3D printing some Vapor Related Equipment (Ascent? Others?)

[nigel]

Think this is the right place to start this thread.

This stems from an off-line convo with @Adobewan but further input from @Ratchett in the Ascent thread made me think this might be a community benefiting issue.

3D printers are pretty bloody common these days, so why wouldn't the WeedN3rds™ at FC throw some energy into that?

First thing that comes to mind (because all three of us own one) is the fact the Ascent could really benefit from a charging stand and/or a stand to hold it whilst one loads it. (Okay, honestly, something to hold the thing during loading is probably more important, but I like the idea of a charging stand that can hold some of the accessories.)

I post here one of the ideas we had.

I'm moving this out of the Ascent thread, as I think there are probably other vaporizer that could use stands or other tools, that I thought there might be some good ideas.

So I welcome all things 3D printed that are vape-related.

 

[chester222]

I hope this isn't off topic - what's a good 3d printer to buy these days to make things like this?

 

[Delta3DStudios]

@nigel - thanks for the new thread! That is an awesome idea for a charging stand - I might be able to make something *similar*.

Yes! 3D printing is everywhere, and it's here to stay! Think back to people building computers with a soldering iron in their basement in the 1980's - that's where we are currently...... Actually, that was 2 years ago. Everyone is moving towards commercializing off the printers as much as possible - and developers are scrambling to find ways to make the software easier to use (trust me, figuring out all the different software you need, and how to manipulate the models to achieve best results is still an artform - you can't just walk up to a printer - give it a 3D model and say "print" - you need to tell it how to print - what you want the thickness of the walls, how fast to print, how much infill, etc)

Few things to note for anyone who has ideas or wishes to design something to be 3D printed:

1) The printer starts at the bottom and works up to the top (0.2mm layers is my preference). The problem is - unsupported overhangs greater than 45 degrees. If there is nothing to support the overhang the plastic will fall (how much depends on how great the overhang is - bridges can be easier and harder at the same time depending on how far apart they are). You can print water soluble plastic supports, but the material is finicky, I personally don't have any success with dual material printing yet. My alternative is tiny supports that I add to the model to hold the unit up and then snap them off when finished printing. This model might print, but I probably would be more comfortable modifying the design (which is easy) - While 3D printing does indeed allow us to produce parts not able to be created by traditional means, cheap home 3D printers still can't compete with $50,000 laser sintering 3d printers.

2) I welcome anyone's CAD designs - For the most part - any program that can generate a 3D model can also export to a file format called STL - either natively, or with a 3rd party plugin. Feel free to shoot me any of your designs in STL format - I can open, and edit/crop/scale those files as needed.

@chester222 "Good" depends on price and features - Do you want to build the unit yourself from a kit so you can fix it when it breaks (because you will need to service the unit eventually - either through maintenance or repairs). Or do you want plug and play?

If you want plug and play - I suggest an Ultimaker or Makerbot - those are two very stable machines. If you want something 'exotic' - look at the SeeMeCNC Orion (I have the rostock max) - Delta 3D printers are just so SEXY to watch them in action (especially while in a 'vape session' lol).

Personally, If you have never used or worked with a 3d printer before (it takes a while to understand how the plastic behaves), I suggest buying a pre-assembled printer from a reputable name like the ones I suggested. I have seen people build a printer from a kit, and have no idea what to expect - they don't even understand how the machine works, yet they are mindlessly following the instructions, which usually are incomplete.

If you are on a very tight budget, you can build a beginner's printer for less than $400. If you want to 'feel the waters' before digging head first'- I haven't personally used them, but there is a HUGE community around Printrbot - they sell the Printrbot Simple for $349

Question for everyone out there
If I were to design my own custom 'spacers' for my ascent (to replace the glass flowers) to sit in the oven with the herb, which metal (Steel, Sterling Silver, Brass, or Bronze) would be the 'safest' to use in my DaVinci Ascent?


Here's some ideas I'm currently thinking about (for my DV Ascent)
1) Silicon-like padded 'sleeve' with a lid to create an air-tight case preventing an 'odors' from escaping while traveling. (I have a flexible plastic which is almost like rubber, I think it would work GREAT for this application
2) "Tamper" to help compact the herb once the chamber has been loaded (perfectly shaped for the Ascent
3) Loading "dock" to hold DaVinci Ascent in an upright position while loading the unit (I plan to make a beautiful exotic one with spots to hold accessories)
4) Portable loading dock - some sort of collapseable design to make it easy to carry on the go.
5) Charging station

Working on upgrading the heating core in my 3d printer and re-calibrating it - but my personal 3D printer should be running this weekend, ready for me to start testing prototypes!

