Search results

When in doubt, go bigger :rockon:

I've been working on the HalfPint FlatPack IH since the A'20 arrived. I am sold on this form-factor as a table-top piece. I like the HalfPint circuit because it is a very hot bake and very controllable. While I was letting the FlatPack charge, I decided to see how hot the A'20 actually is...

Looks like it'll come with a free dab cap! You Dog! @thunderstealer1337 :disgust:

@Planck :tup:

Now being sent from ...wha'haaaa da 'hoohooeee? Guess they found the 17-18 missing boxes in Texas.

I'm still struggling with just charging the batteries. The A'20 helped kick start that effort. I burned out another MT3608 boost driver. It was a fluke of sorts but it sure raan hot putting out only 1 watt. I wonder if that is a cross-talk problem that Piggy ran into. I adjusted the voltage...

I had to resort to the warranty route to get that. I was sure to ask for a future event rather than an immediate request for warranty service. I don't think we're making a dent in their daily concerns. They're stuck on Reddit and Instagram for hype and spin. We don't put up with that shit here.

And a rely from ToggenGear with regard to battery exchange...

I've tuned my 2 DD caps to pull with a magnet. Keeping a magnet on hand is another challenge. I really love avoiding combustion using a 'quick cap removal' or QCR technique. If you get an incling the load is combusting - stop drawing and remove the cap. If it combusted smoke will bust out...

Still no answer on the battery exchange program either.

Oh now that is interesting. I'll have to test that. Was the BMS using the discrete charge circuits or the one intelligent chip?

Mag Heaters is closest that I can tell.

Interesting followup on the warning about the current draw on the Micro-USB board. There is a drain current of 102.2K-ohm across the output of the boost converter. This represents as much as 126ua draw (0.126ma). If my math is right, that is well over a year of neglect. However, it is a real...

Seems all the makers settled on silicone heat shields. Any adjustment of an IR lensing requires calibration. You need to focus that 10mm cap into a 2mm diameter image. Now you have a good amount of 'photons' to send a signal from the detector disc. A weak signal only gets lost in the noise...

I think this is what @RedEyeFlightControl is up to. The basic thermometers can be tuned for the cap, but the lens needs to be changed. I am not sure if the photo-black tube behind the plastic lens is metal or not. However, the spherical lens conversion would cover the refocusing of the...

oh sorry, there are development kits listed a few pages back... https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sparkfun-electronics/SEN-10740/1568-1027-ND/5140792 It's actually a sparkfun device but I know Digikey has them available. This same or similar sensor can be ripped out of an IR...

We need to concentrate the 'image'. Remember that the IR thermometers use a Fresnel lens to focus the 'image' onto the sensor.

IR light can be focused. Consider a sphere for focusing the light. Has to be the right material I think. @badbee - the rate of heatup with changes the rate and final temperature at the flat face of the tip is a result of direct heating and indirect heating. Using a PID system, you can control...

Putting the thermister into the load is about the only meaningful data. The cap is like capturing the remnant of an event that happened ages ago. The delay in response and the variability in response makes it a reference at best. IR is the way to go for cap temp, but how the IH treats the...

Look back a few pages :brow: