TinyMight / TM 2

[PossumMD]

See if there is a customer or ref. (Reference) # or order#

Nup, none of that. There is a reference number, but according to DHL that's not it. Sigh.

 

[dzoinp]

@thunderstealer1337
Speaking / writing is so easy ... You open a Tinymight and already know how to make vapes? What will your perfect vape be called? It will be mass produced already realized ...
There is only one thing that I feel like asking: With so much knowledge, how did you not notice your Tm's defect? You didn't even have the humility to thank those who helped you.

 

[stark1]

A bit biting?
Can’t we all vape along?

 

[RustyOldNail]

A bit biting?
Can’t we all vape along?

Such a ... jokester...

 

[SquirrelMaster]

@Ariste
You don't want to re-calibrate if you're referring to temperatures. If your device worked and then didn't a calibration won't fix anything. Did you draw before the buzz? Any visible marks on the screen below i.e. did you push it into the heater accidentally? Can you remove the screen?

 

[Ariste]

@Ariste
You don't want to re-calibrate if you're referring to temperatures. If your device worked and then didn't a calibration won't fix anything. Did you draw before the buzz? Any visible marks on the screen below i.e. did you push it into the heater accidentally? Can you remove the screen?

Thanks for the reply. I do wait for the buzz. The buzz happens earlier than I would expect (based on my previous usage). On temp setting 10 the buzz happens a couple seconds from a cold start - before this would take a little longer.

The screens, heater coil, and O rings all look perfect.

The session before this issue started the unit did not buzz and would continue getting hotter and hotter. I noticed this was unusual behavior and removed the battery until it was cold.

I have verified there aren't any air leaks by confirming all the intake air is coming from the top holes around the stem.

 

[Stu]

First I would have made a attempt to lock the pcb board to the wood/back as a start, 2nd make sure the heating element has a mounting/alignment engagement to the woods body. This is all very simple poke-yoke things you do in manufacturing.

3rd I would redesign that free spinning bracket that holds the glass from the heater and again make this lock/align into the body somehow.

Imo the compression design would work alot better with less variability in the product if he locked/aligned at least 1 part prior to compressing the entire thing.

Also there is so much radial movement from 1 bolt that extends 2-3 inches compressing 2 plates the size of a oblong circle that is not weighted correctly for compression is the main flaw (when you tighten down naturally 1 side will pop up since only 1 side is pushing back with force)

Lastly, you can read about all the different variations of wood that people have seen from their 1st and 2nd or even 3rd units (big/small/ texture etc), since this is the main body that compresses everything, I would implement some kind of liner to sit inside the woods body so the body wood would never give any variation for assembly, which would allow for ease of alignment/assembly as well.

There are now 112 responses to "would you buy the TM again", 43 or 38% responded they would never buy it or would rather wait. I am in that rather wait for v2, this v1 is not very well designed as I simply laid simple design flaws above with like 30 secs of thought. The design of it is great, but implementation is not going to survive for mass production.

Edit: actually gave it like 2 mins of thought, no reason why we cant have a bolt coming in from top plate to help relieve the single 2" long bolt and relieve some of the load when compressing. Or new body to have the draw tube in middle of body and just have 2 bolts either on 1 side giving compression again or 4 bolts 2 on both faces to help secure the body.

lol, im trying to get ppl to see the truth, just like the other thread where everyone says positive things and kinda ignores these major underlying issues, this one is super similiar with:

maker had previous issues from another product line - both closed up shop and left and this is a new venture
customer service is hit/miss
products qc is all over the place/non existent

Its really not for me, its for the next person reading this and thinking should I buy a TM or not. And yes I will probably sell the tinymight once my p80 comes in, this is the 2nd product that FC leads me to believe will be a get it and love/rave about it, but its far from that

Wow, from what you write, this thing sounds like a real piece of crap. No way he's gonna be able to sell these vapes to discerning customers.

Thank you for showing people "the truth".

 

[SquirrelMaster]

Thanks for the reply. I do wait for the buzz. The buzz happens earlier than I would expect (based on my previous usage). On temp setting 10 the buzz happens a couple seconds from a cold start - before this would take a little longer.

The screens, heater coil, and O rings all look perfect.

