18650 Battery Safety

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Literally more than twice as expensive as the 28As on sale on the same site. They really would have to be awfully good to be worth that price difference. Or last a lot longer before they start to lose power. May have to buy a pair to check them out, but I can't imagine they are worth the difference to me.
 

RustyOldNail

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Is there any info (anecdotal or otherwise) on how much better these are than the P28A?

I believe they decreased internal resistance, and increased the mAh’s.
SEARCH for “Mooch” battery reviews, he tested these I believe already.
Every NEW battery release comes at a HIGHER price when first released!
Certainly not worth 2x as much as previous version, but if you want and can afford the best……
 
I have some Molicel 26As I bought 3 years ago, used a little bit with my Tetra P80, and then just been sitting in a case for the past couple years. I’m holding onto them because I’m expecting a Nomad II to arrive at some point. Are these still good to use or do the batteries “go bad” just sitting around for an extended period?
 
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RustyOldNail

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I have some Molicel 26As I bought 3 years ago, used a little bit with my Tetra P80, and then just been sitting in a case for the past couple years. I’m holding onto them because I’m expecting a Nomad II to arrive at some point. Are these still good to use or do the batteries “go bad” just sitting around for an extended period?

Lithium batteries have a supposed shelf life of approximately 10 years.
Best long term storage is to charge them to about 3.8 volts, and store in refrigerator.
The only real test is using test devices that can measure AC and or DC resistance, something most don’t have.
With that said, I’d just fully charge them, and you should get plenty of use from them, as you wisely bought top shelf batteries….
 

kiddvudu2

Well-Known Member
Lithium batteries have a supposed shelf life of approximately 10 years.
Best long term storage is to charge them to about 3.8 volts, and store in refrigerator.
The only real test is using test devices that can measure AC and or DC resistance, something most don’t have.
With that said, I’d just fully charge them, and you should get plenty of use from them, as you wisely bought top shelf batteries….
No expert here, but won't a $30 smart charger with capacity testing give some insight here?

Wondering this myself now.
 
kiddvudu2,

RustyOldNail

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No expert here, but won't a $30 smart charger with capacity testing give some insight here?

Wondering this myself now.

Some advanced chargers can give you a DC IR number, but even my expensive charger is not very accurate in regards to consistent IR results, mostly because of the battery slots connections, sliding rails etc.
I’ve played with this far too many times, reseating the batteries in the slots, etc.
You then must mark the batteries and keep notes on dates, DC IR readings, so you can compare.
I have a decent AC IR Meter, the benefits of that, are most battery companies use AC IR numbers in their battery specification data sheets, and your DC IR readings are NOT convertible to AC readings.
I had fun learning and exploring, but in the end, it can become a time wasting hobby.
As even the best Molicel batteries are very affordable, I just FULLY charge them, and replace when they don’t heat up as many loads or get really old, some end up in flashlights etc.
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Google "should batteries be stored in the refrigerator" and follow the links yourself. Any of them.

Part of what they suggest is that the risk of moisture getting into the battery is greater than any benefit you might get from the lower temperatures.
 
cybrguy,

RustyOldNail

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Google "should batteries be stored in the refrigerator" and follow the links yourself. Any of them.

Part of what they suggest is that the risk of moisture getting into the battery is greater than any benefit you might get from the lower temperatures.

That’s why you store them in a sealed container.

Here is some reading you can do, and I’ll supply the LINKS!


 
RustyOldNail,
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cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Thanks for the links. Neither of them say to store your batteries in the fridge. They do recommend a cool dry place, but I don't think that's the refrigerator.

But like I say, YMMV.
 
cybrguy,

RustyOldNail

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Thanks for the links. Neither of them say to store your batteries in the fridge. They do recommend a cool dry place, but I don't think that's the refrigerator.

But like I say, YMMV.

Guess you missed the “chart”: Table 2 illustrates the remaining capacities of lithium- and nickel-based batteries after one year of storage at various temperatures.

The “crisper” section in the bottom of my refrigerator is the definition of a “cool and dry” place, along with the temperature being consistent.

As far as “my mileage”, I’ve stored extra new lithium batteries as per the science for over 5 years, and after reaching room temperature, I tested both AC and DC resistance, and they were like new.

Do as you please, I’ll stick with the known science…..
 
RustyOldNail,
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