13.5v for log vapes?

[SmokingElectricity]

When i bought my MZ, it came with two 12v plugs and one 13.5v. [i bought my MZ used] and didn't think i really needed the 13.5v. Last night, i decided to try out the 13.5v and experiment. GOT DAYMN I didn't think i could pull hits like that off my MZ. I def see myself using my MZ alot more now. I'll just make sure when i'm not using it, to plug it back in to the 12v plug so i don't burn it out as quick, but damn. I wasn't sure if i needed it or not, but i'm glad i have it.

Maybe other log vape users could share their 13.5v stories????

 

[Pappy]

^ Just don't combust!

 

[lwien]

Maybe other log vape users could share their 13.5v stories????

It's not recommended to use a 13.5v with the PD and I've found that there is absolutely no need to, being that my ABV comes out a very, very dark brown, just a shade or two below black, so I'm thinkin' it's operating at about 390 to 395f with the standard 12v.

 

[SmokingElectricity]

@ lwien

i'm not sure of the voltage coming out of the wall, but when i use the 12v plug, my ABV comes out still pretty green sometimes. I have a verizon tech coming today, maybe i will ask if him/her can check.

 

[lwien]

@ lwien

i'm not sure of the voltage coming out of the wall, but when i use the 12v plug, my ABV comes out still pretty green sometimes. I have a verizon tech coming today, maybe i will ask if him/her can check.

One thing to keep in mind is that if you have a MyrtleZap, it will tend to run a bit cooler because it's made out of Myrtlewood rather than Cherrywood that most PD's are made out of. But yeah, if my ABV was coming out green or even just a light golden brown, I'd be looking for ways to warm it up too.

Ambient temp can also play a role, as well as any fan that might be nearby.

 

[SmokingElectricity]

Yes. my apartment tends to run a bit cool. could be a factor. I'm sure that will change come summertime.

 

[aero18]

Yes. my apartment tends to run a bit cool. could be a factor. I'm sure that will change come summertime.

I've noticed that the MyrtleZaps have less girth to them than PD's, so there is less wood mass to hold in heat and this also influences its cooler running temperatures.

 

[SmokingElectricity]

I thought you had a choice as to what kind of wood a PD can be made from???

 

[lwien]

I thought you had a choice as to what kind of wood a PD can be made from???

The standard for years with the PD was Cherrywood. You were able to get custom woods, but there were few and far between. When I got mine over 2 years ago, all that was available was CherryWood, and it seems, even today, that it provides the highest vape temps of all of them.

I also have an Ash PD, but it runs a lot cooler. ABV comes out a golden brown versus a very dark brown.

 

[Lo]

PD wood choices are offered but for a while they were only standard cherry units.

I have both MZ & PD and found the MZ to run a little cooler than the PD. A coozie or sock would probably work nearly as well as the 13.5 plug for those that don't have one.

I use my MZ as a loaner to convert other stoners

 

[aesthyrian]

My walnut WDZ vapes great with the 12V. I honestly think a 13.5V would be overkill and possibly combustion if I tried it. I would much prefer a sock or koozie rather than increasing the amount of voltage the unit is getting. Socks are safer than electricity in my experiences, and I wouldn't want to damage the internals of my vape if I didn't have to.

 

[GO!!bot]

would the WDZ be closer to the PD or the Myrtlezap in temp? I know it was modeled after the PD but does it have the same characteristics (someone in this thread mentioned the PD is fatter, etc.)? I am looking to buy either a zap or WDz to save money and time

and wdz people seem to really back it!

 

[TanzRemix]

My ABV comes out pretty dark brown from my Walnut MZ. At night, for a special treat, I'll throw a wool hiking sock over the top while I brush my teeth and stuff before bed, then come back and rip a keif bowl. I've left the sock on for close to an hour and it does smell a little funny (like things are really getting hot), so I would imagine the higher voltage would have a similar effect. I think of it as slamming a stick shift around; it might be fun and get you places faster, but its going to have consequences when it comes to wear and tear, useful life, etc.

 

[DeepFried]

would the WDZ be closer to the PD or the Myrtlezap in temp? I know it was modeled after the PD but does it have the same characteristics (someone in this thread mentioned the PD is fatter, etc.)? I am looking to buy either a zap or WDz to save money and time

and wdz people seem to really back it!

What about the OCD vape, same basic design but with adjustable temps and other improvements.

 

[lwien]

e]

What about the OCD vape, same basic design but with adjustable temps and other improvements.

I can think of a few reasons why not.

For one thing, it's still in beta and changes are currently being implemented.

Secondly, for some, an adjustable temp is not necessarily an improvement. For me, as an example, I had two vapes that had adjustable temps and I prefer my PD with a fixed temp. Why? Because when I had the adjustable temp vapes, once I found the temp that I liked, I never adjusted it anymore. With a fixed temp vape, I don't have to concern myself with that.

Third, until we have more reviews coming in, we really don't know how good of a vape the OCD is. It looks good on paper, but how is it in actual use once it comes out of beta? We really don't know yet.

