anyone can suggest me a good 510 deck to buil a mod based vaporizer ? Dreamwood, Stempod...etc etc clone.,

[GI]

Hi,
I made teo Dreamwood tupe diy clone and they eork good but not well and not so easy to use, i nevere tried the original, only sn impcognito that i found too little and to trouble to use, i prefer a wattage mode or bypass and use click and stop method to achieve what i want, no firmware etc etc...so my diy clone use crap deck, sonething like tobb clone, dual coils 3 pin and bolt, air from the side...i understand that Dreamwood have them custom, Stempod it's a tsunami, mostvape made everything by himself....what can i chose to improve ? It's bottom airflow essential ? Single or dual coils ? Mesh or wire ? 16 22 24 mm ?

 

[KeroZen]

What do you mean by too little for the Impcognito? And how is that a bad thing?

It's clearly meant to be used in TC mode, I would never use mine in power mode that would be way too finicky.

 

[GI]

What do you mean by too little for the Impcognito? And how is that a bad thing?

It's clearly meant to be used in TC mode, I would never use mine in power mode that would be way too finicky.

I don't know and don't have experience, but with my Dreamwood clone i don't combust and i feel better, with impcognito and tc articfix etc etc it's more difficult for me and this thing it's annoying, for me, i prefer click and feel it's time to stop or go on....more analogic.

 

[KeroZen]

Then you might want to find a rather large RDA base, with ample space to build a big coil using large gauge SS wire (18 or 20ga). If you get enough mass, it will add inertia to the system, making it much easier to use in power mode. But please never use bypass mode with custom designs, you really need the electronic protections in case your coil shorts for some reason. Li-Ion cells are dangerous and should be used with great care, they are sold in this form by the manufacturers only with the requirement to be used with a BMS as part of a pack.

22 or 23mm RDA's tend to be space limited for such custom builds. If your mod supports larger diameters, it might be easier to go that way. Try to find one with glass upper part rather than stainless steel if possible. SS will rob too much power and will be borderline dangerous to use as the atty body will get burning hot to the touch. Glass will also get pretty hot but it has less thermal conductivity and that's what we want here. The best of course would be a wooden body, but for that you would need a lathe and wood turning skills.

SS works of course, I have many designs laying around. But you'll find that your battery life will be quite poor and it takes longer to get to working temperature. Plus yeah as I said above, you'll burn yourself a lot in the process lol!

 

[GI]

I understand thanks, so maybe i try with this:

Kennedy 24 - Google Search

Kennedy 24 it as air from the bottom.
I intend bypass mode on a regulated box but i don't use in this way, more like how Dreamwood glow used.
I able to work with wood, it's my job and have a little lathe, not experienced on the lathe but enough.
I think to use a khantal flat wire or clapton, so it's better SS ?

 

[KeroZen]

Some find Khantal gives a noticeable taste. I can't comment as I never used it since I much prefer TC mode, and like Nichrome it's pretty hard to TC this alloy.

I have a couple Kennedy clones from fasttech but I'm not at home and I don't remember all the details. But yes could be a good base but as I said the metal body will sink a lot of heat and rob power from your mod.

I had good results with clones of the Fishbone RDA that have a glass top and also base air-flow.

By the way, don't hesitate to buy the clones from China. Since we don't even need the tanks to be leak-proof as there will be no liquid inside. It's just machined steel parts and they have good tools for that.

 

[iDRINKBLEACH]

Some find Khantal gives a noticeable taste. I can't comment as I never used it since I much prefer TC mode, and like Nichrome it's pretty hard to TC this alloy.

I have a couple Kennedy clones from fasttech but I'm not at home and I don't remember all the details. But yes could be a good base but as I said the metal body will sink a lot of heat and rob power from your mod.

I had good results with clones of the Fishbone RDA that have a glass top and also base air-flow.

By the way, don't hesitate to buy the clones from China. Since we don't even need the tanks to be leak-proof as there will be no liquid inside. It's just machined steel parts and they have good tools for that.

How long did I take for your fasttech to make it over seas? I have a couple decks to try n fit in a glass body, 20 gauge SS wire on its way to be paired with glass balls n rod. Oh yeah stuff for 510 extension through fasttech too. I got usps tracking but idk how far until it reaches USA.

 

[KeroZen]

It's shit slow usually. Noticeably slower than Aliexpress, BangGood or DX, at least to Europe. And with COVID, logistics can be further delayed. But it will arrive... eventually...

 

[Chainfish]

Funnily enough have debated this myself several times in recent years. I initially looked at the deathwish deathtrap rda, mass space for a single coil build, issue being they not cheap. Bought a cheaper, smaller, similar working rda, the blitz ghoul. My idea was to keep the top cap and fit an arizer basket into mouthpiece hole, then make stem out of wood that would come down over topcap. Like most of my projects, put on hold. Will see if can find any pics on pc but think it's older than current laptop.

 

[rush]

The Tsunami 24 is itself pretty much a clone of the Kennedy. Bottom airflow decks make sense, different styles mostly function to air an e-cig coil. You should see what clones are cheap on fasttech, I'm sure others here have made deeper research but to my understanding the key is coil surface area. I've always been curious to try mesh for that reason - other decks have wide airflow posts inside, unlike the usual double-tubes you see, these could also have potential (e.g. this one).

 

[iDRINKBLEACH]

It's shit slow usually. Noticeably slower than Aliexpress, BangGood or DX, at least to Europe. And with COVID, logistics can be further delayed. But it will arrive... eventually...

Aw dang I paid for expedited shipping hoping it would help. I might need to buy wire and a deck just to start building a heater. I would have made the order more worth while if I had known it’s slower than ali haha

 

[GI]

I think that the Kennedy it's more short and it's possible to use one coil in the middle.

 

[GI]

These are my experiment, i don't have a glow to compare, they works but not perfect, i like to copy Dreamwood Glow because it's easy for me....maybe if i can have exact sizes and a rda deck similar i can get good result, otherwise it's fun to try and check, but need a lot of time and people. :-)

 

[GI]

The Tsunami 24 is itself pretty much a clone of the Kennedy. Bottom airflow decks make sense, different styles mostly function to air an e-cig coil. You should see what clones are cheap on fasttech, I'm sure others here have made deeper research but to my understanding the key is coil surface area. I've always been curious to try mesh for that reason - other decks have wide airflow posts inside, unlike the usual double-tubes you see, these could also have potential (e.g. this one).

I think that is mass that do the difference indeed, a part move the hot air to the herb the more difficult part.

 

[rush]

I think that is mass that do the difference indeed, a part move the hot air to the herb the more difficult part.

Two different things, surface and mass The one's you made look really nice, what needs fixing/adjusting? I can measure a DW if you tell me what you need.

 

[GI]

I need all the internal size and also the deck size height and diameters, of the mouthpiece too, i don't know exactly what need to fix, i don't have and never use a DW, a better oring slot, all the screen more stable, the air from the bottom, coils more reactive....one is work more good in cloud and the other in flawor....

 

[PPN]

One detail which make the Glow to work so well is the 2 bottom air inlets are directly under the 2 hottest parts of the coil (the 2 spots with spires), so all air entering is effectively heated, smart build imho!

 

[GI]

One detail which make the Glow to work so well is the 2 bottom air inlets are directly under the 2 hottest parts of the coil (the 2 spots with spires), so all air entering is effectively heated, smart build imho!

Yes, i would try with a Kennedy or Tsunami or similar and build a coil similar.