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Not to mention it could be a bit dangerous. As far as I understand, the molicels are not only high capacity, but specially designed for high output, it ain't just the amps, but how many a second. And over stressing a less high specced battery could cause it to overheat with possibly, er...

Then you know better than I, though I was taught to be pragmatic about it, and to focus the annealing at the places where the stresses were more likely to occur, which is why I mentioned the joints and the fact the mouthpiece is less of an issue than them. I bow to your experience! To be honest...

If I had to guess, I'd imagine something like SiC would be better for cooling, high heat conduction, high density, so it can suck up heat quickly, and hold a fair old bit too. I think from memory ruby's are lower conduction so take longer to heat/cool. I wonder if stainless steel bearings would...

Difficult to judge I think, unless you mean natural ruby (which I'd guess are unlikely to be better anyway), as I believe synthetic rubies are moderately cheap and easy to manufacture, and as far as their physical properties are perfectly good for their use.

Another useful tip (for klutz's like me, at least) is to take care of how many balls are in there and how well packed they are. If there are too many, or they haven't settled as much as they can, the extra height prevents the screen from engaging correctly with the cap's internal thread. First...

Hence my comment about the joints being the most vulnerable parts. Also parts that may be exposed to high temp changes such as where a cap and head may meet the glass (especially if metal touches glass). But the part near the mouthpiece, for instance, isn't going to receive that much stress...

Been a VERY long time since I did glassblowing, and that was basic stuff for wet lab glassware, so I never messed with stuff like beads etc, but I would imagine a competent blower could add the beads after the annealing and then simply add a minor restriction to the inlet path to retain them. In...

Probably not annealed properly. Annealing bungs the price up as it uses a lot of energy for a relatively long time (some things may even anneal for weeks, even months), and this is why a new bit of glass that's cheap, is almost always cheap for a reason. There's really no other way to make glass...

Simply 'redact' any worrying words with a permanent marker, and the batteries will instantly become safe for use in a vape! [The poster hereby takes no responsibility for any, er, 'accidents' in following any advice above! Or not. Maybe ...]

You can also use the table linked to here (on MH site) for the different ball's that may be in the head. I find the temps are only a guide and depend on how you set up and use the thing, so I wouldn't treat them as gospel. https://madheaters.co.uk/pages/ball-material-comparison

I had no idea WC Fields used a vape cart! I'm shocked!!

I seem to recall someone asked that not so long ago and I think @Brenyo intimated it wasn't dead, but didn't give much detail - try a few searches? Maybe @Brenyo can update?

Yeah, I though a 2" wide jar with an airtight screw top lid that you could also use to fill the vape over (catch the bits that fall) would be far more useful for the OP from their comments. I love the reload as it fits so well with the Tempest (by design) and makes it twice as easy to use. I use...

I was a little surprised that those were your chosen shortcomings and yet ignored all the other functions built into the Reload. It's very much more than a herb storage pot - a debowler/avb store, a screwdriver, a screen placement tool, a tamper, two different ways to use as a heat sink and cap...

Personally I find more air going through at a decent rate (suckin' a little hard, not very slowly or it cools too fast for it to heat up more) will raise the temps, so the airflow control will effect it. But this also depends on the ball type, the temperature, how densely the bowl is packed, but...

That is definitely a factor, it takes a little experience with it to get used to what it can and can't take, heat/airflow wise. I think, especially for those who like dark roast, having a few combusts is an important part of sussing out the limits. And that fuckin' 'orrible taste certainly...

I bought mine almost the same time as you, though I got mine in the UK so it's possible they've changed design but I got the same version as MH used. Though this is the first time I've heard any suggestion of this which seems odd, but who knows? All I can say is I set it up as shown on their...

Not that I've noticed. Set mine up as described on MH's site (but maybe 1mm further in with the insert position), and both my beta (last Feb) and a release version second cap & bowl (to bung on a revolve2) and they both work fine in my Wand.

... and swear blind you'll pull out before . . . oops! 😖

It'll be ball's deep of course! 😂