Sounds like the flame is too low or far away. Usually when people have trouble with these they are charring, if you're not even getting a hit it sounds like you've still got a lot of room to play with.
Sticky Brick Labs Vaporizer
- Thread starter Justpassedu
- Start date
Cervical CBD
Well-Known Member
I tried with carb and cork. I’m not getting much of a flame out of my Eagle torch even turned all the way up. It came full of butane and I’ve used a shit ton.
Yea that’s what I think too. It even takes a long time to get my Cvap hot with the torches I have...maybe I’ll try something with a longer flame? I have the Eagle that came with the Runt and a cheap Ronson Jetlite that I haven’t adjusted.
shopdognyc
Well-Known Member
So my Brick (runt) showed up Monday...didnt have the chance to open it, was pretty jammed up yesterday but I did manage to sneak in a trial run.
Initial impressions are great! Obviously as my first time using it I have a lot of learning to do and figuring certain things out, hopefully you guys can help get me straightened out!
I got the Black Limba for a couple of reasons, mostly my first picks were sold outbut seriously the Black Limba looks amazing anyway so I'm not mad at it. The other thing I considered was I had read in here that the Limba was one of the more neutral tasting woods, and I figured for my first vape in this style, I should start off with something neutral.
So I unboxed it yesterday, and started fucking around with it. Read the instructions real quick, which I had already read online anyway... assembled it, tossed some flower in the thing and gave it a shot. I have to say it was a really weird experience at first for somebody whos never used a brick or anything similar, but sure enough, in a few seconds I started tasting and feeling some vapor and we were off! I got a few decent clouds, extremely satisfying as I thought it would be much more difficult to get the basics down, but there I was...taking a few back to back solid pulls. They werent anything special but it was a lot better than I was expecting for a first timer so I am really happy about that. So I'll be doing a lot more starting today and trying to use it (mostly) exclusively until I get the hang of it. I have some initial questions though!
I have the carb corked based on some advice here, and I was pulling the bowl piece off to clear the brick, when I really think I should be pulling the intake brick off? Rather just cracking it and breaking the seal? Or does it not matter?
I figured I would start with the restrictor plate in. One was already in the stem, with the nipple side inserted into the glass. Looking at the manual, it has the nipple side down, pointing to the bowl. I did flip it to nipple-to-bowl like the manual said, I wasn't sure if it was shipped that way for some certain reason or not. Going through the thread it seems to be basically user preference with the majority of users going nipple to bowl, would that be accurate?
How much flower are you guys putting in, and how much are you tamping? I put in a little, enough to cover the screen for sure and then a little on top of that with a light tamp. knowing that it was just going to be a quick trial run. The manual says not to overfill past the inner rim but that seems like it could hold a LOT if you went up to the inner rim especially with a little tamping lol. After my few hits checking the bowl between hits and a little stirring, I had a pretty nice light brown toasty looking load, had more to give for sure but I wasn't going to keep going, and dumped it. The little I did have hit me a lot harder than I was expecting about 10 mins later lol. Not that it was too much, but figuring I was learning the brick I wasn't going to get too much out of it in a quick and dirty session, but I was wrong.
Last question I think for now, whats everybody mostly doing with the bowl screens? How do you know when they need to be changed? Is the general consensus to toss them out and replace with a new one or give them a quick iso bath and re use?
Other than that, just wanna say that SBL seems to be a really solid company to work with and I wouldn't hesitate ordering from them again. The product itself is great - fit and finish, handling, quality, I didnt notice anything at all that I wish they had done different. Granted this is my first butane vape but I still feel like its obviously a high quality unit. Customer service was also really accommodating, I ordered on a Thursday, they shipped out Friday. My problem was I wanted a WPA but they didnt have it in stock - again based on advice here I figured I would eventually I would want to run it through water. Trying to learn it dry first, but I wanted to have the WPA ready for when I want to try it. It was sold out everywhere I could find so I decided to order the brick and figure out the WPA another time.
