Advanced THC e-Juice / mods / tanks / coils / builds / recipes

[Filhote]

What's going on here.... wow

@Accept the Trinity V3tronix works perfect but my concentrate is from marocan hash and very dark. The result is, the glass looks horrible

For me, tanks don't work really well. There's so many points for errors... basically and rda with an dual coil is a stable setup. Actually I go back to the roots and try a kanthal Clapton wire as a dual build on 3mm with 5 wraps...with 70 watts and 0.24 ohms.
My new learning is about the crazy build coils like caterpillar track or alien wire....the slow ramp up time it good for concentrate juice

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

Yeah, I agree that the resistance is odd, what is stranger is that by disconnecting and reconnecting the tank I got different readings! It now varies between 1.1 and 1.12. I have the correct coil selected on the mod, so I dunno what gives the coil is supposed to be 1 ohm, with wattage range up to 25W. I'll try lowering the power but if it's in TC mode would that really even matter?

After the leakage and loss, I've cleaned up the tank as much as I can, unfortunately I get sputtering into my mouth if I take three consecutive pulls (about 3 seconds each). The liquid is HOT and I've burned my lips and tongue already.

Have you tried a different coil from the pack, just to check the resistance? If this is a dual coil build but only one coil is making contact, the resistance will double. Wattage does matter because of heat flux. The higher the wattage, the higher the heat flux and warmer the vape. The liquid shouldn't be that hot.

Sputtering is very common. If lowering the wattage doesn't help, you can try waiting for a pop before inhaling or using a longer drip tip.

 

[zor]

Have you tried a different coil from the pack, just to check the resistance? If this is a dual coil build but only one coil is making contact, the resistance will double. Wattage does matter because of heat flux. The higher the wattage, the higher the heat flux and warmer the vape. The liquid shouldn't be that hot.

Sputtering is very common. If lowering the wattage doesn't help, you can try waiting for a pop before inhaling or using a longer drip tip.

Heh, it's not just sputtering but gurgling. Really gross, I'm getting big spurts of ejuice, blech

I've tried the other 0.5ohm atomizer and it is shown as 0.54. This shit is either not precise or the ejuice is directly.affecting the resistance, which doesn't make sense to me.

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

If these are coils are from the same pack, one is giving 0.54 and the other, 1.1, then the 1.1 is probably faulty.

As @Vape Donkey 650 says, both the coil and box mod need to be cold to get the most accurate reading. Resistance rises with temp.

 

[zor]

Sorry I wasn't clear, one was 1.0ohm, the other 0.5. Both stainless steel, I forget what the third one is but I know it's different

 

[zor]

Shatter with puffmajic is not viscous enough I guess, I can't stop the sputtering. I went to a vape shop and got some randomass vanilla 0mg ejuice. Added it, heated and mixed it a bit, there's definitely some separation but it eliminates the spitting and sputtering from what I can tell. Next I'm gonna try dissolving shatter straight into the flavor shit just to see if it works any better. Adding VG to PM makes it precipitate in a very unsightly way. Should I try Of instead?

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Hi everyone, I've been reading this post for the last few months and the amount of work put in by so many, over such a long period of time is amazing. VapeDonkey you sir are the man, your extensive and informative post have helped me and I'm sure many others. If you ever have some time, you should make a video of your custom coil/atty.
I have finally made a batch from some wax I got at the dispensary near me. I picked up 1 gram of wax, Green Crack 76% THC. I used Wax Liquidizer, just the plain version, no flavor added. I have read it had a nasty chemical taste in various corners of the internet. So I was kind of skeptical and just bought 15ml online. I followed the standard recipe on the bottle, which was 1g of concentrate to 2ml of Wax liquidizer and I used the double boil method in this tiny little beaker. It melted down easily and I mixed it around until it was clear. I ended up with about 3ml of juice altogether.
I have the Pico Istick, I have used this for vaping regular ejuice over the last year. I love this little mod, it packs a punch. The Melo 3 was a good tank, but that shit leaked on me multiple times when I got it. I got a few other tanks, but I picked up the Smok Baby Beast a few months ago, and this tank is awesome. Vapor production is great, flavor is really good, and it doesn't leak. They have like 6 different coils you can buy for this tank, including a RBA. I ordered the RBA, to see it will work with some thc juice.
Anyways I put in about .6ml in the baby beast, and let it soak for a minute, The coil in the Babybeast is .4ohms and hits good normally at about 42 watts for me, I took a small pull and noticed immediate that the smoke was way thicker than any vape I have ever tried. And it tasted like some good ganja. I took a big pull the second time and just love how thick and smooth the vapor is, and its potent. One more pull and I was on the moon.

