SquirrelMaster
Well-Known Member
Here's what the inside of the V2 stainlesss steel cooling unit for the Crafty looks like. I imagine the Mighty is very similiar.
http://instagr.am/p/CBefq9bHSnW/
Is that a Mighty V1 or V2? That vapour path is "mighty" long!View attachment 1533
Similar, doesn't look as sharp.
What is "the screen problem?"Damn that sucks, I have a unit I need to send in for the screen problem and I'm not feeling super confident about it now.
Here's V2
View attachment 1541
Can anyone direct me to a tutorial on posting pictures (removing meta-data, etc. and the posting procedures for newFC)?
I anticipate popping the hood on Mighty very soon, since the new batteries from @JCat have finally hit my home post office!
Yesterday I cut open the screw holes and found a 'close enough' hex wrench. Finally procured some 99% iso alcohol last week (that's been scarce around these parts...). Only wish I had a replacement chamber bowl to put in there.
What is "the screen problem?"
Same here, it goes in and out. It's never been outside, never had direct sunlight on it. 7 months old.@vapviking The LCD display is going out, less than a year old.
Same here, it goes in and out. It's never been outside, never had direct sunlight on it. 7 months old.
Super. Thanks.If you're using an android phone you can remove EXIF with a free app "Photo EXIF Editor". On Win10 you can right click on the photo and go into properties to remove all personal data.
For hosting there are a few good sites, I've been using www.imgbb.com and it's served me well. You can also upload photos directly to NFC but you have to watch your file size I believe.
The easiest way is to hit the insert image icon and just drag and drop the image into the dialog box or choose the "upload image" option. If you want to use imgbb or another image host first, you would simply select "by url" when using the insert image icon.If I upload to imgbb, do I then copy/paste them into dialog box? Or do I use the "insert image (ctrl P)" button to link the url?
Or could it be "Insert Media?" Or "Insert File?" I do get myself tied up in ??? sometimes...
I always used the Bbcode link for the old site and kept doing that for NFC. Don't you know if it matters which they're linked, or does either way work? I I usually link a smaller sized image than the original to in case some don't have high bandwidth connections.The easiest way is to hit the insert image icon and just drag and drop the image into the dialog box or choose the "upload image" option. If you want to use imgbb or another image host first, you would simply select "by url" when using the insert image icon.
No, it always stays in place.Question ,I can't seem to find it and I know someone has already posted.....using the Data 3d V3 WPA do you remove.blue oring. around heater when using? TIA
I use it , just was wondering if I was remembering correctly....thanks!No, it always stays in place.
Superb write up! Really nicely documentedDis-Assembly & Battery Replacement, Mighty (#MY0234XX, circa 10/2015)
-- New batteries, internal cleaning (June 17, 2020)
As I mentioned a couple posts up, the batteries came from @JCat , though idk the spec, they are either 3,000 or maybe 3120 mAh versus 2700’s that came out. His thread for replacement battery, instructions, video, discussion etc.:
Custom Crafty Battery Packs for Easy Replacement
Separately, there’s a pretty good Youtube (below) of a battery job on a Mighty, very helpful; there don’t seem to be many around.
I cannot vouch for the safety of the soldering practices in this video (I just don’t know enough about it).
He also did not point out the bottom latch clearly.
To open the case he used a 1.5 mm hex driver. I believe the 1.5 mm is probably correct, but I could not get mine to fit. I used a 1/16” hex driver instead. It worked fine right up to the end; on re-tightening the last bit I probably did some damage to the screw. I hope I don’t need to open the case ever again.
The Youtube does show the tabs and slots at the top clearly and how to slide the case open.
I hope I’m not too imprecise or redundant in my descriptions below. I was not intending a full-blown instructional-type guide, just some of my experience.
I exposed the screw holes with a sharp knife:
View attachment 1616
The two halves of the case interlock at three points, two at the top and one at the bottom. After removing the two case screws, remove the orange poker and under it is the tab to push. It is visible in next photo. Push in on tab and pry the halves apart slightly at the bottom seam using a screwdriver or poker. This took a minute or two; stubborn parts after years together.
Do not pull the halves more than about ½” apart at bottom -- they are attached by tabs at the top that can easily break. The Youtube shows these steps clearly.
You can see the 4 top tabs hanging down from the top edge in next photo. They fit into slots on the other half.
Slide the back cover up so it’s tabs clear their matching slots on the housing front cover. This also took some gentle persuasion. I did break both slots at the top, but one end of each did not break off, so I was able to re-assemble “okay” when the time came. Phew.
I now understand the reason some Mighty's seem to "come apart at the seam" along the top. The slots are not much sturdier than the little railings that break so easily near the chamber sides. The tabs you see here are stronger than the slots into which they fit.
View attachment 1627
Next are existing internals. There is debris at the entry to the air path, seen in next two photos:
View attachment 1634
View attachment 1619
And next shows the air path entry hole, cleared but not yet cleaned. It’s the crescent shaped hole at the bottom of the plastic case that holds the heater and its' housing, the heater's temp sensor and the chamber.
View attachment 1620
The plastic housing and metal insert that holds the heater and chamber. The insert is shown again in the photo that follows this one.
