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@maremaresing - one bonus on the lab supplies is the CC-mode. But of course you're right, they are overkill unless you have an interest in the readback from the meters. Knowing how many watts a cap draws is good information to have. Doesn't mean you need to use it all the time, but if you...

You're on the right track @beigh . Personally I would recommend a lab-style supply as they are a lot more versatile. Something among these for under $50 - https://www.amazon.com/Lab-Power-Supplies/b?ie=UTF8&node=318022011 You are looking for watts. Having the power meter (watts) on the lab...

Terps are weak molecules. Temp-stepping starting with low temps assures more fragile molecules remain intact. This affects the entourage profile.

The origins of this thread: https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/vapcap-diy-induction-heating-bits-n-pieces.49663/

More power just turns into more condensation in the condenser. I was running around 90 watts and made the remark that my vape seemed to be disappearing. Sure enough, a runny blonde syrup developed quickly in the condenser that is normally a deep dark crimson red over a much longer period.

The strongest part of the field will be the center of the coil 10mm is a bit short but worth a try. I wound the outer part of the coil around the inner simply to use up the extra length of wire.

Aluminum is not fully transparent to RF but it definitely helps. Remember that there is an RF field along the legs of the coil. Typically you want the design to route the two wires close together. You might be disrupting the field around the two chokes.

@maremaresing - you're problem is that you have a metal box. You are inducing current into the chassis. It also appears you have shortened the coil wire significantly. They are tuned for 3S with the wire being 33" long. You're coil-wire length could be sufficient to try a 2S arrangement.

That mouthpiece isn't working for me esthetically. Too small and a poor blend.

There is such a thing as 'RF-transparency' which determines the interaction between a material and how it reacts to the RF field. This is fairly easy to test. Measure the current with an 'idle' IH and then insert the material in question into the coil and see if the current changes. A good...

This is correct. The cap shields the inductive field.

Watts is watts. Eventually everything will heat up, so the question is, wat rate of heating do you want. 120 watts based on the standard module is nothing to sneeze at. I find 60-70 watts to work out perfectly for a DV. This says you can easily double the mass of the tip/cap and still have a...

My last measurements were of some 419 caps I got a few years ago with the 3rd batch of cap materials. They came in at a GR of 5:1. The '3rd batch' was of the original source. Learned since then that making 304 stainless steel magnetic requires work hardening the material. That means is it...

I think this requires a center-tapped coil @kokolokokolokon since it only has one choke.

@132ikl - Your low power draw may be your cap. The weakest cap I ever had came in at around 2.5 amps on a M'20. Also check the voltage at the input of the module to see you have at least 10V. The way you make the power level a bit higher is to remove a loop from the coil. Of course, winding...

That's disturbing as ebony is one of the toxic species.

Click would take a little longer The click would come a little sooner Number of turns seem to have less effect The multiple layers is simply to use the complete wire length The ingress depth moves the clicker further from the sweet spot. This delays the click allowing more heat to build up...

@highvaper - coil wire impedance can be modified with limitations. If you are staying with the 12 awg magnet wire, it is pretty easy: The stock coil is 33" for 3S operation (12V). The stock coil is 10 turns; This equates to approximately 1V/turn, or 10 watts increase for each turn removed...

My iron is a 20/40 watt RadShack special with a 1/8" chisel tip. Solders 12 gauge coil wire to the plane with ease.

You can tame the heater a little by removing one of the black capacitors. If you want to use a high temp shrink tubing, look for PTFE shrink tubing. This minimizes outgassing.