The thicker joint is called an "Uber" joint, meaning it is extra thick compared to a standard ground glass joint. Compare:
http://www.mountainglass.com/Female-19-22-Joint-100mm-Import-150.html
to
http://www.mountainglass.com/Female-19-22-Extra-Uber-Joint-95mm-Import-264.html
Check out Fishbone Glassworks: https://www.facebook.com/fishbone.glassworks?ref=ts&fref=ts
or http://www.glassrepair805.com/
For repairs
Haven't used either personally but I have heard good things
Haha check out the "Ago X" on alibaba...
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/2014-New-product-ago-electronic-cigarette_1582107080.html?s=p
looks a little familiar...Anyone willing to take the risk?
I believe the standard response is that the Omicron Light has "better electronics" but the two are basically the same? Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
I'd like to see a shot where they aren't purposely obscuring the downstem of the piece, looks like it still pulls some water into the bong on the hard draw.
Looks similar to Hoobs glass trophy perc that came out a couple years ago:
http://aqualabtechnologies.com/hoobs-glass-original-trophy-perc-bubbler.html
Interesting, reminds me a lot of the MagickWand that kind of petered out:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/magickwand-vaporizer.3159/page-6#post-149556
Big fan of the form factor, glad someone is pursuing it!
Something with an inline might be a good idea, or a showerhead. You could even request a specific number of cut in your showerhead depending on how much diffusion you want
Is it the straight or bent stem? I have successfully used a wooden chopstick with the end shaved down to a narrow point to poke the screen up so I can grab it with tweezers or a normal poker, hope that helps.
The important thing is that the piece you are trying to add is the same COE (coefficient of expansion) as borosilicate glass. This depends on the specific mix of elements forming the glass. If the COEs do not match, there will be too much internal tension between the two types of glass and cause...