The session before this issue started the unit did not buzz and would continue getting hotter and hotter. I noticed this was unusual behavior and removed the battery until it was cold.

I have verified there aren't any air leaks by confirming all the intake air is coming from the top holes around the stem.

That's good you're waiting for the buzz, drawing before can cause issues. The heat up time does sound odd as like you say on level 10 it should take at least 7 seconds or so before it's ready and only a couple seconds for subsequent hits.

Are you using it in session mode? When you say it would get hotter do you mean after each draw the temperature of the wood was increasing because that would be normal within reason. Two back to back sessions and my device is noticeably warmer which is the same as a lot of other vapes unless it's getting uncomfortably hot to hold.

If it's not getting hot at all now when you try to use it then something is fishy (obviously). One more thing to check, unscrew the metal ring where the stem inserts and remove the red o-ring and metal tube. You'll be able to see another glass tube that protects the wood body. On the top of that glass tube there should be another o-ring, possibly clear (like earlier units) or grey. @Seepa has an excellent post here with a couple photos that show what I'm talking about. Make sure the glass tube doesn't spin if you stick your finger in there and attempt to turn. Just be careful with that glass part.

 

[Ariste]

Thanks for the reply. I do wait for the buzz. The buzz happens earlier than I would expect (based on my previous usage). On temp setting 10 the buzz happens a couple seconds from a cold start - before this would take a little longer.

The screens, heater coil, and O rings all look perfect.

The session before this issue started the unit did not buzz and would continue getting hotter and hotter. I noticed this was unusual behavior and removed the battery until it was cold.

That's good you're waiting for the buzz, drawing before can cause issues. The heat up time does sound odd as like you say on level 10 it should take at least 7 seconds or so before it's ready and only a couple seconds for subsequent hits.

Are you using it in session mode? When you say it would get hotter do you mean after each draw the temperature of the wood was increasing because that would be normal within reason. Two back to back sessions and my device is noticeably warmer which is the same as a lot of other vapes unless it's getting uncomfortably hot to hold.

If it's not getting hot at all now when you try to use it then something is fishy (obviously). One more thing to check, unscrew the metal ring where the stem inserts and remove the red o-ring and metal tube. You'll be able to see another glass tube that protects the wood body. On the top of that glass tube there should be another o-ring, possibly clear (like earlier units) or grey. @Seepa has an excellent post here with a couple photos that show what I'm talking about. Make sure the glass tube doesn't spin if you stick your finger in there and attempt to turn. Just be careful with that glass part.

The glass tube o-ring is nice and air tight. The session before it stopped working correctly it was combusting on the first draw on the lowest temperature.

 

[Indifferent FIsh]

Are people using the supplied domed screens?

I am only using my TM with the domed screen as of late, and have been loving the level of extraction I'm getting. I'm leaving a couple of millimetres between the opening of the stem and the beginning of the dome. Then I just do a straw pack and roll out. Get 2-4 solid rips depending on temps, maybe another wispy one if i'm really pushing it. When done I'll either tap or gently blow out of the stem and get nice brown dry little half dome patty of vaped herb. The top sides of the dome are certainly lightest and still the least extracted, but are definitely fully extracted to my level of satisfaction, which i would not be as willing to say about just using the stem and cooling unit... Which isn't to say I'm not satisfied with my TM's performance or extraction, just that I'm an occasional bowl stirrer. Or rather was an occasional bowl stirrer, I no longer feel the same compulsion always having the domed screen in place.

 

[SquirrelMaster]

The glass tube o-ring is nice and air tight. The session before it stopped working correctly it was combusting on the first draw on the lowest temperature.

I'm out of ideas for now unfortunately. Send Tinymight an email and see what they say if you haven't already. You can also message them on Instagram and @Siebter mentioned going through their online portal so look into that. I like to tinker so if it was me I would pull my unit apart (again) just to see if there was anything that looked amiss. I wouldn't recommend it necessarily as you can mess something but I had no issues with mine and I was careful.

 

[dzoinp]

I'm out of ideas for now unfortunately. Send Tinymight an email and see what they say if you haven't already. You can also message them on Instagram and @Siebter mentioned going through their online portal so look into that. I like to tinker so if it was me I would pull my unit apart (again) just to see if there was anything that looked amiss. I wouldn't recommend it necessarily as you can mess something but I had no issues with mine and I was careful.