Friday morning, I got shipment notification and was reading more into this thread and more and more comments about how the OG is good for being dedicated to dry, the runt is good dry but a little more harsh and a lot of people like to run it through water. So I looked around for the WPA again, double checked all of the 3rd party sites again but still couldnt find one. On a whim I checked SBL website, and the WPA was in stock! I tried to order it but the shipping was more than the WPA itself, so I fired off a quick email to customer service explained that I had bought a brick and wanted to add the WPA to my order and save on the shipping, even if it meant delaying the shipment until next week. Of course this was dependant on them still actually having the box, which I doubted after getting shipment confirmation a few hours prior - I still hoped they had just generated a label and not gone to the post office yet lol.
Sure enough Izzy got back to me very quickly, said no problem, it can be added to the box and they'll send me a digital invoice - provided I pay in the next 15 mins, they can still get my box out the same day! Easy enough, I got the invoice, paid it, and they were able to still get my shipment out on Friday.
Anyway, thats my SBL story! My bad if I rambled too much
ETA: Idk if anything changed but I didnt get an honest lighter, I got an eagle torch. looks like this:
Amazon.com: Pack of 5 Eagle Angle Torch 45 Degree Single Jet Flame Torch Lighter Windproof Refillable Lighter Assorted Color: Health & Personal Care
Buy Pack of 5 Eagle Angle Torch 45 Degree Single Jet Flame Torch Lighter Windproof Refillable Lighter Assorted Color on Amazon.com ✓ FREE SHIPPING on qualified orderswww.amazon.com
Welcome as I am not that far ahead of you with the Sticky Bricks. I purchased them in this order out of my craze, Runt, Flip, Junior, OG. The OG I got had some QC issues, but they were pretty quick to swap it out. Replacement is on its way. I was tempted to try but didn't use so I think better swap for them. I've heard in the past where they just sent brand new units. Maybe the case for me if I used.
The mouthpiece also had a slight crack. Response time by Izzy was quick, and I like working with a company that can respond in a acceptable amount of time.
Play with the flame length. Its been tough for me, but I just let the flame go a bit longer and wow. First big hit yesterday on my Flip. I also put a bit more than just covering the screen. I think you will find that amount is just barely enough, but its the advice for you to learn in small steps. Less waste of herb.
If you managed to get a WPA, lucky you. I will have to keep my eye out for that too, and that bubbler as well.
I think you will go a long with with that Runt. I'm just crazy with a very big herd of tools that I enjoy cycling through.
Another tip, I use the brush that I got with my Storz & Bickel Mighty to brush the screen clean. Sometimes, the AVB doesn't all come out very well. May go a long way for you as well.
nonamekevin
Well-Known Member
So my Brick (runt) showed up Monday...didnt have the chance to open it, was pretty jammed up yesterday but I did manage to sneak in a trial run.
Initial impressions are great! Obviously as my first time using it I have a lot of learning to do and figuring certain things out, hopefully you guys can help get me straightened out!
I got the Black Limba for a couple of reasons, mostly my first picks were sold out
So I unboxed it yesterday, and started fucking around with it. Read the instructions real quick, which I had already read online anyway... assembled it, tossed some flower in the thing and gave it a shot. I have to say it was a really weird experience at first for somebody whos never used a brick or anything similar, but sure enough, in a few seconds I started tasting and feeling some vapor and we were off! I got a few decent clouds, extremely satisfying as I thought it would be much more difficult to get the basics down, but there I was...taking a few back to back solid pulls. They werent anything special but it was a lot better than I was expecting for a first timer so I am really happy about that. So I'll be doing a lot more starting today and trying to use it (mostly) exclusively until I get the hang of it. I have some initial questions though!
I have the carb corked based on some advice here, and I was pulling the bowl piece off to clear the brick, when I really think I should be pulling the intake brick off? Rather just cracking it and breaking the seal? Or does it not matter?
I figured I would start with the restrictor plate in. One was already in the stem, with the nipple side inserted into the glass. Looking at the manual, it has the nipple side down, pointing to the bowl. I did flip it to nipple-to-bowl like the manual said, I wasn't sure if it was shipped that way for some certain reason or not. Going through the thread it seems to be basically user preference with the majority of users going nipple to bowl, would that be accurate?
