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this was only a few posts up from you lol. "Oh yeah...if you ever so slightly shave the hole under the screen of the upper chamber so that a 14mm M to a 18mm F jointed adapter slides in,..and then sleeve that 14mm joint w/ the silicone from the steel whip..you have a perfectly sealed glass on...

I'd just start at 200 and go up until you are satisfied with the ramp up time! 200 is plenty to start vaporizing, its all going to depend on the resistance of your coil to determine what temp you need, in regards as to how fast it will warm up.

ive never had a wick of any kind use up all the oil / mix. the only one that gets close is a wick of stainless steel mesh and even then anything more than a couple millimeters away from the coil will just sit there not getting wicked up. the best method ive seen is a stainless steel mesh wick...

along the lines of your dab tool issue: i find that i have to heat up my coil a touch by pulsing it, then letting it cool or even testing it by touch with my finger (carefully!) to make sure its not too much over 100-150 degrees or so, then just let the wax melt onto it. sometimes its a bit too...

true for the most part, but compressing the coil to where they touch does change it slightly, as well as how long you've been using the coil and how much heat has been run through it also minimally changes resistance, but yes, exponentially less important than the general length and gauge of...

exactly. i think there is a write up somewhere in here on ohms / seconds to get to heat but id make a quick stab at .5 ohms for a half second heat up time and 1-1.2 ohms for 3-4 seconds, 2 ohms for 8 seconds. im sure these numbers are DEADLY accurate lmao.

Sorry I didnt mean to scare anyone, I should explain that there are traces of aluminium in kanthal, nickel and chromium in nichrome and stainless steel, or copper in brass connectors. All can be considered bad but the temperatures needed to get harmful gas is not known by me. what I do know is...

I just remembered the another justification for wanting it at 900F that i didnt mention. While going way over to glowing hot and 1000+ like you said will work, you are killing off flavor turpines. so heating up TI nails to pretty much just under glowing, or an approx 900f you are getting the...

yes when I first got my mech mod it was set up for vaping e juice and i thought I'd be able to throw a dab on top and do it like that, silica and all, not even cotton. the wax gets gunked up so quick its not even funny, because it doesnt wick hardly at all, but also because its not hot enough...

1. Number of wraps / length of wire total used for coil. Also how tightly the coil is wrapped, not around the wick but how close the coils are together will effect your overall ohmage a bit. 2. It does not do this normally. you are getting red hot leads because you are shorting out. I...

I believe the AW 18350 is the only one people reccomend to get down to .7 or so ohms, which should be ok. then again its obviously never good to push the envelope when dealing with powering a device. But I do see plenty of people sub ohming with 18530, just not anything past .5

for anyone wanting to make a coil brand new, dry burn it without a wick in it, and immediately run it sideways under a faucet of just tap water. dont let the water get too much on your atty/mod of course but hitting the coil with water while super hot (but not firing) will instantly clean it...

cant go wrong with an Igo-w or nimbus clone. both needed air control modding but for the price ya cant beat it! one i havent tried id be willing to recommend would be the omega style rda from fast tech. ive seen a couple of those on youtube perform as well as the best. definitely get my vote...

really well. i cut the tops into strips and peeled it like a banana. if i could do it again id torch it before placing it in the atty, to make sure any lose SS strands could be burned off, just in case. obviously would make the opening bigger too but i have limited space wtih the size of...

that looks great. and its not even messing wtih the stuff thats dripped down, heat wise. must be great for reclaiming :D

the atomizers i use are all stainless steel internal posts. I was assured this by manufacturer. they are great. I dont notice it, infact I taste the cotton/fibrous flavor of the silica. However when vaping correctly (still sure im not doing it right or something) silica does give you more...

that would be awesome if the guy that i bought my mesh from came through the forum i found because i wanted to start making my own version of an e-nail. the internet is an increasingly small place ive found, which goes against any logic. i was talkin trash about a youtuber in the fast tech...

i havent myself, when i used to break them and pick at em i thought the leads needed to be soldered. could be wrong though. i really dont know why someone would prefer this to a 6 dollar trident clone that was made to be rebuilt though.

mine used to get some weird ash build up that was off-white too. I used to use teh seego all the time, now i slang em on ebay (they arent selling btw lmao) and by the by: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10007524/1646600-glass-dry-content-atomizer...

Yea i still ran into problems with dirty wicks even with custom builds. thing about these is they run much hotter because of the bigger more powerful battery. atty's might fit on the ego pen, but any decent coil you build would over-draw on those tiny batteries, making an unsafe situation. I...