air hot enough to heat up the temperature of the herb to be close to your vaporizing temperature, allowing a quick release of the actives we want from the herb.

I love this technique.

As far as the the hot air, the Aromed is a true convection vaporizer, because it doesn't heat up something to conduct energy to create heat, and the herb being in direct contact with the heated up thermal conductor. Conduction vaporizers do this. The Aromed just relies on hot air to extract substances. That means a true convection vaporizer.

If you look at the glass piece where the hot air exists, you will see three holes in a triangle shape. This allows the hot air to be concentrated at certain points on the herb. Once this concentrated hot air has hit the herb, the herb itself heats up, and the heat spreads continuously, as long as you keep inhaling. The circulation of the air you see is just the cool parts between the streams of hot air coming from the glass piece, cooling down the vapor as it expands from the section with the hot-air. This is why you only see the swirl more when you stop inhaling, the air is much cooler, allowing more cooling to happen to the vapor, and that creates visible vapor.

Anyway, try out the technique, I think you might like it. @lazylathe , you should try it also.

Remember, all of this is allegedly happening

 

[Aimless Ryan]

I'll give that a try, @luchiano. I try a new technique pretty much every time I reload, but I'll definitely try what you shared.

One frustrating thing is that it seems like I just don't get high anymore. This has nothing to do with vaporizing or my vaporizer; this has been going on for a long time already. However, when I used the AroMed for the first time, I felt fairly relaxed and I felt like my muscles were much looser than they have been in years. It was what felt like profound relief, but I haven't felt it since then. (I have been taking fish oil supplements for at least a few months now, in an effort to get more omega-3.)

I have now tried using as much as 0.5 g in one bowl, then subsequently decided to try very small loads again (0.05-0.1 g). As a result, I'm thinking I don't really like tiny loads. I feel like when I use tiny loads, the herb is too far away from the light for the herb to ever reach the temperature I prefer. The reason why I say this is because such herb never seems to darken.

Seems like 0.25-0.35 g may be becoming my comfort zone. When I used 0.5 g, I liked that the top of my load was closer to the light, but I don't think I preferred the overall experience with 0.5 g. Still hope I can figure out a way to raise the screen and keep it in place with herbs on top of it. I still would like to try the makeshift funnel thing, too. (One way I could do this is by mixing up some flour and water to make a pretty stiff dough, then place the dough in the herb holder, shape it, and allow it to set overnight.)

I believe I have concluded that it is infinitely easier to use the AroMed with the water filter and herb holder beside the machine, rather than strapping the water filter to the back; excluding the issue created by the whip being attached to the water filter, with the water filter not being secure. I have knocked over the water filter quite a few times when it has not been holding the herb holder (usually when I'm evacuating ABV from the herb holder), but I still find it much easier to use the machine this way.

Also, I decided to order an Arizer Air a couple days ago. Puffitup had an excellent deal on the Air (and may still, in case anyone's interested). It will be nice to have something to compare each of these vaporizers to, even though I know these two vaporizers serve very different purposes. I think it will also be interesting having both an extremely popular vaporizer as well as an extremely unpopular (but highly touted) vaporizer. (The Air thread currently has 248 pages, even though it has only existed since last November.) At first I think I ordered the Air mostly because it was such a great deal and to have a backup in case I screw up the AroMed, but it turns out that having a portable vaporizer may be very necessary for me (even though I almost never go anywhere), as I will be able to use it from the couch, which is where I spend most of my time because it's very difficult and painful for me to do anything else.

I took a couple hits from a pipe last night because I wanted to try to get my body relaxed, which it hasn't been since the first day I owned the AroMed (and years before that). Jesus Christ, it tasted so nasty. At least last night, fresh smoked weed tasted like ABV.

EDIT: I accidentally figured out a way to raise my screen securely. When I was tapping out the ABV, The screen came out. I decided to flatten the screen a little bit, and when I put it back in I realized I could probably get it to stay in a higher position than normal. Result below.

EDIT 2: That's about 0.12 g. Pardon my crooked picture; I had to take the picture from on my feet, which doesn't work very well.

 

[lazylathe]

With all this Aromed talk going on, I had to fire my old girl up!!

My method of use is slightly different as well.
I am using a fine Volcano screen at the moment and it keeps everything so much cleaner.
The Volcano screen is slightly too big so I just bent the edges up so it it a shallow basket screen.
The lip is about 2mm high and I can use it either way up, lip down means the herb is closer to the light.

I have also taken to gently holding the plastic part that houses the light.
Find it is quite comfortable for me.
While holding the light I also block off the rear air hole anD slow my draw down for some denser hits!!

Kosher Kush just covering the screen, lost count after 10, had to take a break for a few and then finish it off.
All at the same temp and the ABV was a light brown.

She may look like the ugly duckling sitting amongst all my other vapes but she hits hard and always satisfies!!

Going to have to get this vape back into the rotation and not just the odd use!

