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I've seen some people dislike the titanium handpiece, but it's my personal favorite. It allows you to get thicker hits off smaller loads (.25g is basically against the 14mm nozzle, I'm usually packing like .15g), way easier to clean, and completely unbreakable. I find the screens clog pretty...

Ah, not sure what size they are as I used Dynavap screens to block balls from coming out of the 14mm male titanium part. I also put one at the front to help with herb blowing into the heater. With the quartz dish installed you may not need the screen as the threaded end of the 14mm male part...

I specifically used these silicon nitride (Si3N4) balls. So far as I can tell; SiC, Si3N4, and ruby are pretty similar in terms of thermal properties (conductivity and specific heat), but I'm no mechanical engineer so someone may know better. Borosilicate takes longer to heat soak and doesn't...

Yes, with 3mm ceramic balls and no dab dish. With the dab dish, I can fit less than fifty balls and it does allow me to drop the heat slightly and get the same hit. Without the dab dish I can fit nearly 200 balls, and I can park just above noon on the dial to get massive rips. Without any mods...

When I really milk my Solo II on a bubbler it's at max temp 428F/220C. I would expect good flavor at 383F/195C and below, but not the largest clouds. Aside from temperature, your herb can always affect cloud production. I have some stuff that just isn't very potent and doesn't milk up any...

FYI: I was wrong. Do NOT use boro balls, I did end up with some fusing. I was surprised, considering the heat rod is reported to max out at 900F. I'm pretty sure they're legitimate borosilicate as I bought them from the VapeCritic's shop when he was doing the G43. So ruby or ceramic (silicon...

The alien hands comment really got me 😂 Just a short dude with small hands I guess, and mine must not have been quite as stuck. I’m afraid you’re gonna have to invest in some cheap pliers. You might only need one pair, just to grasp the white rod. Maybe if you have a small pair of tongs you...

I’ve never had to do it with the device on like he does in the video. With it off, I can usually hold the white base with my hand and apply a turning force on the titanium nozzle with my other hand to get it unstuck.

You can get balls under the quartz dish, maybe less than fifty, and there is a minor improvement. You wouldn’t want to dab without the dish because then the heater is exposed and oil could leak into it, not to mention it’d just be a mess.

Inspired by this r/vaporents post, I removed the quartz dish and filled it will borosilicate balls. You have to be careful that they are borosilicate (or ruby, ceramic, or etc.) otherwise they can fuse to the heater. Obviously this removes the ability to dab, but I rarely have access to any. I...

I see 12 o’clock recommended often, but I would go as high as 3 o’clock to really rip a bowl. Recently I’ve tried putting borosilicate balls in my Ditanium head, completely replacing the quartz dish (inspired by a r/vaporents post). That gets my dial down to around 1 o’clock for thick rips.

Mine struggled to keep up under a ceiling fan on high, so I wouldn’t have great hopes about running it outside in the winter. Maybe if you had some kind of lid over the top to prevent losing so much heat.

My grind is fine, I think I just stir for too long at too high a temp. I have a tendency to try to squeeze out every last drop. I end up with like a brown powder in my handpiece and tubing. I assume it’s from stirring and tamping too much. What are people’s load, draw, stirring, and tamping...

On a similar topic, how do people stop their whips and water pieces from becoming absolutely plastered in herb particulate? Is it just the nature of the beast because of stirring, or is their some trick I’m missing?

@an0maly - totally normal! It entirely depends what glass piece you’re using. I find that the larger the draw resistance on the piece, the more blowback occurs when you stop drawing. If you just hold your packed hand piece upright and draw from your bubbler, you’ll be able to watch it launch...

I let it heat soak for at least 15 minutes, but I’ve let it heat soak for an hour+ between sessions. I am drawing a little slower and getting better results at noon. I think I also just need to adjust my expectations. I usually take my herb to just about as far as it’ll go. Noon certainly isn’t...

My dial is straight down (pointing to 6 o’clock when off. Maybe I’m just not being patient enough at noon on the dial.

So I’ve been playing with the Ditanium again after having shelved it for a while. I discovered that part of the trouble I was having, was using it under a ceiling fan. I would have never thought it would have cooled It so much, but I was hardly getting clouds with the dial maxed out. However...

@godisatomato

What was there advice in the end? I shelved mine for a while because I was having similar issues.