How much flower are you guys putting in, and how much are you tamping? I put in a little, enough to cover the screen for sure and then a little on top of that with a light tamp. knowing that it was just going to be a quick trial run. The manual says not to overfill past the inner rim but that seems like it could hold a LOT if you went up to the inner rim especially with a little tamping lol. After my few hits checking the bowl between hits and a little stirring, I had a pretty nice light brown toasty looking load, had more to give for sure but I wasn't going to keep going, and dumped it. The little I did have hit me a lot harder than I was expecting about 10 mins later lol. Not that it was too much, but figuring I was learning the brick I wasn't going to get too much out of it in a quick and dirty session, but I was wrong.
Last question I think for now, whats everybody mostly doing with the bowl screens? How do you know when they need to be changed? Is the general consensus to toss them out and replace with a new one or give them a quick iso bath and re use?
Other than that, just wanna say that SBL seems to be a really solid company to work with and I wouldn't hesitate ordering from them again. The product itself is great - fit and finish, handling, quality, I didnt notice anything at all that I wish they had done different. Granted this is my first butane vape but I still feel like its obviously a high quality unit. Customer service was also really accommodating, I ordered on a Thursday, they shipped out Friday. My problem was I wanted a WPA but they didnt have it in stock - again based on advice here I figured I would eventually I would want to run it through water. Trying to learn it dry first, but I wanted to have the WPA ready for when I want to try it. It was sold out everywhere I could find so I decided to order the brick and figure out the WPA another time.
Friday morning, I got shipment notification and was reading more into this thread and more and more comments about how the OG is good for being dedicated to dry, the runt is good dry but a little more harsh and a lot of people like to run it through water. So I looked around for the WPA again, double checked all of the 3rd party sites again but still couldnt find one. On a whim I checked SBL website, and the WPA was in stock! I tried to order it but the shipping was more than the WPA itself, so I fired off a quick email to customer service explained that I had bought a brick and wanted to add the WPA to my order and save on the shipping, even if it meant delaying the shipment until next week. Of course this was dependant on them still actually having the box, which I doubted after getting shipment confirmation a few hours prior - I still hoped they had just generated a label and not gone to the post office yet lol.
Sure enough Izzy got back to me very quickly, said no problem, it can be added to the box and they'll send me a digital invoice - provided I pay in the next 15 mins, they can still get my box out the same day! Easy enough, I got the invoice, paid it, and they were able to still get my shipment out on Friday.
Anyway, thats my SBL story! My bad if I rambled too much
ETA: Idk if anything changed but I didnt get an honest lighter, I got an eagle torch. looks like this:
Amazon.com: Pack of 5 Eagle Angle Torch 45 Degree Single Jet Flame Torch Lighter Windproof Refillable Lighter Assorted Color: Health & Personal Care
Buy Pack of 5 Eagle Angle Torch 45 Degree Single Jet Flame Torch Lighter Windproof Refillable Lighter Assorted Color on Amazon.com ✓ FREE SHIPPING on qualified orderswww.amazon.com
Congrats on your limba runt homie! They are truly awesome pieces.
I break the bowl brick off when I want to clear the runt. It's a technique I picked up from using the runt exclusively with my water piece. It doesn't matter breaking off the intake or bowl brick, I think I got used to breaking off the bowl because I know I'd burn myself grabbing the intake after a long session.
I keep the restrictor disk in all my bricks, nipple pointing down in all except for the flip brick.
For flower, I fill the bowl to the edge before the bevel with a medium-fine ish grind and then tamp down lightly. Grind and tamp are big factors in how the heat will flow through the brick; too loose, I tend to get hot spots, while too tight leads to tight draw and combustion.
For screens, I picked up a bunch of screens off Amazon for cheap (like 200 for $6 or something.) it's not very green of me, as ss screens will last a long time, but I toss them in the bin. When you start noticing it's easier to combust, it's likely a clogged screen. I generally replace them when the only part of the screen that isn't clogged with plant material is a very small part of the center of the screen.