 

[nigel]

Another idea.

This time using a test tube rack as an idea for holding more accessories.

Why has @Adobewan not commented in this thread already?

 

[clouded vision]

A lever for the cera to actuate the switch on the bottom. TET says eventually they are going to offer a way to put the switch on the side but I'm tired of waiting. I have some ideas for it but I don't know anyone with a 3d printer. you would need a hose clamp that you can tighten around the outside of the switch with a bolt and then the lever can connect to the clamp with the bolt. The lever would go over the switch then you would press the switch by squeezing it against the body. Basically it would be like a grenade spoon except you would squeeze it instead of releasing it

 

[Patrick Hughes]

A lever for the cera to actuate the switch on the bottom. TET says eventually they are going to offer a way to put the switch on the side but I'm tired of waiting. I have some ideas for it but I don't know anyone with a 3d printer.

3D Systems will print any .stl or .cube file that you upload to this site: http://cubify.com/
You don't need a printer. They will send it to you. There are other materials besides plastic available as well.

If you use their software to design your objects it will automatically design supports.

 

[Delta3DStudios]

A lever for the cera to actuate the switch on the bottom. TET says eventually they are going to offer a way to put the switch on the side but I'm tired of waiting. I have some ideas for it but I don't know anyone with a 3d printer. you would need a hose clamp that you can tighten around the outside of the switch with a bolt and then the lever can connect to the clamp with the bolt. The lever would go over the switch then you would press the switch by squeezing it against the body. Basically it would be like a grenade spoon except you would squeeze it instead of releasing it

I will be offering 3D printing services also, but I should mention Shapeways.com is also a phenomenal place - and you can print in a WIDE variety of materials (growing everyday).

 

[nigel]

I will be offering 3D printing services also, but I should mention Shapeways.com is also a phenomenal place - and you can print in a WIDE variety of materials (growing everyday).

That's great! Now we just have to get talent pouring into this thread to not only design all the cool things, but also to model said ideas!

In terms of materials @Ratchett do you have a good idea of what is "vapor path" safe and what isn't. Obviously a switch or a stand it doesn't matter. But some stuff might be desired for vapor path.

Next question: How long until we can print glass?

 

[herbivore21]

I would love a sheathe to secure my custom gong for my pnp if someone could design one!

 

[nigel]

A lever for the cera to actuate the switch on the bottom.

I don't have one. Can you at least "napkin sketch" a general idea of what your are talking about? Also, if you can include dimensions that would help, but no worry if you can't as I'm sure others can. That'd be a start.

I would love a sheathe to secure my custom gong for my pnp if someone could design one!

"Napkin sketch" it! Give us the general idea. Just like @clouded vision, if you can give that start, then other people can work from that!

 

[chester222]

I'm really under the influence right now but my dream would be to have a bag system add on to ascent. Since back grill is open u can make like a cupping thing that covers it with some kinda air inducing thing on the other side. And the bag attachment on top. But again I'm in another dimension

 

[herbivore21]

I've decided to get on the 3d printer gravy train this year. It just sounds like too cool of a thing not to have!

 

[grokit]

Pirate3D ended up crowd-sourcing over 3,000 of these, they should start shipping in may.

• Build Volume: 145 mm L x 125 mm W x 155 mm H
• Layer Resolution: 85 Microns (0.085 mm)
• Positioning Precision: 15.9 Microns XY (0.0159 mm), 11.25 Microns Z (0.01125 mm)
• Filament Diameter: 1.75mm
• Nozzle Diameter: 0.4mm
• Cartridge capacity: 400g

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/pirate3d/the-buccaneer-the-3d-printer-that-everyone-can-use

 

[herbivore21]

That looks incredible and perfect for making vape accessories! Does anyone know if it will accept materials which can be used in a vapour path? Which materials should be used for this when 3d printing?

