How do I know if I'm vaping or combusting hash?

Nosferatu

Well-Known Member
I just got an Eclipse Vape H20 and use it with a torch lighter. So I have some nice green bubble hash and I'm getting my bubbler to milk, but I'm not sure if its combustion or vapor. The hash does turn black at the end. Should it keep its green color? And when it starts bubbling in there should I let off the heat? It is harsh sometimes and maybe it shouldn't be? Ive never vaped hash...

I post this here because I figured vaping hash in anything would be alike so anyone could help. I know the H20 isn't too popular yet. But it is very nice.
 
Nosferatu,

max

Out to lunch
The hash does turn black at the end.
There's some disagreement about whether black means you're starting to get into combustion, or just the highest temp vapor. I know I've had some black ABV at times without getting smoke. I can tell the difference between even the highest temp vapor and smoke. High temp vapor is harsh, but smoke is much more so. I can't speak for everyone though, and I never run across hash anymore, and have never vaped any. If any of your remains turn to ash though, there's no doubt you've combusted.
 
max,

WatTyler

Revolting Peasant
I've got the Eclipse vape pipe version which I sometimes use for hash. With a torch though it's really easy to overdo it, or so I've found, as it's really only a thin wall of glass between your delicate hash and that 1300C flame. I've had much better results with this vape with a standard lighter-done nice and gently like this a tiny load keeps making me vapor for ages. Can kinda tell from the look of the vapor in the vial to know when it's getting too hot. But really for me it's about going gently, and once you see it bubbling and vapor start to form, remove the heat and hit it and the intake of fresh air over the heated hash releases loads more vapor. But for the H20 in a glass set up I'm guessing that maybe you want that higher temp, all at once type experience- I can blow big clouds, but can't speak for using it in glass set up. Try it with a standard lighter?

I actually find my Vapbong the best for hash. In many respects it's an awful vape, but for hash it rocks IMO- more convection involved and so you can turn up the heat higher without risking burning quite so much, if that makes sense...

Edit: My left overs vary depending on the grade of the hash, but what there is tends to be black and slightly gunky yet also sort of powdery. Not ash though.
 
WatTyler,

Nosferatu

Well-Known Member
Doesnt a normal lighter get the vials all covered in soot? How long do you need to apply flame with one? Lol I dont even have a normal lighter anywhere in the house with vaping these days
 
Nosferatu,

WatTyler

Revolting Peasant
Nosferatu said:
Doesnt a normal lighter get the vials all covered in soot? How long do you need to apply flame with one? Lol I dont even have a normal lighter anywhere in the house with vaping these days


If you keep the vial above the flame, rather than in it, there should be no soot. I've also heard that flint ignition can cause a sootier flame? But if you keep it outta the flame but in the heat there shouldn't really be any anyway, so I've found.

Obviously takes longer than using a torch, but I couldn't say exactly- never thought to time it. Also varies according to type of hash, and age/staleness IME. Not long though- 20 sec?

Edit: RE soot/lighters- I read a thread somewhere on here linking to another thread elsewhere (GC?) about top quality expensive lighters, making the point that they released less soot and impurities, and used images of the ends of heated drinks cans to demonstrate this. I tried the same experiement myself and couldn't replicate it with different lighters at all. I could however replicate all the displayed heat marks with one single lighter at different distances. So in my view and experience with this experiement and my vials, a really expensive candle flame lighter isn't really necessary to burn gas soot free. Although they can be really nice to own. :2c:
 
WatTyler,

FLskwat

VAPOLITICS!
Always keep the vial above the arrow edge of the flame for both lighters. Torch can overdo at first but with a slight learning curve and adjustments it will go so much faster (and with no combustion) then a BIC!
Start with a chunk...Vape it 2 or 3 hits...then break it.
You can go black...no ashy grey points...you're still vaping! Anyhow, smoke is so thick compared to vapor you'll see it in a sec. in those tiny vials!
If you can rebreak, change the structure of your powder, you'll see there are still some brown parts to be vaped... go slowly till the point everything is black/DRY (you cannot rebuilt the chunk, it is not sticky at all anymore...)/powdery... and you get no more vapor (same as green in fact)! ;)
 
FLskwat,

crawdad

floatin
max said:
I can tell the difference between even the highest temp vapor and smoke. High temp vapor is harsh, but smoke is much more so.

thats about how i try to explain it to people as well. the only other obvious difference is you either have ashes (combust) or black herb (very high vape temp). only experience with hash is combust, so cant comment beyond that. :peace:
 
crawdad,

Nosferatu

Well-Known Member
So unless I'm getting into ash form I guess there is no combustion? But I'm not happy blackening my herbs when I vape so same goes for this I guess, I dont wanna be vaping to the blackest before combustion all the time and not know it.


EDIT: I looked at my vials and they are a little greyish. So whats the best technique with a torch to get good vapor with this ting?
 