Sucks you're not getting the results you are looking for homie. Let's see if we can't break down where the issue is. You mentioned you've tried different flame lengths, different draw speeds. How about the carb or restrictor disk, are they in or out? Do you tamp the bowl and how much are you putting in the brick?
Cervical CBD
Well-Known Member
I’ve tried different size bowls loosely packed and with and without the carb. Pretty sure it comes with the disc in and an extra?
shopdognyc
Well-Known Member
@nonamekevin would be your expert compared to me, but this is the approach i am trying now. I have been solely trying to learn on my Flip which is supposedly difficult. I got some really thick clouds yesterday and the feeling of euphoria was so awesome, but that was probably after a couple of weeks of trying. Not too confident, I'd grab my other vapes, but yesterday just finished my first teaching class of the semester and wanted to wind down.
I'm using the Honest torch, and I have a bit longer then they recommend which I believe is 3/4 to 1". I try and aim the outer flame inside and angle it up the perpendicular. I let it heat first a bit before I draw, and when I draw I try to draw as slow as possible. I am using a dab rib that is a bit too small, but I can see the condensation starting to form inside. I am impatient with this so its hard trying to not draw hard, but as I start seeing vapor form, I'll begin to draw a bit harder.
I've seen some advice to draw hard.
With my Runt, I cover the carb, and depending on how long or how hard I pull, I can feel the heat on my finger.
Can you give feedback on your draw speed?
I also try and move the flame around, and if it catches on the glass, it goes red, so I know I went to the edge, then go the opposite direction.
I'm using the Honest torch, and I have a bit longer then they recommend which I believe is 3/4 to 1". I try and aim the outer flame inside and angle it up the perpendicular. I let it heat first a bit before I draw, and when I draw I try to draw as slow as possible. I am using a dab rib that is a bit too small, but I can see the condensation starting to form inside. I am impatient with this so its hard trying to not draw hard, but as I start seeing vapor form, I'll begin to draw a bit harder.
I've seen some advice to draw hard.
With my Runt, I cover the carb, and depending on how long or how hard I pull, I can feel the heat on my finger.
Can you give feedback on your draw speed?
I also try and move the flame around, and if it catches on the glass, it goes red, so I know I went to the edge, then go the opposite direction.
nonamekevin
Well-Known Member
Correct, the bricks come with a disk installed and an extra. Always good to confirm that it is installed. Start with the nipple pointing down toward the herb and push the glass flame intake down as far as you can.
Try tamping your bowl down slightly, don't smash it. When I hear someone say they feel like they are getting nothing but hot air, that is one of the things that comes to mind, along with a small flame too close to the intake.
Ive put a link showing my technique up before, but it's been awhile, so here it is again. I use a restrictor disk and carb cork. You can see my tamp technique. I would not advise trying to learn on the wpa, but my technique is the same dry or through water.
iammyself
Well-Known Member
I have had the same result when I’ve tried different flame angles. I wanted the flame to go at an upward angle, away from the body of the brick, but couldn’t get any vapor that way. I now use a pretty steep downward angle, the flame hits the intake at a 45° angle at the tip of the outer flame, coming from above the intake.
shopdognyc
Well-Known Member
@nonamekevin thanks for sharing that. Do you prefer or get better results with the 3 torch flame?
@Cervical CBD I've seen a post somewhere people having better success with a different torch than the Honest that it comes with.
@Cervical CBD I've seen a post somewhere people having better success with a different torch than the Honest that it comes with.
nonamekevin
Well-Known Member
Yes, I only use the triple flame with my bricks. The wide flame completely fills the intake with heated air, so worrying about flame angle doesn't become an issue, in fact, it makes it easier to find the sweet spot (as observed in the video when you hear the whistling sound). I get vapor production very quick, before finding the sweet spot, but then when I do get the sweet spot, it is full steam ahead!! That's when I have to draw very fast before combustion occurs.
shopdognyc
Well-Known Member
I got something to try tonight thanks always for sharing your knowledge
Congrats on your limba runt homie! They are truly awesome pieces.
