badbee
Well-Known Member
A standard 12 V ZVS board will almost certainly fail at 20 V. They can survive on voltages lower than 12 but there may be a point where too low of a voltage will kill it as well.
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DIY Induction Heater Builds and References
- Thread starter TommyDee
- Start date
TankeyPankey
Well-Known Member
Would it be a dumb idea to not have an on/off switch? I'm thinking just plugging it in and I would be simple enough. With my current setup, there's very little chance for me to ever leave it plugged in so I'm not worried about safety in that aspect.
TankeyPankey
Well-Known Member
Yeah that was kind of my thought. I could save money/wiring hassle on just plugging and unplugging the IH, which I'd be doing anyways for how I plan to use it.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
This cuts the trace that powers the gate circuit and put a fire-switch over the cut. 2 wires remaining.
The positive power input wire goes to the middle connection between the two chokes.
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Gomaruana
Well-Known Member
Awesome stuff !
I'm trying to build a higher powered version that is very reliable for desktop use with the anvil vape.
Do you have any ideas on how I could achieve such a build?
Currently I'm running the standard zvs board with a 12v 10a power supply and I use a high power mosfet 5-36v 15a + arduino + temp sensor to do pid temp control.
I've been running that setup for over a year now, but I think the performance has degraded over time, do you think that is possible? Or is it violent failure or no failure with these zvs boards? I've left the power to the zvs board on for too long by accident / my hot-anvil-detection algorithm misfiring. I also think I've seen smoke come out of the zvs board on occasion, but I might have imagined that
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Hey @Gomaruana , the capacitor(s) could degrade over time. The standard ZVS circuit layout is extremely robust. It takes a lot to kill it.
The only smoke I've ever seen come from the components is from particles of flower or condensed oils around the coil.
There are two types of degradation, however; 1) Over-use of a specific components and 2) Different vapcaps. Some vapcaps you simply cannot push a lot of power into where other caps will rail the supply current. Measure the voltage at the ZVS board and monitor this for changes.
If you are running batteries, check that cells aren't changing their internal resistance. I have some end-of-life cells that have a huge voltage drop when firing.
The only smoke I've ever seen come from the components is from particles of flower or condensed oils around the coil.
There are two types of degradation, however; 1) Over-use of a specific components and 2) Different vapcaps. Some vapcaps you simply cannot push a lot of power into where other caps will rail the supply current. Measure the voltage at the ZVS board and monitor this for changes.
If you are running batteries, check that cells aren't changing their internal resistance. I have some end-of-life cells that have a huge voltage drop when firing.
Gomaruana
Well-Known Member
I'm wondering if I can remove some wraps and cut off some of the standard coil wire length to get more power out of it?
Edit;
I found out where the smoke came from, it was from the power screw terminals on the zvs board that where a bit loose from the daily use probably.
The wire insulation was a bit blackened and the wire itself doesn't look very fresh any more.
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TommyDee
Vaporitor
Less coil wire length will increase the power draw. Also, be sure to solder the coil to the board. Those blue terminals are the cause of most ZVS module failures. Once soldered, these circuits are very tough.
By making the heater hotter for weak caps can cause an issue if you ever put in a very hot cap. Just a warning.
By making the heater hotter for weak caps can cause an issue if you ever put in a very hot cap. Just a warning.
Gomaruana
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info! I have soldered the coil and will be shortening it and soldering again as an experiment for my anvil.
Do you know by any chance what the difference is between led power supplies and switching power supplies? I'm wondering if I can use this 24v 400w one in combination with a 24v ZVS to get insane heating performance. (For this project I'm heating up a metal part with at least 4 times the amount of metal compared to an anvil)
Gomaruana
Well-Known Member
I'll be trying out this combination this evening.
12v-30v ZVS that I'll be powering with 24v 400w led psu, I'll need way bigger mosfets to switch the ZVS on/off with my arduino.
Gomaruana
Well-Known Member
I've melted the terminals to the induction coil and the power supply doesn't seem to be able to keep up with the heater after I soldered the coil on.
I think the coil was also mismatched with the ZVS board. I used a modified coil from the smaller 12v zvs boards.
Back to the drawing table.
Help me with my DIY IH
I built an induction heater powered by 2 18650 batteries. I used wiring diagram from vapoven.
Somehow the power is very weak, the Dynavap heats up very slow. Too slow to use it.
Can anybody tell me what could be the reason?
Btw I’m a total noob in electronics…
Here is a picture of my build:
www.reddit.com
Legend for the picture:
1 batteries
2 induction heater
3 momentary button
4 MOSFET (not visible)
I built an induction heater powered by 2 18650 batteries. I used wiring diagram from vapoven.
Somehow the power is very weak, the Dynavap heats up very slow. Too slow to use it.
Can anybody tell me what could be the reason?