 

[grokit]

It's being marketed as a foolproof home printer, with attention paid to ease of setup and safety of operation and materials. Originally it was going to have ABS plastic and a heated print-bed, but not sure about that anymore. At this point it looks like those features will be more of an add-on at a higher price down the road.

 

[herbivore21]

is abs plastic vapor path worthy, or 'vapor path worthy'?

 

[grokit]

I think there is abs pipe that hot water goes through, not sure what's in the cartridges. Afaik it's like comparing the soft plastic of for example army men to harder stuff like the pipe I just mentioned.
Personally I am wondering about high-temperature silicon,
it would be cool to be able to extrude that stuff right out of the box.
I think it will be mostly for prototyping and fun stuff, especially without the heated bed.

 

[Delta3DStudios]

@nigel - See – and THIS is why I didn’t want to thread hijack the Ascent thread! Ha ha ha. The problem is I don’t know what I could make ‘vapor path’ approved. Personally, I don’t have any printers powerful enough for materials to withstand those temps (I can currently print at temps up to 260C – any hotter and the PEEK lining of my hotend would melt) – there are all metal hotends which can print at 300C+ – but I have no need for that yet

Which metals are considered vapor safe? Shapeways can print in Steel, Sterling Silver, Brass, and Bronze. I suspect Brass would be the *most* vapor safe – but I really don’t know (That was a big question I had for this thread what can be vapor safe). Shapeways can also print food-safe ceramic, but I don’t know if that’s safe to vape.


@herbivore21 – could simple round/rectangular padded rubber sleeve with a top-cap (pressure fit) be sufficient? If you PM me the inner-dimensions required and the basic shape desired (square, rectangular, round tube), I could send you a quote. I could make the padding as thick as you like (honeycomb style infill would create an extra level of ‘cushioning’ for hard impacts) – shouldn’t be too expensive


@chester222 – I’ve already been considering that – he he he – I just need someone to show me what the bag adapter looks like (I’ve never used a bag – I’m a vape newb). For the air intake side, I’m thinking about creating a funnel adapter (pressure fit? Snap Fit? TBD), with a 40mm 5vdc fan, battery powered with a switch – to create a very mild breeze to fill the bags – does anyone have an idea of the CFM (cubic feet per minute) air volume desired for bag filling? It really should NOT be hard to make a portable bag vape – Keep dreaming – that’s what 3d printers are for!


@grokit – the Buccaneer looks decent on paper – but I have my reservations – and From those images, that definitely does not have a heated bed – so it’s PLA only – which makes sense because PLA is much easier for people to use than ABS

is abs plastic vapor path worthy, or 'vapor path worthy'?

Absolutely not!!! I print ABS at 220C (430F). If you put that in your vape, it would ooze through the holes near the end of your session! Unfortunately, most all home 3d printers can only print with a printing temp below 260C – still way too low for vape internals.

I think there is abs pipe that hot water goes through, not sure what's in the cartridges. Afaik it's like comparing the soft plastic of for example army men to harder stuff like the pipe I just mentioned.

Personally I am wondering about high-temperature silicon, it would be cool to be able to extrude that stuff right out of the box. I think it will be mostly for prototyping and fun stuff, especially without the heated bed.

I hope it’s not ABS!!! In regards to high temp silicon – is it 100% silicon? I make a Sugru type substance with silicon and corn starch called “Oogoo” (hard to mix – but keep at it, and it eventually mixes – but don’t inhale the off-gassing!!). What I’ve done in the past is design my 3D model, run it through a script to create a negative mold. Print the two parts of the mold. Fill the mold with Oogoo, wait a day, and voila – molded silicon part!

 

[herbivore21]

thanks! Could you possibly draw what you are describing? I am baked and struggling to do abstract comprehension lol

 

[Delta3DStudios]

thanks! Could you possibly draw what you are describing? I am baked and struggling to do abstract comprehension lol

PM me your email address, I'll email you a 3D model design.

Basically - what shape is your GONG - is it a straight pipe? Can I make something like a rubber cigar tube? PM me or post a picture of your GONG and a few basic dimensions

 

[herbivore21]

i shall post pictures in the morning, what material would you use, may I enquire?

 

[Delta3DStudios]

i shall post pictures in the morning, what material would you use, may I enquire?

For a sleeve, I would print with this new flexible plastic material - I print at around 200C (should be able to handle temps up to 175C from your GONG after use with no problem). It's flexible and stretchy, but retains it's original shape, even when compacted.