Thanks for your post, welcome to FC! If your juice started as clear when you first loaded the tank, and had that slight darkening by the time it's almost empty, that looks perfectly reasonable and normal to me. My 2ml tanks with co2 oil start lighter and darken over the course of a few grams vaped not much differently than yours.

I'm happy to hear that your smok baby beast tank (top filling, bottom air?) hasn't been leaking on you, but I must ask: how long does it take you to vape a full tank down to empty? Just a few days, or weeks or months? I see the melo was leaking on you, just like for me. But the MELO tank leaked out pretty slowly on me, it would take over a month to leak down, with some useage. If you use it more heavily than I did and could vape a full tank down to empty in a few days, you could avoid this issue?

42W???!!!

Whoa! I think my DT v3 is maybe .7ohms, and I find 23-24W plenty!
(on a eVic VTwin Mini)

For a 0.4 ohm coil, 42w sounds about right. I just hope he's using TC!

Hello all I'm interested in making my own juice to have a portable stealth way to medicate while on the go. After research I've decided on this vtc mini kit:

http://www.myvaporstore.com/Joye-eVic-Basic-Starter-Kit-p/joye-vtn30.htm?1=1&CartID=1

And adding some ni200 coils to to with it. For juice it seems the holy terp pure is getting solid reviews.

Is this a good starter kit to go with? If anyone has input please advise. Thanks!

Thats the evic basic, not the vtc, but either one is a fine choice for a temp control mod, and the kit with the cubis pro mini tank I would highly recommend as being leak-resistant. I also bought my first evic basic from MVS, they're legit

For the juice and mixing and the coils, I don't have much to offer you for help, but at least your mod and tank are a good start.

Urgh

I'm fucking pissed.

Packed my half filled tank in my carry-on, arrived in CA last night and found that 90% of the god damn tank leaked. I'm glad I had the foresight to put it in a zip lock, I'm guessing the pressurization in the cabin fucked this up

FUCK.


I will reply to the responses to my previous post soon, I'm too mad to do so now.

D'oh! Since I motivated you to try out the cubis tank, I can't help but feel partially responsible for this little tragedy (just a small part )

I know people do take tank vapes on flights often, and their juice must not always be leaking out on them? Are they flying with empty tanks? The changes in air pressure most likely is the cause of your leak out.

If I ever did take my cubis pro mini tanks on a flight, I think I would fly empty, and load at my destination, especially after reading this. But I have 1 more thought on this flying leakage:

you have the original CUBIS atomizer, with no adjustable air throttle on the top. An ebay seller sent one of these to me on accident when I ordered the cubis pro mini. Although I did not use it before I sent it back, I took it apart and examined it, and dry hit it. The airway is much more restrictive compared to the pro / mini. Maybe if you had the cubis pro, with air throttles wide open, the change in air pressure would not have forced as much juice and oil out of the tank, since the tank has more air ventilation. It would probably leak some, but less?

Or maybe the CUBIS pro would leak just as much on a plane? IDK just speculating....


but...

ENOUGH is ENOUGH! I have had it with these mother fucking VAPES on this mother fucking PLANE!

Yeah, I agree that the resistance is odd, what is stranger is that by disconnecting and reconnecting the tank I got different readings! It now varies between 1.1 and 1.12. I have the correct coil selected on the mod, so I dunno what gives the coil is supposed to be 1 ohm, with wattage range up to 25W. I'll try lowering the power but if it's in TC mode would that really even matter?

