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The Tempest by Mad Heaters & Phatpiggie
- Thread starter oddjobold
- Start date
Alligator427
Well-Known Member
In your dream. It is only pre-order.
Yes an it’s the only place where you can pre-order it now
Alligator427
Well-Known Member
Yes an it’s the only place where you can pre-order it now
Pre-order of lcv ... And it is quit expensive for the moment. I preffer to check on madheaters website.
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New Tempest 2 owner here. I never owned the original. Can you please help me with how the tip airflow is moved around/changed? I'd like to try what you mentioned but I don't know how to go about changing my airflow from the tip. Any tips/pics would be great.. please and thank you all
Dirigible_Molecule
Retired rebel.
The screw on top releases it so you can rotate. 8)
Oh. Ok. So just a mini flathead and it will start to loosen up for air flow? Thanks kindly
Yes, just loosen the screw and it will start to turn.Oh. Ok. So just a mini flathead and it will start to loosen up for air flow? Thanks kindly
Same exact situation here lol
So, ive tried unscreweong the top screw and backing it off quite a bit and using the screwdriver that came with the V1 to try and unscrew the ball retaining screen. Alas, that ball retaining screen barely moves. I can turn it a few millimeters left and right, but can't turn it further. It doesn't seem to "catch" normal matter how much force im using.
Ive tried the debowler from a reload with no luck as well. I need to grab a eye glasses screw driver and see if it have any better luck.
I've ended up accidently chipping the some of the outer most layer of the V1 screwdriver/debowler by using so much force on the retaining screen.
Would it be possible to unscrew the head from the top screw and change the balls out?
Im going to ask my mother and brother to hunt down a flathead screwdriver for eye glasses to drop off of to me today since he'll already be here to drop off my first doses of humera. Closed mouths dont get fed!
Ive tried the debowler from a reload with no luck as well. I need to grab a eye glasses screw driver and see if it have any better luck.
I've ended up accidently chipping the some of the outer most layer of the V1 screwdriver/debowler by using so much force on the retaining screen.
Would it be possible to unscrew the head from the top screw and change the balls out?
Im going to ask my mother and brother to hunt down a flathead screwdriver for eye glasses to drop off of to me today since he'll already be here to drop off my first doses of humera. Closed mouths dont get fed!
Doug.dimmaglow
Member
We’re in July, and they say the pre-order plans to ship at the end of June
I pre-ordered through them when it opened up last time and haven’t gotten an update to it yet.I just did this this morning. If you happen to have a spectacles/glasses screwdriver, they work perfect. At all Dollar/Walgreens/CVS stores they are.
kokolokokolokon
Well-Known Member
The official sizes and my simplified version.
Edit: if you want the wood shield to "touch" the upper zone of the stem, i think the length should be 52-53mm
The v1 and v2 ballscreens have different mechanisms. The v2 one won’t work on the v1
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Houston, we have liftoff..!
I was able to get the ball retaining screen out after ny brother dropped off an eye glasses repair kit.
Even though it was a tiny handle, it gave me the extra oomph and torque that I was missing before.
I've just been diagnosed with AS, so im sure that wasn't helping in the screw turning department.
I went ahead and threw some quartz balls in there tonight. Probably play around with that for a a few hours and swap them out in the afternoon.
Im very happy to have gotten this head open and have the option to change balls. That was driving me pretty nutty every time I'd fail to open it day after day.
Does anybody ever find the VI catching on either the wall of the wand/adapter when heating? It seems that if i dont have the head angled in there juuust right, the VI seems to catch. Ive been resorting to holding the V2 while heating in the wand while giving it a slow spin or raise it up and down a few MMs and that seems to not make it get stuck/locked in place for a short period in the wand
I was able to get the ball retaining screen out after ny brother dropped off an eye glasses repair kit.
Even though it was a tiny handle, it gave me the extra oomph and torque that I was missing before.
I've just been diagnosed with AS, so im sure that wasn't helping in the screw turning department.
I went ahead and threw some quartz balls in there tonight. Probably play around with that for a a few hours and swap them out in the afternoon.
Im very happy to have gotten this head open and have the option to change balls. That was driving me pretty nutty every time I'd fail to open it day after day.
Does anybody ever find the VI catching on either the wall of the wand/adapter when heating? It seems that if i dont have the head angled in there juuust right, the VI seems to catch. Ive been resorting to holding the V2 while heating in the wand while giving it a slow spin or raise it up and down a few MMs and that seems to not make it get stuck/locked in place for a short period in the wand
Dirigible_Molecule
Retired rebel.
Sadly it seems that the wand inner glass is not made in a uniform size, QC must be bad. Been reported here and elsewhere many times. Worth reading the ispire wand sub. 8)
HoodiesAndHondas
Well-Known Member
For those who have switched to the rubies, and also use the Wand until timeout at whatever temp you prefer; Did you have to change the Wand temp/timer when you switched to the rubies, compared to the zirc balls? Or do you just run the same temp until timeout?
Honestly, the T2 is so dialed in general that with rubies, zirc, sic, ect.., I just get to the first or second click and pull. Pretty much repeatable 24/7. Only on a fresh cold start I use the Wand at 550-600f. Just get to the clicks after the first round at 500f+. Don't forget to wait for the cool down click in-between as this is the only way this thing can combust. Tempest 2 and the Simrell Ti are my best/favorite TEDs in 2025.
How do the T2 and the Simrell compare? Which one is better in your opinion?
BushRanger
Hit It & Quit It
I like 545f with rubies. Vary that depending on herb humidity and battery level.
Just ordered a custom leather case for my Tempest 2!!!! LabetKomp is making custom cases for 57 Euro including shipping 
custom colors and everything. I am so stoked for it to arrive. I placed my Order today and was able to message him on Instagram for exact specifications. If you've been waiting for a classy leather case this is a great option!!!
custom colors and everything. I am so stoked for it to arrive. I placed my Order today and was able to message him on Instagram for exact specifications. If you've been waiting for a classy leather case this is a great option!!!
Gonchin
Well-Known Member
I'm running the same temp with rubies. 525ºF with zirc.
Karadji GreenSea
Free for choose, slave to consequences
There is no better on this context, there is different preferences and experiences I see them as a complementary to each other and both are great efficient tools to use for extract the vapour . Madheaters is thousand times better with the customer care service than simrell by my own experience, if you need choose one I would recommend the Tempest.
The T2 is more versatile OMHO which you can regulate how you want to use it, regulating the air flow so you can have a bong/DTL experience with it open wide cap or you can have a joint/MTL experience with half open or 1/3 from the cap that will last many mtl puffs.
At beginning I disliked the simrell cause it cools down really quickly with make quite upsetting in comparison to the tempest at this perspective MTL however the bong/DTL experience with it is amazing, feels like the extraction of the vapour is quick even and efficient reminds the anvil but with less time heating it,It is versatile with the use conduction heating more the botton then convection heating more the top Ive used it mostly on the hybrid mode, If i want conduction I go for a dynavap hiperdyn If I want convection I stick to the tempest or TA3/TA4 .The long intercooler unit from the t2 is long as much the tool cooling unit from simrell.
Damn,I love these tools
