Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

[cybrguy]

Mine arrived yesterday. A kind neighbor pulled it out of the vestibule and dropped it off at my door. Thanks.

Played with it some last night and I liked it. I was a little surprised how close to the Splinter it is in size. Some nice grain action. Looks a little better in person.

The bigger heater is noticeable and it seems a little easier to get to temp. Gonna take a while to figure it out completely but got some good rips right away. Clearly, though, I am gonna have to get another mod if I intend to use both splinters, as I do, as reconfiguring the mod each time you switch splinters will be a pain in the ass. I guess that will be my excuse to get a DNA chip. What a shock, eh? Damn.

 

[enjiatt]

Ill get a better Video Next week

@cybrguy you were correct about the 19mm adapters, They seem to work fine. I found that the issue is when I have a rimmed basket in the stem it adds a couple MM to the bottom, which makes it difficult to completely seal. Fortunately without the seal very little air gets through on the side.


My experience is much better now with my 2 hole Splinter Z than previously mentioned. Unfortunately the same "problems" with other 510 Mods that I have owned (all DIY bulli/project thread)


FYI my experience with vapes in the last 2 months is solely using them dry because my current lifestyle doesnt allow me to vape at home.


Before the Z i used my 510 mod with a orchid mod and a 18mm f2f on top of the chimney. The actual stem I use is a 18mm to 14mm 45 degree stem. Adding the stem and a keck clip allows me to Spin the stem while holding the mod. This gives me a nice even abv and the clouds I prefer. I get great clouds on first rip.


Downsides:

with this is that I am using a relatively thick coil, may be 18 Gauge .386 ohms cold and TC doesn't seem to be consistent enough for me to use.


· with this is that I am using a relatively thick coil, may be 18 Gauge .386 ohms cold and TC doesn't seem to be consistent enough for me to use. I use VW at 34 watts

· if I am trying to prepack stems (screen inside stem method) with top hat I have to turn temp up to at least 40w. Although this doesn't give me a red glow the air is pretty hot and harsh on throat.

· This will most likely eventually fail because of the plastic insulators that are being using. Although it has held up so far.


For me (my opinion), The stems that the Splinter Z comes with are good quality but spinning the stem seems to be the best way I can get an even vaping experience. The stock stem doesn't really spin on the glass (which is probably a good thing for sealing purposes). My other stems make the baskets stick out a little which lessons the seal a tiny bit but allows me to freely spin. This spinning was good until I was driving and it fell out I almost gave up on the Z until I put it on my DNA 200. I used the same settings that I used for the Orchid which was using 304 steel for the TCR. Not sure what that was right this second.


significantly better vaping experience but I still had the spinning issues. I ended up doing a little ghetto DIY and basically put 2 rubber bands looped through a Keck clip. So now I can vape on the go without worrying about spilling and spin my stem all one handed.



issue:


Im still looking for a good pre pack method. Currently I am using rimmed baskets with a mini elb smashed to make a lid. Unfortunately this seal isnt consistent and there are times that I spill the preload.

The regular ELB's would work fine but this makes me turn the temp up higher than I want.......Although this may be better with the Z

 

[little maggie]

I've been reading and rereading the box mod threads and am exhausted. I have a new hcigar for an upcoming iheat that is unusable by me because I can't open it. Can someone just recommend one or two mod vapes that they like for the splinter z that use fjunkys software? Preferably 1 0r 2 battery- not 3. You've all had time experimenting with your mods. I'll just go buy whatever is suggested. I know I have to make my own decision but this research has ended up with me being brain dead. I know some of the FJ compatibles don't fit the splinter well but I haven't kept track and now can't find them again. Plus when I go to fastech and look up a mod like a cuboid there are too many versions to know what to get.

 

[virtualpurple]

@little maggie I bought the rx300 to try and run FJ firmware but I just can’t get it dialed in. Before I would just get an overheating message super quick, now I don’t get any heat at all.

The Z works great on my dna 250 mod now that I’ve figured that out a bit better, but I’m still having no luck with the FJ firmware.

@SloJimFizz is doing well with FJ with his rx2/3 (I think that’s his mod).