After the leakage and loss, I've cleaned up the tank as much as I can, unfortunately I get sputtering into my mouth if I take three consecutive pulls (about 3 seconds each). The liquid is HOT and I've burned my lips and tongue already.

This is the same problem I have dealt with before, I'm getting fed up again. What is the core difference between this and ejuice which doesn't sputter, is it viscosity? I might just go get a 0mg nic ejuice and try adding that, but if I have vegetable glycerin, PG, and PEG would anyone here recommending adding one or more of those to my tank to alleviate the sputtering problem?

Edit: I also see the word "Protected" pop up on the LCD when I hold the button down for 1+second....

So you've tried using the 1.0 and 0.5 ohm coils, and you're seeing readings a little higher than that? With your chunky, viscous thc juice with wax and solvents mixed together, I think this mixture is most likely blocking or partially blocking contact between the bottom of the coil and the positive 510 pin on the bottom of the tank.

Glycerin is somewhat conductive to electrical flow, from my experiences, while cannabis oil is not conductive at all.

The mod measuring the coil resistance off because of the juice can be causing it to "hit protection" too quickly because it thinks the coil is reaching it's target temperature too quickly when it really isn't. the coil resistance not being measured accurately can really throw TC operation off quite easily.

Heh, it's not just sputtering but gurgling. Really gross, I'm getting big spurts of ejuice, blech

I've tried the other 0.5ohm atomizer and it is shown as 0.54. This shit is either not precise or the ejuice is directly.affecting the resistance, which doesn't make sense to me.

Yea, the juice affecting the resistance, that's my thoughts.

Here's another problem with the original CUBIS (not pro or mini) atomizer and using thc juice:

the coil head is mounted directly into drip tip / mouth piece assembly, and screwed into the tank as 1 large piece. And the only way to fill the tank is to remove the MP / coil. (no juice filling slots like the pro / mini)

Therefore, whenever you fill the CUBIS tank, you are necessarily filling the bottom with juice, blocking the contact.

With the PRO and mini CUBIS, you can have the coil firmly installed in the tank making good dry contact with the positive 510 pin on the floor while you fill juice / oil, from the slots. You can't do this with the og CUBIS.

With this design flaw, and the lack of an adjustable air flow, maybe you should get with the cubis pro? (hint wink)

As for the sputtering and spitting, I get that with my co2 oil tanks, but to a minimal, tolerable degree. I think if you could adjust your intake air flow, it would help with the spitting? But getting your juice mix to have a lower, more consistent viscosity will help alot with that, also.

 

[fernand]

Wow guys, y'all been busy in the tanks dept. Just one observation. It used to be that e-cig technology didn't apply very well to erl & waks. Because water-soluble e-liquids wick quite well, and erl don't. So what it came down to was pulsing to preheat at a low temp before trying to vape. If the coil got hot before there was enough stuff wicking ... welcome to the lovely taste and smell of road-kill on your tires. And unless you LIKE that taste, you had to toss or rebuild. More oil to waste.

With all this trial and error vaping with tanks, everything is possible as long as you don't burn the erl. So the most important innovation in vaping in years is Temp Control. With a correctly set up rig, it will never overheat. Even the weakest wicking situation is then no worse than weak vapor.

I respect the wattage school of cloud chasing, real men with strong thumb muscles who can pulse them coils to within a few degrees of wreckage. But for everyone else, and especially newcomers, on any mod & head combo, get your temp control working FIRST. Make sure you can keep that button down all day long and not crack the donuts, never overheat. Then you can work with all the tanking options, the wicking, the whole range of new marvelous gizmos.

 

[zor]

I'm due for another trip in a week and have growing anxiety so I revisited my cubis tank...The glass is cracked! I'm not sure when this happened or why I only noticed it now, so I wonder if that was the original source of my leak, and if having a crack can promote more sputtering?

Either way, I need a new tank. @Vape Donkey 650 , why does the dry contact matter in the pro/mini vs the of cubis? The thcjuice has to wick into the atomizer somehow, so isn't the opportunity for flooding the same?