View attachment 1621
Next photo is the insert assembly that houses the heater and the air path and has the chamber fastened to it.
The round hole centered at the bottom is where the heater tube inserts, and the semi-circular hole is the air intake.
The heater itself is a tube-like stick, seen on the mat in the background of the photo below. I did not get a photo of the heater’s temp sensor.
Note the black o-ring (was originally blue, silicone) around the outside of the chamber. I should have measured this, it should be s.o.p. to replace this as part of this procedure; maybe a guess of size can be made based on the chamber it encircles. The ring broke into 3 pieces and I did not have a match, but I did fashion one from some high temp silicone tubing and was able to move forward. Unfortunately, no pics of that either.
I soaked the metal insert (all aluminum?) in iso alcohol for about 90 minutes. You can’t see light through this tube; there is some sort of baffle at the top just below chamber holes, that prevents seeing anything inside the tubes. It would be fascinating to see the insides! I could not ascertain if or where the two paths might join together; didn’t spend much time exploring that.
View attachment 1623
Next are two pics of the new batteries.
@JCat soldered the leads on, added the proper plugs and wrapped all. Nicely done!
I swapped the temp. sensors on to them from the old batteries, and I also peeled/stuck some end covers from the old to the new. There was also a bumper stuck on top end of each battery, for snug fit.
View attachment 1624
View attachment 1625
All back in place in next photo. On the left-hand battery I did have to move the temp sensor a little to the right before the cover would fit on. It is a fussy fit, all the stuff in there!
View attachment 1626
As I mentioned, the two slots at top of case broke partially during opening, though they are holding well enough on assembly.
I also had to fashion an o-ring to replace the brittle one.
In the end, it all snapped together and looks just fine.
I replaced all the other seals, the chamber screen and the mouthpiece stem. I leave c/u screen off lately.
I admit that I wanted the chamber to look clean, so I used a very fine sandpaper on the aluminum chamber walls, just enough to clean it up. I’m sure this has created some fine scratches that will just trap gunk sooner, but I have been trying to use capsules a lot lately and using them keeps the bowl cleaner. I don't recommend the sandpaper treatment, btw. To the bowl, that is...
The draw is marginally better, I believe mainly due to the removal of lint/debris from the entrance to the airway. Deep cleaning (iso soaking) the air path had to help on some level as well.
The Mighty, when fully charged now heats in 1 minute, 15 seconds (29C to 180C). I believe this is faster than when new!
I've now got the "20% more battery power" Mighty.
Long may it run!
With a little luck, I won't need a Mighty+!
Thanks again @JCat for taking the initiative, and to @SquirrelMaster and @Stu for teaching me how to do photos here.
I've learned that 10 pix per post is the limit, good thing that's all I had...
I never got a sticker with a Mighty so you are lucky, it seems all the gold is for their anniversary so.very strange, not 3d in my case just a cheapo sticker with mighty, volcano and crafty and their logos in the middle.Three stickers on a gold foil, nothing much, not even thick vinyl , they seems really cheap compared to the 3d volcano sticker which have some 3d structure which pops out. Did you received different ones than me? I did not received any card for registering and the mighty is from the fall of 2019.
@Chemdawg Did you tried some vegetable oil on the joint?
edit : can somebody speak about the updated materials on crafty +? is it cracking less?
@vapviking any benefits of registering it ? +1year warranty should be there
A whip can help, but you are on the right track thinking about water tool.I'm looking at getting a bubbler for it but considering using a whip from the original mighty mouth piece. Something about having water directly over the electronics makes me nervous.
I own both for several month and they are hardly comparable. The best comparison would be using a dosing capsule with the whip on the hybrid and one capsule with the mighty. In this case the hybrid will give you the faster extraction, even at same temps. With pump assisted draws and a proper heatsoak you can finish a capsule in a few big rips on the whip. The mighty is always a longer session with a lot of draws but it is just super convenient to carry it trough the house or laying back on the couch/bed and sip. For me and my VAS, owning both is the best option. So I use my portables trough the day and end up with a desktop(mostly hybrid) in the evening. Using bags on the hybrid is also another great option which I use a lot.Well guys, my Mighty is no more. I had it exchanged for a full refund with PIU as I was tired of being told that it was ok and the only other option they could give me is an open box unit. It seems to me in their response was.. that they insisted that it wasn't dropping 20 degrees with every hit. Also another reply I got from Puff It Up said they they only tested it with nothing in the bowl. I don't know, but I was done waiting. And just as I was in the checkout cart at S&B (getting ready to glady pay $100 more than PIU's Price on the Mighty) .. I started thinking about just picking up the hybrid instead.
I'm not sure what the problem was but I don't accept Open Box Units. Since my intention was just to go ahead and pay full price with it over at S&B, I'm actually thinking of just biting the bullet and jumping straight to the Hybrid instead. I'll be spending the next few days trying to make an educated decision on it. I think either way, I'll be buying another mighty again down the line after the Hybrid because I have a love/hate thing with my Dynavap and it's consistency with performance so I never use it anymore..
Anyone here have experience with both the Mighty and the Hybrid that doesn't mind giving me their personal pros and cons of each? Love to hear from you!