3D printing some Vapor Related Equipment (Ascent? Others?)

[Delta3DStudios]

nice thread!

if i ever get through this phase of development i definitely want to try printing the cube body for my vape. the heat shield keeps the wood from getting above warm, so plastic should be okay. i can visualize a cube body in two parts that just snaps together. vape production time would be cut from an hour of milling the wood to just seconds: place the pcb and heat shield tube into the bottom half of the cube and snap on the top half. no fasteners, accurate dimensions. fun to contemplate.

Hey! FYI - There is a product called 'laywood' - which is basically 3d printed wood material - it comes in 3 color types - but it can be stained/sanded/drilled, etc. It's expensive and brittle to work with (before printing), but if you ever need someone to print those parts - let me know! I can help print prototypes (in wood or plastic).

I really think this is a great community, and I want to help provide a service since I know there are thousands of uses for a 3d printer for vape users. I plan on building up an inventory of 5-10 working 3D printers in my house, with a massive inventory of materials to handle any requests I get.

I invite anyone to PM me with requests - right now I need practice/motivation to keep playing/printing with my printers. I won't charge much more than the costs of material for printing your 3d models. And for a small fee I can assist in making the 3D models. 3D scanning services will also be available in the near future (have the scanner, don't have a computer powerful enough to handle the processing power!).

 

[grokit]

I've come up with an awesome design for a 2-piece glass spacer for the DV ascent. I'm going to mock it up in sketchup and upload to the Ascent thread. I think it would be awesome, if DV could make it, maybe the shapeways 3d printed glass would be sufficient for a prototype?

@mvapes has been pushing for a glass upper gong bowl for the herbalizer, I'm sure there are plenty of great projects like this! It sounds like we could do initial protos out of PLA for these type of projects at home, then send out for functional protos/limited runs with this 3d glass technology before actual manufacturing.

 

[nigel]

Wow! Bunch of great ideas rolling in here!

I'm really under the influence right now but my dream would be to have a bag system add on to ascent. Since back grill is open u can make like a cupping thing that covers it with some kinda air inducing thing on the other side. And the bag attachment on top. But again I'm in another dimension

Aquarium pump fast enough?

@nigel - See – and THIS is why I didn’t want to thread hijack the Ascent thread! Ha ha ha. The problem is I don’t know what I could make ‘vapor path’ approved. Personally, I don’t have any printers powerful enough for materials to withstand those temps (I can currently print at temps up to 260C – any hotter and the PEEK lining of my hotend would melt) – there are all metal hotends which can print at 300C+ – but I have no need for that yet

Which metals are considered vapor safe? Shapeways can print in Steel, Sterling Silver, Brass, and Bronze. I suspect Brass would be the *most* vapor safe – but I really don’t know (That was a big question I had for this thread what can be vapor safe). Shapeways can also print food-safe ceramic, but I don’t know if that’s safe to vape.

Keep in mind the origin of this thread was in a NON-vapor-path item (a stand). So there's plenty to do, outside of vapor-path accessories.

But you are right about anything that is we should figure out.

I looked briefly into Brass, and IIRC there is some concern about lead being used, but then I didn't pursue it.

 

[chester222]

No experience with aquarium pump, but slower the better - too fast and the temp will go down too much. Volcano speed of course would be ideal.

 

[nigel]

No experience with aquarium pump, but slower the better - too fast and the temp will go down too much. Volcano speed of course would be ideal.

Keep in mind thermal recover on this (or any) device.

I have achieved GREAT results on this device (the Ascent) from an almost non-stop slow sipping. I don't drop temp enough to have to wait for recovery. So as long as a bag can be filled, slow and steady wins the race.

Keep in mind it won't fill a bag like a Herbalizer, but then again, what (including the Volcano) will?

But I *LOVE* the whole homebrew image of a aquarium pump connected to a 3D printed intake, to a vape, to a bag. Fun!

 

[Delta3DStudios]

Keep in mind thermal recover on this (or any) device.

I have achieved GREAT results on this device (the Ascent) from an almost non-stop slow sipping. I don't drop temp enough to have to wait for recovery. So as long as a bag can be filled, slow and steady wins the race.

Keep in mind it won't fill a bag like a Herbalizer, but then again, what (including the Volcano) will?

But I *LOVE* the whole homebrew image of a aquarium pump connected to a 3D printed intake, to a vape, to a bag. Fun!

