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^ 100%. There is/was a single use medical epoxy option on amazon for $12. You can DM me if you need help fixing. I have some glass pieces made up / available still.

Dunno if related, but when checking cold resistance I will usually hit fire button for less than a second to send some power through and then wait a few mins to see if it settles down. I dunno if its from oxidation or what, but it seems like I don't get a true reading until it does a micro burn...

wattage mode is inferior. you may want a preheat setting. TCR is def better. you can try covering the air holes like carbs. a regular splinter? doesnt really compare to a Z either. you can try varying your grind consistency too. also agree with playing with your inhale.

5309 (jenny) Convector XL good luck to everyone. thank you for doing the contest

Drew / Drewby

Quick mini update - I got laid off over a year ago and have not found anything yet. I will need to downsize and sell my house and will be losing my workspace. I have some units on hand but there will probably not be anymore produced. Hopefully things change at some point in the future. Thank...

Some, but you don’t really want this to happen. the glass getting warm will weaken the epoxy holding it in. i’m pretty sure that’s what causes the glass to just fall out in some units. The whole selling point of these on demand 510s is they heat quickly, you hit quickly, they cool down, not...

I got curious and just checked. It’s a DIY thermal camera and not really calibrated but i have checked it on some reference temps and it’s fairly close. Reading around 500f-550f with peaks to almost 600f, with TCR 110 set to 360f. Bounces around a bit because the regulation isn’t that tight...

0.216 maybe? confirm against whatever it is reading now as a cold live value.

I don't know tbh. Contact the maker and ask their advice to be sure. Generally speaking, temp control depends on resistance value, TCR value, temp value. You have been adjusting temp but need to confirm the other two values. There's usually a resistance value written inside the battery cover or...

It could be worth checking calibration on it after sitting that long (TCR/resistance)

I do them in small batches and occasionally post for sale on EntExchange or you can DM me about one if interested. Here's a few (album) - bonus fun project, a multi 510 stand (album)-

like flattening the basket to flare the sides out? they do fit better but then they dont seem to hold as much flower or work as well in my experience

I only ever tried grinding down to 19/19 once, I was not happy with the results - it makes basket screens not fit. A diagram example would help but consider the opening inner diameter on the 19/26 is a certain size, that fits the baskets well. when you cut off the 7mm, the ID of the opening...

this sounds right, just gotta practice the on/off button. make sure to use a dimpled cooling stem - it will let you push higher temps without being as harsh

milaana 2 is a god damn masterpiece

This is an excellent project and im sure has served as a form of reference for me subconsciously, I remember seeing that CNC'd wood cover. Was really hoping to avoid adding the thermocouple but i did buy some to play around with months ago No, it needs more road testing but my personal life...

yeah. it wouldnt know exact temps. it would be more like wattage mode that turns on and off on its own to try to maintain a steady temp

Sure, looking at a module like - https://www.amazon.com/Anmbest-High-Power-Adjustment-Electronic-Brightness/dp/B07NWD8W26 using a PWM signal to turn the heater on/off on a duty cycle that gives you the temp you're looking for. just that module + a microcontroller + fire button basically...

lol I thought about it. at that point I would probably go to all-in-one only kinda style since the mods are all gone now too, there isnt much left to screw them into. it might be kinda interesting, get away from TCR/temp control stuff... just like a wattage PWM profile... arduino controller...