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If you have any other mesh screens use the Ruffu for a template and simply cut out a slightly larger version with scissors, I only used the DDave jobs as they are Ti and I already had them.

Just pull on the spiral while gripping the sides of the MP. If your unit has been used a bit there may be a little vapor residue built up making it stick so try running the unit for a couple of dry puffs to heat things up and make disassembly easier.

The Dablamp has no atty that will need frequent (PITA) maintenance like most e-rigs and the new herb attachment just increases the unit's versatility as it is actually very good at dry herb too (unlike most supposed dual use vapes). Just make sure the GrassCity sale item comes with the newly...

This with hot water is how I cleaned mine before use (hung in my ultrasonic cleaner for a while first).

They are round and restrictive as they only have a tiny hole in the mushroom head, one of mine had the exit hole on the side of the mushroom.:lol:

Dynavap stems may also fit but some thicker examples may stretch the silicon glass holder after time. If your problem persists (sounds like it is/will) please contact our customer service line and we will work to find a solution for you. Email: Support@xvapeusa.com Phone: 9095171100 :tup:

The gasket is needed for the native MP to seal. The best flavour bump is to get a @VaPeD&CoNfUsEd WPA and use a j-hook or bong. In the interim, or the cheap way(slightly ugly too),

Ceroma just has holes in the ceramic, no steel mesh (apart from the top hat mesh with mine as I never received the top nut as it was a gift to test balling)

My B2cvape had a Ti plate with machined holes that I replaced with a mesh screen so I could fit more rubies inside.

I got sent 200x4mm gem cut rubies by mistake (therefore for free!) and they perform pretty well the same as 3mm round ruby (due to the reasons mentioned above), might look better/pretty in a Qaroma though.:2c:

Many makers, not knock-offs, I have the one you posted on order to try!

No, will not hold in the roasting tube. Lower temps (never over 180c/355 unless on a bong myself) and the WPA/glass mouthpiece fitted directly over the cooling unit (CU) cuts out most of the black silicon and improve flavor noticeably when the unit is brand new. The silicon seems to fully cure...

Wow, that brings back memories!

+1 but the hacks I mentioned before with replacing the stamped plate help...a bit!

I took a 5" angle grinder to my Rattle-can that had a similar break to smooth all the sharp bits. It is now my spare RC but still gets a run on occasion.

You should have got 2x spares, even in the lite kit, under the q-tips in the pic, some only found them in the pack after looking again. I have asked them to be added to the site but I would recommend the ones I linked as they fit better IMO and are only $2 for 30.

It fits and holds well, so yes.:tup:

OG=original The listing pictures say...VMQ(vinyl methyl), This material maintains performance in extremes of temperature with a continuous working temperature range of -60 to 230C. That is being optimistic...more like 3-4 months for mine (I got mine free as they were over a 2 months late)...

I never got the cap (already broken) but the threads are fine...thanks to @felvapes donating it to me to twist my arm into balling...I added the hose clamp for safety(:lol:) but it was a tight fit with my coil.

Do you have the old convex bottom BCG? I find this is a little more comfortable in the hand (at least the large version) than the OMD.