I messed around with some shatter and 0mg nic ejuice. It didn't mix well, even with added heat, so I added some more PG and that kept the shatter in solution. It is way too dilute now but I can vape it quite well in an o.pen cart so I think it'll be a good candidate for the pro/mini tank!

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

@zor, good question on the dry contact with the regular cubis tanks. (sorry for the delay) It matters equally on all the cubises, but the way you can fill the tanks makes the key difference.

This is a cubis mini opened up, you can see the circle, metal, positive 510 pin in the middle of the floor of the tank. Around that circle is the silicon grommet which separates the positive flow from the negative current returning to the negative side of the battery through the 510 threads on the tank / mod.

The coil (not in pic) screws to the top portion, and that whole coil/air intake top part screws into the bottom tank part. The bottom of the coil head must make firm contact with the positive 510 pin on the tank floor, or the coil resistance will read high or it wont read your coil at all.

If this floor is coated with thick oil, your mod will struggle to read the coil. You may have to scrape the 510 pin clean with a tool to give it good contact with the coil head.

This isnt a problem when starting with a fresh clean cubis pro/mini, because you can screw in the coil first on an empty tank, confirm a good resistance, then fill the tank through the fill slots on the top, without having to remove the coil head and ensuring that contact with the positive pin stays dry.

I dont think you can do this with the og cubis, because it lacks juice filling slots on top air intake part where the coil head screws in. Instead, you must unscrew the coil/air intake top to access the tank, fill it up, then reinsert the top assembly into the pool of juice/oil. This necessarily means your positive 510 pins are wet which obstructs good contact.

With the og cubis tank, this would seem like an obvious flaw, but keep in mind: we are using this gear with a different purpose in mind.

IME, it seems that normal pg/vg nic juices are conductive to electrical flow, or does not act as an insulator at least, perhaps bc of its much lighter viscosity, it can get 'squeezed' out of the way by the 2 metal surfaces touching.

Heavy cannabinoid oils like co2 oil clearly act as an insulator, blocking flow and good contact between metal conductors.

It seems like your bho mixed with pg and nic juice can still have a slightly chunky, thick consistency, not as thick and insulating as uncut co2 oil, but certainly thicker than regular juice.

I think this is what caused the faulty ohms reading in your last cubis attempt.

I hope this makes sense, and if my understanding of how the og cubis tank is assembled and filled is correct, it will be very hard to get a proper contact / ohm reading with any thc juice, while this is not a problem on the pro/mini.

For your next cubis coil, for a pre-made coil, id recommend the SS notch coils, 0.25 ohm for TC. Most importantly, it has the largest holes for wicking on the sides of the coil to make sure your cotton gets wet and stays that way. The meager wicking holes and slots on the other coils can be problematic, the thicker your juice is. The notch also has the biggest heater coil for bigger clouds, presumably.


As for the last leaks, id think the tank being cracked would help it leak! Are you sure the glass was cracked before the flight, or was the result of the air pressure changes? I don't think that matters much for the spitting, i think that may have more to do with the thickness of your juice and the fixed airflow on the tank.

Just an idea for the next 'tanks on a plane' attempt; if you do try to fly with it filled: use tape to cover up and seal the air intake holes and the top of the mouthpiece. Leaking through the bottom of the tank through he metal pin and silicon grommet seems unlikely. If you can hermetically seal the tank well enough, it should not leak. Flying with any other typical bottom air feeding tank that is filled and not sealed seems like a sure bet for leakage, by contrast.

However, flying with a dry tank and filling at your destination seems like a safer bet, if you can travel with some little vials or squeeze bottles with your pre-prepared thc juice. (Hope those wont leak or separate in the bottle!)

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

Build porn. Simple dual coil build on Achilles. AVG in front, canna in back. Too much chlorophyll - gunks up coil quickly.

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Cool, bringing this thread back to its earthy, natty roots there, @Accept

Too much chlorophyll (or glycerides, and other undesirable 'plant gunk') in your oil...

