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Yes, any battery measurements of any battery should have load to get an idea of the charge. It's really up to the load to determine the voltage drop and will be different pending what that load is. For example, if you insert a non metal stick into the hole to activate, it will be a much lesser...

If the performance is good and your getting reasonable battery life, I'd stay status quo. There are things to try/check to maybe give a little boost. Clean the battery contacts and check/reseat the main bullet connectors. Also, check the kill switch blade connectors for good bite. Anything a...

It's important to add which model we are talking about. @Summer, you have a PS and your own 18650 batteries. The voltage "sag" or dip from being under load will be different depending the battery rating. In theory, the higher the current rating the less sag will be observed. IMO, if fully...

The switch is there as a kill switch in case things go south. Without it, you'd be sitting there looking at a smoke generator without quick means to turn it off. Specially when it has being placed in an enclosure. Battery measuring systems only reads the voltage which will be much higher without...

It's a hard one to answer. I do know that 60% is around the recommended storage charge. But 7-10 days isn't that long so something else is at play. The PS, even in the ON state, draws zero current until the VC is inserted. There is no monitoring circuit at all. A misread on the meter initially...

It's fine to leave the JH plugged in. No current flows until the tube switch is pushed and activated. :)

Hmm, it's about 10 months old now, does it still feel clicky when you push down the VC? If not, it might be stuck down and needs a good cleaning. Take a paper clip and straiten it out. Now use pliers to bend one end to fashion a small hook. Insert between the button and o-ring until it rests low...

Yes, perfectly normal. It should drop at least one led when under the VC load. This is why it's good to check under load for a more accurate reading towards the lower end of charge. Other wise it will show full until the close to the end and drop off fast.

Yes, it's the FETs are gone. The reason is most likely quality issues but look for cold solders as well. I've gotten use to changing them. Twist those big coils as much as they will go so you can access the legs. Use hot iron with needle tip in good condition and put under each leg and prey up...

Hillbilly PA for TV. Official TV power supply WSU060-4000 + a BNC Female to PL259 male adapter. This will go inside the tube allowing you to push up against the upper contact. The 90 degree looks good. You just need to find a way to connect the supply to the BNC. Maybe something along these...

These NTD4806NG have being working out great. Not the highest specs in the world but good enough for our task. And we know what they are..... lol. Unlike the ones that come with it with no markings. At least not any of the ones I've changed out had markings on them.

You hit the same dilemma as me. Many bad batches these days. In fact, all have been bad since last fall it seems. I test a couple thoroughly from each new batch and sadly find they fail. At that point, I just change out 100% of the FETs for that batch. Found failure rate has gone way down to...

Hard to answer 100%, but I've taken care of any failures the best I can. If your unit has been running fine, there should not be anything to worry about. Semiconductor failures generally occur within the first few uses. Like most appliances, if you make it past a month, you should be good for a...

This is also an example of why not to use those connectors. Hard solder is best. Also, a good example of pushing these things past their limits. The VC is right up there pushing 6 amps or 72 watts. The advertised rating for the device is 100-120 watts depending on seller. I find many fail...

Use it for a for a couple cycles and see if things improve. This may just be a mis-reading of the battery indicator. You might have read it without load and it gave an indication of close to full. Always do the read while the VC is inserted and getting heated. :\

The BMS does have over voltage protection but it's rather high at 4.3 volt area. If the batteries were not new, this may have damaged one or all of them but very hard to say. If the unit functions for a while, then I'd say the BMS is likely fine. I have my money on the battery(s) :hmm:

Many supplies have trouble, even if rated over 6 amp. Here is what I wrote about it a few pages back. 8+ amp rating would be less likely to have any problems of shutting off. But are more expensive.

Was using round standard LEDs, now I use the square type as easier to fit into place. :science: 3 in series and a 470 ohm current limit resistor.

The BMS is in the wire harness where two wire split into the multipin connectors. It is a small board. (HX-3S-01)

If the battery pack has a harness with multiple wires, then no, it does not. Even some that only have the two wire only may be questionable unless it states it. It is an important layer of protection.