Btw I’m a total noob in electronics…
Here is a picture of my build:
Reddit - Dive into anything
www.reddit.com
Legend for the picture:
1 batteries
2 induction heater
3 momentary button
4 MOSFET (not visible)
TommyDee
Vaporitor
I have not done it but this method should explain my concept for 2-cell IH's:
The coil wire length, not the number of turns, is what what determines the power draw when a vapcap is inserted. Original wire length of the coil is ~33" for a 3S solution. This normally operates at around 10.5V (to the module) at maybe 6 amps to come up with about 63 watts of power to the cap. To reduce the voltage down to 6-8.4V, you need to remove some coil wire length - 33" for 3S does calculate to 22" of coil wire length for 2S.
Do know that to reach that 60 watts, you will be putting more current through the circuit, maybe even 10A at 6V LBV or 7.2V @ 8.33A at nominal.
The coil wire length, not the number of turns, is what what determines the power draw when a vapcap is inserted. Original wire length of the coil is ~33" for a 3S solution. This normally operates at around 10.5V (to the module) at maybe 6 amps to come up with about 63 watts of power to the cap. To reduce the voltage down to 6-8.4V, you need to remove some coil wire length - 33" for 3S does calculate to 22" of coil wire length for 2S.
Do know that to reach that 60 watts, you will be putting more current through the circuit, maybe even 10A at 6V LBV or 7.2V @ 8.33A at nominal.
Hi, Long time lurker just wanted to show off the abomination I made called the Jankheater. It's held together by electrical tape.
It's a half mod, 3s with the standard bms and it can be charged with USB C. Tested it out this weekend and it works fine if I heat it a bit past the click.
It's a half mod, 3s with the standard bms and it can be charged with USB C. Tested it out this weekend and it works fine if I heat it a bit past the click.
expremiental
New Member
Hi all!
iam working on custom IH/stash/case/holder for Dyna and stumbled upon electronics. Planned to use ZVS but the opened my YLL 2.0 and found out its build different, like night and day electronic wise.
So now iam looking for a person to chat about IH modules schematics and stuff. iam no electric engineer : (
iam working on custom IH/stash/case/holder for Dyna and stumbled upon electronics. Planned to use ZVS but the opened my YLL 2.0 and found out its build different, like night and day electronic wise.
So now iam looking for a person to chat about IH modules schematics and stuff. iam no electric engineer : (
badbee
Well-Known Member
The first rule of engineering is: if it works, it works.
Hi folks,
Hi TommyDee,
Can you explain me what i can do with the heater work coil and how it changes the performance?
So adding length reduces my power draw while taking same time to click?
So reducing length increases my power draw while taking same time to click?
more turns = faster heating and this does what to the circuit?
Lesser turn?
What do the double or triple coil windings? can I count them as normal or does the further distance to the dyna change anything?
the turns better centered on the heating spot allows to better adjust the aggression of the heater?
what can I change by adding or removing coil diameter?
what does a change of the wire diameter?
what is not "good" to modify or change? Something to keep in mind?
What is your most favourable workcoil and why?
then to your halfpint:
what does the reducing of the capacitor and the smaller coil core do to the circuit?
what happens if I reduce the capacitor and keep the coils like before... How does this change the circuit and the performance?
what other capacitor options are there?(looking into further miniaturization...)
And finally what is the best way to get a own insertion sensing?
what sensors can I use near the work coil with out damaging them?
oha that where quite a lot of questions
thank you very much for all your efforts amazing thread!
greetings
Gr1nse
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Click would take a little longer
The click would come a little sooner
Number of turns seem to have less effect
The multiple layers is simply to use the complete wire length
The ingress depth moves the clicker further from the sweet spot. This delays the click allowing more heat to build up
Proximity to the cap. Very forgiving parameter
Increases the voltage and risks blowing FETs
Lots of freedom here. You are limited to 120 watts
20mm long by 16mm ID has the best heating profile along the cap.
The capacitor is what provides the 'punch'. 2 capacitors is a little too much for our purposes heating a traditional vapcap
The bake is slowed a bit. This allows for more custom heating profiles by giving it 'another second' without combusting.
There are a lot of foil-wound capacitors. If they are the wrong ones, they heat up. See what Dynatec and Ispire uses.
I would think something like induction sensing at red lights would be the simplest method. That is what the dental heaters use.
Best bet is to use the coil itself. That is what Ispire does.
Thanks @Gr1nse . Basically you have two adjustments with the cap itself... ingress depth determines the delay of the click. Deeper ingress means hotter bake. And the second is wattage. Everything about the IH is the rate at which you pour power into the cap, which in turn heats the tip. My sweet spot for heating my '18-M is 60-70 watts. At 80 watts or more, I get a lot of reclaim and low production of vapor. I rate my tune by how crimson red my reclaim is. If the reclaim is runny blonde, the heater is too hot.
One trick to consider is that each turn of the coil is about 1V. Meaning that a 10 turn coil will work great with 10V (roughly). Removing (and shortening) one turn will make the heater act the same as 10 turns/10V using 9 turns and 9 volts. That is my analogy - 33" of 12 gauge magnet wire is for 12V and 22" of 12 gauge magnet wire is good for 8V... Or 33" for 3S and 22" for 2S.