Discontinued RBT Splinter (All Versions)


Trenchtown Rock
I thought they were to remove some of the slack space and prevent the battery moving around inside the case. I also thought in some cases the devices could use 18650s or 26650s and the sleve was for the 18650s. But those were just guesses...
Yeah I have some with those type of hard plastic sleeves for different sized batteries. These are flimsy paper thin inserts. With them in, I can insert the batteries but it’s not easy. Getting the batteries out requires me to wrap the mod in a towel and give it a few slaps with a rubber mallet (not good as a long term solution). This after trying several brands of 18650’s. Even without the inserts it’s a pretty tight fit.


Told by Stu and Pak to shut up. So I did.
Oh def pull that shit outta there. It tripped me out at first also but its supposed to be removed.

Ok exactly what I was thinking, never seen those before but the mods work fine with them, thought it might be some new safety add on.

TIL my batteries weren’t meant to be hard to remove from the mod.


Well-Known Member
The V2 has bumped the Mighty out of rotation, it's probably been used once in about six weeks. The downside is the Splinter needs stirring, but cruising in TCR is a good time. Splinter has been my daily portable carry for about 4-5 weeks now.

Splinter produces flavor and efficiency, two things every vaper loves!

Grass Yes

Well-Known Member
The downside is the Splinter needs stirring, but cruising in TCR is a good time.
I don't find that I need to stir my Splinter V2, it works pretty evenly for me. However, I do have to rotate my stem on another splinter-style device (xtractor) to avoid hot spotting. I do a screen pack, so maybe it's different with a joint pack.


Well-Known Member
I don't find that I need to stir my Splinter V2, it works pretty evenly for me. However, I do have to rotate my stem on another splinter-style device (xtractor) to avoid hot spotting. I do a screen pack, so maybe it's different with a joint pack.
Awesome! I should've prefaced my statement by saying I haven't had my device very long, so I'm sure I could improve my approach. I pack the basket and stir after every draw, also slowly rotating the stem while drawing. I'm not new to convection vaping but I know I'm really late to the RBT party so I'll get back to reading posts from you guys who have had your units for a while.

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/CC/FW7/OAB
I gave up on stirring, especially with temp control regulation, the extraction is pretty even, if I am using more un regulated, I might dump the bowl, then suck it up in reverse, but actually stirring in those tiny bowls is so fucking annoying I'm never doing it again lol

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/CC/FW7/OAB
Because I mostly vape through water I am hitting pretty aggressively (sucking hard :cool:) so that is likely a factor in needing to stir. But "need" is, of course, a matter of opinion.

Yeah if I'm using it through water, I'm killing the bowl in one to three hits, stirring not necessary with temp control, but I do you spin it while hitting it through water typically... But yeah if the store is necessary it's easier to dump it and reload, but it's more fun to load smaller bowls, one hitter bowls, better flavor and consistent clouds for me.


Well-Known Member
I have a tool, its flat and diamond shaped (small flathead screwdriver probably work) and I like to go around the outside of the bowl - poke in and lift up in place, then tamp back down. minimal mess. its not quite a 'stir' but it makes new air pathways and will cook evenly

@Alan ’s needle stir tool works great, but I just accept some spillage when I pack fuller bowls. Spin and stir is part of the ritual.

MistVape used to have "stir collars" that sat over 14 or 18mm joints depending on the size you purchased. You slipped it on, stirred your material, tamped it down, then removed. No mess. Seems like maybe an opportunity to expand the CE accessory line to me:

Edit: Personally I've given up on stirring RBT devices. Part of the fun for me is trying to hone my technique so I don't need to.


Gentleman Of Leisure
when it's upside down I stir with no problem, but if it's not and the screen is getting dirty because of the ABV spillage... well.. I prefer to rotate the stem then
Yeah this j-hook wpa is joint-packed and I'm happy enough to stir it like a pipe between hits (i.e. with the wpa in the hook)

With all my cooling stems I expect the basket bowls to temp step evenly without more than a pinky poke and probably do check way too often to manage expectations for subsequent hits


Well-Known Member
On a mission to convert a co-worker to vaporising I decided to lend them one of my splinters. Probably not the best device for a complete beginner but they're really into vaping nicotine so seemed like a good match considering he uses a dna250 mod in TCR and builds his own coils and that.

However despite me making them a video and writing down clear instructions on how to use it they've still fucked it up lol. He texted me saying he doesn't like it because it tastes like burning plastic, turns out he's been loading hash and bud directly into the device and squashing the stem on top, using it in bypass mode and combusting it every time and smoking it. This is how he thought the device was meant to be used lol, as some overly complicated ignition system for smoking. Fucking combusters man :doh:

Anyway managed to get it back off him, felt like crying when I saw the damage he did to my babe. I took the whole thing apart, I used a jet lighter on the inside glass joint and on the 510 connector to loosen the glue then pried it open. I've cleaned the glass joint, screen and wooden sleeve as best as I can. Waiting on some high heat 5 minute epoxy to put the device back together but just wandering, whilst I have the splinter in pieces, if there's anything else anyone would recommend doing? What do you think about the state of the heater? The mesh has turned blue (anodisation?) but I assume this is a non-issue.

Happy new year!

Edit: I am considering soaking the heater in iso, is that a terrible idea?


  • IMG_20220104_105409.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 35
  • IMG_20220104_105428.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 36
  • IMG_20220103_121845.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 35


Chronic vapaholic
That's completely fucked up! :rolleyes:

But blue is not too high on the oxidation scale for SS, so I think it did glow but not too much. I wouldn't worry about the heater and there's not much you can do at that point. As said above I would be more concerned by the kind of glue you use for the fix.


Well-Known Member
Thank you for the input, the type of epoxy is something I hadn't been too concerned about as I thought I recalled a video of the owner of RBT demonstrating how to fix the splinter where he mentioned any type of 5 minute epoxy would suffice. This is what I was planning on using but perhaps I should use something different?

Edit: Not sure if the photo of the epoxy is loading, isn't showing on my phone.
It's JB Weld HighHeat epoxy, able to withstand continuous heat up to 232 and intermittent heat up to 260 but I guess that's referring to maintaining integrity and not offgassing. Seems like it's used a lot in cars which gives me less confidence.


Chronic vapaholic
The OG RBT line used some medical grade two parts glue indeed. I don't recall the exact reference but it's somewhere in the various RBT threads.. I would try at least to find some glue that doesn't impart any kind of smell.


Well-Known Member
I think I'm going to use it, just in absolutely miniscule amounts and as far from the air path as possible, lots of the old epoxy still remains so the pieces almost friction fit together as it is, I'm thinking some well placed epoxy on the outer edges of the remaining epoxy should be alright. In this video around the 1 minute 10 mark says any brand will do.

Top Bottom