 

[Shit Snacks]

I've been reading and rereading the box mod threads and am exhausted. I have a new hcigar for an upcoming iheat that is unusable by me because I can't open it. Can someone just recommend one or two mod vapes that they like for the splinter z that use fjunkys software? Preferably 1 0r 2 battery- not 3. You've all had time experimenting with your mods. I'll just go buy whatever is suggested. I know I have to make my own decision but this research has ended up with me being brain dead. I know some of the FJ compatibles don't fit the splinter well but I haven't kept track and now can't find them again. Plus when I go to fastech and look up a mod like a cuboid there are too many versions to know what to get.

Yeah RX2/3 will work with 2batt and FJ software but temp control may not be easy to do if that is what you want... I got a Cuboid (150W is the plain one with two batts, super cheap if you can find it since it is old now, try eightvape) but so far just using watts in power mode is much better and any mod can do that really, I just know how to use the Tubo software already so a little simpler for me once I figured out how to get it loaded...

I would suggest maybe you follow @Summer and get the Wismec Ravage for 2batt that is easy to use with ergonomic design. You can load this mysurevic people are talking about and get full temp control for any 510 vape it seems... I will have to try it myself some day, but will see if I can get any temp control going on the Cuboids (I also have a Mini, which is single internal batt)

 

[little maggie]

Thanks. If it would work I think I'd prefer a single battery. I know how to use the fj settings because of my tubo. I'd actually prefer something super simple that is just push and inhale if something like that exists. Alan is going to help me with the hcigar for the iheat but I'd like one for the splinterz.

 

[AJS]

Finally got my Z back from a friend. Been having insane results with the og Splinter long preheat cruise mode temp control, but wanted to find the settings for my Z to recreate those effects. Grabbed a stem and loaded her up.
Tcr 180, 380 degrees provided vapor too thick at that temp. A few more hits at that and it woulda been black. Was great for a first rip though. Lowered tcr to 120, no vapor. Tried 165, but too thick again. 155 tcr, finished a bowl on 390 with nice consistent brown abv. Few hits on that temp and vapor eventually died off with that brown abv. Looks like we have a winner.

Once these mild effects wear off, I'll test through a bubbler later and get you guys a fat fuckin rip.

Woo

 

[Shit Snacks]

Thanks. If it would work I think I'd prefer a single battery. I know how to use the fj settings because of my tubo. I'd actually prefer something super simple that is just push and inhale if something like that exists. Alan is going to help me with the hcigar for the iheat but I'd like one for the splinterz.

Yeah the Evic Vtwo is what is used in the Tubo I think for replaceable single batt with FJ software so you could always just get that. But I might recommend the Wismec Sinuous P80 for a nice single batt without FJ software...

Finally got my Z back from a friend. Been having insane results with the og Splinter long preheat cruise mode temp control, but wanted to find the settings for my Z to recreate those effects. Grabbed a stem and loaded her up.
Tcr 180, 380 degrees provided vapor too thick at that temp. A few more hits at that and it woulda been black. Was great for a first rip though. Lowered tcr to 120, no vapor. Tried 165, but too thick again. 155 tcr, finished a bowl on 390 with nice consistent brown abv. Few hits on that temp and vapor eventually died off with that brown abv. Looks like we have a winner.

So is the TCR the M number @SloJimFizz uses? is that really all there is to adjust for safe reliable TC with tubo software? He had his at 230 for the Z, but that did not work for me at all... So went to power

Meanwhile I was foolish last night, using 45w through water, it was going great, consistent thick, but I wasn't 100% sure the mod was on since my Cuboid screen must be defectively dim, I kinda saw the vapor flowing but wasn't sure in the dirty glass and also already stoned lol so anyway held the button too long and smoked right up of course. Gotta clean everything out, but hopefully the Splinter is still neutral, seemed so at first, but could be a faint whiff since when I pulled it off the stem went with it yet fell out right away... I'm already digging it too much to want to risk ruining it in any way! But yeah there is plenty of power here with good control, but I would like the security temp control provides with this great heater, just something about this tech and design works so damn well

 

[KeroZen]

Clearly, though, I am gonna have to get another mod if I intend to use both splinters, as I do, as reconfiguring the mod each time you switch splinters will be a pain in the ass

There is provision for multiple profiles in ArticFox, you can have one per atty. That being said I still think we should avoid swapping attys too often, as these 510 ports are already super finicky in the first place, wear only makes them worse.

