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Hmm I don't see it now but I thought he made a post. Maybe it was on his story, I can't recall.

Another update, this grinder uses primarily 303 stainless steel not 316 like the previous though I don't have a concern with either.

I'm guessing that blue ring comes out with the screen when you lift out the little nub in the middle. @Manity I'm in the same Canadian boat, I'm not sure I want to shell out $180 CDN plus potential taxes, fees, etc. that could push it over $200. You gotta pay to play with these SS grinders but...

Here are some answers to my above questions from their IG. More photos will be coming as well if you follow them on IG. I don't know if @UnitedMike is still active here. -"There is a step that the kief screen sits on so kief has a seperate chamber to collect in. The screen is optional so it can...

You are on point @Drug I just noticed it went live as well. So the anodized aluminum piece is an insert to maintain a find grind, I get it know. On the one hand I'm not a fan of the plate because I wonder how much trichrome goodness is going to get wedged under that piece. In use that could be...

While using my TM yesterday I noticed if I go above 7 in the temp dial I need to stir again even with the @dzoinp screen mod. Not a big deal and the resulting roast still appears more even then when I use the device stock. I'm finding myself staying below temp 7 anyways or the flavour drops too...

I like it on a rig but I need to time my button pressing or I could easily combust. I'll count 1-2-3 (button depresses) 1 (button released) and repeat. I don't start timing until after the first, long coil warmup hit. Those numbers can change a bit depending on ambient temperature, if my flower...

@Unklmark68 has a really nice bubinga Z with blue glass on auction on Instagram if anyone is looking. I pulled out my Z last night as I was jumping through devices and was reminded why I love it so much. @RastaBuddhaTao made a post on Instagram as well that makes me think RBT may be coming...

I meant to come back to this as I had to double check both my XL's which are definitely ¼ turn. I thought someone else mentioned 1/2 turn but I can't find the comment. Is your HR the regular sized one? Seems very odd to me, maybe a manufacturing mix up but ai doubt that.

I thought there was something fragile about it and this is the best detailed explanation I've seen why. So if someone is going to disassemble they need to be very careful, got it! Edit: Started my morning with the Tinymight trying to kick a migraine I could feel setting in before my VaporBong...

They posted a picture of the part on their Instagram feed but not exact details. A reply from them to one of the comments said it's aluminum but not part of the grinding process.

Thank you for the info! An aftermarket body would be very easy to make happen it looks like. I was under the impression that coil was very delicate and I wasn't sure why. Thanks for clearing that up!

So what is the danger when removing the coil? If you're gentle is there nothing to be worried about?

So the screw that attaches it to the main board screws in from below? I thought these were spring loaded or something when you removed the screw?

I watched one of his videos so maybe I'm not remembering, remembering :hmm:. Or maybe it's the sheer amount of vapour coming out of this beauty.

If you can't find another stem or at least immediately get ahold of some glass balls to put in your short stem. If you're in the US they're very easy to find. I use 4mm boro but 6mm would work good and there's a listing on Ebay I'm pretty sure. You don't need many, you keep it a little loose but...

The heater itself is kanthal wire wrapped around and then through a tube of ceramic afaik. It hits pretty hard and maintains heat well I've found and I have mine in some cooler ambient temperatures. Once it heat soaked it's pretty stable. I've been leaving mine on all day and coming back to it...

I completely agree, visual is much easier for me as well. That's what I liked about the J-hook (until I smashed mine), you can very easily see everything going on. Sometimes I can't tell if I'm getting a blast of intense vapor or the start of combustion.

That's good, it's a really good device! The Mi3 would be harder to learn than my 2 if it's an consolation. 19/19 is the joint size on the Mi3. Adapting to go through water is the best route but even through a J-hook or another dry piece will make a big difference. As @Shit Snacks said, it's...

It is too bad. If they would have survived and learned from their mistakes they could have made a really killer follow up device. The biggest thing to be learned from the MV-1 is the complex vapour path and how cool it makes the hits. Disrupting laminar airflow gives super cool hits!