 

[grokit]

@nigel@grokit – the Buccaneer looks decent on paper – but I have my reservations – and From those images, that definitely does not have a heated bed – so it’s PLA only – which makes sense because PLA is much easier for people to use than ABS


Absolutely not!!! I print ABS at 220C (430F). If you put that in your vape, it would ooze through the holes near the end of your session! Unfortunately, most all home 3d printers can only print with a printing temp below 260C – still way too low for vape internals.

I hope it’s not ABS!!! In regards to high temp silicon – is it 100% silicon? I make a Sugru type substance with silicon and corn starch called “Oogoo” (hard to mix – but keep at it, and it eventually mixes – but don’t inhale the off-gassing!!). What I’ve done in the past is design my 3D model, run it through a script to create a negative mold. Print the two parts of the mold. Fill the mold with Oogoo, wait a day, and voila – molded silicon part!

I just found this tidbit on the bucaneer:

"Pirate3D will be offering official acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) support at the $1,000,000 mark! We will be providing software settings for ABS plastic as well as offering the material itself in our cartridges.

This stretch goal was based on feedback from you guys calling for ABS support. Rather than stop at providing a heated bed and unofficial hacks to use ABS, we've decided to incorporate ABS as an official material. After rigorous testing with our current system, we have found that we can offer ABS support without compromising the usability of the Buccaneer."

 

[Delta3DStudios]

I just found this tidbit on the bucaneer:
"Pirate3D will be offering official acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) support at the $1,000,000 mark! We will be providing software settings for ABS plastic as well as offering the material itself in our cartridges.

This stretch goal was based on feedback from you guys calling for ABS support. Rather than stop at providing a heated bed and unofficial hacks to use ABS, we've decided to incorporate ABS as an official material. After rigorous testing with our current system, we have found that we can offer ABS support without compromising the usability of the Buccaneer."

Awesome to hear. Though I should note - printing in ABS and other exotic materials which require a heated bed are a PITA to work with. PLA is very forgiving and easy to work with. My Makerbot Replicator (first generation) had a heated bed for $2000. The new Replicator2 is a much better printer for the same price, but it includes no heated bed! The "Replicator 2 Experimental" which has an enclosed build space and a heated bed (easy hacks for anybody to make to their Replicator2), costs $2900! When 3D printing using FDM technology, remember the first layer is most critical - if the first layer doesn't have a proper bond to the surface, the print will warp and eventually come loose while printing (meanwhile your printer thinks everything is still going GREAT - and keeps moving around and printing the whole).

The price is coming down for 3D printers, but to all newbies out there - if you have zero 3D printing experience, start with PLA (which can stick to blue painters tape, with no heated bed) - it's a much more forgiving material, and since it's biodegradable, you can feel better about throwing away failed prints. Don't get me wrong, I still heat my bed to 50C when printing with PLA because I don't want to risk any delamination issues, and heated beds are awesome, but it takes a long time to get the hang of using them.


Also guys, I found this yesterday while searching around on printing with glass!
http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/401-you-can-now-3d-print-in-glass-with-shapeways.html

Sounds like it's a brittle glass, 3MM minimum wall thicknesses. But the interesting thing is the binding agent - supposedly organic. I'm wondering if this could be used to print vape-safe glass accessories..... Though I don't know if I'd feel safe using it as such until a professional evaluated the chemistry behind it.

It also appears HP is looking into 3d printing with glass - http://3dprintingindustry.com/2013/01/23/the-future-of-3d-printing-materials-according-to-hp-glass/

I've come up with an awesome design for a 2-piece glass spacer for the DV ascent. I'm going to mock it up in sketchup and upload to the Ascent thread. I think it would be awesome, if DV could make it, maybe the shapeways 3d printed glass would be sufficient for a prototype?

 

[Hippie Dickie]

nice thread!

if i ever get through this phase of development i definitely want to try printing the cube body for my vape. the heat shield keeps the wood from getting above warm, so plastic should be okay. i can visualize a cube body in two parts that just snaps together. vape production time would be cut from an hour of milling the wood to just seconds: place the pcb and heat shield tube into the bottom half of the cube and snap on the top half. no fasteners, accurate dimensions. fun to contemplate.