In my experience it's more important to provide the groove facing away from the heater with a not too flimsy o ring; if you can do that, it should still work with a thinner one in the bottom ridge without sliding down. The other way around will not work. Good luck!
I can't really get tweezers to it, I can't get to the side of the screen if that makes sense?
I sorted it! My wife comes to the rescue yet again, she got these out of her sewing kit, thread pickers. I managed to get that tiny hook just underneath it enough to get the screen a bit more vertical, then could pick it out with some small tweezers. I recommend everyone buys one!
Yeah, I was worried about damaging it, but fingers crossed seems to be OK, I haven't tried to use it yet as it's too early for me to have a blast plus I figured whilst it was apart, I may as well clean it. But the unit turns on and was getting warm in session mode just standing idle so I think it's OK!Edit: Great! You got it as I was rewriting this to not suggest exactly what worked...I was mostly afraid it would damage something and I’d have felt bad for advising it.
Original (rewritten before posting) message:
I was going to suggest sticking something long and sharp down the edge and trying to get it into one of the little gaps that appear to be there, but then I realized that you’d probably get it out easiest with something sticky.
Not sure what you have available, but put a little bit of it on the end of a pen or whatever and lightly touch the screen until you can get it to come up. Just try to make sure it’s non-toxic and still wash the screen and anything else the sticky part touches before using it again.
At least that’s what I’d probably do at this point, for fear of damaging the heater with other tools.
This sometimes works but it's hit or miss. Usually it will go back to being inconsistent after a couple hits. Pretty frustrating that this is happening only a few months after having it.
Did you take it apart (bottom screw) and clean all the contact points discussed earlier in the thread?
I didn't try cleaning it, I wouldn't sure how to go about that actually. Which parts would need to be cleaned?
Here's everything you need to know
Appreciate it! Sorry if this was answered somewhere (couldn't find it) but could I use iso and a q tip to clean that or is it unsafe?
I used iso and qtips, in some areas, several qtips before it wasn't dirty
Agree
For anyone having lower performance the spots to check seem to be the battery latch, the metal strip that makes contact with the top metal cap (through the stem hole), the three tabs on the board that make contact with the bottom metal cap and the screw tightness. Those seem to be the spots that raise the electrical resistance of the device and lower power output so they're worth checking if you know you have a good sealed air path.Agree
I never cleaned the contacts on the plates. I just clean the battery cover and the respective threads, both, on the top cover as well.
I think that the bad contacts on the plates in several units may have to do with insufficient tightening of the main screw.
In my Tm (the most used, the other is kept in reserve) the main screw was not sufficiently tight and it was even possible to move the plates slightly. After having tightened it, the plates do not move and it was never necessary to clean these contacts.
I Don't think so...
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