Generally considered good advice for this class of 'batteries'. Important to fully charge (many sources recommend 'overcharging' several hours after charging stops) before the first serious discharge (heating), this determines the maximum capacity ever, it will only go down from there throughout it's useful lifespan.
While I still continue giving this same recommendation, I stumbled on a test (I think it was from mooch) that seemed to indicate that there was no *apparent* difference when skipping that first conditioning step.
His tests showed no difference in capacity for the subsequent cycles. But, and that's the part I cling to, he didn't exclude that there could be microscopic-level differences inside the cell that could lead to differences in long-term reliability (I'm thinking for instance, increasing the chance of dendrites formation later on down the battery life or other subtle changes we don't fully understand yet)
Thanks for these details. But this starts me wondering why the manufacturers leave these noteworthy circumstances to the user? As a manufacturer it should be an easy task to stop charging a cell at 90% and shut off a device at 10%. This should make the battery handling a lot easier for the users and improve device reliability, espacially for the devices with built in batteries.
Some do already. Nearly all my chargers have different cutoff points. Some charge very close to the nominal 4.2V while some leave the cell resting closer to 4.1V. I even have a couple faulty ones which go over 4.2, close to 4.3, which is clearly bad and border-line dangerous.
Going the other way down, and just looking at my mod boxes, my Joyetech units cut close to 3.1V, squeezing possibly the last drop of juice out of the cell, while my SmoAnt box cuts at 3.4V (resting voltage that is)
As
@OF said it can easily be done (often just a resistance to change on the PCB for the charging case) it just depends what the manufacturer wants. For most, it's a selling point to claim that your device has a longer battery life than your competitors, even if it means being harder on the cell under the hood.
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Back to the ArGo, I'm a bit underwhelmed by what I saw on the teardown pictures... Direct contact with a (most probably) PEEK sleeve without insulation, various silicone parts, and the worst: am I seeing right? Is that a dab of silicone bonding glue (yellowish-whitish blob) on that picture, holding the temp sensor wires in place?
That's exactly the same crap they put in the awful FowerMate 8 prototype I tested back then, then in the Elo test unit, then in the VapeDynamics Duo... All 3 units were cancelled pretty fast after entering production, as apparently I was not the only one to complain about the awful smell this damn glue has when it gets hot.
I guess none of you guys smelled or tasted anything off? It's fun how the same teardown of any Chinese vape would have had every-body screaming how unsafe it surely is, but when it's Arizer (or say S&B using the same plastics etc) you all seem to give them more slack.
I"m really not impressed, and talking about Chinese vapes, I've seen recent teardowns showing that they often did better jobs at really insulating everything from the air+vapor paths. But I'm nitpicking, as always...