 

[AJS]

So is the TCR the M number @SloJimFizz uses? is that really all there is to adjust for safe reliable TC with tubo software? He had his at 230 for the Z, but that did not work for me at all... So went to power

The 3 variables as far as I understand it are TCR, Coil (ohms?) and Temperature. I don't touch my coil, I screw on my vape and whatever it's on, I leave it at. The TCR defaulted to 180 so I tried it then just went down from there. If it was too cold I woulda gone higher. All this testing I did with 1 stem, took 5 minutes at most.

 

[Summer]

So is the TCR the M number @SloJimFizz uses?

As I haven't used anything but wattage yet, I thought the "M" is the user profile. On my stock software for my eleaf I have M 1, 2 & 3. Anyone, please pipe in.

Here's @AJS using the settings above. *Don't know why the heck you just didn't link your vid. in your post AJ! Do I like have to do everything? What firmware are you using? Funky junk's?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BrGgpqyDNzs/

 

[Shit Snacks]

The 3 variables as far as I understand it are TCR, Coil (ohms?) and Temperature. I don't touch my coil, I screw on my vape and whatever it's on, I leave it at. The TCR defaulted to 180 so I tried it then just went down from there. If it was too cold I woulda gone higher. All this testing I did with 1 stem, took 5 minutes at most.

Hmm yeah I think that is the one with M1, there are two under it at 185? I can try to lower it a lot from 230 then at least... just paranoid maybe lol @KeroZen scared me

Ah posted at same time and didn't see you Summer. Hmmmm then where is TCR lol these things are complex and I'm not even that old!

 

[Summer]

Hmm yeah I think that is the one with M1, there are two under it at 185? I can try to lower it a lot from 230 then at least... just paranoid maybe lol @KeroZen scared me

Hmmmm then where is TCR lol these things are complex and I'm not even that old!

You're asking me??? Listen, SS, I'll meet your half way: Maybe you're right in that the M represents the TCR setting, & since there are 3 M settings on my mod, then that means there are 3 user profiles. So we're both right! Right now, I'm just in a hovering mode mustering up the guts to try & install the new firmware without f'ing up my new mod. This is what scares the out of me.

 

[nachooo]

Finally got my Z back from a friend. Been having insane results with the og Splinter long preheat cruise mode temp control, but wanted to find the settings for my Z to recreate those effects. Grabbed a stem and loaded her up.
Tcr 180, 380 degrees provided vapor too thick at that temp. A few more hits at that and it woulda been black. Was great for a first rip though. Lowered tcr to 120, no vapor. Tried 165, but too thick again. 155 tcr, finished a bowl on 390 with nice consistent brown abv. Few hits on that temp and vapor eventually died off with that brown abv. Looks like we have a winner.

Once these mild effects wear off, I'll test through a bubbler later and get you guys a fat fuckin rip.

Woo

Nice settings..using them right now with same mod...better flavour than my own settings. Thanks

 

[SloJimFizz]

Hmm yeah I think that is the one with M1, there are two under it at 185? I can try to lower it a lot from 230 then at least... just paranoid maybe lol @KeroZen scared me

Ah posted at same time and didn't see you Summer. Hmmmm then where is TCR lol these things are complex and I'm not even that old!

Yes, the M # is the TCR number to adjust to your Splinter, or splinter Z. Safe to move it down, start low, and work your way up.
@AJS is using am earlier version that still has TCR as a mode in FJ's firmware. The TCR mode was changed to be called Tubo in the latest version of the firmware. Different, but the same.

 

[Summer]

@SloJimFizz, so unlike my mod that has 3 (M) modes (i.e. profiles), 1, 2 & 3, the Tubo only has 1 TCR? Are the temp & tcr correlated, meaning if you change the temp & the tcr automatically changes & vice versa? If not, then do you set your temp 1st & then your TCR or or vice versa?

 

[SloJimFizz]

As far as I know, there is only one TCR/M # to choose from, even though there are three to program in the deep edit.
The proper M# is a set it and forget it thing. You do not adjust it on the fly. That's what the temperature control is for.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Experimenting now and still having a really tough time knowing for sure what's what lol I set my TCR /M to 135 to be cautious and had my Watts at 37 to start at 340f for a few hits going to 365 then 380, some point in between I switched to 45 Watts and put the M down to 130. Eventually I got to 390 and 410 as well, and its just really hard to tell lol Doesn't help that I can't really see the cuboid screen at all during the hit (and screen is so fucked up anyway), but I am super stoned with a an even clean extraction that I had to stop when its taste* was gone... Not the best strain I have, but for a test... Yeah Z will still get the most out of it (*taste at first was good and the fact that I can notice all the flavor subtleties as I vape through a full packed short stem shows that it is still pure after my incident, cleaned all my glass now too)

 

[KeroZen]

You set M (or M1 if you have 3 presets) hopefully just once. It's a coefficient that represents the slope of the curve (a straight line actually, but it still has a slope, i.e an angle when you plot it) and that curve is resistance change vs temperature. That coeff. is valid for a given heater material (here some unknown grade of stainless steel) If you swap attys you might need to swap M presets accordingly.

