XpeeN
Well-Known Member
0.198Ω when cold, 20ga SS wire, 200 TCR 203C (I was aiming to reach 0.27 to 0.28 when the coil is hot, it glows just a bit at ~0.275).
Credit to Alan from toasty top for the cork idea.
Here's my Cork510 ;)
- Thread starter XpeeN
- Start date
0.198Ω when cold, 20ga SS wire, 200 TCR 203C (I was aiming to reach 0.27 to 0.28 when the coil is hot, it glows just a bit at ~0.275).
Credit to Alan from toasty top for the cork idea.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
looks really cute! this cork can be useful..i think the cork is made from a material like wood or so? so it has a lot of tiny air pockets hence its K value of conduction is low.. really low.. it's good for this purpose!
but isn't the coil is too close to its base? no errors of short etc?
XpeeN
Well-Known Member
No errors. I made sure the coil won't touch itself or the base itself. And yeah, Alan brought a really good idea right here.
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Cork is tree bark. there various plugs. From a whole all natural piece and glued together dust particles like the one on the picture. Avoid using those if you ask me..
""""https://www.corklink.com/index.php/agglomeratdor-natural-corks/""
– agglomerated corks contain synthetic binding agents, which although food-safe are not ideal to be in contact with the delicate flavours that many drinks have
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
damn! then how the regular normal person can make himself a 510 wooden sleeve without buying expensive equipment?Cork is tree bark. there various plugs. From a whole all natural piece and glued together dust particles like the one on the picture. Avoid using those if you ask me..
""""https://www.corklink.com/index.php/agglomeratdor-natural-corks/""
– agglomerated corks contain synthetic binding agents, which although food-safe are not ideal to be in contact with the delicate flavours that many drinks have
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
If you want to give credits where it's due, there were several implementations in the Project thread back then. I even did one myself.
The issue is finding cork that is not an agglomerate with binders. As even Champagne ones now only have a rather thin disc in contact with the liquid and the rest is agglo. Even if they claim it's food safe glue. But @Abysmal Vapor beat me to it!
The issue is finding cork that is not an agglomerate with binders. As even Champagne ones now only have a rather thin disc in contact with the liquid and the rest is agglo. Even if they claim it's food safe glue. But @Abysmal Vapor beat me to it!
XpeeN
Well-Known Member
Cork is tree bark. there various plugs. From a whole all natural piece and glued together dust particles like the one on the picture. Avoid using those if you ask me..
""""https://www.corklink.com/index.php/agglomeratdor-natural-corks/""
– agglomerated corks contain synthetic binding agents, which although food-safe are not ideal to be in contact with the delicate flavours that many drinks have
Thanks guys, noted. I'll do my research and probably will leave that aside. I think my next move will be with something like this
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Just buy the all natural ones,they are most expensive though. Here one of those sizes you have costs about 8 euro.. + delivery.
XpeeN
Well-Known Member
I have trouble so far finding those at the right measurements. I need ~35*27 (or more) *35 when it's upper dia*lower dia*length. I'll post an update here if I find something relevant.
The Project did inspire me to try a tapered wood sleeve rather than a tapered glass sleeve to enclose the coil. I use ss foil as a heat reflector to protect the wood. The ss foil should work well with cork too. Be sure the coil doesn’t touch the foil. The farther the coil is from the base, the less heat is conducted/radiated down to it. More glow means more radiant heat. Recommend using only natural cork (no agglomerate) unless using it as a cover over a glass sleeve. I don’t recommend synthetic cork for any use.
XpeeN
Well-Known Member
That's what I've found so far, it looks natural to me but idk. do you guys think? I'll ask the seller anyway. Also, I found this wood cylinder that might work too.
I actually switched to a regular velocity deck,
the coil is still pretty close to the posts but I don't find the heat reflected to the base problematic yet (didn't do many back to back sessions though). About the ss foil, it's a disc shape ss foil ,at the center above the coil, between two screens, right? Won't it make the sides vaporize more than the center? IDK about how even the ABV is in my case though, because up until now I used it with sage only and it acts a bit different (the leaves sticks to each other), but it looked kinda even overall.
Thanks for all the advices guys
I cut a rectangle of ss foil of the correct size so it creates a tubular liner for the wood. The idea of the disc in the center is to direct more of the heat to the perimeter of the roasting bowl.
XpeeN
Well-Known Member
Alright so yeah, I didn't follow through back then. Emm it's kinda hard for me to imagine tbh, but it sounds interesting. I'd like to hear some more info, If you don't mind of course.