just remember, ones the screws are out, you need to lift the bottom just a bit ,and slide it open in an up/down motion, if you just open it (like a book) you will break 2 plastic lugs that hold the upper housing together. (....don't ask me how I know this......)
same here, although i already replaced the batteries last year and was too lazy to check the screen.........
anyway, replacing the capacitors would be a good start, these things are usually the first components that go bad ,especially when heat is involved.
i have a saying ......."it's...
blue red flashing..... on my crafty (+) even when hot ,the app shows: "battery too low ,warm up vaporizer"
....sometimes it works though. bad thermistor ,bad connection?
I literally called what the update would be months ago :
...
...
• Improved housing material ......
...
I am not convinced they actually did that. i bet even the + will chip/break after 2 years of use. (and this is the only "grief" i have with the mighty/crafty.)
i see, ...water damage.... you need to check every component ........ (it sucks i know) but it's possible it's just a simple resistor/capacitor/transistor.
i usually just google them. but it is possible some are custom made , and to get more info about them is extremely difficult. although most of the time they just grind the markings from "common" ic's if they want to hide something.
did the battery replacement "broke" the mighty ? or didn't...
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...
i'm almost sure the wrong battery level is caused by a bad IC.
you would need to read all ic's id- numbers on the pcb, and check the data sheets if they are "battery charging/monitoring -related" and if so replace it.
i would give you the "specifics", but mine is glued together...
yes, it sends DC, but maybe not enough to supply power continuously without batteries.
if the required power from the charger is marginal, it won't last long. a bigger (more amps) power adapter would be best.
just try it out ,and if the charger gets too hot and/or fails get a bigger power...
to do this you need some electronic skills to choose and add a bridge rectifier and smoothing capacitor to get DC from the "AC".
(maybe some more components to make a even saver circuit )
other than that, if the required watts are available it will work! (on DC though)
got myself a cheap chinese ultrasonic cleaner for the cu's...... 5 minutes in a bag of iso .... and they come out like new!!! (disassembled)
if the iso is a little warm i can cut the time by half......... no more rubbing anymore....!!! :rockon:
I definitely recommend it!
I'm very exited about this, cause my 2 years old replacement mighty started to crack/chip on the known place...........
will you have just one housing, or different types/looks?