Search results

I did the over-wraps to add the extra length. But yes, you are right, narrowing the coil narrows the field. It is most intense in the center. The little indicator is back a ways inside the metal, meaning it is somewhat shielded. I think the hint is indeed to keep coils short. You could...

Nice work @waungus Indeed, that low voltage switch is to enable to enable the gate circuit. Without that, the circuit will not oscillate. The FETs remain open even with power applied. By default, both the power circuit and the control circuit (gate circuit) are enabled simultaneously. I...

Hey @Dns18_05 I haven't fired up the Tempest yet. I'll probably be using the Wand to start. I need to see where it lands on the power draw compared to my caps. I haven't played with ball vapes but the idea you can heat them more aggressively seems likely. I'm still open to the idea of using...

Tempest delivered to Oregon. No duties due.

USPS notified me.

I was notified that my order hit stateside and is now with USPS.

Etsy number 1370617408 for the Brute

Interesting trick on the sim. That 60 watts comes in when you use the FET along with a PWM... they get really hot when you lower the pulse width. That's one reason we don't regulate onboard. If you look carefully at the startup pulse, it seems to be 1-1/2 cycles long... that's where things...

@jackrod Is that 470 ohm and 480 ohm intentional? Edit: Note what the specs are for the FETs 24N06. If I'm not reading it wrong, they are good to 60 watts. The ZVS is noted to be 120 watts. In the real world, true, a 50% duty cycle but each FET takes on the whole load. This means many of...

@maremaresing - one bonus on the lab supplies is the CC-mode. But of course you're right, they are overkill unless you have an interest in the readback from the meters. Knowing how many watts a cap draws is good information to have. Doesn't mean you need to use it all the time, but if you...

You're on the right track @beigh . Personally I would recommend a lab-style supply as they are a lot more versatile. Something among these for under $50 - https://www.amazon.com/Lab-Power-Supplies/b?ie=UTF8&node=318022011 You are looking for watts. Having the power meter (watts) on the lab...

Terps are weak molecules. Temp-stepping starting with low temps assures more fragile molecules remain intact. This affects the entourage profile.

The origins of this thread: https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/vapcap-diy-induction-heating-bits-n-pieces.49663/

More power just turns into more condensation in the condenser. I was running around 90 watts and made the remark that my vape seemed to be disappearing. Sure enough, a runny blonde syrup developed quickly in the condenser that is normally a deep dark crimson red over a much longer period.

The strongest part of the field will be the center of the coil 10mm is a bit short but worth a try. I wound the outer part of the coil around the inner simply to use up the extra length of wire.

Aluminum is not fully transparent to RF but it definitely helps. Remember that there is an RF field along the legs of the coil. Typically you want the design to route the two wires close together. You might be disrupting the field around the two chokes.

@maremaresing - you're problem is that you have a metal box. You are inducing current into the chassis. It also appears you have shortened the coil wire significantly. They are tuned for 3S with the wire being 33" long. You're coil-wire length could be sufficient to try a 2S arrangement.

That mouthpiece isn't working for me esthetically. Too small and a poor blend.

There is such a thing as 'RF-transparency' which determines the interaction between a material and how it reacts to the RF field. This is fairly easy to test. Measure the current with an 'idle' IH and then insert the material in question into the coil and see if the current changes. A good...

This is correct. The cap shields the inductive field.