Search results

Just took the router for a test drive, works nicely. I have the vapcap sitting ever so slightly higher than my normal builds. My normal depth has a spacer three wraps from the bottom. I am about 3 1/2 wraps from the bottom. First click 6sec, no vapour. Second click nice taste light vapour. Third...

My latest build based on the half pint, made to hide in plain sight "the router". I salvaged the power jack, and LEDs one for power and the world logo lights when the IH is active. The fire button uses the original WPS switch.

I pointed people from reddit r/inductionheaters to this thread. My hope is more people will work together and share ideas. @TommyDee after using a stopwatch. I get a solid 7 sec heatup from a cold vapcap, with a halfpint build.

The switch is 16mm. As for the half pint yes I get first click @6 sec insted of 5, still very happy with it.

Good video to understand induction heating. And looks like a simple circut to build:

Did the half pint treatment to my Hammond box build. The extra space allows the lid to close without feeling forced. Got rid of the MOSFET switch, also jumpered the onboard led pinout. To allow me to light up the tube when the fire button is pressed

Well removing one inductor and one cap works great. I did 5 back to back tests with this configuration no problems. Saves space and saves buying a MOSFET switch.

Again thanks for the pics and explaining. I just want to confirm the center tap and positive input share the middle unused pad at the output stage of the board. And a switch connects the pad and the positive trace, to allow the led and the fets to fire. Also my board is labeled MINI 028

Thank you, wow now I can make smaller builds. And from what I understand the system works the same missing a cap and a inductor.

Ok I think I got it now, you solder the two factory leads to the cap leads. Then you solder a center tap to middle of the coil, then solder that to the positive rail. Or solder it to a switch connected to the power rail. Also thanks for the pictures really helped.

Sorry but I seen on the first page one you made called the halfpint it has only one yellow inductor. And one cap that's the one I was asking about.

Dollar store memories box build. Another battery based build with onboard charging.

Thank you. Now I have some questions: #1 Are you running your test board off one inductor? If so is bridged to both FETS? #2 I know these boards can pull 6 to 7 amps when used for with a vapcap. Your cutting the trace and placing a switch there is the switch seeing the full current draw? Thanks...

I found this project box at my local electronics store. So the R2D2 drink cup got gutted and all the parts where stuffed in this box. The only real hack I had to do was move the inductors away from the main board. Parts I stuffed in the box: 3X 18650's BMS 3s charger 15A 400W MOS FET...

Ok had this for a month now and YES it is as good as they say. The build deck is great it allows for really creative builds. The crucible is a great idea keeps reclaim in one spot. This is the first atomizer I owned where the top cap is not a pain to remove. Air flow control is just right not...

Made a double stacked coil for my TRVP. My thinking is whatever drips from the first coil gets finished on the second.

Ok got it last night so far soo good. Made a goofy looking coil, but works good. Will spend more time with it before doing a review.

They should be sold out soon. I posted this on reddit and red flag deals.

On sale in Canada for $25 the V2 version: https://hazetownvapes.com/products/the-trap-atty-v2-blueprint-by-bb-vapes-brvnd

https://hazetownvapes.com/products/the-trap-atty-v2-blueprint-by-bb-vapes-brvnd