With an rda coil and cotton wick, how do you deal with the gunk?

Do you just take it, and keep on vaping and re-dripping over the gunk until its too much, and re-wick?

Or you just re-wick frequently?

You cant "burn clean" the way you could with a ceramic heater or wick, just curious what you do about that...

With layg donuts, i just keep vaping until the clouds taper off, then i scrape the reclaim off the donut with a flat edged dab tool at 200F a couple times, i could remove like 90% of the gunk this way.




Made a few more donut coils for some FC friends last week and they're all on their way by now, hopefully they all find their way and get installed properly and safely with no hassles (hand built press fit 510 pins have room for error )

coil head casings drilled out and ready for assembly, with the default guts removed. you can see the big notch coils on the top of the pic. I wish these hearty cylinders were made of ceramic rather than SS

parts ready for assembly, the top donut with the longer wires at the left, the bottom donut with the short cut wires to the right of that. the 2 wires for the top donut have to pass through the middle of the bottom donut and bend to get positioned in its permanent place on either side of that silicon grommet for the positive 510 pin.

It's my goal to get both donuts sitting as flat and level and low to the bottom as possible, to make an even heat zone for vaping, and to assist getting the last drops of oil on the bottom of a tank all vaped up, when not constantly refilling. sometimes the act of pushing in the silicon grommet and then the metal pin can push the donuts up a little further, or make one or both tilted. Tough to position such small objects in a really small space

ceramic tweezers help alot to hold the donuts in place during assembly. i also use a generic dab tool to hold the donuts in place while positioning the wires and pushing in the grommet and pin. ohms checked in good (low 0.3x) so it's time to wick'it wicked

done

and done! this is the top portion of the coil which screws into the top airflow assembly of the cubis tank, little loop o'wick on top



Also got some experimental donut coils coming up later this week or so, ill keep you guys posted.

Wow! I made a post under 10,000 characters! Lucky you, readers. I'll credit my crappy smart phone and lack of keyboard for that relative brevity, for now.

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

Do you just take it, and keep on vaping and re-dripping over the gunk until its too much, and re-wick?

Or you just re-wick frequently?

You cant "burn clean" the way you could with a ceramic heater or wick, just curious what you do about that...

Don't know why this prep has so much chlorophyll. Had to rebuild and re-wick frequently. Also, rotate coils. (Just suck the juice out of used wicks, effects are fine. NEVER WITH NIC JUICE!).

New prep is as expected. Dabbing pull-and-snap instead of e-juice. Can't get a flavorful dab. Frustrating.

 

[Filhote]

New dripper with two separate juice well. The goon lp on the incubus mech mod.
It's a 22ga stainless steel 304 coil with .13 ohm. It hits very powerful

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Reposted from the Divine Tribe atty's thread, if that's ok, because some of you guys may not browse that esoteric thread, but it's become relevant to tank interests, now:

My friend @divinetribe just posted this up on his youtube, a nice, vapey demonstration of one of my artisanal, "Vape Donkey" dual ceramic donut coil heads for the CUBIS series of RTAs. This vape system has been working great for me with co2 oils on temp control mods for a few months already. Matt is taking this to the next level filling his tank with a very runny HTFSCE. With such rich input materials, not surprisingly, he's told me the flavor experience is amazing. But it is good to know my coils are handling such terpy oils with great effectiveness! It looks like on this demo, he's dialed it into VW mode, around 29w, for old-school cloudyness!

This is a vid of that runny HTFSCE he poured in there.

We are going to try to come up with a good, mass-producable design for a top-airflow, leak resistant RTA optimized for thick cannabis oils like co2, htfsce, distillates, and DIY wax solutions also. Those of us who demand high-quality vapor feel very let down by the crappy little tanks that the market wants us to vape cannabis fluids on, and existing sub-ohm RTA gear is often not well suited to the thick type of fluids we want to vape. I can't hand-build these for everyone, so I hope we can come up with a good tank and coil head design so everyone can enjoy such richness in a tank!

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

So cool - love to try one! What is HTFSCE?

