I pressed a few grams through a 25u screen first and that caught all the particulates and a large amount of wax. Then, I pressed the remaining through a 15u screen and just caught a small amount of wax. I only do this to try and keep the pen atomizer clean. I want to try coffee filters next and see how clear it gets?
what kind of yields are you getting with that setup?I love the auto presses, that one actually looks nice too! Still with the hair iron and $3 Harbor Freight clamp. Still getting great results. Here's some pics of the Headband and more rosin. I'm saving a fair bit of this to vape, it's fantastic stuff.
Ah, I was wondering if you could do that. Turns out glancing at pictures while scrolling back through pages and not reading doesn't help at allI pressed a few grams through a 25u screen first and that caught all the particulates and a large amount of wax. Then, I pressed the remaining through a 15u screen and just caught a small amount of wax. I only do this to try and keep the pen atomizer clean. I want to try coffee filters next and see how clear it gets?
I posted a 25u wax picture on page 44
Im a terrible person and this is wholly unscientific so I am not sure but am guessing 15-20% consistently, quality of material is important as you can only extract whatever is already present. I should be logging this stuff a little more accurately I agree. I will take some numbers these next few presses and see. The hash up there ^ was 1g in and I got .44g out minus a small dab.
I saw some rosin lab results that show around 10-12% active cannabinoids which is 2-3x higher than what you'd usually see on flower. This was when we first started seeing stuff about it, I wonder what it looks like now with these auto pressers and more precise temperatures. I don't think the decarbing is a problem so much as the fact that at decarbing temps you're also exposing the terpenes to those temperatures. Yet somehow I see rosin lab tests that show huge terpene percentages compared to bho and my own presses are obscenely smelly. But yeah longer you expose it to heat the more taste suffers.
I think your gonna find that its easier to retain terpenes with this tech over say a solvent based tech due to the fact that solvent based extraction often requires lots of purging often under vacuum which actively pulls anything that boil at that atmosphere out of the extract... moisture terpenes even cannabinoids may be converted or lost.
So apparently the target price for this press when it goes on sale is $3500
. It's actually a modified commercial juice presser which is interesting, could be another DIY route if you can find a decent cheap one to modify. This is the main reason I'm moving towards rosin. I've had good results with QWISO and vac purging but I still lose a lot of terps and it ends up being a compromise between extra terpy and well purged.
Is there any difference between the high5vape press and the d-nail press?So apparently the target price for this press when it goes on sale is $3500
I'm on the (non-committal) pre-order list for the new High5Vape press which is slated for a more reasonable $300. Supposed to use internally heated plates similar to the one here on a 1-ton press. If you want to be added to the list send them an email at info@highfivevape.com, I think only people on the list will be able to order one from the first batch.
This is the main reason I'm moving towards rosin. I've had good results with QWISO and vac purging but I still lose a lot of terps and it ends up being a compromise between extra terpy and well purged.
As far as I know they'll be completely different since High5 isn't using a t-shirt press as a base. Supposedly it will press harder than the D-Nail but at this point it's just talk and they haven't shown a demo yet.
Thanks for the info!
That's helpful, I'll search for that double press technique to extract the most you can.
I don't mind buying a good hair iron, I just wasn't into spending hundreds on a press. When you say 14-18%, do you mean of the total amount of cannabinoids or the weight of the bud?
I will check out those posts, thanks
essentially the plate bent cause its made of inferior metal for the amount of pressure being applied.... blocking the springs will probably prevent that if the block is flush with the heater head and mounting plate. by taking the springs off he removed the self leveling feature of that particular heat transfer press but we dont want that at all anyway!Thanks for the info!
Yeah it looks like SoilGrown had to modify his dnail press. He had the tension tightened all the way in order to get his usual yield and it bent the plate that is attached to the springs/bolts. He took out the springs and put in shorter bolts so the small plate rests flush on the heading pad plate.
Does this seem like the best solution?
Or would it be better to leave the springs/longer bolts in and put a block of wood or metal between the plate and the heating pad plate (essentially not allowing the springs to compress and therefore not ending up with a bent plate)?
Exactly, springs are useless in that type of device; it takes away from the pressure; at least the way it's configured there, imho. In a "t-shirt style" press, I would not want any springs unless they were springs that aided in me adding more pressure...so instead of body weight, a spring system on the closing mechanism to aid the user...rambling.
@farscaper knows what he's talking about with the "t-shirt style" press; he came up with the original dabsmasher. Although I'm going "lower" tech than that, I will for sure adopt his puck making apparatus
I just used junk parts I had laying around to make a hammer press. some use them some dont. no biggie just options.Thanks for explaining that!
What do you think would be better to do, remove the springs all together or put a block in the gap? Will one be safer/less stressful on the unit?
Is there a way to measure the pressure that is affordable? If there is a device I could test it without the springs and with the block then obviously go with whatever one produces more pressure
Hey @CrazyDiamond! Thanks for the info! I missed out in this puck making apparatus. I know people have been using kief presses to press nugs before squishing. Is this what you are referring to?
I just used junk parts I had laying around to make a hammer press. some use them some dont. no biggie just options.
as far as the blocking goes my gecko press has the heater mounted to the pivot arm via a single threaded shaft (no springs) and it came that way. there is a rubber stop on the arm but thats just to keep it from clanking even louder. so my heater is basically bolted directly to the arm so I can say that if you want to shorten the bolts to hard mount it (if you have that capacity) it would help tremendously. However if you didnt want to remount it you could just use a stop block and use the machine unmodified.
I think the original purpose for the springs was to provide a little automatic leveling feature for pressing shirts and such...
if you remount the heater you may have to adjust the bottom heater as well so they make contact. when I first got my gecko I had to raise the bottom plate when I removed the foam pad from the lower plate.
as for testing compressed pressure I think this will work but its outa my budget.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009S...ompression&dpPl=1&dpID=31H1d8kVraL&ref=plSrch
normally cost $1200 but you can get one now for 82% off at $218! so if you buy it let me borrow it and I'll tell you what kind of pressure a gecko press is actually capable of lol.
Mean Skreenz has some 25u rosin bags in different sizes on amazon.
Was thinking about ordering some myself while I wait for the press to get here. 
thats a first, I've never seen buddered rosin before!I had a few bits of rosin and one of them buddered overnight... Interesting...
