ty. they vary but generally $160.
PACT act (and changing consumer tastes) 100% ended things / can't continue like before. like trying to find the 2 post RDA bases... I have maybe 20 left I can make
Yeah I really fell in love with the design and when RBT went away, I wanted to keep the form factor alive in some capacity. I also offer repair service for them.
You can read more about my clone project here - https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/cosmic-xtractor.51740/
I would be able to ship...
the OEM is Loctite Hysol M-21HP or Loctite Hysol M-121HP (I think the cure color is the difference, not 100%), but they are a bit expensive and need an applicator gun.
There's a single use FDA epoxy people use for one off repairs - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTGVCWI should work fine
i tried to clean one of these screens with a torch before… don’t do that. it will turn it all kinds of random colors and look worse.
the only real fix is to remove the glass and replace the screen. but it will still look different
I haven't used a regular splinter nearly as much, so I don't know how optimal these settings are but this is what I've got set in the profiles - 42W, TCR125, 360F
the Z is just way way better unless you really value portability
what were you using before? it may just be the common v2 settings passed around are insufficient. the TCR 125 / -0 has a delta of 0.057 and the TCR 185 /-0.022 has a delta of 0.077, which is 35% higher.
you can lock ohms at 0 and use TCR 145 for comparable performance, or you can lock ohms at 0...
I dunno how other mods do it, but on arctic fox the cold ambient temp is set in the config, its 70F by default. looking at a Z -
ambient
cold ohm
TCR
temp
delta
live res
21.1
0.378
185
204.4
0.12818169
0.50618169
21.1
0.397
100
204.4
0.0727701
0.4697701
@GoldenBud no not close at...
I made a spreadsheet awhile back to help me understand TCR math, here's a link in case anyone wants to dive into the math a bit more - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/19rWRkrfSfqlYWCJpGu7Axa_TubS7fqiIlJ3Sex6WFrw/edit?usp=sharing
ex -
sheet 2 can be used to compare TCR values. at a...
depending on what kind of glue it shouldn’t be in the airpath regardless of temp. i don’t think the wood company pressed the panels together with medical epoxy. it’s just another material that wasn’t meant to be breathed through. at the end of the day it’s just a cost cutting measure. solid wood...
clearly, it’s some kind of plywood. and to argue it’s not is disingenuous. this is the kind of bs i point to when saying that any criticisms are not allowed.
of course it’s a layered wood glued together why would you even argue that point.
and my initial comments about the airpath were because...
you’re unlikely to damage the heater from any TC that is set properly.
but the main source of damage to these units is if the wooden body is allowed to get too hot with no airflow going through it pulling the heat out. at a certain temp the glue will fail and the glass will fall out or the base...
late update to the repair - turns out the power supply was failing also. it would drop from 12v to about 9v, and the supply would get hot but the vapbong didn’t heat up. the coil repair worked and after swapping supplies it’s back to functional. 12v drops about .3v instead
I know but it looks so constricted and ugly :D
exhibit A, look how narrow - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0017/1828/8436/products/20221108_095821_2048x2048.jpg?v=1667919908
exhibit B, look how convoluted - https://i.ibb.co/wZHrJYw/20221115-225947846.jpg
edit: I think i quoted the wrong...