It's not hard to lower the voltage of a DC fan to lower the CFM of it. I'm sure I could make a 25x25mm fan run extremely slow - just enough to fill a bag gently. A variable speed fan would be possible, but it would be more expensive to produce. I'm looking at making a bag system for the ascent in the $100 range.

Can someone show me how the bag system would connect? I'm afraid I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to bags and how they would connect to the GONG (14mm? 18mm?) The fan/duct system should be easy for me to make when I get my machine up and running.

 

[grokit]

I'm not really into the balloons, but one way to fill them is the herbalaire. It runs on outlet power and uses an aquarium pump, I sold a like-new one recently for $80 with everything.

I have some doubts about the ascent performing as well since it runs on batteries. You would have to plug the pump into the wall anyways, so why not use a more powerful vape with it?

 

[Stu]

Hey! FYI - There is a product called 'laywood' - which is basically 3d printed wood material - it comes in 3 color types - but it can be stained/sanded/drilled, etc. It's expensive and brittle to work with (before printing), but if you ever need someone to print those parts - let me know! I can help print prototypes (in wood or plastic).

I really think this is a great community, and I want to help provide a service since I know there are thousands of uses for a 3d printer for vape users. I plan on building up an inventory of 5-10 working 3D printers in my house, with a massive inventory of materials to handle any requests I get.

I invite anyone to PM me with requests - right now I need practice/motivation to keep playing/printing with my printers. I won't charge much more than the costs of material for printing your 3d models. And for a small fee I can assist in making the 3D models. 3D scanning services will also be available in the near future (have the scanner, don't have a computer powerful enough to handle the processing power!).

@Ratchett Please be aware that you must get prior approval from @vtac before selling on FC.

I like the idea of 3D printing vapor accessories. If I had a 3D printer, that is probably all I would use it for. Well, that and frisbees.... I like frisbees.

 

[Delta3DStudios]

@Ratchett Please be aware that you must get prior approval from @vtac before selling on FC.

I like the idea of 3D printing vapor accessories. If I had a 3D printer, that is probably all I would use it for. Well, that and frisbees.... I like frisbees.

Thanks for that - Of course I will abide by all rules on the forum. I am still a ways off from selling any products, but it's fun to research and discuss materials. I still don't even know the best method for me to sell my models/prints - directly, or via a shapeways account. I will certainly contact @vtac personal when the time is right

I'm not really into the balloons, but one way to fill them is the herbalaire. It runs on outlet power and uses an aquarium pump, I sold a like-new one recently for $80 with everything.

I have some doubts about the ascent performing as well since it runs on batteries. You would have to plug the pump into the wall anyways, so why not use a more powerful vape with it?

I really think I could get away with a fully contained fan/duct unit with it's own AA batteries for juice to power the fan. The idea is portability ;-)

 

[chester222]

I made a homebrew bag with a ascent glass piece imbedded so u can just plug it into ur ascent.

Took abou 15 min. I'm sure there's better ideas

http://imgur.com/vTZns8y

 

[Delta3DStudios]

I made a homebrew bag with a ascent glass piece imbedded so u can just plug it into ur ascent.

Took abou 15 min. I'm sure there's better ideas

http://imgur.com/vTZns8y

I believe I did see that on the Ascent thread. Good idea, but If I offered a kit, I'd want it to adapt to a standard bag - What's the most common bag used for traditional systems? I could probably make a silicon (food safe) gasket seal to attach to the mouthpiece.

Isn't 3D printing wonderful - you can design and build what manufacturers never imagined their products could do.

 

[Hippie Dickie]

Isn't 3D printing wonderful - you can design and build what manufacturers never imagined their products could do.

Yes! i find it very exciting to witness the start of a whole new industry. i have been thinking about 3d printing together with the newly discovered muscle property of plastic fishing line - it boggles my mind: muscles without motors. and powerful muscles at that. Another brand new industry!

Now, how to make the 3d printer print the muscles, eh?

Sorry ... kind of off topic ... i get carried away ...

 

[Delta3DStudios]

Yes! i find it very exciting to witness the start of a whole new industry. i have been thinking about 3d printing together with the newly discovered muscle property of plastic fishing line - it boggles my mind: muscles without motors. and powerful muscles at that. Another brand new industry!

Now, how to make the 3d printer print the muscles, eh?

Sorry ... kind of off topic ... i get carried away ...