I break the bowl brick off when I want to clear the runt. It's a technique I picked up from using the runt exclusively with my water piece. It doesn't matter breaking off the intake or bowl brick, I think I got used to breaking off the bowl because I know I'd burn myself grabbing the intake after a long session.
I keep the restrictor disk in all my bricks, nipple pointing down in all except for the flip brick.
For flower, I fill the bowl to the edge before the bevel with a medium-fine ish grind and then tamp down lightly. Grind and tamp are big factors in how the heat will flow through the brick; too loose, I tend to get hot spots, while too tight leads to tight draw and combustion.
For screens, I picked up a bunch of screens off Amazon for cheap (like 200 for $6 or something.) it's not very green of me, as ss screens will last a long time, but I toss them in the bin. When you start noticing it's easier to combust, it's likely a clogged screen. I generally replace them when the only part of the screen that isn't clogged with plant material is a very small part of the center of the screen.
Thanks man! Appreciate the pointers. Everything makes sense...especially breaking the bowl rather than the hot intake after session lol. Any chance you have the link for those screens handy? If not no big deal, I'm sure I can search the thread or google it. A lot to keep in mind that could encourage combustion! I get it though, less air flow leads to more heat building up. What I dont understand is how the restrictor disk works, I think the general concept is that it spreads the heat out over a wider surface area rather than just blasting it with hot air, maybe reducing the direct heat and incorporating a little indirect heat gives you more of an even roast.
Also what triple flame torch do you use? I'm debating between trying to learn it with a single flame or just go straight to triple... hmm
You'll get it figured out. Some pretty new users in here as well as some very experienced ones, I'm sure we can get you going. I say "we" as a general term considering I just used mine for the first time yesterday... truthfully I have no idea what I'm doing yet. That said, I did use the eagle torch it came with and I used it on medium yesterday.
I quoted @iammyself because I think it was him a couple pages back posted a little diagram of where he aims his flame. Basically pointed the flame at the bend in the elbow, thats what I tried on my first attempt and had some success. Maybe take a look for that post and try that, if you haven't already? I also inhaled extremely slowly for the first couple seconds while heat built up in the flower then I sped up.
Thank you! I could see how you bought so many lol its very tempting... but awesome to hear SBL has been great to you as well!
Yeah I used a medium flame, yesterday, I'll probably stick with that until I can get a better handle on how it works, then I'll up it a bit. Its hard for me to get used to thinking about the flame as a heater, and how different adjustments effect the heat, changing the flame size, position of the flame itself, distance to intake, etc etc and what each variation does.
I did actually get the WPA, held it in my hands, if you're looking they still have them in stock on the SBL website. No luck on the bubbler though, but I do want that too lol. I have to get a brush though!
Yes, I only use the triple flame with my bricks. The wide flame completely fills the intake with heated air, so worrying about flame angle doesn't become an issue, in fact, it makes it easier to find the sweet spot (as observed in the video when you hear the whistling sound). I get vapor production very quick, before finding the sweet spot, but then when I do get the sweet spot, it is full steam ahead!! That's when I have to draw very fast before combustion occurs.
I feel like this will be a challenge, finding the sweet spot/judging it based on the sound of the whistle. Its always hard to compare audio on a video to real life for me and I'm basically half deaf anyway lol. Not exactly, but my hearing does suck and I have a minor case of tinnitis so theres that. I definitely heard a whistle yesterday, but how do I know when its the "right" whistle?
nonamekevin
Well-Known Member
Torch
Screens
Amazon.com: 200pcs Metal Pipe Screens, 5/8 Inch Stainless Steel Screens, Pipe Screens with Metal Box: Health & Personal Care
Buy 200pcs Metal Pipe Screens, 5/8 Inch Stainless Steel Screens, Pipe Screens with Metal Box on Amazon.com ✓ FREE SHIPPING on qualified orders
www.amazon.com
My thought on how the restrictor disk works: The orifice size of the disk is smaller in diameter than the air path in the intake brick itself. This reduction in air path diameter slows the velocity of the heated air entering the intake such that, you can build up heated air in the intake, almost like a "heat reservoir." The more heat in the "reservoir", the better, because if your reservoir ever goes empty, then you are drawing both heated air and fresh air through the flame intake. You only want fresh air to enter through the fresh air intake port, which mixes with the heated air from the flame intake. Again, if your reservoir goes empty, you'll be pulling more fresh air than heated air, which imo, makes the experience inconsistent.