@Ariste,
I'm sorry, but I also don't see what it could be. in your place I asked for a return label for repair.
excluding user errors and falls, is the first serious problem in a tm... here... if I'm not mistaken

 

[LabPong]

First I would have made a attempt to lock the pcb board to the wood/back as a start, 2nd make sure the heating element has a mounting/alignment engagement to the woods body. This is all very simple poke-yoke things you do in manufacturing.

3rd I would redesign that free spinning bracket that holds the glass from the heater and again make this lock/align into the body somehow.

Imo the compression design would work alot better with less variability in the product if he locked/aligned at least 1 part prior to compressing the entire thing.

Also there is so much radial movement from 1 bolt that extends 2-3 inches compressing 2 plates the size of a oblong circle that is not weighted correctly for compression is the main flaw (when you tighten down naturally 1 side will pop up since only 1 side is pushing back with force)

Lastly, you can read about all the different variations of wood that people have seen from their 1st and 2nd or even 3rd units (big/small/ texture etc), since this is the main body that compresses everything, I would implement some kind of liner to sit inside the woods body so the body wood would never give any variation for assembly, which would allow for ease of alignment/assembly as well.

There are now 112 responses to "would you buy the TM again", 43 or 38% responded they would never buy it or would rather wait. I am in that rather wait for v2, this v1 is not very well designed as I simply laid simple design flaws above with like 30 secs of thought. The design of it is great, but implementation is not going to survive for mass production.

Edit: actually gave it like 2 mins of thought, no reason why we cant have a bolt coming in from top plate to help relieve the single 2" long bolt and relieve some of the load when compressing. Or new body to have the draw tube in middle of body and just have 2 bolts either on 1 side giving compression again or 4 bolts 2 on both faces to help secure the body.

lol, im trying to get ppl to see the truth, just like the other thread where everyone says positive things and kinda ignores these major underlying issues, this one is super similiar with:

maker had previous issues from another product line - both closed up shop and left and this is a new venture
customer service is hit/miss
products qc is all over the place/non existent

Its really not for me, its for the next person reading this and thinking should I buy a TM or not. And yes I will probably sell the tinymight once my p80 comes in, this is the 2nd product that FC leads me to believe will be a get it and love/rave about it, but its far from that

ba-byyyyyyyyyyyyyyy

 

[sickmanfraud]

Lol fc this is just like alpine thread, ppl is always pushing my opinion is better then yours. Don't look at the full picture with all facts laid out.

FYI I watched vapefiends, sneaky Pete and 420vaoezone reviews last night.

They all say stir

Lol

Y'all arguing with me is comical, cuz this device is poorly engineered yet nobody mentions that at all but keeps touting it works fkn great

Obviously people take your opinion seriously. That must be why there are 2 classified advertisements here on FC looking to buy a TM.

@karec, what is the advantage of using a rimmed basket screen in the unit vs using a rimmed basket screen to cap your load in the stem?

 

[SquirrelMaster]

Obviously people take your opinion seriously. That must be why there are 2 classified advertisements here on FC looking to buy a TM.

@karec, what is the advantage of using a rimmed basket screen in the unit vs using a rimmed basket screen to cap your load in the stem?

Not Karec but when I tried a rimmed basket screen in the stem there was a decent chance it would pull out when you removed the stem. The screen mod secures the screen so you don't have to worry about that.

 

[Bazinga]

I am still unable to remove the heater screen. I can't get it past the glass tube. Is the glass tube removable? BTW the glass tube spins freely.

 

[SquirrelMaster]

I am still unable to remove the heater screen. I can't get it past the glass tube. Is the glass tube removable? BTW the glass tube spins freely.

Yes it is removable but you'll need to loosen the torx screw and remove the top plate. Watch out for the o-ring that should be between the top plate and glass tube. Before you pull it apart check for that o-ring where you removed the metal ring and red o-ring where the stem goes.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I am still unable to remove the heater screen. I can't get it past the glass tube. Is the glass tube removable? BTW the glass tube spins freely.

You should not need to remove it to get to the screen though, just the aluminum tube above it... Honestly if you can't get it out I would stop messing with it, just use an ISO soaked q-tip and turn the TM upside down to gently swab clean the screen.