In other vapes using similar heaters we tend to be around 180 (170-190) but in some mods it's displayed as something like 0.00180 (with perhaps one zero less or more after the dot, I don't recall the exact unit they use)

Once set you select your max power in Watts. That's how many Watts will be applied during the initial ramp-up and it also affects how hard you can huff on it afterwards (if you draw too hard and the temperature drops you need to raise that setting) Again that's something you are not supposed to change once you are happy with it.

I use around 30W with my other vapes, but for Splinter it should be closer to 40-50. Don't go above 50W if you have a single cell vape though, it will be too hard for your cell and will damage it over time.

Then, during use, you just set a starting temperature and increase it as the session progresses. Then set it back down when you start a new bowl. Rinse and repeat.

 

[Easywider]

Finally got a ticket board the Z train. Just got tracking on a 2 hole Bubinga and an XL8R

 

[WakeAndVape]

Got my Z a couple days ago and reading this thread is making me want to use it...I haven't had a chance to de-flower it yet.

I have been trying to get the myevic fw (shit is complex) working properly on this rx300 gen3 with the regular splinter (reliably) first.

Seems like I dipped into the water of the thread at the right time, since settings are being discussed...

I SHOULD just try the splinter on my evic vtwo dual...but I have a TuboX connected to it and @KeroZen warning about atty switching makes me want to keep that one monogamous and committed to the X...

@AJS I did the exact opposite of you to get results and I wonder which method is a better practice... I Kept my M value at 185 and adjusted my coils resistance (with it locked) to reach the desired level.

I was doing this to follow FJ's 'tubo fw recipe'
And lowering the coil resistance if it seems to be running hot...

@KeroZen are you knowledgeable about this piece of the puzzle?

I am going to try the Z today, but want to be sure of which values I should adjust and which I should let be...TIA.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Hmm hits at 380 cruising through water seemed to work well but maybe a little slow to heat up... I guess I could increase the M value as mentioned, didn't seem to have scorch risks like this which was good using 380 through water, but I do want to be sure... Still hard to know

 

[KeroZen]

@WakeAndVape: Nope. All my frustrations with mods and firmware came precisely from locked resistance and the thing still reading a different value at startup and/or believing it was a new coil where it was still the same...

I don't know if @funkyjunky did something special to his firmware such that it only takes the locked resistance value into account, but back when I was using my_evic (the open source firmware which tubo_evic is derived from) it kept giving me erratic values every-time I started whether locked or not. Then it's the same with ArticFox, and later with DNA/escribe...

Turned out it was all contact resistance related in the end, but I never tried offsetting the resistance value to alter the temperature. I also believe it's only valid if you use TCR (a single coefficient) but it's wrong when using TFR (a curve with multiple points)

@Shit Snacks: if you want to increase heat-up time you need to increase the max power (Watts) not the TCR coeff. And if it's not brown enough then bump the temperature, again not the TCR coeff. Once setup you should leave that one alone! It's for a particular material type and said type doesn't change unless you use a different heater/vape.

 

[sickmanfraud]

@AJS I did the exact opposite of you to get results and I wonder which method is a better practice... I Kept my M value at 185 and adjusted my coils resistance (with it locked) to reach the desired level.

I believe that adjusting the resistance/Tubo setting is the recommended way to adjust the vape/mod.

 

[Shit Snacks]

@Shit Snacks: if you want to increase heat-up time you need to increase the max power (Watts) not the TCR coeff. And if it's not brown enough then bump the temperature, again not the TCR coeff. Once setup you should leave that one alone! It's for a particular material type and said type doesn't change unless you use a different heater/vape.

Oh but mine was at 130, you just said 180, while AJS had 150 and SloJim had 230... My Watts are already at 45 which I think is a good place to stay, just trying to find the right M for 380F to feel and function as such and it is hard to tell..