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phew! what I always do, and you can try too, is to say "shit!" then move onto something else, quickly, only to remember weeks later. then, if you're lucky, the universe will have made it work. alternately, dig in deep, immediately, and start taking the damn thing apart already... it'll either...

yeah, thats why I still suck at anything but a under dog or a hopper through water

Nah bossman didnt, but that EE post was for a "v1" but it was NOT a china (blue glass, square top, serial base) just curious. that said, v1 (2, + etc) is a tricky "official" model number as v. is what anyone would normally append to something just out of habit. oh yeah, I much pefer my two...

are the og US Splinters V'd? I always assume chinese v1/2s

@ACE OF VAPE any thoughts? home repair possible? drive it to ya? lol

is that true? 200+ for the VZs? sheesh man that 45 is less than the mod (espion shipped at 50+)

i gotcha before, but i think you meant splinter off mod, not deck out of wood...

I'm also stoked on the NX. New to me, but sweet. Def reminds me of all the "its not about the clouds" stuff i read as I first started in with vaping (coughMFLBcough)- perfectly stealthy hits from the Klaxon-volume look of the brightly lit biocontainment module One I got only came w flower...

I agree w JBM; great explanation. thats how it seems (stoner engineering) but I dont have any of the mental chops to know WHY it seems that way. Kudos to your thoughtfulness... Now, @bossman that espion: was whatever previous deal even cheaper than the link you just posted? and worth it...

yep that was my next question, my understanding is that its just mesh screen, so no worries cutting? also, whether it was always that way or since it started spinning, that stray was essentially wrapping from one side of the insulating shim to the other. how much does it matter if it "shorts"...

that sounds like how i got the slippery z off the MOD (indeed a trick in itself) but so far no luck getting the deck out of the canary barrel. in fact, Ive had to get it off the mod a few times now, as its the only way I have to get any leverage to spin, tug, or pull the Z at all... unless I'm...

indeed, which is why I think I've exhausted his "try this" patience. $50 to fix, not a ton, but too much for epoxy. that said, i dont want to break it, so may be worth the piece of mind. in any case, too much for the moment....haha:cry: Not that it was necessarily intentional, but it WAS on a...

yeah, kind of just worried ill crush the wood sleeve if I squeeze hard enough to gain purchase, just thoouht id see there was a "trick"

ok gents, I may have exhausted unklmarks advice good will: I have a Canary Z, the deck has started to spin in the wood. only when on a mod (no leverage when on its own) I hear a skriiiitch sound as the heater rubs the glass.. Mark warned that Canary is brittle, and to be careful, but thus far...

any chance its (fairly) easy to replace glass internals? mine tipped 6" or so while hot and maracas now

Damn kids.

thanks guys only worry then is (especially w loctite, but even just w torque: that I get it stuck tight, but in whatever way I had it when it would go: click on; WHITE; off... what if I get it to not come off, AND THEN I NEED IT TO COME OFFFFF? gahhhhh

Yeah, That's my do: heat to loosen and twist off, but def not that infrequent, I'm every other time...

mmmkay. So, smh, here we go again... Firstly, how are the IOs faring in regards to warranty turnaround? I ask, because my stainless IO has taken to unscrewing the heater from the battery when I remove the mouthpiece. The battery contact and heater stay with the mouth (og or PFE). I can screw...

Center bottom unnnh