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It’s 5.5mm ID

There will be some final ones available as 10packs around the 10th

Are you sure that it's not the spinning mouthpiece moving around while using it? It does feel like a loose cap to me too sometimes, but it's not the HS. Try to lock the MP

It's not going to be compatible with the YLL 1/2 because it can't output the power that it would need to heat it properly. It will be compatible with the new 3x18650 version that's going to be released by BFG. The new layer will have more chromium Yes It is, pretty much everything else counts...

There will be some of the wood sleeves available as well. The glass is not ready yet

More pre-release units are expected around the 10th. 50 raw Ti and 50 in total of the various colors. Changes since the last batch: - Final bowl screen - Updated airflow tubes that are easier to remove - Updated heat shield o-ring Still no calibrated click unfortunately. New estimate for...

If it's not finished soon then it may be delayed to March because of the upcoming Chinese New Year in February. A new batch of pre-release models, hopefully with the final click discs and some in color, is expected in January. For the pre-release customers, I'll be sending out new indicator...

That's normal. I don't think that it's too noticeable as long as you're not doing it on purpose 🙂 I'm getting new o-rings for the HS which are a bit softer so it's easier to push on and off. We've made the airflow tubes thinner, some were a little too wide. New ones will be sent with the final...

It’s not planned, I don’t think I could sell enough of them to justify a production. No, that date was never announced. Best case is end of January now, the click discs are still not ready :(

Yes it's still separate. I don't have a sketch or a good way of showing it yet, it's only in my head until the click disc is ready. I tend to change things too many times :D You can pull it out easily from next to the Tempest and use it as a debowler or screwdriver. It will be Ti, matched in...

I don't think that it's heating the stem more, there is barely any heat transfer before you start drawing through it. It will get hot quicker as the hot draw starts earlier because the bowl is pre-heated more. Overall when you're finished the stem should be just as hot as with a higher insertion...

When the VI is back at the starting position and it clicks back it’s still not at room temperature and probably hot to the touch. The indicator starts moving around 100C / 200F I’d recommend cutting the adapter’s silicone 2 lines shorter and keep an eye on the VI while heating with the Wand if...

Anywhere between the marked range is good, I'm in the middle which is where it's about level with the red silicone on the bottom.

That’s the plan and it will click back sooner as well. If the bottom of the glass cup is level with the red silicone the induction layer is right in the middle of the coil. If you push it further down it will be more conduction as it’s heating closer to the bowl. It can work well but overall...

There should be around 85pcs or 4.4g in the latest batch, level with the bottom of the ball screen threading.

Most customers didn't use the filter and it's not needed with the Tempest head. The MP got a bearing because it was slightly scraping the Ti on the top of the CU as it was spinning. Got rid of the DRC because customers were closing it accidentally (mostly without knowing that the feature was...

If you concentrate the heat to the same position it will be the same. Heating time also matters because there’s some lag. For example if you time out on the wand there is not much delay that way as it’s very slowly heating near the end. With a torch which will heat it quicker you’ll have to...

You probably want to push the glass cup a bit further down, make it level with the red silicone. Might want to increase the temp a bit as well. If the VI is moving too quickly is because the heat / coil is focused too low, near the indicator.

Yeah that's moving a bit too easily. Did you remove that o-ring? Make sure not to roll it too much when putting it on as that can also alter the size a bit. Please leave a note with your final parts order and I'll send a new o-ring. If you try to pull it off the magnet by holding the heat...

It should stay in place and be very tight normally, did you take off the o-ring and maybe put a smaller one in place? Make sure that's it's pushed onto the o-ring as far as it can go, you might need to lube the o-ring slightly, when it's completely dry it can be hard to push on. It should align...