 

[biohacker]

This is a top tier vape and only 24 pages since 2009? I don't get it, this is kind of a Herbalizer/Herborizer hybrid, and yet it's so underrated? Fast heatup, digital precision, clean path, easy to use with any 18mm water tool i'd say? What is the efficiency like?

 

[lazylathe]

It can be efficient but works better with a decent load.
I usually have about 2 to 3 mm of herb that is medium ground and fluffy.
That can last for 30 minutes if it is good quality herb.

Still don't want to try it?? LOL!

 

[biohacker]

Maybe next time during another epic vape-off! I need to get my consumption and tolerance way down!

 

[Aimless Ryan]

Here's what I learned yesterday after positioning the screen about half an inch above its normal position in the herb holder: 1) I am pretty sure I prefer the screen to be located considerably higher than the bottom of the herb holder; 2) I was apparently very lucky to get the screen in the position pictured above on my first try; 3) If you are interested in trying what I did with the screen, and you get your screen in a position you like, don't touch it. Rather than stirring your herbs, shake the herb holder when you need to stir.

Considering I have 500 pipe screens I'm never going to use, this is what I intend to try next time I empty the herb holder: I'm going to take about a 1/2" stack of screens and put them into the herb holder, then place the AroMed's screen above the stack of pipe screens.

Can't wait to try the Arizer Air that's currently somewhere between here and Reno. (The Air is still priced phenomenally at puffitup. No idea when this sale ends.)

EDIT: The screen-stacking trick seems to work. I estimate it took 50-75 pipe screens to lift the AroMed's screen to the level I think I prefer (the upper half of the "c" in "magic" on the herb holder). Have kept my average load at about 0.1 g so far (2 loads), but I think I could easily work with at least 0.2 g.

 

[Aimless Ryan]

My Arizer Air (from puffitup) showed up today at around 10:30 am EST! Haven't used it yet. Will probably be a few hours.

Some more thoughts about the AroMed:

• Seems like they could include at least one extra screen with new AroMeds, if not five or ten screens. Five screens would cost, what, three cents? (The Air came with what looks like about 10 screens. I don't even know what these screens are for yet.)
• Maybe include one additional lightbulb, to have as a back-up. I recently ordered two lightbulbs from Amazon (which I will probably never need), but it's going to take weeks for them to arrive, I think.
• And include some tools, like something to stir the herbs.
• I really feel like there needs to be some designed way to move the herbs either closer or farther from the light. The more I use it, the more I feel like I would prefer to let my herbs sit about half an inch closer to the light. Or at the very least, have the option.

Some little things like that could make a huge difference in the level of enjoyment people receive from this toy, without really increasing the production cost. And if they included things like a back-up halogen lightbulb, all they'd have to do to recover the cost is raise the price $5.

While waiting for my new Air to become usable, I'm working on a 0.2 g load in the AroMed, starting at 300°F and slowly working my way up.

 

[luchiano]

@Aimless Ryan That would be nice, but I guess most of their energy is towards the machine, and making sure its built properly. They are a small company, I think with just 2-3 people running it, so doing all that other stuff would make the work more harder, and may take away from building quality products, because now they have to worry about nonessential things, instead of just focusing on the Aromed.

As far as getting closer to the light, I think you just like high temperature vaping. From what they told me, every 1cm you move closer to the bulb, the temperature rises 10c. They built the machine to give an exact temperature at the screen, if they allowed people to raise the screen, no one would really know what temperature they are vaping their herbs at. Again this machine was built as a medical device, somit had to be exact in temperature to get the actives to boil off with no degradation. You need exact temperatures to do that.

Anyway, have fun.

 

[Aimless Ryan]

You keep saying that, but I keep seeing a small circle of dark herbs directly above the herb holder's stem, surrounded by a circle of greenish herbs. Every single load. There may be something that measures the temperature at some specific spot near the screen, but it obviously does not measure the temperature of the whole screen area, as there is not one single temperature of air occupying that space. Which means there is no single temperature that means anything more than any other single temperature at any specific point inside the herb holder. There are probably hundreds of different temperatures within less than a centimeter of the screen.

If you load 0.1 g into the herb holder at 420°, or if you load 0.4 g into the herb holder at 420°, which one would you say is actually at 420°? Most of the herb in the bigger load is located in a space with a much higher temperature than all of the herb in the smaller load. So which one's at 420°? Remember, neither one of these loads is located exactly where the screen is.

And if the sensor measures anything above the temperature of combustion, which it does (according to the temperature display), but you don't get combustion, even when you stack your herbs 2 cm above the screen (or 2 cm closer to the heat source), then that provides even more evidence that these temperature expressions are nothing more than guesses.

It does not add up. This is what science is for. The very first step of the scientific process has told me very clearly that there is not one single temperature of the herb holder, or even one temperature in one small area of the herb holder. If I had seen a dark circle surrounded by light circle once, that wouldn't tell me much of anything. But I have seen it over and over. Every time. That does tell me something.

Does weed science have different rules than science science?