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I have an amboyna burl unit, it was owned by a couple of people before me. It came with the lowered mesh screen mod and I want to convert it back to the ccd configuration as I prefer a more restricted draw. Is this an easy refit without having that Simrell master key?

Sent you a DM, thank you.

So, ignoring the 510 altogether, where am I on the desktop Musa list? Just an estimate on where I am works for me, no rush, just curious. Or do I need to email you and request placement on just the desktop list?

I’m obviously missing something, or over thinking it. How does adding balls open up the airflow? I’m picturing more restriction for some reason. Is something removed from the air path to accommodate the balls?

Has anyone who joined the waitlist after June 2021 received a Musa yet?

Finally got around to opening my package today. It’s easy to see why these boxes were on clearance. The QC on these walnut boxes I received can not compare to that of the bamboo box I got a couple of years ago. The bamboo box is well made with an excellent fit and finish all around. These walnut...

Assuming you’re talking about the clearance boxes? That’s what I ordered on 10-29, two of them and they made it to me on 11-8. I honestly did not even pay attention to any of the email updates after the “order received” email. Looking back through my emails I received 5 total emails from them...

Yeah maybe it’s just different when it comes to accessories. I’ve only ordered an actual vape package once, a couple of years ago. Every subsequent order has been accessories and never an issue with those.

I feel your pain but this is so unlike my experiences ordering from Epic. I have never had any delays and have always received everything I’ve ordered. Most recent order was placed on 10-29-23 and was received on 11-8-2023. I’m sure it’s a YMMV situation and probably depends on what’s ordered...

The knob on the power supply has to be clicked in and then turned for it to respond. Bumping it will not make it change, you can also lock it at the current settings. No idea if it works in EU but I’d imagine you just need the proper power cord. Here’s the power supply used in the ATM...

Any use videos showing the BB stems in use with the CL?

Yes the REFC ATM is the one you want. May as well start with a dual because if you’re like me you’ll want to upgrade from the single. With the dual I can run multiple logs at once. The voltage almost always stays exactly where you set it, no knob to accidentally bump. You all have inspired me...

My experience with my Mi2 was so enjoyable right out the box, the feathering technique took just a few minutes to master. So pleasurable that I never even tried my Mi3, sold it new in box after reading so much about the Mi3 running hotter. I like it cooler not hotter, so bought a second Mi2 instead.

This is the way.

DM

Spare coils or spare Imps? Yeah those max temps are way outta my comfort zone, but I stay on the low end with all of my vapes most of the time.

I tried it on 3 different DNA mods, had each one recheck cold resistance and they consistently read it at .18. I’ll check it on Device Monitor as well this evening just to confirm. I don’t use a heat sink with it, and it was one of the last off the assembly line before MV shuttered, so maybe a...

Since I now have a matching controller for my bubinga CL, I’ll be forced to eventually buy a second CL in oak to match the original controller. It’s the right thing to do.

I’ll check the resistance on a few other AF and DNA mods this evening. That reading was from one of the cheaper dedicated wood grain looking Picos that I have, so maybe not the most reliable read. Thank you.

Did you set your resistance based on the cold read resistance of your Impcog, or did you use .219 because it just works for you? My cold read on my Impcog is only .179 or so, that’s why I’m asking. Good to have someone else’s config files to play with though, thank you.