Not sure I've mentioned it before, but what really got me interested in the sticky brick lineup was the supreme vaporizer. I'm not going to make this a comparison discussion as I've not used a supreme, but the first principles of how both the supreme and brick work is very similar. Both use essentially an unlimited heat supply (torch vs massive thermal element) and both create turbulence to thoroughly mix and heat incoming air. What put me on to the brick over the supreme was the price, but fucking hell, I've bought enough bricks to have purchased a supreme by now.
iammyself
Well-Known Member
I’ve adjusted my technique a bit since then. I use a slightly longer flame, and closer to a 45° angle. Then I adjust the angle up and down a few degrees until I hit the sweet spot. I also try to keep the tip of the outer flame right at the intake. This seems to give me a more consistent result, but doesn’t extract as quickly. So if I’m in a rush, or just want max thc now, I’ll go back to my old method. Good tip about starting your draw slowly to let the heat build up.
Cervical CBD
Well-Known Member
Still can’t figure it out and already hate torch lighters...
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
think of what you need to take from the lighter... you just need to grab the heat... you don't have to point the torch directly to the intake but grab the heat.... inhale slowly when you think you grab good amount of heat. if you grab alot of heat - draw faster -> a "feature" for advanced users, when you deliver alot of heat inside, you want the speed of the draw to be bigger so you won't combust.....
but start from slowly inhale and not too much heat, you'll get it... you just need to train on it....
and I also recommend the Aomai torch for SBL devices.... great torch....
shopdognyc
Well-Known Member
So I just learned something that I tested when I got home today. In the past I was aiming up into the intake at an angle, hitting the top part.
i tried aiming down at the bottom of the intake and boom! Was a enormous difference wow. I think I created a few times more vapor this way.
i tried aiming down at the bottom of the intake and boom! Was a enormous difference wow. I think I created a few times more vapor this way.
Torch
Screens
Amazon.com: 200pcs Metal Pipe Screens, 5/8 Inch Stainless Steel Screens, Pipe Screens with Metal Box: Health & Personal Care
Buy 200pcs Metal Pipe Screens, 5/8 Inch Stainless Steel Screens, Pipe Screens with Metal Box on Amazon.com ✓ FREE SHIPPING on qualified orderswww.amazon.com
My thought on how the restrictor disk works: The orifice size of the disk is smaller in diameter than the air path in the intake brick itself. This reduction in air path diameter slows the velocity of the heated air entering the intake such that, you can build up heated air in the intake, almost like a "heat reservoir." The more heat in the "reservoir", the better, because if your reservoir ever goes empty, then you are drawing both heated air and fresh air through the flame intake. You only want fresh air to enter through the fresh air intake port, which mixes with the heated air from the flame intake. Again, if your reservoir goes empty, you'll be pulling more fresh air than heated air, which imo, makes the experience inconsistent.
Not sure I've mentioned it before, but what really got me interested in the sticky brick lineup was the supreme vaporizer. I'm not going to make this a comparison discussion as I've not used a supreme, but the first principles of how both the supreme and brick work is very similar. Both use essentially an unlimited heat supply (torch vs massive thermal element) and both create turbulence to thoroughly mix and heat incoming air. What put me on to the brick over the supreme was the price, but fucking hell, I've bought enough bricks to have purchased a supreme by now.
Makes sense to me! Thinking about it like a heat reservoir helps for sure.
