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My guess is it takes some fiddling with the clip to get enough tension to hold the pan in place. It's not all that sealed, really, in the original. I don't think there's much difference this way really, especially in the usual 'heat then hit' mode. Sure, you can open it up hot if you want...

Yep they cool off faster than most for sure. Which is both good and bad. Little or no warning can goof your plans up OTOH having performance taper off leads the the 'frog in a pan' issue as guys compensate for gradual decline. At first I think it's a good plan to rotate batteries early so...

A clever fellow has built a minimalist VM by removing the stuff not necessary to the prime task. Kind of a VM hot rod if you will. He took the pan and removed the tubes and the ring. Then he used a metal clip (through two of the tube holes) to retain the pan in the correct place on the center...

You might try the next size up screen, 5/8 inch in fine mesh. I used to slightly dome them, install them dome up then press the center flat after they were installed. Two benefits, it stays in place and while it takes little space the entire area is open below so it has much more area to foul...

Truth be known, after playing some at 210F then shifting to 220 I inched the power up a bit at a time. I'd decided on 12.5W but noticed it'd somehow ended at 12.6. There has been some discussion of moving the power up a bit as the doughnut 'breaks in'. The results are a bit different using my...

Yes, thank you, it's been brought up here before a couple of times. In fact there's a thread specifically on the topic: http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/study-of-various-vaporizer-brands.20444/ Nice to get some recognition alright. OF

I especially like the home made rubber bands on the second example, bike inner tube? Gives it that real 'prison made' feel, doncha think? OF

Yes, those are two of the reasons I do it....... Also to reduce the load size and keep a greater percentage of it against the glass or facing the cup. You don't "need" one (or Arizer would include them......), but IMO they are an improvement. Only one way for you to determine if they will be...

I'd suggest starting out at no more than 11 Watts (as directed on the DT site) until you get to know it. No higher. Don't go above that as it can get too hot (especially when running low, which it does often holding so little). Then, when you get a grip on loading etc, shift to TC mode (using...

It's easy to do pushing too hard. Most NiMH makers consider it fatal to let it get below 1 Volt or so, unlike NiCds. The do much better with a fresh charge anyway. As soon as I notice them slow down (lower heat, longer wait) I swap them. The key is to have spares ready so you're not tempted. OF

Again, it's designed specifically for folks that know nothing about electronics. Very English language like programming, no need to know Volts, Amps and so on. You pick a pin (say to turn charging on) by number, tell the program whether it's an input or output (output in our case), analog or...

In this case you're really in luck. I intentionally used this class of microprocessors because they are designed to be a teaching tool for students in other disciplines. So artists can put movement and flashing lights and stuff in their works. And students can learn. Arduino, specifically...

Never deep discharge them, keep them cool and recharge correctly and you can get many hundreds (perhaps over 1000?) 'cycles' from them. It'll be a 'diminishing returns' deal, they'll get weaker and weaker until you break down and buy replacements then you'll avoid using them further. Not to...

Yes, absolutely. Condensate can be extremely potent (especially for folks that don't normally do concentrates or eatables). .1 gram can seriously screw up guys used to even larger weights of bud that might be 15% or so to start and is only partially delivered (like some good stuff gets left in...

You're welcome. Very clever 'piling on the risks' in the breaking glass game. True Pioneering stuff. I sure wouldn't let @Ataxian know what you're up to. He's likely to try to copy the idea. Like using heavy gloves to handle the glass. Gloves covered in grease. He's like that. OF

Gentle Friends, After much effort I've managed to really foul up a shallow 2.5 base. I used a couple grams of some 'tasty but dirty' Sour Diesel Wax I had left over from my switch to CO2 oils. It had managed, over time, to dry down to a much harder concentrate. Still almost as nice and just...

Good luck. Be sure to put your car keys in a safe place...... And remember to use whole milk. Even add a shot or two of heavy cream. It's the milk fat that does the work, try it with non fat or skim milk and you're SOL even if it 'washes off' the stem and into the drink it won't make it into...

And if it's not out of warranty, return is cheaper and easier unless you're overseas, behind restrictive customs or other situations that make it difficult to return for service.....in which case..... And the fact that Arizer sells factory battery packs is a factor as well I think. OF

I would not bet on that, we've no idea how long who has been in possession of either plans or an actual unit. Looked at the other way, why would legit ones be on the gray market this quickly? That is if you had genuine ones, the usual channels would suck them up at better prices? Demand...

True, but they could easily make thicker walls without detracting from the Station? Indeed. "Manufactured Wood", fine laminations like is used in some gunstocks, might be fun. Or composites, like a section of Carbon Fiber tube. I've no idea how crazy you really are, but it can't be all that...