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Hi. I just finished up midterms, so I'm getting back into this. I got pretty good PID constants now, the vape hovers about 5C over. I will test later with the integral term turned down. I haven't gotten around to taking a pic, but the prototype is quite the contraption. lol. All kinds of wires...

It's the economics of the pcb's. I priced out a small board for a commercial service. I can get parts for 12-15vapes for $60 ($4-5 per unit). If I have to buy etchant, copper boards, etc it's getting near the same price once you factor in time. Also, when a commercial service makes a hole, they...

Gotta say, the stacked pcb are really awesome. Have you considered replacing the buttons with one knob and a power switch? If the vape just starts automatically when it's switched on, you could get the same functionality, but it's one less hole to deal with when you're making them. Maybe...

I don't mean only 256 out of 1023. My compiler scales a value of 0-256 (to 0-1023) to be the duty cycle. It just means it's 2 bits less resolution on the pwm. I didn't take the pictures today, but I will tomorrow.

Hey. Tomorrow I'll have some pictures of my prototype. I may solder up everything to a track board and stick it in. Lugging it around in breadboard has not been helpful. Every time I run it I gotta search for loose connections. Lol. My 5V model is working approximately the same for amperage so...

Yeah... I mentioned PID earlier in the thread, but w/e. The constants I'm gonna try next are P=200, I=.008, and D=.006.

I haven't looked through your code at all. I only code in C and don't plan on learning assembly. But I use PID control in my version. Before my control was tuned poorly, but PID is pretty much standard for heater control. I have some new constants that I haven't tried yet, but should...

Nice. I'm building current prototypes out of mason jars. It works fine with the controls remote, but I'm switching to putting everything inside.It'll work for your verson, but it'll be much harder for the lcd version. I'm gonna have to epoxy the lcd to the outside. This is too much work really...

Wait what? Drain definitely goes to + and Source to GND. Even your circuit diagram has it drawn like that. oh I think I got it. Disregard the shape though... I'll fix that once I figure out the connectors What connectors do you use for the power?

I dunno about the need to be in the heart of the oven. I have seen plenty of vape designs that heat the air and pump hot air through the bud. I just really want to try and see if I can get it to work where I can watch the bud vaporize.

My tentative name for my prototype is the Power Plant. The main difference between yours and mine is having a blank bowl vial that raises the vaping bud vial so it is visible. I'll have to do some temperture measurements to compensate for the difference. Or mount the thermocouple in the...

I also have my concept drawings from my prototype, but I don't wanna threadjack.

In other projects I've had the negative end going to the pic and positive end going to the + power line. I set the pin to 0 to turn on the LED. That is just the convention that I have been told to use the past. I guess it doesn't really matter. Here's a picture of the pcb files of you design...

I guess your resistors are lowering your current of your LED's anyway, but the pic can drain more current than it can supply. So if you put the negative end of the LED to the pic pin your maximum brightness is increased.

Also, you may want to think about the way the duty cycle led is hooked up. The failure state (atleast I've found) for the transistors is to be stuck on, it may be better to put the led in parallel with the heating coil. A resistor of a few hundred ohms will keep the LED from clamping the...

Do you have any problems with heat and your transistor. My current theory on how I break my stuff is overheating. The gate pin and transistors keep dieing after I expose them to the 12v line. I tried to increase cooling by attaching a piece of aluminum, but that hasn't seemed to help much...

I use a finger on the transistor to look for juice. Lol. I changed out the mosfet led, but I burnt it out trying to figure out wtf the mosfet is doing. I think I got it to work. It doesn't freak out with 5v like it does with 12v. I also tried unlidding the mason jar, so now I can lose more...

So I just tested the rig at home... 12v is retarded fast at heating up. The ready light doesn't even turn on, but I can definitely vape bowls, so I'm assuming there must be massive overshoot. I may need to do 5v just to keep the overshoot manageable. 12v=16A, 5v=6.66A.

I'd rather order a batch of pcb's. I'm gonna do it soon, just gotta make the files. I'm gonna make a set of my project and a set of your project. Edit: Woot! it works. I moved everything around in the breadboard. Turns out the max6675 was the culprit

For the gate voltages I've tried 3.3v and 5v. I'm short an LED right now, because one of them burnt out. I'm gonna head to the lab later and hopefully get this thing figured out. Oscilloscopes and lab bench supplies make the work much easier. I'm gonna be real pissed though is the problem is...