I think I had beginners luck my first time... last night I had a much more difficult time getting good pulls. Last hit of the night I got a massive rip and a dark brown hotspot in the bud, but other than that, light and wispy for the most part with light golden AVB. Maybe over thinking it... I'll try again later. I think I identified the problem, or at least part of it... I got cocky and was inhaling too fast to start. At the end of the night I reminded myself to slow the fuck down, and I think that was the ticket. I basically slowed my inhale to the point where I figure I was inhaling slower than the torch was pushing air in, and bam. I'm not sure the best way to word it, but to build up heat, you want the torch working harder/moving more air than your lungs, to the point you're barely inhaling until you get vapor. Then speed up your inhale. I'll see if I can repeat my last hit from yesterday later. I hate when work gets in the way of play
shopdognyc
Well-Known Member
Progress is great and I think with these great pieces just need some miles until it makes sense. Even after you get it there are probably nuances to take it further for you.
Yeah thats what I figure... so many different variables go into making this function, you can change minor little things and really get it exactly how you want. Itll take a while to figure that out lol.
Hopefully an "easy to learn, difficult to master" type of thing.
Hopefully an "easy to learn, difficult to master" type of thing.
Vapor_Eyes
taste buds
When first getting the hang of Bricks I think it’s best to only change one variable at a time so you can see how each variable effects the experience.
It sounds like you need a strong flame on your torch. Make sure the carb is covered or corked and start drawing slowly at first until you feel/taste vapor, then increase your draw speed to keep up with the strong flame. You can use your draw speed or the distance of the flame from the intake to modulate the heat in the chamber.
It might be helpful to do some dry runs with an empty chamber to find the sweet spot where Bricks whistle. You don’t necessarily need the full whistle for good extraction but if you hear it you know you are getting the best extraction possible. To get the whistle I place the flame tip in the center of the intake and then angle it forward slightly towards the carb. This is when using the straight intake. With the curved intake I aim in the center and angle downward slightly.
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shopdognyc
Well-Known Member
This would be my second week of use. I have just been focused on the Flip. It is much harder for me to get vapor than the Runt or Junior. I tried used a regular scientific beaker, but I think that was too big. I had a small dab rig that I could stick the Flip in, and thats been mixed for me, until the last two days.
Yesterday I produced so much vapor, I had to stop my draw and spit out. Was really exciting for me. I took a pause and went and probably went closer to combusting.
Don't think you need additional glassware, but the WPA adapter that is available may be a nice option to expand your gear. I added some other things like the butter oil to condition the piece, and some extra rings, and covered me for shipping.
Can you explain the whistle? I hear something, but what does that indicate for me? What am I looking for?
Also I loaded my bowl a little more fuller than suggested. So, the quality or amount of vapor you were getting maybe due to the amount you put in. The instructions say just enough to cover the screen, this is to practice.
Yesterday I produced so much vapor, I had to stop my draw and spit out. Was really exciting for me. I took a pause and went and probably went closer to combusting.
Don't think you need additional glassware, but the WPA adapter that is available may be a nice option to expand your gear. I added some other things like the butter oil to condition the piece, and some extra rings, and covered me for shipping.
Can you explain the whistle? I hear something, but what does that indicate for me? What am I looking for?
Also I loaded my bowl a little more fuller than suggested. So, the quality or amount of vapor you were getting maybe due to the amount you put in. The instructions say just enough to cover the screen, this is to practice.
Vapor_Eyes
taste buds
The whistle is a distinct, high pitched tone that happens when you draw and your torch is in the sweet spot. Try centering your torch in the intake and then slightly changing the angle and distance. When you get close to the sweet spot you can hear a low whistle and the closer you get the louder the whistle is. When it’s sharp and loud is when the torch is in the ideal spot for extraction in my experience. It is not necessary to get a good hit but it helps and it is hard not to get a good hit if you hear the whistle, unless you push it too far and combust.
I missed some posts and didn’t see that @Cervical CBD was using the restrictor disk and Eagle torch. I have several Eagle torches and only one gets hot enough for good extraction, I’m not a fan of them. I would definitely recommend taking out the restrictor disk if you are not getting enough heat from your torch at its max setting. You may have to reduce the torch setting with the disk out or increase the distance from the intake, at least at first to make sure you don’t combust. It also may be helpful to get another torch.
This is my favorite torch for Bricks. It has a wide temperature range, and a thick flame with consistent length. The Honest torches are decent too but the flame is thinner and more importantly, the length varies a bit during use so the extraction isn’t as consistent.
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