It is a rapidly exploding industry. I entered the market late in 2012 with a Makerbot (It was awesome to start with a calibrated machine - I knew what to expect when I built my own printers).

2013 seemed like the year of new materials. When I started, we had two materials - PLA and ABS to print with, that was it. Now, without any modification to my unit, I can print in Nylon, Composite Wood (stainable!), flexible rubber (PITA to work with in some extruders), and low voltage conductive (great for dual material prints - can make switches, capacitive touch interfaces, etc)! With a slight modification to an all-metal hotend ($100 upgrade), I can print in polycarbonates and PEEK (tool-grade plastic, 300C melting temps!)

There is still a lot of work to be done before it's as simple to use as traditional 2D printers, but we're getting there! I think the adoption rate will skyrocket over the next 10 years, even faster than the adoption rate of smartphones.

Another fun thing to consider - for under $900 you can buy a pre-assembled refining machine for your own house. Simply purchase raw plastic pellets, or shred your existing waste plastic to make your own filament for use with a 3d printer! Don't start saving your plastic yet, but in another year or so, I'll be recycling waste plastic into 3D printer filament.

 

[Hippie Dickie]

@Ratchett - How about speed? my rough estimate is that a 2" cube with only a 1/4" thick wall would take over an hour to print. maybe a honeycomb structure for the walls would be faster - don't need much strength for the cube, but even so a honeycomb would be plenty strong.

i'm really surprised you can print polycarbonate and PEEK. i didn't realize the extruder could get that hot.

 

[Delta3DStudios]

@Ratchett - How about speed? my rough estimate is that a 2" cube with only a 1/4" thick wall would take over an hour to print. maybe a honeycomb structure for the walls would be faster - don't need much strength for the cube, but even so a honeycomb would be plenty strong.

i'm really surprised you can print polycarbonate and PEEK. i didn't realize the extruder could get that hot.

I prefer slow and stead (I'm in no hurry, as long as I get a quality print). Your estimates sound about right, though In a rush, I'm sure I could print it in 30 minutes. Speed is also determined by infill percentage. I typically infill between 10 and 40%. For more solid items, I shoot for 60% - very rarely do I waste material going 100% infill. Infill shapes also determine speed - I like honeycomb because it creates the strongest structure with minimal material (and it's easier for bridging). Some Slicing software like Slic3r default to diagonal lines in a cris-cross pattern - this works faster than the honeycomb shape, but sacrifices structural integrity for speed

Most standard 3D printers include a PEEK or PTFE liner to guide the plastic into the nozzle. Typically printing anything above 260C is catastrophic for the hotend (I've seen plenty of times where someone had a shorted thermistor and the hotend kept heating up until failure of the PEEK liner). In the past 10 months, I've seen quite a few all-metal hotends hit the market, they will probably become the standard in a year or less on all 3D printers

 

[CentiZen]

I prefer slow and stead (I'm in no hurry, as long as I get a quality print). Your estimates sound about right, though In a rush, I'm sure I could print it in 30 minutes. Speed is also determined by infill percentage. I typically infill between 10 and 40%. For more solid items, I shoot for 60% - very rarely do I waste material going 100% infill. Infill shapes also determine speed - I like honeycomb because it creates the strongest structure with minimal material (and it's easier for bridging). Some Slicing software like Slic3r default to diagonal lines in a cris-cross pattern - this works faster than the honeycomb shape, but sacrifices structural integrity for speed

Most standard 3D printers include a PEEK or PTFE liner to guide the plastic into the nozzle. Typically printing anything above 260C is catastrophic for the hotend (I've seen plenty of times where someone had a shorted thermistor and the hotend kept heating up until failure of the PEEK liner). In the past 10 months, I've seen quite a few all-metal hotends hit the market, they will probably become the standard in a year or less on all 3D printers

Is PEEK something that only a select few printers can do at this point? I'm wondering if the Ultimaker 2 could do PEEK with an all metal hot end, but I can't find too much info on it at this point.

 

[Delta3DStudios]

Is PEEK something that only a select few printers can do at this point? I'm wondering if the Ultimaker 2 could do PEEK with an all metal hot end, but I can't find too much info on it at this point.

Not sure, I haven't had a need for PEEK printing just yet, so I haven't done much research, if the ultimaker comes with an all metal hotend, it might be capable of printing at 300C, but it might be uncharted waters. I know most people going to all metal hotends are doing it to print in Polycarbonates which print around 260C to 270C. The hotend might be all metal, but that doesn't guarantee the heat won't travel upwards to the mounting/wiring of the unit and cause damage.