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

DT is tentatively shooting for 4/2017 to get some prototypes made for testing. Realistically, production timelines for vape gear from china are necessarily behind schedule, so I'm not holding my breath

@Accept, you seem like a pretty handy vaper that knows his way around a coil head and a 510 pin, I bet you wouldn't have too much trouble throwing one of these things together if you wanted. I've posted tomes about it now I don't think I've held back any tips or steps on my work by now.

The hole drilling and wire lead positioning is the toughest (most time consuming?) part. And you have to source the parts from maybe 2 or 3 places. Maybe you can get a cubis pro mini, generic 0.8 ohm ceramic donuts, and organic cotton from the same chinese e-tailer? But I wouldn't get the last 2 parts from alibaba.... random ceramic heaters from cheap online sellers can be un-reliable.

Or you can just be patient and wait for the factory in shenzhen to pump this out... (hope it does eventually) Maybe I can send you a used, cleaned coil head later on, after I vape down one of my current tanks and swap coils..I've been wanting to try the 1.5 ohm donuts.



HTFSCE is high terpene full spectrum cannabis extract...more commonly known as "live resin" live nectar, etc.

It's not always fluid and runny the way DT has it there, usually takes more of a thick, oily, viscous, sugary wax form that can still flow across a jar at room temperature...slowly. That's why I'm still trying to figure out that stuff in the video above, it flows nicely.

BTW, HTFSCE or live resin is a type of BHO extracted from freshly harvested, flash-frozen whole plants, rather than dried and cured flowers. The drying and curing process that is necessary for properly smoking or vaping flowers actually allows most of the terpenoids in fresh plants to evaporate away so we can't capture them in our concentrates. The extraction process with live resin is also fine-tuned to retain as much terpenes in the final product as possible, versus common extraction and purging practices before live resin. It reduces yields, so it naturally costs more as well.

Anyways, it's a fairly new thing, only around the past 4-5 years or so, and many consider it the finest quality, most desirable concentrate. There's plenty of good articles on leafly, medical jane, other websites that can tell you much more; it's mentioned occasionally around here.

Being able to reliably put this stuff in a tank has been like the quest for the holy grail for some, and putting PEG or other stuff into such a lovely oil is like pouring RC cola into the finest whiskey or cognac, IMO, (i see those "live resin" tanks in the club actually ) so that's why I've been going through all this trouble to adapt the cubis tanks for thicker oils. These donut coil heads were originally made with co2 in mind, but are proving versatile. I think they'll work great with many of these solvent mix products as well too.

anyways.. ramble ramble . . .maybe the vape donkey coils will deserve their own thread later on, not yet. Carry on fellas. Tanks. Coils. Juice.

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

@Accept, you seem like a pretty handy vaper that knows his way around a coil head and a 510 pin, I bet you wouldn't have too much trouble throwing one of these things together if you wanted.

Thanks - travels down this road led to Hercules. Seems to achieve a similar goal, albeit with titanium so it probably doesn't taste as good. Works well, but too anxious about loading a gram of concentrate into a cartridge. (Even more precious when the process begins with a seed.) Content with a few drops of juice for on-the-go and dabs at home.

BTW, HTFSCE or live resin is a type of BHO extracted from freshly harvested, flash-frozen whole plants, rather than dried and cured flowers. The drying and curing process that is necessary for properly smoking or vaping flowers actually allows most of the terpenoids in fresh plants to evaporate away so we can't capture them in our concentrates.

Makes sense. Typically freeze-dry rather than cure which should produce similar results with QWET. Almost too flavorful. Still, don't know why live resin is thin. Freeze-dried QWET purges to pull-and-snap.