Nosferatu,

FLskwat

VAPOLITICS!
nop: pot is green so you should stop at dark brown at the most..
Hash is brown so it can go black... you're not at the same proximity to combustion as black weed is (is that clear, LOL?)
I really think the important factor is dryness: no more sticky feeling/moist:oILS and you're done! So if you wish, I suppose you could stop when it's not totally "dry" (though I don't see the point as you will not make edibles out of that mess, will you?).
 
FLskwat,

Nosferatu

Well-Known Member
Thanks so much you made it clear. Basically vape all the moisture outa the hash and it'll be crumbly and black. Grey would be combustion. Thanks for the answer :)
 
Nosferatu,

FLskwat

VAPOLITICS!
You're welcome bro', enjoy your concentrates! ;)

Oh and for the torch : the vial above the flam arrow edge...NO CONTACT AT ALL between the last visible edge of the flame and the vial (at least 2mm. space)!
 
FLskwat,

Nosferatu

Well-Known Member
Perfect thanks I was putting it to the vial....damn I just wanna hit this thing NOW I cant wait till tonight!
 
Nosferatu,

OO

Technical Skeptical
Nosferatu said:
Doesnt a normal lighter get the vials all covered in soot? How long do you need to apply flame with one? Lol I dont even have a normal lighter anywhere in the house with vaping these days
only if you let more than just the tip of the flame touch the glass.
 
OO,

luchiano

Well-Known Member
FLskwat said:
nop: pot is green so you should stop at dark brown at the most..
Hash is brown so it can go black... you're not at the same proximity to combustion as black weed is (is that clear, LOL?)
I really think the important factor is dryness: no more sticky feeling/moist:oILS and you're done! So if you wish, I suppose you could stop when it's not totally "dry" (though I don't see the point as you will not make edibles out of that mess, will you?).

Fresh herb is green but aged herb is brown. The best herb I ever had was brown and looked like soil but it topped ALL the greenest herb I've tried. I'm still looking for herb like that and that was 16 years ago.

The heat breaks down the chlorophyll and that is why the other colors come through.

The best way to tell combustion is by using temperature because if you start low and then raise the temperature around 445-451f you know you're in the the combustion range.

Dealing with hash is another story because it doesn't have cellulose in it so the combustion temperature isn't 451f BUT it does have a lot of volatile oils so it will burn at a lower temperature unless you vape these first. When you vape these volatile oils first at low temperatures you can then take the hash,unless it is lower quality, to higher temperatures than 451f without combustion to release more cannabinoids. An example is beta-caryophyllene which is high in cannabis and it has a boiling point of approximately 503f.

Keep the temperature low first then raise it higher to get most of the oils from hash without burning anything.
 
luchiano,

Nosferatu

Well-Known Member
Cool man I just tried that on my lunch break and it worked great, so many hits. Started at 4:20 and was blasted by 4:30. Much nicer than startin the vape up
 
Nosferatu,

FLskwat

VAPOLITICS!
luchiano said:
FLskwat said:
nop: pot is green so you should stop at dark brown at the most..
Hash is brown so it can go black... you're not at the same proximity to combustion as black weed is (is that clear, LOL?)
I really think the important factor is dryness: no more sticky feeling/moist:oILS and you're done! So if you wish, I suppose you could stop when it's not totally "dry" (though I don't see the point as you will not make edibles out of that mess, will you?).

Fresh herb is green but aged herb is brown. The best herb I ever had was brown and looked like soil but it topped ALL the greenest herb I've tried. I'm still looking for herb like that and that was 16 years ago.

The heat breaks down the chlorophyll and that is why the other colors come through.

The best way to tell combustion is by using temperature because if you start low and then raise the temperature around 445-451f you know you're in the the combustion range.

Dealing with hash is another story because it doesn't have cellulose in it so the combustion temperature isn't 451f BUT it does have a lot of volatile oils so it will burn at a lower temperature unless you vape these first. When you vape these volatile oils first at low temperatures you can then take the hash,unless it is lower quality, to higher temperatures than 451f without combustion to release more cannabinoids. An example is beta-caryophyllene which is high in cannabis and it has a boiling point of approximately 503f.

Keep the temperature low first then raise it higher to get most of the oils from hash without burning anything.

Yes Luchiano, I'm aware weed can be brown, purple, black (B. Domina), almost red/orange, White (W. Russian or Rhino) and that hash and concentrates go from clear yellow and clear green (skuff/pollen) to dark shiny black (charras, afghani and stuff)... And aged weed can stay green for ages depending on storage/curing etc... It was a general statement for Nosferatu to understand the process!
But thanks for the physical explanation of it!
Nosferatu, cool you enjoyed it! BTW I like your lunch break time!! LOL!
 
FLskwat,
I just bought the Eclipse Vape. I vape ok, but, using a bic made vials sooty-oh well, they can be cleaned!
Last night I tried it with my cheap torch lighter & it was good, except-I went thru all the butane from the torch lighter! In 2 sessions!! Something is wrong & I know it's with me!
Suggestions??
Oh, and, my vaped hash is black & gooey, not ash.
Other than that, lol, I really like the Eclipse. The high is different, but does the job!
debbiedoes ;)
 
debbiedoes,
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