I'd be very cautious about any home 3D printer which touts PEEK printing capabilities - those temperatures are not well documented, nor do I know how healthy it is to print with PEEK without proper ventilation. (Printing in ABS is already borderline unsafe for 3D printing in an enclosed room with no ventilation).

Just printed a new set of plastic tweezers to help load glass flowers into my ascent (plastic instead of metal tweezers so I can't scratch the glass in the bowl!). And I designed a tamping object perfectly sized for the DV Ascent bowl (I hope its a perfect fit, will test it later to see how tight of a fit it is)


Still really need to design a simple loading dock to hold the Ascent while I fill it. I've seen a few good ideas on here, but to start, I need something quick, dirty, and simple to design and print.

 

[grokit]

Have you guys experimenting with the balloons and pumps for the ascent considered using a vaporlung? It would affect compactness as far as portability goes, but may also help simplify things a bit.

 

[Delta3DStudios]

Have you guys experimenting with the balloons and pumps for the ascent considered using a vaporlung? It would affect compactness as far as portability goes, but may also help simplify things a bit.

Link? Not quite sure what the vaporlung is?? I'm looking for a way to adapt to a common bag anyone can find and buy (ease of use is main concern)



Guy's - I just noticed this tidbit on the Brass materials page of Shapeways.com:

Please note that the 3D printed products are intended for decorative purposes. They are not suited to be used as toys or to be given to underage children. The products should not come into contact with electricity and be kept away from heat. Our materials, except for 3D printed glazed ceramic, are not food safe.

Hmmm, so the question is, how does glazed ceramic do in a chamber? Will it hold heat well? I suspect so?? Maybe this is a viable option for 3D printing some Ascent spacers???

Edit - sadly the minimum volume is 120mm - (X+Y+Z) - the most I need for a spacer is 40mm!

 

[nigel]

- I just noticed this tidbit on the Brass materials page of Shapeways.com:

I had mentioned previously in thread that I thought lead was a concern. (Even if it is only 2%, that's 100% too much.) I wonder if that's what their concern is?

I know for PLA and ABS the non-ss nozzles are brass (with lead).

Hmmm, so the question is, how does glazed ceramic do in a chamber?

Did you just ask how a glazed ceramic object do in a glass-lined ceramic bowl?

 

[Delta3DStudios]

I was moreso asking about the thermal conductivity of glazed ceramic verses something like copper

 

[grokit]

Link? Not quite sure what the vaporlung is??

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-amazing-vapor-lung.7526/

Nothing to do with vaporizers but I thought this was kind of cool.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Tiny-Planet-A-3D-Printed-Mechanical-Sculpture/?ALLSTEPS

 

[Delta3DStudios]

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-amazing-vapor-lung.7526/

Nothing to do with vaporizers but I thought this was kind of cool.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Tiny-Planet-A-3D-Printed-Mechanical-Sculpture/?ALLSTEPS

Interesting concept (can't help but imagine how much easier/accurate 3D printed parts would be for that application). Though I really think I want a bag system which uses traditional vape bags - I just need to figure out the mounting system.

After thinking more about the bag adapter for the Ascent, I think since the system isn't as air-tight as I'd hope, I think I'm going to put the fan on the other side (to suck air through the vape, rather than blow air through the grill on the bottom) - I think flowing would direct vapor through the cracks and not into the bag (path of least resistance).

That means I need to figure out how to make an adapter which puts no stress on the glass mouthpiece. (support the whole unit).

 

[chester222]

I just found out that where I live there's atleast 3 different 3d printing places. Can't wait to leech off of ur guys' work

 

[Delta3DStudios]

I just found out that where I live there's atleast 3 different 3d printing places. Can't wait to leech off of ur guys' work

Happy to hear it! Check out Thingiverse.com - awesome site full of 3D models - simply download whatever you want to a thumb drive and take it over to those 3D printing shops - some stuff is harder to print than other stuff.
I've been working on a modified version of cross-tweezers found on thingiverse to handle loading glass flowers into my Ascent. Seriously about to start designing a stand for this sucker

Edit - posted this on the Ascent thread - but figured I'd share it here
This is a quick simple design I built using Google Sketchup (not the most powerful CAD software around)

Printing this now, hopefully it will work nicely