 

[divinetribe]

hey HTFSE is High Terpene Full Spectrum Extract. this is where i get my info

here are some nice pics of it

 

[Tokin_Jbyrd]

First, awesome forum, thanks for everyone's contribution! I have been looking for some informotion about all of this for a while, and can't wait to share my upcoming experiences with everyone. I actually have some wax liquidizer on the way and have been reading everything on here, as well as looking at reviews on YouTube for all the mentioned RTA's. I have gone through a bunch of pre-filled cartridges from all brands and can't wait to up the game into some RTAs or RDAs. After looking around, I wanted to know if anyone has ever used the Merlin mini? It looks like it would be awesome for this application. It just comes with so many options, including the adjustment screw for mouth-to-lung hits, plus I feel it would even lessen the chance for leakage. Just wanted to join the conversation and see if anyone has had any experience with this RTA? Thanks!

Here is a great review:

 

[Tokin_Jbyrd]

Deleted.
Sorry for the double post.

 

[Tokin_Jbyrd]

Edit/update:
So I ended up ordering a nice little starter kit in order to get me started down this rabbit hole. After reading some good things about the Mello 3, I decided on the iStick Pico. Seemed like a great little mod to start with, and it came with the Mello 3. I also have been debating on what RTA to start with... above I asked if anyone had any experience with the Merlin mini, however, I want to add to that question and include the Goblin mini v3 and the EXO by iJoy. I ended up getting the Goblin mini v3 mainly because it is 22mm tank. I plan on building some SS Clapton coils for it and want to aim for between 1.0 - 1.5ohm to be used with TC. I also want to compare these to regular coils to see if they are better or not, as well as compare to any sub ohm coils of various material.
If anyone has any pointers/experience to share with me in regards to the Goblin mini v3 and or building coils for thc liquid; I would be grateful.
Just to be clear, I plan on starting with the wax liquidizer product first before working my way into other diy e-weed recipes.
I look forward to sharing my experiences with the group!

 

[Bambu]

hello all,, another great thread,,
Im tryng to vape some juice infused rosin,,
im not in a legal state,, my friends bring some 510 cart, there great but get expensive, , so I been making rosin and attempting to vape it.
I have had decent results ,mixed with ej and wax liquid, , prefer ej....., but it takes alot of long pulls to get what I can in 2 pulls from my friends cart.,,, Im using a basic 20$ 510 pen,, his cart works great on mine. so its not the pen.. the rosin itself is strong and ive tried all kinds of ratios.. even conc./mix 1:.5... tho this make it even thicker and harder to pull..
some thoughts on the 2 matters would be great.
1. what I can do to get my mix to hit like my friends cartridge, , where am I going wrong?
2. a quality pen that can handle what im looking for.. which is nice pulls for rosin infused juice. please be as specific as possible.

 

[witka]

if i'm making Vg/PG in my magical butter, is there any reason to decarb the dry herb??? because of vaping i would think not.

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

I plan on building some SS Clapton coils for it and want to aim for between 1.0 - 1.5ohm to be used with TC. I also want to compare these to regular coils to see if they are better or not, as well as compare to any sub ohm coils of various material.

Aren't those coils going to be pretty big? Tried a cloud-chaser build once, wasn't impressed enough to repeat. Simple builds are likely to stay cleaner and are easier to clean thoroughly when they do gunk up. @Filhote may have more experience.

what I can do to get my mix to hit like my friends cartridge, , where am I going wrong?

Do you load your own cartridges for nic juice? Are you getting decent clouds? Further back in this thread, @randomtoker experimented with dilutions - basically, concluded more dilute is better, to a point. Didn't believe it, but get similar results. First really good canna juice hit was a big, wide open lung hit with dual coils on the Tsunami, one canna, the other just VG. With a cartridge, maybe separation won't matter so much?

if i'm making Vg/PG in my magical butter, is there any reason to decarb the dry herb??? because of vaping i would think not.

Shouldn't need to decarb for vaping. You can decarb afterward, if you want to use it as a tincture - 250F is way below VG/PG boiling point. IME, unimpressed with results from this method. Difficult (maybe impossible) to get high enough concentration for vaping. Also, picks up lots of chlorophyll in the long soak, and it's difficult (maybe impossible) to filter, even with vacuum assist. MB2e suggests 2oz material for prep - a big commitment. Still have 250mls of a PG extract made with it. Just keeping it for emergencies at this point.