 

[Vaporific]

It sounds like @Bazinga ’s screen and /or screen ring is lodged below the glass cylinder. That happened to me once a few months back. It also sounds like his glass cylinder is spinable so what happened to the large clear oring? Is it still in place? Mine popped out when I spun the glass cylinder and in couldn’t get it back in as it was stretched and curling on every attempt. Someone suggested using a a toothpick to try to dislodge it which is a great suggestion absent of disassembling the vape (I.e. Torx screw). Definitely light ISO on a qtip will clean the screen a bit - I’d hold the unit upside down doing this however. Good luck. Time to pack a load in the TM and watch some football.

 

[Cheebsy]

BTW the glass tube spins freely.

I think this observation from earlier in the thread is a bit misleading, IME anyway. My unit functions just like it did on day 1 and I am able to spin the glass tube without much force. I definitely have a solid, air tight, seal at the top though.

 

[Bazinga]

It sounds like @Bazinga ’s screen and /or screen ring is lodged below the glass cylinder. That happened to me once a few months back. It also sounds like his glass cylinder is spinable so what happened to the large clear oring? Is it still in place? Mine popped out when I spun the glass cylinder and in couldn’t get it back in as it was stretched and curling on every attempt. Someone suggested using a a toothpick to try to dislodge it which is a great suggestion absent of disassembling the vape (I.e. Torx screw). Definitely light ISO on a qtip will clean the screen a bit - I’d hold the unit upside down doing this however. Good luck. Time to pack a load in the TM and watch some football.

That's exactly what happened with mine. Never could successfully replace that clear oring. Had an issue with the device where it would heat up and combust within 10 seconds, almost too hot to hold, and prohibited any sort of draw. The heater and screen turned black. I wanted to clean them up a bit. While waiting for a response from the maker, inexplicably the device began to work normally again. After a couple sessions the horrendous burnt taste disappeared and the device has functioned properly ever since. I think I will take your and Snacks advice and clean the screen with ISO. There is a tiny amount of debris around the heater. It has not affected performance so I'll leave it alone (for now).

 

[karec]

@karec, what is the advantage of using a rimmed basket screen in the unit vs using a rimmed basket screen to cap your load in the stem?

Well i used both and bottom line is one less to handle.... the result is the same, the intent is the same.... to avoid the load to be close to the heater. The main reason is to be able to stir without dropping flower.
Picture yourself on the street / festival / club and handle a pick, a glass stem, a basket screen and the device itself, and im missing the flower container..... now i can stir just by closing the stem with my thumb and shake it (if the load is not packed tight)...

Cheers

 

[Vaporific]

That's exactly what happened with mine. Never could successfully replace that clear oring. Had an issue with the device where it would heat up and combust within 10 seconds, almost too hot to hold, and prohibited any sort of draw. The heater and screen turned black. I wanted to clean them up a bit. While waiting for a response from the maker, inexplicably the device began to work normally again. After a couple sessions the horrendous burnt taste disappeared and the device has functioned properly ever since. I think I will take your and Snacks advice and clean the screen with ISO. There is a tiny amount of debris around the heater. It has not affected performance so I'll leave it alone (for now).

The Maker has replacement large clear orings. I received a few in an accessories order weeks ago (I got lucky with the timing). My Tinymight worked fine without the oring, at least I didn’t notice any significant different, though I could hear the glass cylinder rattling without the oring. The new oring was fairly simple to insert, just a few minutes and a couple of tries to get it right.

I’ve had 2 combustion incidents with my TM. The last one was related to the heater screen and it being pushed onto the heater unbeknownst to me, which unfortunately led to the large oring being dislodged (the same time trying the heater screen mod), and the second one was drawing before the heat up buzz in on demand mode. Shit happens. We learn. Good luck correcting and cleaning yours!

 

[cybrguy]

See if there is a customer or ref. (Reference) # or order#

Not sure exactly what you are after but if I understand...
This is my DHL label sans the address info. Notice under the C-PLT it says Ref: 2060. 2060 was my order number

 

[BestBuds]

I got my second TM in today. The wood looks fantastic this time around! I much prefer the TM stem for a wpa solution over the rbt stems I was using too. Did I notice a flick if a blue led light in there? Should I read back for new features since February or so?