Ballvape, rack. iteration - evolution

CaleidosCope

Well-Known Member
Hi everybody! I have learned: RUBYS TASTE DIFFERENT ;) - But that's not all.

A inexpensive heat-controller in a nice dress was the goal. Look what happened:



So what do we have here:

- Box (and handle) built from elm wood. There was such a board lying around, and my band saw had to be tested properly.
- The Sinotimer MT-S was a bargain on Aliexpress, but it has a very clearly audible click when it regulates. Mechanical relays! Super! The part is next to me on the desk. Suboptimal. So, I took the soldering iron and unsoldered the relays. Surprisingly, the controller still works. At least SSR and that's what I wanted. Totally silent.
- The 18.8 stainless steel heater holder is an accessory from the shisha sector. To redicate sticking glass a little I have installed a fine titanium wire as a spacer.
- The rotating tool holder is made of ebony. 6x2mm neodymium magnets hold the tools.
- Spoon from Amazon
- Brush from Storz&Bickel
- scrape tool is from Amazon, Cosmetic tool, I pinched off the tip and sharpened it.
- I pressed the head sieve myself. With a glass tube (gloves please! - You can take anything else that fits the diameter...) I carefully pressed the tissue into the necessary depth. With a pair of scissors shorten the protrusions. Before cutting, glow out the metal. then the metal stays in shape easier. I have different depths. So different pot sizes and distances from the heat source. They hold very well in the head. At the end of the session, I turn the head the other way around and tap it out. Reload. Of course, the standard dome sieves also go ... but hey here is DIY! ;). Stainless steel screen mat with different mesh sizes from Ebay. I used 0.06mm.
- The heater with the wooden handle: glass 18fem to 18male is an active coal holder from BamBamBhole for bongs. I added a 18mm (I guess) bong screen to hold back the 4mm clear ruby beads (3mm are on backorder...;) ). Just bent the screen so that it wedges. The copper clasp is made from a leftover power cord. 2mm diameter. Prevents the heating element from sliding out the top.

Did I forget something? Oh yeah... there's a SHELLY inside. Timer... 15min. When I walk in the front door the vape starts. Nice.

And ruby's taste different... try it out yourself! Also my heater notices that and regulates much calmer... more stable. The recomendedvapes uk guy has answered so beautifully on his Webstore: "It's not nice when the hot balls fall out of the vape and romp everywhere on the floor. 230°C Hot! He can confirm that the Rubyballs have burned into the floor but the glass balls not." - GET RUBYs!

EDIT: by the way... It has also helped me with a jetflame lighter on the heater to find out exactly where the thermo sensor is located. The sensor is very sensitive. It is not exactly in the tip at the end of the heater. Sometimes, it varies, it is two centimeters before the end. This location should also be on the glass. this will prevent the heater from heating up too much.

So have fun with the pictures. I hope they stay online for a long time. ... What were those times... back then... Zack... upload in the forum. Enough whining.


Good Sunday!

Translated with DeepL











Here is the gallery : [URL]https://abload.de/gallery.php?key=ilB28S8A
 
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