So, unless one enjoys being a guinea pig on a brand new product (and many of us do here), one of the other vapes that have been around for awhile may be a better choice.

 

[IAmKrazy2]

I have a 13v adapter that sits in the drawer. Never used a 13.5v

 

[Purple-Days]

Deep Fried says, "What about the OCD vape, same basic design but with adjustable temps and other improvements." It certainly deserves mention here, but is not "the same basic design" as the vapes being discussed.

While the OCD has a similar size and uses a wooden body it is a 120 Volt unit operating an entirely different type of 'resistance heater'. And is now in a second design different from the first, but still 120V. There are other differences.

All 'log' vapes, as they are collectively known here (PD, WZ and AZ/MZ) and which started with the Eterra have used the same type and rating resistor (25J20R[E]) and have operated at 12 Volts since 1978.

The OCD is another sort, similar in some ways, different in some important ways and can't be lumped with the ones mentioned above. IMO. It's it's own thing.

 

[Alan]

I have been really enjoying my variable voltage power supply. Now I always know what voltage I am applying to my unit. It doesn't matter if the wall voltage is 110, 115, or 120. I can apply the voltage necessary to generate the appropriate temperature for the particular strain of herb and the level of extraction.

Unless someone measures the output from their transformer, it is not certain that a 12 volt transformer will indeed give a 12 volt output. 12 to 13 volts is the best range I have found for my current herb supply.

I don't use the power supply to vary the temperature in my roasting tube. Only for setting the high end temperature. The fixed temperature feature is what I like the best. I just want to be able to set that fixed temperature. I don't necessarily need to know what that temperature value is, but how complete of an extraction while still getting a good taste.

I vary the temperature in the roasting tube by the depth of insertion into the heat sink tube. I like the feature of a loose fitting tube. It allows cool room air to mix with the hot heat sink air to give the perfect vaporizing temperature for current level of extraction. The final extractions will occur when the tube is fully inserted.

 

[Gunky]

TV, do you have a supply with banana jack output? If so did you have to build your own cable for banana plug to 12v adapter type plug?

 

[Alan]

My power supply does have banana jack output. I had to build my own cable. The nice part of it is that you can make a longer cable. Mine is 10 foot long.

 

[Wolface]

Tattoo power supplies can be used by replacing the 1/4 inch jacks seen on most of them with positive and negative biner posts. After a couple of months or so of 24/7 plugged in, my walnut PD has nestled into the perfect temp for me so I likley won't bother with one, but I was wanting a little more heat when the unit was brand new. It seems to get warmer over time.

 

[underdog]

Tattoo power supplies can be used by replacing the 1/4 inch jacks seen on most of them with positive and negative biner posts. After a couple of months or so of 24/7 plugged in, my walnut PD has nestled into the perfect temp for me so I likley won't bother with one, but I was wanting a little more heat when the unit was brand new. It seems to get warmer over time.

They can work pretty well but you do have to be careful since many of them use fixed current (usually 2A) with variable voltage which can overheat internal components if you run it at a voltage you're used to with another type of a supply. With a fixed amperage supply you'll usually need to run it at a significantly lower voltage and will have to experiment to find the right range. Of course such experiments are half the fun..

 

[Wolface]

Precautions could be taken with the use of a multi-meter and infrared heat gun.

 

[Rick]

Tom is right on about the OCD.
One reason the tried and true log vape design continues to be popular is there is only 12 volts at 1 amp going into the unit from a UL approved step down transformer. That adds a high level of safety to the traditional design. With 110 volts going in to a device, I would expect to see a UL sticker on it. Off topic a bit but big difference.
underdog
The traditional log vape design will take all the amps you want to feed it but it will only consume about .7 amp. Think about it folks, how many amps is it getting when you plug it into a car cig lighter plug? 30 amps? 50/60 amps? They still purr like a kitten(except no purr). On the traditonal log vape design, only VOLTAGE affects the heat. Amperage has no affect on heat as long as you have the minimum required, a bit less than one amp.

 

[Deadhead101]

Tom is right on about the OCD.
One reason the tried and true log vape design continues to be popular is there is only 12 volts at 1 amp going into the unit from a UL approved step down transformer. That adds a high level of safety to the traditional design. With 110 volts going in to a device, I would expect to see a UL sticker on it. Off topic a bit but big difference.
underdog
The traditional log vape design will take all the amps you want to feed it but it will only consume about .7 amp. Think about it folks, how many amps is it getting when you plug it into a car cig lighter plug? 30 amps? 50/60 amps? They still purr like a kitten(except no purr). On the traditonal log vape design, only VOLTAGE affects the heat. Amperage has no affect on heat as long as you have the minimum required, a bit less than one amp.

The reason I'm going to try a variable voltage power supy is because I prefer a slightly lower temp than what my PD is currently operating at. As long as one stays at or below the suggested voltage, there should be no problem and theoretically would increase the life of the unit (though that isn't really necessary since they live so long anyway).
The only way problems could occur is if someone decides to or accidentally goes over the recommended voltage.